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tlevine

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About tlevine

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    Illinois

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  1. tlevine

    building the masterpiece CD or book

    This is actually a compilation of the articles from Ships in Scale along with an assortment of photographs of the model and a few other things. It has not been available for several years. If you have early SIS magazines or the archives you will find all the substantive information, minus the color photographs. If you don't have them, the NRG will have the archives available for sale soon. The Guild purchased all the intellectual property of SIS upon its demise. They are not up on the store yet so drop the office an email. info@thenauticalresearchguild.org
  2. Thanks, gentlemen. I am now working on the stern quarter carving. Hopefully that won't take more than a week.
  3. I have spent the last few weeks constructing the lantern. I used the brass photoetch from Admiralty Models for the carcass. Rather than post a step-by-step construction, take a look on their website. http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Tips.html The document is at the bottom of the page. The exterior was painted to match the wood and the interior was painted red. The candle is a roll of paper and the glazing is mica. The crank is brass which was cut and filed to shape. All metal was blackened.
  4. tlevine

    Syren Rope Rocket

    The larger the number, the larger the diameter on DMC thread. When I started making my own line I purchased all of the sizes 20-100 and made test line do determine the diameter of the completed line. (All you need is a few feet.) The diameter will be different for right-hand vs left-hand line so if you plan on having the correct lay for the different lines you will need to lay up both left and right-hand test line. Remember, the line diameter will vary a little based on your individual technique.
  5. One of the other reasons beginning modelers become discouraged is the length of time required to finish even a simple model. Most of us have built a number of plastic kits, either as a kid or an adult. Unfortunately, that leads to an expectation of accomplishment in a short period of time. To us, a quick model means completion in less than a year!
  6. Pure eye candy. I feel better now that I have had my Remco fix.
  7. tlevine

    What have you received today?

    Brian, you are going to love that little saw. I hope you bought extra blades. They are so thin that they break eventually.
  8. tlevine

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Gentlemen, this discussion about guns has nothing to do with the forum topic "What Have You Done Today". If you wish to continue this I would recommend starting your own topic.
  9. Just a quick update. The carlings have been cut to accept the ledges. I have started making the inner belt of ledges. The outer belt will not be make until the knees have been installed.
  10. Martin, I have a few ideas for the next build. Let's finally get through this one first! Since I will not be moving the model very much anymore, I decided it was time to make the swivel guns. There are a total of 16, eight per side. Five are on the quarterdeck and three are on the forecastle. I used barrels from Syren to make my life a little easier. There is an aiming handle mounted onto the cascabel. It is L-shaped, extending below the swivel gun. In order to solder this to the gun I wrapped a loop of brass wire into the neck and filed a flat surface into it on the bottom. This gave me good surface area for soldering. The ball at the end of the handle is brass tubing slipped over the wire. That will be filed down after soldering. There are two types of swivel gun mounts: a simple yoke and the one used on the contemporary model of Atalanta. The yoke bends forward. According to David in TFFM, this gave additional clearance to decrease risk of damage to the shrouds. The first step was to make a paper template of the yoke. I then cut out a brass template (the smiley face in the top of the picture. This was made undersized to allow me to trace around it with a file to get the correct size and shape. Shaping was done with carborundum wheels, a cut-off wheel and files. Holes were then drilled for the trunion and mount. The mount was shaped on the lathe. The mount and yoke were then soldered together. The pin was placed through the hole for the trunion and soldered onto the yoke. Next came blackening and finally mounting.
  11. Thank you everyone for the likes. Christian, I will not be rigging her. I did a restoration of a four masted clipper ship last winter and that was enough tying ratlines to kill any desire to mast her.
  12. There are a lot of small projects to complete at this point. The first project was to start the cleaning process. After five years, the hull inevitably gets a little grimy, especially since it travels with me weekly on the back seat of my car. I started with compressed air to remove most of the sawdust. This was followed by moistened Q-tips and bits of paper towel held in a needle driver. This process took about three hours and will be repeated a few more times in the upcoming months. One of my punch list items was to insert the nails into the ribbands. I had pre-drilled the holes at the time the ribbands were installed but deferred adding the nails so the blackening would not wear off. I have put the ring on the anchor and applied the puddening. There is a first layer of rope with four seizings on top of that. The elm tree pumps were installed earlier but I did not make the handles as I knew they would be damaged. Needless to lay, this picture was taken before cleaning. A bracket was shaped to the side of the pump tube and a slot was cut for the handle. The strap is from black paper. I shipped the rudder at this point and drilled out the aft plexiglass support to accommodate it. I discovered that the top of the rudderhead was taller than the rudderhead cover and so this had to be remade. I prefer the looks of this one as well. I also installed the binnacle cabinet and secured it to the deck with two ropes. There is netting in the waist which is secured to the stanchions for the hand rail. This was made with tulle. The ropes are threaded through the netting and the entire assembly is spray painted. It was then trimmed and tied to the stanchions. As you can see, the cannon barrels are not even. Several of them have been jarred loose and need to be reglued.
  13. I told you this was going to be slow going! The upper deck beams have been fabricated. They will not be permanently installed until the lower deck has been completed. The lower deck beams have been notched to accept the carlings. The notched were made with a razor saw and 3 mm chisels. Four of the carlings have been temporarily placed between the beams. Hope to have another update soon.
  14. Everything is looking good so far. Every so often take a strip of card (think magazine inserts or that paper that junk mail is printed on) and lay is across the bulkheads. It is flexible but has some strength, unlike regular paper. That will show will where more material has to be removed. When it lays flat from the midpoint to the stem and to the stern, you are done fairing.

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