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Heronguy

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Skiing, weaving, physics.

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  1. Don, I'm looking forward to planking now that my fear of an earlier mistake has diminished. I was concerned that the stern section wasn't deep enough to allow for the deck. Now that the balsa block has been carved out I'm happy to say that it is OK.
  2. Funny about that popeye - I feel cross-eyed! In any event planking a deck seems very different than planking a hull.
  3. Thanks Chuck. Good explanation. I'm certainly using Syren rope as my benchmark to determine when I eventually get it right! It's kinda fun trying. Being a bit of a technophile it is appealing to me to tryout these various tools.
  4. Thanks - new to the process and still learning. I have over-twisted on a few attempts so I'm probably over-compensating somewhat. When you refer to "tensions" are you saying each strand having equal tension or are you suggesting additional weight to increase tension on all the strands? I'm presuming the latter.
  5. it's taken a long time to get back to the rope making experiments. I have done a few trials both to learn the tools and to evaluate the ropes that I can make with the yarns at hand. I'm using a Domanoff Planetary Ropewalk for the fine yarns and then the Domanoff Prosak v3 for the heavier rope (made from the strands that came off the Planetary). The threads I've tried out are the 90/2 lace linen, 60/2 lace linen, and some ne50 Cotton. The cotton tread is Gutermann ne50 packaged for quilting machine in 800 meter spools. The cost was under $10CDN The ropewalks allow 3 or 4 strand ropes at each stage (with or without centre-core) I've started to make a table of resulting rope sizes in various configurations but have not done an exhaustive list. I was disappointed in the 60/2 black linen as it was quite dull in appearance and somewhat "slubby". Oddly enough the 90/2 linen (tan) and 60/2 linen (tan) both produced good rope. The cotton rope was also quite good. The smallest rope I've made has been 0.015" the largest 0.047" Here some of the ropes shown coiled on a dowel to measure diameters I'm using some of the cotton rope 3 strands of (ne50 3 strand) .8mm (.032") for my Essex Cross-section shrouds. It is on the left - the rope on the right is .025" from Syren Ship Model Company ( the closest size that I have).
  6. The 2nd planking is done and there is lots of it. I've enjoyed the exercise but I'm pleased to be on to a new step. And like others who have gone before me I wanted to see what the hull would look like with a coat of wipe-on-poly My intention is to follow build instructions and paint above the waterline and copper below so we won't see the beech wood in a while.
  7. Peter, it is developing beautifully. An inspiration for me. Well done.
  8. I haven't yet developed any affection for deck fittings but then again most of my model ship building has involved planking hulls! I really have to move on to the rest of the ship! I gather you enjoy fitting out the decks, your builds always have pretty cool fittings - something to learn from.
  9. I'm told its is beech (see Don Robinson's build log). The parts list for the kit says it was to be walnut but it clearly isn't! The beech is very easy to work with (at least at this thickness - I don't have any other experience with it)
  10. Thank you Tim. I've followed you love/hate relationship with your build (I know it is a bit strong to describe it that way). I must assume that your standards are much higher than mine - I really like what you're accomplishing with it.
  11. Heronguy

    Why use a CNC Mill

    Thanks Pat, By the way, my name, Doug, is in my signature, like yours I agree that cost/benefit analysis is valid. I don’t assign cost to the learning and the setup phases - is a personal choice but not fair to assume for others. In in terms of benefits I don’t know how I’d have milled the bracket without CNC. I suppose if it wasn’t an option I’d have settled for the soldered bracket and perhaps even practiced more to do a better job. I was pretty pumped by my milled piece though - that’s worth something for me!
  12. I put the ship's boats aside for a while and went on to the deck furnishings. They look so plain (especially the forward companionway) that I am tempted to try to do better. @Tim I. did such a great job on his interpretation of the cabin and companionway in Philip Reed's book (Period Ship Modelmaking - An Illustrated Masterclass) that I will try to do similarly. Just started on that process
  13. Since the last post I've planked and painted the inner bulwarks and planked the deck.
  14. 1st planking was completed a while ago and 2nd planking is well underway. The challenge with the 2nd planking was clamping around the stern where the filler block didn't allow the clamp jaws to rest. Since the filler block will be removed in a future step it seemed far to cut a channel now to provide clamping surface. When that wouldn't work I tried elastics to provide some clamping force. But soon the clamps wouldn't work. On this site I recently read (and of course forgot to note from whom I got the idea) that using a planking iron to heat the plank accelerated the setting of the wood glue. This turned out to be a brilliant idea. I've been using it to attach each of the 100mm planks. It takes about 10-15 seconds for the adhesive to set. It works especially well on the curvy bits. I think the moisture in the PVA glue, when heated, helps the wood to adopt the shape of the surface it is pressed on. I have not used any CA adhesive. Thank you ????? I wish I could find the post I read to give proper credit. I am grateful! Planking has just reached past the waterline. All the planks so far are full width. I'll shape the ones from here to the keel as required with the likelihood of some stealers and/or drop planks. Below the waterline the hull will be coppered (a 3rd layer!)
  15. Heronguy

    Why use a CNC Mill

    I'd love to hear how others on this site are using their CNC mills and lathes. I have a lathe on order and although I debated CNC vs DRO for the lathe I eventually decided on the CNC version since the computer interface provide the equivalent of DRO information another seem to me to be opportunities if controlling X and Z axes concurrently on the lathe (I'm thinking balusters for railings for example - I might want to produce many identical ones).

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