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Hubac's Historian

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About Hubac's Historian

  • Birthday 08/11/1973

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  • Yahoo
    Benchmarc_woodworking@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New York City
  • Interests
    17th Century Naval Architecture, furniture design and construction with an emphasis on the Art Nouveau period, 20th Century architecture, wood carving, muscle cars, the Knicks, and early American longrifles.

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814 profile views
  1. Hubac's Historian

    New member, still deciding ........

    Welcome to MSW, Dave! This is a tremendous place to be and there are many friendly modelers who go above and beyond to share their knowledge and craft, and often, their spare parts! I hope the hobby will take root in your brain and that you'll become an active member of the community. All the best, Marc
  2. The cordless Dremel Micro is a fabulous tool that balances well in the hand without fatigue, and has decent battery life, great RPMs, and minimal chatter or vibration. Now, it isn't anything near the quality of the dental rotary tools, but for the price it absolutely can't be beat. I have roughed through so much plastic on just one coarse sanding sleeve, and it still cuts just as well as when it was new. I use it constantly to waste material, and with some practice I've even managed to get closer to finish work with this tool. Hands-down, it is the best investment I've made for my project and I use it almost every day.
  3. Just a small sample size to see how the spacing is working out: The shell carvings are yet to be made, but I think this is going to work out just fine.
  4. Hi Jan, One inch is equivalent to 25.4mm, so each 1/16 of an inch is equal to 1.58mm. With that in mind, my carvings measure: 4.76 x 3.17mm Not quite micrometer-worthy, but small, nonetheless.
  5. So, these folliate diamonds proved to be the most vexing little things to draw! It was important to me that I hold a specific size - 3/16” x 1/8”, in order to better accommodate the fleur-de-lis positioned just below the Xs. While bigger than the scrolls, conveying a slight sense of asymmetry among the four fronds was more difficult than I expected. Both finished carvings are faceted along the fronds, and I will add a round button to the centers, before making my moulds. Below, you can get a sense of the pre-carving rounding over of the fronds: Although, the overall dimensions are exactly the same, the visual weight between the carvings varies: I will use this to my advantage by placing the heavier looking ornament on the Xs, and the lighter ornament between points of the frieze lattice. Try as I may, I just could not get a decent shot of the faceting of these things, but they are much crisper, in person, than these pictures would have you believe.
  6. Hello Force9, I am fascinated by your excellent modification of this iconic kit. The standard you are working to is quite high, and perfectly exemplifies the notion that one can make a serious model from a plastic kit. I will be following along with great interest. All the best, Marc
  7. Hi Jan, thanks for looking in and for your gracious compliment. In answer to your questions: Yes, I am confident that I will be able to cut the scrolls out without damaging the frieze lattice. As it stands, I have mostly scored through the .020 styrene sheet for the lattice and it won’t take more than a few passes to free the lattice. However, before I do so, I will use the same shallow sweep gouge that I used to cut out the scrolls, to cut around them and down through the .020 sheet. In answer to your second question: Maybe. I’m not sure, yet, whether I am okay with the weight of the frieze lattice. I figured I would err on the side of heavier, and then if I didn’t like it, I could pare it down from the inside edges (opposite the edges that the scrolls are mounted to). And, as a matter of fact - while I was scribing through my paper pattern, I was cutting along the middle/inside of the line, in an effort to ever so slightly reduce the weight of the frieze, as compared with what I drew. This operation will be facilitated by the process of cutting out the lattice that I intend to follow; I will first cut out the enclosed negative space in the inside, before freeing the scrolls and Xs on the outside. This affords me an opportunity to make adjustments while the frieze is mostly supported. You may have noticed that I am experimenting with a raised half-round moulding, between scrolls, along the bottom and eventually the top of the frieze. The weight of this moulding leaves just the slightest shoulder flat, to either side, so I think that tells me that the weight of the frieze will be okay as is. I wanted to add back this subtle detail because it was one of the elements that I had to scrape away, along with the old layout. Anyway, In either case, it will be a process of feeling it out as I go. Lastly, as I mentioned, I will be cutting shallow reliefs on opposite sides of the X intersection to give a more three-dimensional appearance, here. I can’t actually complete this step until after the lattice is glued to the bulwarks, but it is my experience that it takes surprisingly little to create the illusion of depth. This, too, will have an impact on how the frieze looks when it’s done. I will probably use the aft-most segment of the frieze to experiment because this small section is separated from the rest of the frieze by the upper finishing of the amortisement. If I guess wrong and screw it up, it won’t be a big deal to re-scribe this small section.
