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rtwpsom2

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  1. UK Timber Suppliers

    LOL, well there goes that plan. Maybe I can get the kids interested in ship modeling and they will be able to get some wood from them.
  2. UK Timber Suppliers

    I'm in the US and was looking for boxwood but no one has it over here, so I've been looking for UK suppliers. I found Workshop Heaven and I just ordered 5 pieces about 8-10 inches long and and inch and a half square (roughly) for about £67 with shipping. It seems awfully expensive but I couldn't find it anyplace in anything but Syren's milled sizes (which I'll probably get a few of too once I have a better idea of what I'll need). At least it is true buxus boxwood and not castello. I might have to start growing some boxwood shrubs around the property so I have some supply in the future.
  3. What have you received today?

    I've always hesitated on getting one of these because I worry the joint is too flimsy and will either not hold the lever perfectly straight, or will wear out and not hold the lever straight. I would love to see one of these made from aluminum plate.
  4. Damn, you just brought up some memories. I was looking over the list and saw John Lambert's name in there. I considered him at least a pen-pal if not a friend. I first got in touch with him in 2010 about some weapons drawing he was doing and we started regularly emailing each other. I was rather melancholic when I found out he passed a couple years ago. He was a good man. I didn't see the Witch listed in their collection, but I will ask someone over there just to be sure. If I decide to stick with the Chappelle drawings, I probably won't need the Smithsonian set, unless they provide more detail into her cabins or fitment.
  5. Yeah, not having those are going to be a problem in more ways than one. Wayne, I'm still waiting on my copy of Tea Clippers, I ordered it a month ago and it still hasn't shown up. Damn amazon vendors. I think all the sources agree on a LOA of 220'. I'll check again with the lines from Tea Clippers once it comes in, but I just can't get the lines from Chappelle to resolve the frames at 202' between perpendiculars.
  6. What have you received today?

    I received these today. I stole and idea from Bertu's HMS Victory thread and got a bunch of these off amazon to add to my tool collection. I was pleasantly surprised to find out I have a fairly level desk without even trying. I also received a UV flashlight because I have sons who get that their dad is just a man child and have little trouble convincing me to get toys I don't need.
  7. Druxey, The Bruzelius article I mentioned is transcribing a Boston Daily Atlas article from May of 1851. The numbers Bruzelius publishes match the numbers Crothers published in his masting book. For references Crothers cites the same article but he viewed it directly from the microfilm from the Library of Congress. I cannot speak to the authenticity of the original article, in fact I do question a couple of minor things as denoted before. However the numbers given are most likely accurate to the 1851 article.
  8. Hi Wayne, as far as the offset lines go I guess it helps to think of how you draw the lines without offsetting them. Your scanned line is this thick channel and you need to put your spline in the dead center of that channel. But eyeballing it can often be difficult. When you offset the spline you now have a constant width channel that more closely resembles the thickness of the scanned line. Then you can use the gaps on either side to get a better sense for when you are truly in the center of the line. I don't know, it seemed rather intuitive to me, but I'm probably a little touched in the head, so it might not make sense to others. Anyway, thanks for looking.
  9. Just read up on the Victoria which taught me about the Burke and Wills expedition. It's interesting to see that Australia had it's own explorer expedition similar to our Lewis and Clark expedition in the US. Pretty cool stuff. The Victoria seems to be a fairly similar rig to the clipper ships, albeit powered of course.
  10. Guess they raised rates, I've never needed as I have a copy through work so I wasn't aware. Either way, that's still a pretty good deal.
  11. Just a helpful tip to get SolidWorks, if you join the EAA (the Experimental Aircraft Association) for their annual membership fee of $20, you can get a free license of SolidWorks student edition. This is the cheapest way to get a copy other than pirating.
