Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Modeler12

  1. I realize that not too many modelers have a milling machine, but for those lucky enough to have one, I would venture to say that it is a very versatile and useful tool for scratch builders as well as those who want a bit more accuracy in cutting material. I am constantly learning to use mine with new ideas for fixtures and techniques. Perhaps we can share some ideas on this thread. A couple years ago there was a thread dealing with this subject and I like to revamp that: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4320-milling-work-and-miniature-jig-making/page-2?hl=+milling%20+machine. Let me show you a few things I have done to and with my machine. When I first got it, I wanted to learn the basics and made this aluminum slitting fixture. It can be used to make slots or even cut planks. Now I don’t use it too much anymore, because it takes a while to set up and takes away space on the table. I have a four inch vise that is very accurate. Using the parallels underneath this piece of pear, I was able to machine this log of gun carriages. After the milling I cut slabs that were only 0.050 inch thick. When I decided to make my own gratings, I had to make a decision about square or round holes. After some experimenting I gave up making square holes. Now I find it hard to tell if the grating has square or round holes (when viewed a few inches or more away). My point here is that I placed the grating material on a piece of plywood that was clamped to the table and used the mill’s x-y table movements to accurately drill the holes. Since then I don’t use the metal clamps that you see in the picture above. I made a number of wooden clamps and blocks that do a better and safer job. Here is a set up using those clamps. It was part of my cross section work. More on the next post.
  2. Although Jeff is no longer in the business of supplying wood for us, I hope he is still here and watching us. Thanks Jeff (again) for those great boards and pieces. You did well by teaching a younger fellow (not Chuck, of course) and the'kid' is doing a nice job as well as you did. Your instructions are well taken and saved. I use them without fail (well except about the dust problem, but that is my concern) If anyone knows who the 'kid' is . . . .
  3. Ship flags: cloth or paper/vinyl

    Have a look at this thread. The flags are 'real' and can be folded or crinkled to simulate the wind effects.
  4. Mr Mackie, on his web site, shows numerous pictures of the model as well as a few facts about the sailing days. Too bad he does not give the artist who built this beauty any credit. If I have to, I'll go to the museum to find out who it was. I am sure this person must have built lots of other models.
  5. There is a great model of the five masted Preussen in the San Francisco Maritime Museum and I would like to know who built that. I know there is a sign with the model but I forgot to write the name of this marvelous builder. When I contacted the museum it was too late (Friday evening).
  6. Masting a ship

    When stepping the masts you don't want to permanently glue them in place. Have the blocks on the keel in place to hold the bottom of the mast(s), then cut the openings in the deck and fit the mast(s) to be sure they are at the right angle(s) and then remove the mast(s) for a later installation. There will be lots of other things to do (such as adding deck furniture, rails, deck planking, etc.) and you don't want the mast(s) to interfere with those. The same applies to the bowsprit. To align the mast(s) you can use a number of methods described in this forum. Search.
  7. Looks like great carving tools. I also would like the email address and was wondering how payments and shipping are handled. In particular, I like to see more details of the shape of each tool and if I could order some individually rather than a whole set. For 23 of those at $360 total I assume a price of $18 each would not be unreasonable.
  8. Your first comments about 'Jim's saw' cutting up to 3/8 inch thickness is a bit limited. The blades that come with the saw include a four inch diameter 'course', carbide tipped blade that cuts boards to 3/4 inch thickness very nicely. I have used that to cut slabs of hardwood, such as maple, blood-wood and poplar, and then used the 3 inch 'fine' blade to cut planking. Both cuts were very close to what I wanted and with some adjustments of the fence 'dead-on'. I have a larger saw but for this kind of work I don't use it. The Byrnes saw does it all. PS. It was an administrative error, I am sure, but I just got another bill from Thurston for blades I bought last year and paid for by card (the normal way with them). Keep your records (receipts)
  9. Proportional Dividers

    It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'. If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons. In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it. When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.). The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
  10. Proportional Dividers

    I might add a couple comments about the way I measured the planking problem I showed above. The length of the two openings (4.85 and 4.00 inches) was measured by using a piece of stiff paper. You can see that in the photograph. These dimensions were used in the calculation. The width of the planks was measure with a dial set of calipers (with a dial indicator) that is accurate to within 0.001 inch. There is no way that you can be that accurate with the proportional dividers. To pace off sets of repetitive dimensions on a chart it is cheaper and easier to use a simple pair of dividers:
  11. Proportional Dividers

