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    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Skiing, weaving, physics.

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  1. Thanks Chuck. Good explanation. I'm certainly using Syren rope as my benchmark to determine when I eventually get it right! It's kinda fun trying. Being a bit of a technophile it is appealing to me to tryout these various tools.
  2. Thanks - new to the process and still learning. I have over-twisted on a few attempts so I'm probably over-compensating somewhat. When you refer to "tensions" are you saying each strand having equal tension or are you suggesting additional weight to increase tension on all the strands? I'm presuming the latter.
  3. it's taken a long time to get back to the rope making experiments. I have done a few trials both to learn the tools and to evaluate the ropes that I can make with the yarns at hand. I'm using a Domanoff Planetary Ropewalk for the fine yarns and then the Domanoff Prosak v3 for the heavier rope (made from the strands that came off the Planetary). The threads I've tried out are the 90/2 lace linen, 60/2 lace linen, and some ne50 Cotton. The cotton tread is Gutermann ne50 packaged for quilting machine in 800 meter spools. The cost was under $10CDN The ropewalks allow 3 or 4 strand ropes at each stage (with or without centre-core) I've started to make a table of resulting rope sizes in various configurations but have not done an exhaustive list. I was disappointed in the 60/2 black linen as it was quite dull in appearance and somewhat "slubby". Oddly enough the 90/2 linen (tan) and 60/2 linen (tan) both produced good rope. The cotton rope was also quite good. The smallest rope I've made has been 0.015" the largest 0.047" Here some of the ropes shown coiled on a dowel to measure diameters I'm using some of the cotton rope 3 strands of (ne50 3 strand) .8mm (.032") for my Essex Cross-section shrouds. It is on the left - the rope on the right is .025" from Syren Ship Model Company ( the closest size that I have).
  4. Why use a CNC Mill

    Thanks Pat, By the way, my name, Doug, is in my signature, like yours I agree that cost/benefit analysis is valid. I don’t assign cost to the learning and the setup phases - is a personal choice but not fair to assume for others. In in terms of benefits I don’t know how I’d have milled the bracket without CNC. I suppose if it wasn’t an option I’d have settled for the soldered bracket and perhaps even practiced more to do a better job. I was pretty pumped by my milled piece though - that’s worth something for me!
  5. Why use a CNC Mill

    I'd love to hear how others on this site are using their CNC mills and lathes. I have a lathe on order and although I debated CNC vs DRO for the lathe I eventually decided on the CNC version since the computer interface provide the equivalent of DRO information another seem to me to be opportunities if controlling X and Z axes concurrently on the lathe (I'm thinking balusters for railings for example - I might want to produce many identical ones).
  6. Why use a CNC Mill

    Pros and cons of CNC Mill The advantages obtained by CNC capability on the mill include: ability to move the cutter in any of the 4 axes simultaneously (e.g. milling an arc) precise control over movements ability to reproduce multiple identical parts the joy of watching the machine do the work The disadvantages include: having to specify milling intentions in a very primitive programming language (g-code) learning curve of the CNC programming language (g-code) cost of the system Things I still have to explore: CAM software for designing parts (I’ve played with FreeCAD and ben frustrated, will try out Fusion360) Path generating software ( to take CAM model and generate the g-code to machine the part. Things to be aware of: There is no magic in the systems at present You still have to know how the part can be milled. You have to specify the order things happen, the tools to use, and you have to know the capabilities and limitation of your particular mill and tools.
  7. Last summer I was fortunate enough to get good deal on a Sherline 2000 CNC mill. As a former software developer I was intrigued with the idea of computer control but as a novice ship builder and novice wood/metal worker I thought It would be most likely that I would just use it in manual mode with the hand wheels while I learned some skills. One of my 1st "projects" involved making a weaving accessory for my spouse. That involved a simple pattern of drill holes in a board. The CNC program was pretty trivial but it was cool to stand back and watch the machine do the work (my management credo: "I love work - I can sit and watch it for hours"). But what about ship modelling use. The 2nd project was working on a "riveting Jig" based on the Syren jig defined by Chuck P. More drilling but to tighter tolerances. This took a lot longer due to learning about milling machine backlash adjustments as I tried to debug a systematic error in the positioning of the holes in the 2nd and 3rd rows. More recently I wanted to square a section of the main mast on my Essex cross section. This was exciting as it was an opportunity to to use the rotary table that came with the mill. This was another little job that I wanted to do precisely and, since I can lose count on the hand wheels quicker than I can turn them, I used the computer interface in manual mode (so the computer drives the CNC steppers in response to individual move instructions - basically gives you DRO capability - no need to count hand wheel turns). I practiced the moves on a spare bit of doweling to be sure before I put the already prepared mast near the cutter. It was going well until I jogged left instead of right! One ruined mast. To be fair I could have made the same mistake with the hand wheels but the damage would have been minimal. Time, I decided, to write the CNC program to square my mast. I realize that all of this stuff could be done with the mill in manual mode, but as I said, I love "work watching". Last week I finally came up with a need for the CNC mill that I couldn't have done otherwise. The brackets to hold the stunsail booms to the yards (if I've got the correct words ) for the Essex cross-section were horrible(plywood) and making them out of brass sheet silver soldered didn't turn out too well, so I decided to try milling them. I really like the result. The milling took over 40 minutes the 1st time (with a 1mm end mill I used a really low feed rate). The 2nd 3rd and 4th ones one took 12 minutes and I ramped up fedd rate and depth of each pass. There were 2 small manual steps after milling the basis shape. I drilled the holes for the spars rather than having the end mill do that part, and I flipped the piece over to mill the substrate off freeing the bracket from the stock.
  8. Sherline mill and lathe questions

