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About rwiederrich

  • Birthday 01/22/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bremerton Washington
  • Interests
    Astronomy, telescope building, clipper ship model building.

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  1. Just tinkering today and I tested the iron sheet blocks on the lower topsail yard with 42 LPI chain. Everything went smoothly. These things are tiny...so is the chain. The actual sheet blocks are pretty small on the real yard, about the size of half the yards diameter. Underhills drawings demonstrate this. That is why...even in my scale..they were going to be pretty small...like grains of wheat. And chain has to thread through them smoothly and then be drawn down to a block and tackle purchase to the top. Like threading a needle. Rob
  2. Yeah....look at that dead rise........ Can't wait for some wood to start moving. Rob
  3. Spent some time today working on the foremasts yards. Making the parrel bands and lots of eye bolts. I'll begin to start installing the foot ropes and stirrups next. Once done I'll rig the yard blocks. I decided to add the sales after I finish up all the workings of the yards....just don't want to fight all that after the sales are set. Here is where I am today.
  4. OC..I was thinking of using the powder and sealer on the entire hull...not just the deck. It gives the highlights that eludes to sun washed wood and greying that comes with it. Here is another example of the same model I did of the Ferreira (AKA Cutty Sark) I was mimicking the image of the severely weathered vessel...note the accompanying image. Rob
  5. One thing you may try for a dusty old warn look is try dusting on a very light coat of odorless talk(Use a facial powder brush. I personally use cerium oxide powder. Then when the dusting settles into all the cracks..seal it all with some dull coat. See the effect. Great job by the way on the Pearl... Rob
  6. Exceptional rework Ed...I was floored to see the bent railing...but you repaired it masterfully as well as the entire redo Rob
  7. The image does show rigging in many stages of completion...however....it is the depiction of the black lanyards that drew my attention to point out that even these hired naval rigging architects understood these items had to be identified...even if it meant using modern synthetic material to mimic tarred rope. When they re-rigged the Constitution...their Naval architects deemed it necessary to rig the lanyards with black rope. I can't imagine they could get that detail incorrect, if it were not so. Rob
  8. Bob....my own experiences mimic yours in but a smaller degree. I too spent many youthful days at the docks and yards talking to and getting information from old salts. My own travels abroad lent itself to gathering much on the subject. Thank you for being so clear and depictive. Personally, I have never rigged any vessel I have ever built with anything less then black lanyards......I used the time traveler analogy...because there are very few modelers who actually are aware factually of what you so accurately pointed out. The point is the truth could be readily identified by going back in time and seeing it for our selves. One other note....most of the time a ship being driven hard in heavy seas will keep her in bound deadeyes and their lanyards submerged...if they were not preserved they would not last. One good long voyage around the Horn could leave a vessel looking as if it had been sand blasted and painted with rust and decay. No wonder captains drove their crews to paint and tar the ships fittings, rigging prior to entering their destinations harbor. it was all about appearance.....to say, *look at how smart we look after sucha hard voyage*, and to impress the owners with the skill and prowess of the ship and her master. Rob
  9. The 42 lpi chain easily slides in from both sides. I think this will do at this scale. Rob
  10. Now it gets attached to the yard band...the entire thing gets a coat of my world famous *It covers a multitude of sin* black paint.....and there I go. Ready to begin again and rigg more yards. Rob
  11. Some fashioning with the grinder to turn the little piece of metal into a functioning sheet block. Drill a hole for the pin....which will secure it and attach it to the yard. Rob
  12. That ridge with a little help from my 3D brain...bent over on itself..is the ticket. Now to cut several to work with. Rob
  13. Yeah...I'm feeling much better thanks everyone. I spent some time making more sheet blocks and at this scale 1/8" wide...these little buggers are fun. Here are some images of the process. It all begins with the necessary metal...and that turned out to be file folder clips....one uses for medical records. Just a little ingenuity, cutting and drilling....and using the natural pre-machined bends of that material....I fashioned the very things I needed. Rob
  14. That's what makes it all so magical. One persons brown is another persons black. So who is more accurate....I wonder? One thing is for sure......I have pages of data from your build and it aids me continually with my own. And that....my friend is wonderful. I wonder if these folks might think they are correct.
  15. It is unarguable that lanyards are for tightening the shrouds/back stays. Their appropriate tension is the goal to maintain erect, stable masts....and to counter the actions brought upon these members. One can say they are part of an immovable (set) system....others say they are available for adjustment due to warpage and or stretchage. I believe both notions are true. I also believe they had to be preserved in some fasion....to what extent can only been known by time travelers. Personally...I choose dark/black lanyards....for my esthetic eye as well as what I derive from thousands of images and paintings of the subject. Best part of all is that it is a subjective topic as is most of the finer details of these magnificent vessels. I stand behind Ed's conclusion for Ed and it works out wonderfully in the end. Rob

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