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flying_dutchman2

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About flying_dutchman2

  • Birthday 07/18/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Crown Point, IN, USA
  • Interests
    Dutch Ships (1600-1850), Especially different types of yachts, Everything about VOC history, Woodcrafts (carving, scrollsaw), Bonsai, Edible gardening.
    Member & Secretary of the Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago.

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  1. Wood used on the vanes. Long piece that holds it together (Roede) is poplar. Piece on top of the roede and the windbord is cherry. Horizontal (heklatten) and vertical (zoomlatten) slats are purpleheart. Someone at the woodclub gave me a big tube full of it. So I thought that it would be a perfect fit as it is strong and dark in color. Marcus
  2. Inboard planking is completed. Added 2mm by 2mm stock, 3 pieces side by side which equals 6mm in width as the top of the railing. Once dry, sand and paint it dark brown or black and glue them in place. Marcus
  3. Finished putting together 2 vanes. The other 2 are almost done as well. Than need to add some filler, sand them and paint them. The above pictures show the angle of the vertical slats (zoomlatten), on the horizontaal slats (heklatten). Next week I will go to hobby lobby to get some more colors of acrylic paint and some dark red powder (to color the bricks). Bricks will be created from a combination of Polyblend Sanded tile grout, Quickcrete concrete acrylic fortified and the red powder. I have already made a template and downloaded the instructions from the miniatures site. This process will be described later on this build. Also need to get a couple of cans of Clear coat lacquer (not glossy), 1quart of grayish paint to imitate the thatch. Marcus
  4. Vane one and two both have their 2nd vertical slat (zoomlat) glued on. The Titebond III dries fast. Per instructions is to clamp for 30 minutes and longer is better. Do not stress joints for 24 hours. Not much stress here so I will add the third vertical slat. Do it three more times to have all the vanes look alike I have noticed that some of the horizontal slats are not straight, they are a bit on an angle. Doesn't interfere with moving in the wind but looks a bit weird. Another major mistake I made is that the 1st and 2nd vertical slats (1st en 2de midden zoomlat) have to be in the back of the horizontal slats. The 3rd vertical slat is to be placed in front of the horizontal slat (achter zoomlat). I am making all the vanes with this mistake. Not going to redo this. Marcus
  5. Sanding the hull is pretty much completed except for a small area on the bow. Started the inboard planking with 2-ply cherry. It will follow the curve of the wales. Some of it will dissappear below the deck as that has a much relaxer curve. Barely anything on the Boyer is straight. The Custum cabinet maker in the town over is retiring so I was given many planks of maple, cherry and walnut. Four sheets of veneer 8' by 1' - 2-ply of 2 cherry and 2 maple. It is 0.8mm thick. So nice planking. Also picked up a combo sander. 10" disk and 3' long flat sander which can be tilted. Could have used that for the mill couple of months ago instead of the small one I have. Marcus
  6. All 4 vanes have there horizontal slats (heklatten) glued in the roedes. Started by measuring the spaces of the long vertical slats (zoomlatten) by creating a template from basswood with the width of 26mm. Pencil a line using the template as a ruler. Apply glue dots along the pencil line. Put the template back and clamp it to a slat. This will help me by aligning the vertical slat. Push the vertical slat against the template and clamp to horizontal slats Remove template. Start clamping each section and let dry overnight. Did the first part of 2 vanes and here they are drying. The above is a tedious job and will take the longest to complete. Everytime I do a vertical slat (zoomlat), I will let it dry overnight. Once they are completed I will paint some parts. Marcus
  7. Working on the vanes in stages. When one step is done from one vane, go to the next one and do another step. As for the glue used it is Tight bond III which is waterproof. The vanes will be painted except the slats. In reality a Miller doesn't paint his slats but uses an oil base material so he can regularly check his 'ladder' (slat parts) to check for broken slats. Here are 3 stages of assembly. From left to right. Left: Glued the slats on the roedes. Middle : Deklat which is a strip of wood glued on top of the roede and keep slats in place. Right: glued windbord in place. Strip of 5mm thick wood glued to the template. The slats are to end there. Sheet of basswood clamped to the strips on the side to keep all slats aligned. Deklat installed. The 4 triangles, or kluften hold the windboard at the same angle as all the other slats do. Windboard is glued and clamped. Marcus
  8. Carl, Sanding is not yet completed, but thanks for letting me know. The stern was difficult to shape. The bluff bow, I have experience with (yachts, tjalk, boeier and botter). Marcus
  9. Mark, Yes they are and a challenge to build especially when there is very little information about them. Couple of pictures in the 17th century merchant ship book and a painting. Marcus
  10. flying_dutchman2

    The "What did you do in your Garden today?" thread

    This year my bonsai Coral Bark maple (Acer palmatum - Coral Bark) is exceptionally beautiful. The leaves have turned intense pink and yellow with a bit of orange. The stems are bright red. She is about 18 inches tall and I think about 10-12 years old. The Trident maple (Acer buergerianum) is starting to turn orange and red. Pictures will follow. This year I trailed Wildflower patches. Both annual and perennial to see if it is worth expanding. Low growing good bug blend from Peaceful Valley and a simple mix from American Meadows. Lots of flowers and still going. I am letting some go to seed for next year and collecting the rest. My wife likes it as well and she suggested that I turn the backyard into a Wildflower field with 4 foot paths around the perimeter of the wildflowers which would be next to the fence, paths to the greenhouse and edible garden. Possible total area of 20,000 square feet and then some. There will be a few 3 footers but mostly under 24 inches. The blends are for attracting butterflies and other insects. Less mowing, which is great. Marcus
  11. Started on the vanes and while each step needs to dry overnight I will also be working on the triangular piece (kruiwerk) which will be positioned in the back of the mill. These are all the pieces that make up one vane (wiek). The 4 triangular pieces on the lower right of the picture are called 'kluften'. They hold the light brown long piece at an angle. This is part of the vane that catches the wind making the vane move in the wind. The horizontal slats have been glued to the roedes. It will be drying overnight. Next time I will fill in the area on top of the slats with a combo of sawdust and glue. This is to show the angles of all the slats. Marcus
  12. Completed the second layer of planking and filled in the cracks with a mixture of cherry sawdust and white glue. Once dry, the hull will be sanded. Marcus
  13. Jan, The copper tubing in which the roedes are attached to are all 90 degrees, so I am good on that one. I don't know about finishing her before the rain season sets in. I will be spending more time on making the vanes then building the mill structure. Looking at her with the roedes the mill is pretty big, but then compared to the house and when she is in the garden she won't look 'that' big. Marcus
  14. I have completed the planking up to the wales. Now comes the difficult area. I plan to use two pieces of 0.5mm thick planks glued on top of each other, which makes the thickness of all the other planks I used. I will do this as there is some extreme bending. My planking of the Boyer is different to the model in the book. The model in the book follows the curve of the wales all the way to the keel. It does straighten out a bit. That stern of the model has straight planking as well. So, it follows the curve of the whale and towards the stern it bends 90 degrees and ends up straight when it hits the rudder post. (hope this made sense). I followed the planking as a combination of the Utrecht and from a book of the Valkenisse, by Rob Napier. The Dutch planked there ships differently compared to the rest of the seafaring world and I am doing this in my models as well. Marcus

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