    Nice Collection and Presentation!
  9. Sherline mill and lathe questions

    My mill is just mounted on a cheap piece of "shelving". Laminate surface is easy to wipe down. I added rubber feet. I have to move the front one as I've moved the mill onto a roll around tool that is a bit narrower.
  10. Sherline mill and lathe questions

    Lot's of choices as usual! I have a 2000 mill that I bought 2nd hand and have not seen any need to consider the "8-axis" adjustments. As you point out with a tilting table already in your accessories it is even less likely to want the additional "axes". I have read that the re-alignment of the mill after rotating the head has to be done carefully which adds to the time to make the changes. My mill is inch version as well but I have just ordered the metric leadscrew (and the 18" table) so that it will be compatible with the 17" metric lathe also on order. I have also read opinions that support the longer lathe (see John Earl's comments for one). I would have accepted the recommendation to add DRO option except that the mill I purchased is CNC and that pretty well removed the need for DRO. I've chosen the CNC lathe package as well. If space is not too much of an issue I think having both the mill and the lathe will be an advantage to avoid reconfiguration of a single machine.
  11. Model Shipways Lifeboat

    I've been building this boat over the past little while as part of the Model Shipway's Prince de Neufchatel. I've had some significant frustrations and some small successes. I've documented them in a few posts starting here.
  12. I have a ropewalk on order and was looking for yarn for experimenting. I have a supply of fine linen and cotton yarns from our home weaving studio. The finest is labelled 28/2 which yields 7200 meters/kilo. I checked our sources for weaving yarns and discovered 90/2 (27,200 m/kg) , 60/2 (18,000 m/kg) and 35/2 (10,600 m/kg) lace linen in black and in natural. These are sold in small spools of about 250 m for around $8. One source is Vavastuga located in Massachusetts. Once I receive the ropewalk and the lace yarn I will do a few experiments and post some results.
  13. Hello

    Hi Jamco, it is nice to see the Ontario contingent is getting larger! Will this be your 1st build on MSW and your 1st wooden ship kit? Whichever it is, enjoy!
  14. OcCre kits

    I have the santisima trinidad kit on the shelf. The plans seem comprehensive full scale with part numbers . The instructions are in the form of a pictorial step-by-step (in colour) and a 3 page English instruction keyed to the photos.
  15. Model Shipway Ratline tool

    To summarize my experience: Ratliner was slower and used more ratline rope than OnShip. While the actual rattling is very similar in both methods I had more trouble getting the knots on the OnShip method to be as firm and to stay snug until the dilute glue was applied. Here the Ratliner seems to help me. The mounting of the shroud units on the main mast was not difficult. Alternating between port and starboard loops as they were placed over the mast did not create any problem. I did not have any problem with the shape of the ratlines as I tightened the shrouds individually. I made an error in mounting the starboard shroud unit and put it on backwards. When I discovered it I determined that from an appearance perspective was fine so I have not corrected that mistake. A second problem exists with the the port shroud unit. For reasons I have not "sussed out" the ratlines are not parallel with the top rail. I might perform a redo at some point but it is not the worst mistake in the build! Overall I'm happy with the tool. I can imagine doing fine without it and if time were of the essence then ratline OnShip would be OK as well. The use of the Ratliner is likely my choice for my next ratline task because I found the ergonomics better and I appreciated the ease of clove hitching when the end(s) are held on the frame rather than loose. Trying to get a thirdhand positioned near the shrouds in the OnShip method does not appeal to me. One very simple modification I have made is to add a guid to the frame for holding the white card behind the rattling area.

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