  12. Started work on a new project, the extreme clipper Witch of the Wave, built in 1851. She was designed and built by George Reynes of Portsmouth, NH. She was originally owned by Glidden & Williams of Boston. Oddly enough, Gerorge Reynes son George Jr also built a packet freighter by the same name in 1856 in the same yard his father built this one in, so there is the possibility to get confused. Witch of the Wave was quite long lived for an extreme clipper, sailing for at least 34 years. She set only one record, her 1855 passage from Calcutta, India to Boston, MA in 102 days. She was quite beautiful even by standards of the day. A great deal of attention had been paid to the details of her workmanship and the quality of her fittings. Her cabins were fitted out with rare woods of curious workmanship and expensive furnishings. She had a library of over 100 books. Her figurehead was that of a beautiful woman holding aloft a scarf as she glides across the waves, with gilded branches and leaves stretching out behind her that grow to wrap around the hawse holes. She also had occuli, painted eyes on each side of her bowspirit commonly found on ships involved in the tea trade. This log isn't intended to be anything but a log of how I do stuff. Others do stuff differently and use different tools and concepts to do them. I'm not saying they aren't right, or that my ideas are better than theirs. I'm only trying to show how I go about it. I've worked in SolidWorks professionally since about 2006 and have done some WWII era warship models for Dragon Models and some CAD models of airframes for a company that restores WWII era fighter aircraft. So I'm posting this with the idea that you guys might be interested in how I do things. The quid pro quo is that I am hoping you guys can share your knowledge about ships where I am lacking, and I have been able to ask a few things in the forum already, for which I'm grateful. That said, I am hoping this doesn't come across as me being stuck up about how I do things or that I feel superior to others in my skills and knowledge-base. I do things my way and steal ideas from everyone else when I don't know how to do something. You might notice that EdT's work on Young America is something I consider highly influential. This is where I started, research-wise. This was the first hard data I found on WotW. It comes from The Search for Speed Under Sail; 1700-1855 by Howard I. Chappelle. The book is 10" tall x 8" wide so unfolded this layout was 10" x 16", a pretty decent size to work with for a scan. Fortunately I happen to have a large format flatbed scanner which can do 11" x 17" at 12,000 DPI. The resulting image was 18528 x 12408 pixels. I cropped a part of it here for you to imagine how large the full size image (zoom for effect). Needless to say it would be a little unwieldy in this format so I had some work to do on it. Here you see the occuli and her figurehead. The first problem is that the plan and profile images were split on two pages. Fortunately the image didn't go down into the gutter of the spine so I had nice clean edges to work with. In Photoshop I cut out pieces of the image and pasted them into a new document. I then lined them up using the grid and rotate layer command. Here is the profile image done. The processes I'm describing were done for all images, I'm just showing a couple quick reference images in order to save time and space. This is apretty lengthy process by itself and should probably have it's own discussion. The next part was a little more involved. There was minor warping all over the image. Fortunately there were tons of grid lines that I knew should be straight. I had to use the warp transform tool on the parts to get them into some semblance of straight and true lines. Needless to say this wasn't easy and took me about an hour for each view. The fore/aft view wasn't as hard because I didn't have to stitch two halves together, but it still got straightened up. Here is the plan view done. Next I used the sketch picture tool under sketch tools in SolidWorks to insert the resulting images into a new part. I added relevant geometry and used the dimensions I knew to scale the image up to the proper size. I found out that the frame stations were on 32" centers which did not diminish near the ends. I then added in more geometry for the individual frame stations. Next I created a new sketch on the midship plane and added the hull lines and some waterline geometry. And after that the plan view with buttock lines. The resulting work in 3D. Next I added in some rudimentary sketches for the bowspirit and jib boom. This gave me a rough overall length of 273' to 274'. The next thing I wanted to focus on was the fact that I didn't have a midship cross section to work with, only small sections of individual parts like the keelsons and garboard. A midship cross section is important, as it will help you lay out geometry and understand the interactions of the pieces more easily. So I created this one to get a general idea of how she laid out. Here you can see her rather unique keelson setup. Her sister keelsons were fayed to the floor and transitioned into her 4.5" floor ceilings. Next was adding planes for each frame station. I accidentally named the first plane m when it should have been l but I fixed that later on. The garboard is 7" thick at midships but thins out to 4" at the stem and stern. The frame angle varies from about 86º at the stem to 18.5º at midships, then back to 87º at the stern. After doing some number crunching I came up with a rabbet