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About rwiederrich

  • Birthday 01/22/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bremerton Washington
  • Interests
    Astronomy, telescope building, clipper ship model building.

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  1. Thank you Doris for the fine examples of the direction you are going. I suspect my own lack of the exact time frame for the shift from offset bowsprits to the more traditional forward and on axis designs drove me to this line of questioning. I'm looking at the counter action created by the gammon lashing, which do their work by pulling the bowsprite in toward the midline and down toward the stem. Your picture examples show that lateral forces are applied to the starboard side of the Stem not on top of the stem(which I referred to as the *Foot*)....which in later designs became more prevalent. If the bowsprit does not find support from contact with the *Foot* or Stem...then all the Gammon lashing energy is being countered by the fore stays. Regardless....my questions have been answered, and your attention is most appreciated. Love your work. Rob
  2. I appreciate that very much Popeye....effective looking sails can be some of the hardest things to replicate...and keeping the web of rigging that controls them is just as critical. Now I'm back at the beginning stages again of yard fabrication and rigging for the mainmast. Much of what I learned along the way of fabricating the foremast will truly expedite this next masts construction. Foot ropes, stirrups, and eye bolts will all be added prior to install. I'll be off work for 11 days during the holidays so I hope to get loads of work done. Thanks again for your fine comments and compliments. Rob
  3. Doris I drew up quickly, an example of the 3 possibilities the bowsprit might find itself. Key elements are noted on the drawing. My question is, from your model, the exit hole for the bowsprit would place the bowsprit off axis if you were to seat it on the foot as noted by the example on the right. if you were to keep your bowsprits termination on axis, you would follow the drawing example on the left. the middle drawing is a representation of an average. Key notes: The bowsprit is abutted to the foremast(for reasons previously noted). The real question is, will you be actually resting the bowsprit on the foot(where it usually is found) or will you be placing it along side it and allowing for it to be centered and then fixing it there? That was my entire line of questioning. Rob
  4. In most instances the offset for the bowsprit was established because of the internal proximity of the foremast and the bowsprit. Because the forecastle was short and tall, the bowsprit and foremast found no room to be on axis with one another...so they did indeed offset the bowsprit by fashioning it beside the foremast. I know this,....however, in one of the images Doris took of her additional seats of relief addition...the angle of the exit for the bowsprit and the bowsprit foot is too acute...resulting in the bowsprit being exaggerated to port by almost 20degrees....from what I can tell. My original question was centered around that angle....NOT that, was that angle(Or offset) correct. I can only assume the bowsprit will be fashioned NEXT to the seat and not ON the seat... Question: Doris...will you be rigging this model with masts, yards(sails) and rigging? Rob(inquisitive minds want to know)
  5. I suspected that...but I thought I'd ask. The angle appears to be significant in relations to the distance of the hole(Bowsprit exit) from the foot. Rob
  6. The doors are magnificent...I assume they are made from the vinyl as well? One question: I noticed the offset of the bowsprit exit hole and the bowsprit foot are not aligned...is there some reason for this? Sometimes the bowsprit is laid port or starboard of the foremast because of proximity....but I would still think the exit and foot would be parallel to one another. Just noticing. Your work is so wonderful its hardly fathomable that it is made from card stock and some self adhesive vinyl laminate and modeling compound. The folks who build exclusively with wood, would have a rough time keeping up with your standard...... Just wonderful work Doris. Rob
  7. Unfortunately the broken spar was almost inevitable....as the meat of the spar becomes less but the iron work remains the same. In their weakened state, with holes drilled through for jackstay eyebolts and in frequency....these slender spars have little in the way of rigidity when forcefully applying copper banding. I know this feeling myself...regrettable. If I took a picture every time I broke something or lost something in the hole that is the floor of my shop.....I would have no band width left for actual construction images. Ed your masterfully crafted YA is nearing her completion and the thrill of watching her come together leaves a giddy feeling. Wonderful. Rob
  8. 2 seats of ease for a hundred... requiring release from the stresses of their day....seams a bit short sighted. On the designers part.... Your model is looking superb... Rob
  9. Wonderful metallurgy.........Michael. It just keeps getting better, every time I look in....love it. Rob
  10. Her...with this material it is recommended to use an iron to heat and secure the adhesive. I believe she is using the dryer in lieu of the iron. She probably heats up the area to aid in activating the adhesive. Rob
  11. I have several rotary cutters...but you still need to draw it along the edge of a straight edge of some kind...to maintain evenness. I hope she pipes in and will honor us with her method... Rob
  12. Upon further investigation...I commend you on your tedious attention to the repetitious. The material you are using is exactly what I thought it was. A vinyl lament used to cover MDF and to simulate wood. It can be purchased in a plethora of colors and grains. Your extensive use of it is very evident and well executed. The only draw back for me is that you have to cut every plank/panel by hand. Cutting many strips requires good strong edges and clean even lines....you , evidently have mastered that. I appreciate your use of it as trim...molding...and edging. Painting it gold, brown, black.....whatever color you need. Wonderful! Casting the hundreds of figurines and molding, using a master mold is also quite industrious....Great Job! Now that I have a background on your technique...I see you have mastered it and the results are exquisite. Wonderful...just wonderful. Rob
  13. I am glad you expounded further for my benefit. I was not privy to your original explanation on this technique. Several questions, if I may? What is your source for these *foils*? Do they come in several widths or are you limited to the width they are made in? Do they come pre-colored and then you modify the color as you have described? If memory serves me correctly....I think this material is a self adhering vinyl....used primarily for furniture repair and for simulated wood applications. I noticed you used the material on the wood floor of the cabin you were dressing out. And a similar wood grained material on the walls. Your application of this material is nothing short of amazing. Rob(Why the hair dryer?)

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