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    Arkansas, USA
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    Beekeeping, pets (dog,cat), home repairs

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  1. We have hardwood floors and use "Minwax Hardwood Floor Restorer" on high traffic areas. This works well (so far) for me for thinning acrylic paints, and we always have a bottle of it around. It also seems good as a light sealer. The viscosity is low and so far no paint has curdled when mixed with it, good when you are looking for a wash or weathered look.
  2. HMS Surprise

    Tower is a very reliable vendor. Had a problem with paint once and they replaced defective item. I have also ordered from HobbyLinc and they seem good also.
  3. Thank you gentlemen! Yes, I am just in the shopping phase now. My experience level is low, and am trying to speed up some of the tasks that have turned out to be tedious and hard on my somewhat arthritic hands. Drilling and "slotting" are two things that have taken a lot of time and seem boring to me. Planking using only hand tools has proven very enjoyable. And shaping masts by hand has also been very satisfying, but future builds will require adding square sections to some of the masts and making lots of pinrails. Money is limited so getting a nice drill press seems like a good first step and perhaps not too messy to use in the spare room workshop. Upgrading to a micromill will double the purchase price, but might be for the best.
  4. Could anyone give some tips or links to how they use a drill press to notch timbers or square masts etc. using repeated plunge cuts? I am not really wanting to get into a micro-mill, just a drill press with vise and depth stop. Looking into a machine with vise with slot to fit fence on the table like the more expensive MicroMark or the Proxxon .
  5. thanks... good advice and will be interesting to do some experimentation. Woods harvested here in commercial quantities are bald cypress, red and white oak, Eastern cedar, hickory, and pine. Occasionally a cherry, maple, locust, black walnut, pecan, etc. Have made some small tables from the red cedar. It is very prone to splitting, pilot holes are a must for wood screws. So far have only done double planked models. First layer using the simplified method that Mr. Mastini describes in his book where planks going down to a sliver are allowed; second layer making an attempt at scale planking using stealers and drop planks. Doing a second layer of veneer and covering up any filler putty most certainly sounds like a good idea.
  6. I have a couple of Model Shipways kits that are all basswood. (Niagara and Glad Tidings.) The hulls will be painted, they are single planked. Is there any advantage to replacing the wood that is to be painted with something else such as Alaskan cedar or Swiss pear? Will proper priming/sealing/sanding make up for the "stringy" look of the basswood?
  7. I just built launching ways for a boat and wanted to simulate that "railroad tie" look. Wound up mixing one part Matte Medium thoroughly with one part Burnt Umber craft paint. Added several drops of Black and swirled the mix with end of a toothpick to partially mix. This yielded a nasty looking brown/black mixture; when applied to balsa sticks (careful not to brush out too much) the effect was reminiscent of wood treated with tar.

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About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

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Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research