    Ok, let me explain. Let me do this with an example, the hull planking of my cross section. If the planks need to be tapered because the space or opening as shown in the picture below changes along the hull lines, it is necessary to use the 'proportional method'. In this case, you measure the two dimensions of the opening and they are 4.85 and 4.00 inch respectively. Let's say the planks you have are 0.121 inch wide. What should the plank width measure at the other end? Obviously smaller if you put the wide end to the left in the picture. The proportional ratio is 4.00 divided by 4.82. Now multiply that ratio by the 0.121 and you get 0.100 inches, the width of the narrow end. Now you could have done this with the mechanical divider, but the accuracy becomes questionable because of the big difference in the size of the opening and plank width.
  12. Proportional Dividers

    I have two types of proportional dividers. The one shown below is a lot more accurate than my mechanical type and faster too.
  13. The section about Forum Rules etc is locked but perhaps I can ask the question here. Is the mention about 'Warning Points' restricted to the author or is it visible to others? Perhaps I missed that, but where is this mentioned in the rules and how does one get those 'invaluable points'? Is there a way to redeem those points?
  14. Hmmm. How about the way the inmates at one of the jails in Maine make sails? Wood!!! Sails in Jails!!!! Several years ago I bought a schooner there that had wooden sails. They still make them and here are some more and the web site, in case you are interested. http://www.maine.gov/corrections/industries/boats/large/index.html
  15. I would like to second this suggestion. Making sails can be very challenging and interesting. It requires some new skills (like carving wood was new to me) and perhaps the use of a sewing machine (my wife's and no harm done). But it also involves selecting material and all the details of how to finish the edges, etc. So how do we get started?
  16. In my case, doing this in my 'office' (which is inside, instead of the 'work shop', my garage) gives me a good excuse to the admiral who continues to ask 'when are you going to finish your cross section?' Now that fall is here and winter around the corner, my office is a great place to cut some small chips and not too much dust. I just placed the order for the boxwood pieces and will start with one of the crowns.
  17. You actually have cookies in Port Alberni? I thought all you ate was fish. And fresh fish, I might add.
  18. Sorry, my mistake. I read Twister as Twitter. I do that a lot lately.
  19. Along that same line, I noticed that search engines such as Google, Yahoo and others are always looking at this web site. If you go to the very bottom here you can see who is on-line. Could it be that Facebook does the same thing? Add: You have to go to the main page of this forum to see the list at the bottom, but Twitter is on it now.
  20. Chuck, if you can please follow up about the carving thing. I for one would like to join and learn. I think there are enough replies above to get something started, but it would really be good to have one or more person(s) who can 'teach' and/or recommend some literature and tools. I am sure there are individuals here and now who can.
  21. Howdy

    Just to show how 'International' this site is, note the responses from Mike in Norway and Robin in the Netherlands (aka Holland ). Looking forward towards your decisions and progress, Aaron.
  22. Howdy

    Welcome Aaron. First of all you should realize that there is no 'proper scale' in modeling. Most of our ship models are made to a scale that can vary quite a bit. It is your choice, of course; however, there are a few that are a bit more standardized because there are lots of kits made to a specific scale. I suggest you check some of the model kits available. It is a bit like model railroading. HO is prominent. But there is also O, N and even Z scale. Each has its own merits, each it's own size and measurements. Then there is the issue of inches versus millimeters. This forum is international and both measures are used throughout these discussions. Even though I am in the US, I prefer the metric system, but then you run into problems with plans, tools and materials that are based on the old feet-and-inches system. If you live in the US or Canada, I would suggest you stick with our British inheritance.
  23. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    It actually happened yesterday. I took Sharon, my admiral, to pick up some shoes she had dropped off at a repair shop here in town. I was wearing some old jeans and work shirt, hadn’t shave that morning, but no big deal. Sharon paid for the shoes; then I asked the shoe repair guy if the shoes I was wearing could be re-soled. Sure, was the reply. They are real old Mephistos that fit me like a glove and feel like slippers, so I wanted to get this done. I took off my shoes and gave them to the guy to be fixed. Now Sharon had to go get the car while I waited for her at the corner of the parking lot. Mind you, I was wearing old clothes and no shoes. Some nice fellow came by, looked at me and offered me some money ‘to buy some new shoes’. I laughed and told him that my shoes were in the shop right behind me. He then offered to give me a ride home. Again I laughed and told him my wife was coming to pick me up. He walked away shaking his head. . . . . .
  24. Byrnes Table Saw

    Bill, I might add that the hold down fixture can easily be made using the bracket that came with the saw. It is easy enough to remove the clear plastic saw guard and then put in a bearing in its place. The bearing I used came from one of my router bits. I use this hold-down fixture only for thin boards. It is a bit flimsy for sipping thick stock.