  8. Thanks, Mark! I was aware that I could delete a pic from my photo cache, while in edit mode, by clicking the trash can. This deletes the pic from the post, altogether. My issue is that, sometimes but not always, a picture will get “stuck” at a place within the post where I don’t want it to be. This sometimes happens even when I very deliberately placed the cursor where I want the pic, but then it places the pic at the end of the post. Sometimes, but not always, I can simply highlight and delete the pic within the post, and then re-position the cursor and re-load the pic from my cache and it works. Still, other times, the program will insist on placing the pic at the end of the post, after deleting within the post and saving. This is a vexing problem because it doesn’t happen all the time, but when it does, I am always posting from my phone, which is how I make the bulk of my post entries. Maybe it’s an issue with my phone. Your solution works, Mark, but it deletes the pic from the post, altogether, and if I want the pic to remain in the post, albeit in a different place, then I have to re-load the pic. Not really a big deal, but a little cumbersome when sometimes it just allows me to make the simple edit. For the record - I’m totally okay with the fact that you deleted the pic. That was helpful 👍
  9. Really a lovely model, Aviaamotor! I really like the use of heat to highlight the banner carving border; it reminds me of shading in marquetry. I will be following along with great interest.
  10. Work on the frieze continues, un-abated. I transfered my layout to .020 styrene sheet. This thickness will be better than thinner, I think, because I will be doing a little light relief work around the Xs to highlight their intersection. More on that later. The design was easy enough to transfer with a sharp EXACTO, after having pasted it on with a children’s glue stick. After the scribe, and carefully checking to make sure I hadn’t missed any lines (I still did miss a few!), I soaked the plastic in a tray of water to remove the paper. Then, it was just a matter of placing the scrolls onto all the pointy corners: It was better to glue the scrolls in place before cutting out the frieze lattice, because the scrolls overhang the frieze lattice. So, now, when I do cut out the lattice, the scrolls will be fully supported upon the upper bulwarks. I really am not good at counting because I will need way more than the first 100 scrolls that I made. Each side, including the forecastle, requires about 70 scrolls. But, in the grand scheme of things that is not a big deal. I’ve already made the rough castings and started extracting them. The pattern you are seeing above is the port and starboard side nestled opposite each other, and then cut in half to make it easier to transport to work. So, I apologize if this all appears a little jumbled right now. It’s a work in process, and it will all come into sharp relief soon. My other side project is the last bit of prep work on the upper bulwarks to prep for the frieze. I’m not sure why, but I had initially preserved the mounting strip for the mizzen channels (which is still evident in the picture below, port side). Finally, it dawned on me that I will also be lowering the mizzen channels to just above the main deck guns (on the same line that Heller originally placed the main and fore channels). There is plenty of contemporary portraiture of first-rates to support this arrangement, and the less my frieze is interrupted - the better. The other big epiphany I had was what, exactly, I was going to do with the “coach” window to dress it up a bit. I never really liked what I drew, in the first place, but then I realized that the main deck port enhancements would be perfect, here, and would lend ornamental consistency to the whole design. I added haunches, of differing widths, to the top and bottom scrolls to give the gingerbread framing effect that I was after, in the first place. I think this will blend in better with the surrounding frieze and it just looks more 17th C. to me. In my opinion, and for the record, the coach window is too large to begin with, but I won’t go to the trouble of filling it in and re-cutting, etc. For my purposes, on this model, good enough is well enough. Next, I will finish the port side window, and then finish glueing scrolls to the port frieze. After that, I will begin to carefully extract the frieze lattice and glue it in place. Again - it is so annoying to me that this website sometimes does not allow you to erase duplicates of a picture without completely deleting and re-uploading the pic. Anyone else have this problem?
  11. Lucky guess, really! I appreciate that you stuck it out and found the answer. Always learning something new.
  12. Likewise, EJ, I will be watching with great interest to see what direction you take. Everything you have done, so far, has made for a really terrific model, and you have really transformed the kit. As always, thank you to everyone for continuing to check in and for your likes and comments. I know this is really slow, but comparatively speaking (to 2+ years ago, when I started this), we are really close to painting and assembling something. This ship is all about the ornamentation, though, so this is why I have spent so much time trying to make this happen. I promise this will soon pay off into something worth seeing. But, again, thank you guys for sticking around. I really appreciate it!
  13. Alright! I have a workable layout that I was able to make mirror copies of for both the port and starboard sides. Standing apart from the structure of the bulwarks, it sure doesn’t look like much, but this lattice is the framework for the new ornamental scheme. I’ve finished making all of the tiny scrolls. I made over a hundred, so that I would have plenty to choose from. I can now begin cutting out and mounting the lattice, and decorating it. I still have to make the folliate diamonds and the shells, but the scrolls and fleurs are more than enough to keep me busy in the evenings.

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