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About Jaxboat

  • Birthday 04/27/1948

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    Wooden period ship modelling, Plastic Ship modelling, Playing golf poorly

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  1. For the record: tung oil and linseed oil are highly unsubstituted vegetable oils. They "dry" through oxidation. Oxidation is exothermic and thus the fire potential if stuffed in a ball without proper ventilation. Used engine oil will not ignite from oxidation because it has already been thoroughly oxidized in your crankcase. Solvent soaked rags are not heat generating but if the room temperature exceeds the flash point of the solvent and a spark source is nearby fire will result. Keep rags with drying oils and solvents away from your home Jaxboat
  2. I am very cognizant of acrylic resin properties as I sold acrylic water borne and solvent borne resins to paint companies (including artist paint manufacturers) for years. "Acrylic" refers to a whole family of polymeric emulsions and resins that differ by molecular weight, composition, water solubility, solvent and alcohol tolerance, flow and leveling etc. Additionally, additives also enhance paint properties. My favorite brand currently is Vallejo. I think they have an excellent balance of properties. However, while brushing and spraying properties have improved immensely, they still aren't as good as an alkyd solvent borne enamel or acrylic solvent borne lacquer. On the other hand, the acrylic water borne products are much more environmentally friendly and offer easier cleanup of brushes. I have used Jo Sonya paints too and really liked them for their brushing properties (haven't sprayed them) and vivid depth of color. I have not found an acceptable water based product for priming metals especially brass. I am going to try Ed T's Rustoleum process.
  3. But Druxey, me thinks not enough suffering and existential angst in getting them right with this method. Jaxboat "That which doesn't kill you makes you stronger" -Fred Nietzsche
  4. Very sick, Jason! Keep up the good work! Jaxboat
  5. Jaxboat's rule no 2: Chances are that anything that reacts chemically at room temperature quickly will also react with you!
  6. I have experienced high temps with CA if the part was wet. Best Jaxboat
  7. Meeting at Lee Valley!!! I would need to be restrained. Paraphrasing the late Tom Magliozzi of Click and Clack fame: "Never pass up an opportunity to buy a new tool"
  8. I agree with all of the comments on this blog. I also had some plan reading issues but they were minor and I was able to recover quickly. I am building Confederacy which is a big model and the building slip has been a very welcome tool. I also use an Amati hull clamp but it proved too small for a project of this size and weight. However, it will remains my choice for more modest sized models. I also purchased and use the paint brush stand which again is very nice. I have my shipyard in my garage in Northern Florida. Our humidity is world class in the summer and so far no issues with the MDF. Best Jaxboat
  9. Jaxboat


    Nope. Artesania Latina is a separate company Jaxboat
  10. Hi Rusty, Great work as always. Your ladders look great. How did you cut the grooves (file? razor saw?, table saw). My first attempts at the confederacy method were OK but not as nice as yours. Best Jaxboat
  11. Jaxboat

    Possible ebony substitute

    The shoe dye that Druxey mentions work very well to simulate ebony. It does have one drawback. The stuff has almost zero surface tension and will flow through any size aperture including a tightly closed bottle cap if the container accidentally falls on its side. Trust me, I know! RE carbon black: a most interesting material. The stuff is extremely hydrophobic and is very difficult to disaggregate and disperse in water (special wetting agents are required). Carbon black is rated by particle size and "jetness" i.e., blackness. These properties are controlled by what is combusted and the amount of oxygen used during carbon black manufacture. Best Jaxboat
  12. Great stuff. Was on her several times when she was HMS Rose
  13. Excellent and very good photography
  14. Canute makes a distinction between enamels and lacquers. For the record: Lacquers can be re-solvated after application. Nitrocellulose, CAB and thermoplastic solvent borne acrylic resins are commonly used in lacquers. Enamels cannot be re-solvated readily after they fully cure. Both enamels and lacquers have superior wetting properties to water borne acrylics although the acrylics are rapidly catching up. Water is just a lousy solvent with very high surface tension (beading). For my money Colour Coats are the best solvent borne hobby paints I have ever used. They brush well and spray well after proper dilution. On the water borne side Tamiya and Vallejo are my faves with excellent pigmentation and wetting for a water borne. I use water borne paints whenever I can for the ease of use and lack of solvents

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