line, shown here in blue. In this view we are looking down the centerline of the ship from just above the baseline so you can see how it warps. And then I added a bearding line for the keel, again highlighted in blue. Here we are on the horizontal baseline of the keel, looking at it from just right of centerline. If the above rabbet line is the warp, this curve would be the weft. SolidWorks finds it easier to loft a surface if you maintain some uniformity to it's geometry. I intend to do this in one surface if I can, so I am making each frame loft section full height. It might make more sense once I'm done. Trust me, I'm a professional. Here I've finished adding in the port side lines. As before, all lines go from the baseline up to the 36' line. These line remain unsmoothed as yet. I will start smoothing them once all the lines are drawn. Looking from an isometric viewpoint, you can see where the bottom edge of the lines are constrained to the rabbet line (red arrows). That will give us a good start for smoothing later. The blue arrow indicates a good example of how the lines are not smooth yet. Even a well controlled spline won't always do exactly what you told it to and takes some coaxing. Aft of midships, I run into the rather small problem of having to draw lines on the starboard side of the ship. The solution is rather easy, a simple mirror command, which necessitates we also add a centerline. Work on the lines nears completion. Added in a rough estimate of the transom, this is probably not final. The green color is an approximation of the color of Zinc Chromate, the paint used on the insides of aircraft during WWII to curb corrosion. The parts template I use for work has this color as standard, so just ignore it. Or don't, you're an adult, you can do what you want. Added in planes to add in sketches for the buttock lines. I noticed that when I put the scan in for the reference image I forgot to scale it horizontally. The blue plane lines should line up with the tick marks on the scan. When you scan a drawing to put into CAD like this you need to scale it not only vertically but horizontally as well, and make sure the two are not linked. Line drawings scanned from books are never scaled perfectly one to one in both axis. Here is the first buttock line. I added in a spline with the same number of control points as there were frames. I then selected a control point and one of the frame lines and used the pierce constraint. The control point of the spline is now connected to the frame line as if it "pierces" through the control point. This let's us compare the model shape against the drawn buttocks lines. The closer I can get the buttock lines to match the lines in the scan, the more accurate the hull will be. The second line is added and what I am seeing is that the frame lines and buttock lines from the scan are pretty good so far. Once all the buttock lines are in you can see that me not scaling the lines horizontally is probably causing some issues, since the gap gets worse the further out from centerline you get. I'm probably going to have to adjust the horizontal scale of that front view image again and redo all the frame lines. Just to check, I moved the planes I created outwards until they lined up with the wrongly scaled front view to see how the change would affect the buttock lines and the result says, "Yep, you're gonna have to fix em." I added the 39' 8" width in as a couple of reference lines mirrored across the centerline. Then I edited the picture to scale it properly. Remember to uncheck the item in the red box to ensure it doesn't just scale the whole image. Here's something I do a lot when I am tracing images for a loft. I offset the spline by just larger than than the scanned line is. In this case the line I scanned is scaling out to around 3/4" thick so I offset at 1/2 inch in each direction (bi-directional) and check the offset geometry under construction to make the outside lines into construction or reference lines. Here's a close up of the result, you can see how it is helpful to get right down the centerline. Since I know the lines in the drawings I scanned are pretty good, I am going to start the smoothing process. This starts by selecting the main spline and selecting "Show Curvature" in the properties manager. You get a series of lines called a Curvature Comb that you can use to check your spline. You want a smooth comb without these kinks in it when you're done. Next is to add dimensions to control points. These are already constrained vertically so the only way they can move is horizontally. Controlling them with numbers is the easiest way for me to smooth the curve. Here you can see we have a couple of bad spots but overall it's not terrible. Sometimes the result isn't a beautiful comb where it is exactly the same thickness throughout, in this case I'm working on frame Y which is in the transition area between the concave curve at the prow and the convex curve amidships. That little dent about 2/3rds of the way up is the remnants of the prow's concavity. Usually you prefer to see something line frame g, which is straighter as it approaches the bow and begins to curve in a more uniform manner the higher you go. Smoothing is coming along, but is really tedious so to distract myself I have added some details to midship section. Lower planking was 4" x 14" up to the turn of the bilge. Turn of the bilge is a rather arbitrary term so I put the change where I thought it should be. From there to her plank sheer the planking was 5.5" x 7". The width of the wales planks is only 