Heronguy

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About Heronguy

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    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Skiing, weaving, physics.

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  1. Yeah, been there - I wimped out on the splitting of 5mm planks. I think you'll likely be ok if you ended up double planking deck as long as the waterway height is left as it is. Thats where the stanchions attach and where the scupper holes are located ... Still you'll be able to figure out how to get by on the 1st planking!
  2. Yes, waterways 1st. This was a deviation that I made from John's instructions and it caused me trouble when it came to stanchions, bulwarks and scuppers. I detail my problems caused by my deviation in my build log. The AL instructions put waterways on top of the deck planking.
  3. Thanks popeye. The goosenecks took several attempts to get to this stage. I'm happy enough with them to use these ones. I am missing a mast band so I tried to make one this morning. Not a very successful 1st try. This was a 0.5mm strap that I tried to bend around a 7mm diameter mandrel. I think I need to find thinner brass strips before I can make anything that looks half decent. I've been pouring over your photos on the CUX87 blog to try to help decode the various mast fitting and rigging in relation to my version of the kit. i'm glad you've got that stuff up there! I kept hoping everything will suddenly make sense to me but finally decided I just had to make some decisions and get on with it - its my boat after all!
  4. I found something else to like about Billing Boats kits. The fittings are good quality and even after 2 or 3 decades you can get replacements! I was missing some of their brass eyebolts and their rigging screws. I ordered them on the 15th and they were in my mailbox on the 21st. Thanks Billings USA. Now I can assemble the masts.
  5. 1st impressions are very positive. As many have said here the machines are very nicely built they exude quality in the parts and the finishing. I've only run a bit of scrap swiss pear through the saw and thickness sander. I can't believe the difference between a strip of basswood and a strip of swiss pear! I don't know if I can ever use basswood again (I exaggerate of course). My wood budget will have to be increased. My next challenge is finding somewhere to work! Plus 1 celsius is ok for 15 or 20 minutes but when it rains tomorrow then I'm really out of luck. If you come wait 'til warmer weather - but not black fly season - the other reason I get driven indoors!
  6. I had the same question when I got to that point. I went with your Pic 1 although the plank then twisted along the false keel to the stern. This photo might show it This is from the stern with the hull upside down. This is after the walnut keel has been added.
  7. Finished shopping for the workshop (for now). I'm pretty pumped to see how much damage I can do with these.
  8. The balsa support rails were a fine idea. I was able to handle the model without the constant worry of snapping more extensions. I'll use this trick again! Despite the warnings about the plywood bulwark pieces and the problems they caused on other builds, I decided to try them out for myself. I installed the 1st strake - deck level - which defines the bottom of the bulwark. Clamping the starboard bulwark and carefully (but not quite carefully enough dear reader) I marked the plywood for trimming. The goof was at the bow where I trimmed way too much. The cute a small wedge to cover most of the gap. It will be covered later with planking. However getting the plywood firmly glued at the bow did require several attempts. I decided to install (temporarily) a balsa filler block at the bow. I shaped it to provide support for the glueing of the plywood to the hull. I proceeded more carefully with the port side. (nothing like trying to avoid the same mistake twice - you can always make new mistakes ) Then on to the transom. Another challenge finding how to clamp the transom for long enough to have the glue set. Finally ended up with some tape that holds it well enough. Took out all the balsa supports. So here's the results to date: One small problem that came with the kit I think is a small overlap between the last gun port and oar port and the bulkhead extensions. I don't think it will present any real difficulties. Slightly more troubling problem, and one I haven't resolved yet, is getting the bow bulwarks properly installed. It looks like too wide a gap. I wish there were more info on the plans so I could get the bow correct on some build (I've been stymied on all my builds so far! - can't figure it out yet!) K
  9. Hi Robert, My version of the Bluenose II (billing boats) didn't provide parrels either. Took the expedient of glueing the jaws to the mast when I was sure where I wanted the gaffs positioned (I wired them on until then). All depends on how far you want to take the model. You're doing well at fabricating so I'll look forward to see what you decide. Keep up the good work - it's fun to watch.
  10. The batten is just there as a guide. You can remove it as you proceed with the bottom of the hull. Your moving fast!!!!
  11. Just looking carefully at your photo of the planking batten I'm wondering ig it is actually 35 mm down on bulkhead #8 It looks like more to me when I compare to my own photo and to John's in the tutorial. remember you want to measure along the bulkhead. I use a strip of paper marker at 35mm and lay it along the bulkhead to mark the 35mm location. If your planking batten is too low it is not too late to move it. You'll have to remeasure at all the other bulkheads but it is quite recoverable!
  12. I don't think things are as serious as you think. Is you concern that planks are breaking, or that things aren't looking parallel and filling the space to the planking batten? If it is breakage then you could simply get some basswood strips from your local hobby shop and keep on going (solving the breakage problem) The AL planks are 5mm so just get 3/16"x1/16" strips. They'll likely cost $0.30 or $0.40 each. I presume you'll be painting or second planking the model so wood differences won't matter. If the problem is the layout of the planks then remeasure at the bulkheads and recompute the tapering needed for the current belt. If I just don't understand the problem you're having then forget what I just said. If you don't understand my ramblings then ask again I'll try harder!!
  13. My notes imply a 5 degree rake in the fore and mainmast but I can't find a definitive reference to that just now. In my kit it suggests taking the angle from the plans. Perhaps your plans will show the rake? I think your going to want to have the masts glued down unless your kit has some other way of firmly supporting the stepped masts before rigging. I'll be interested to hear more informed opinions. Your build is going really well!
  14. You'll find it goes pretty quickly and when you have half the planks on you'll really feel like you've got a ship in your hands It looks like a great start.
  15. It's looking really good. I think you're on track! I feel the same way about following the mods. It's an easy introduction into kit bashing. I learned a lot from my diversion especially when I tried to diverge from John's instructions too - oops. My advice is to read ahead - and in my case do that 2 or 3 times. keep up the good work!