7 inches, compared to the 14 inches of the the lower planks, this is because the curve becomes more pronounced and the 14" planks are too wide to accommodate the curve. I might still pull out a couple of those lower planks and move the wales down and in a little more, I haven't decided yet, but the curve looks a little to much for those last two. Her plank sheer is 5 inches think and her main rail is 5.5" x 20". Nothing else is dimensioned so the rest of this is best guess to get the known dimensions to agree with each other. Her bulwark planking is 3" x 6" and only on the outside of the hull. Inside her bulwarks are open up to the rack rail. She has 4" thick clamps above and below the main rail, these fill the gap between the main rail and the monkey rail (fancy rail). I'm not sure about the waterway, in the description by Bruzelius they are said to be 14" square but this seems a bit excessive. They would end up cutting away a quarter of the material when they cut the molding into it. It also doesn't leave a great deal of open space between the plank sheer and the rack rail, but that seems to be an aesthetic thing to me so I'm not sure if that's more than just my opinion. The next question I need to clear up is the masts location and rake angle. Most of my work is based on the Chappelle drawings, so I kind of default to his being right most of the time, but here I have to disagree with him. Bruzelius describes the rake angles of the masts in inches to the foot, while Chappelle drew them in angular degrees. In other words, Bruzlius says the fore mast is 1.25 inches rake to the foot. If you draw a triangle with one side 12 inches and the other 1.25 inches, you get a rake angle of 5.95º. Chappelle has drawn his masts at 1.25º directly. In my drawing each mast has two lines. The solid line represents the rake angle in inches per foot and the dashed line in degrees. I think we can agree that Chappelle made the common mistake of replacing triangular dimensions with angular dimensions. The second question is location and here I think Chappelle might be right but I'm not sure. Bruzelius describes the ship as being 202 feet between perpendiculars, but Chappelle describes it as 204'. The reason for the discrepancy is the length between the frames. The original waterlines, when scaled to 204' show a spacing between frames of 32". But at 202' the gap is 31.9". a gap of 31.9 inches seems implausible, so 204' is the more likely length between perpendiculars. Bruzelius' dimensions for the mast locations are 45' from front perpendicular to the fore, 67' from fore to main, and 53' from main to mizzen, with 37 remaining between mizzen and aft perpendicular. Chappelle, however has the given dims as 45', 68', 53'6", and 37'6". These numbers are in better keeping with the ratio numbers listed in Crother's Clipper book. The below drawing shows the masts located according to Bruzelius. The image below that has them located according to Chappelle. These changes, overall, will make a little more room at the front of the main deck, but are going to make the poop deck a bit more cramped. So, overall, this is where work has progressed to after about a weeks work. If you guys see any errors, please let me know, I'd rather fix them now than find them later on.
  13. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Got back a little late yesterday to type this up, so I'm sorry it's a "what did you do yesterday." I've been needing wood for a while now so I decided to drive up to Port Townsend, which is about an hour from here, and check out Edensaw Wood. I packed up my two younger boys and we head up there for a half day sojourn. Well, I'm ashamed to admit that when I got to Edensaw I basically just blew my load, and by load I mean my budgeted money for wood. There was just sooooooooo much I wanted to get there, but in the end I kept it under $250. I intend to do a post in the wood subforum later if you are curious about what I got. After that we headed into Port Townsend proper and had lunch at a little cafe near the ferry terminal. Craig and I had the prime rib dip, while Colin had the chicken strips. We watched the ferry load up, leave, then another ferry arrive and unload. We also saw what must have been a sailboat training class because this rather nice 40-50 footer kept doing loop the loops around the harbor. Next we went up to Fort Worden and walked around the light house and toured the museum. Craig wanted to see the batteries but when we got there they had yellow taped everything off with some notice about closed for filming. I was a little mad about that. Then Colin wanted to see the aquarium but it is closed on Tuesdays. We ended up just playing in the sand at the beach for a while before they got tired and were ready to go home. That water is way to cold to be called beach water. I'm used to southern California beaches which are around 70º and the beaches in Mexico which were around 80º. By the way, if you guys haven't checked out http://www.edensaw.com, I highly recommend the place. It's expensive but they have some of the finest exotic lumber selections you'll ever see. The stuff I got yesterday is just beautiful. Long straight clear grains, nice figuring where I want figuring, just amazing stuff. Can't recommend it enough.
  14. Thank you for checking and for the offer 7of9. I appreciate it. Roger was able to get me some pictures of the table. I'm thinking I might compile it into a table to pay on here, but it won't be for a few days. Anyway thanks again.

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