herask

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  1. I've seen that book mentioned several times across build logs. sadly, this can turn into real expensive hobby real fast. for now I'll manage with what I can find available online... ;-)
  2. lower planking and treenails done. I can start modeling the hold... cheers Denis
  3. hm, I might have circled it wrong. I didn't mean the deadwood knee, that I have. the problem that bugs me is this: my transom frames (the vertical ones) sit flush with the deadwood knee fore edge, and there's nothing to receive the end butts of inner planks that connect at the middle at the deadwood (if that makes sense O.o). you can see on last images how my thick stuff connects to itself instead of some piece of wood or something in the middle, above the keelson. I made a mistake somewhere and don't know where, as I have followed plans that I have. that red circle on the deadwood drawing should show the empty space, like there should be continuation of the keelson toward the top of the deadwood knee... (again, I hope I'm making any sense here)... EDIT: um... is it called STERNSON maybe? EDIT 2: ah yes, it's there on one of the hold arrangement plans, the sternson knee. no clear drawing of it, I'll have to guess the shape. other builds will help though...
  4. vector programs like corel, illustrator and such have the tool to automatically convert bitmap image to vector shape. but as with any automated tool it's prone to errors. the cleaner the bitmap the better the result. for instance if you have nice sharp scan of plans with strong contrast between the lines and background it shouldn't be much of a trouble to convert to good vector shape. but almost always the result is not perfectly clean and manual adjustments are necessary... cheers Denis
  5. internal planking underway. although, it looks a bit off. it's hard to read from plans, especially 'cause they're not aligned, so I'm guessing quite a bit here... one question: shouldn't there be a wood of some kind at the transom to separate left and right side planking? again, plans don't show anything, yet at other isometrical drawings there is something, planks shouldn't be touching like this in the middle. any advice?
  6. you know, that's one of the biggest compliments you can give to a 3d artist, to tell them it looks real. thank you Pat. and to all of you for your likes. I'm really enjoying this, I can only imagine how it is to build one for real and watch it grow on the work table...
  7. stern frames done. next is the keelson and I guess I can start with inner planking... cheers! Denis
  8. frames finished, yay! well, almost. stern frames run away before the photoshoot :-)))) and some more screenshots from UE4 showing how big it is in full scale. I've read somewhere how sailors back then were pretty short, like 1.6m, so I adjusted camera height accordingly. it must've been really impressive to see in person such a beast being built, let alone something bigger, like HMS Victory.... hope you like it! cheers Denis
  9. hey Pete, thx for jumping by! I've been using Blender since 2013, just about 4 years now. how much modeling you can do in your spare time would determine how soon you could start such project on your own. there's a lot of ground to cover: various modeling techniques (polygon modeling, edge extrusions, subdivision surface modeling, splines, NURBS, NURMS...), materials setup, lighting (still trying to figure that out properly, believe me)... but don't be intimidated by the amount of learning needed. start with something smaller and simple, and push further once you're comfortable with what you've learned. you'll progress naturally into more complex stuff. I've tried Solidworks myself, and I'm using Fusion 360 for a side job where I need certain precision. but Blender is my main go-to tool because CAD modeling is too constrained for my liking. I like to push polygons by hand and I'm much quicker in Blender than in CAD program. but yeah, you end up using the tool you find most comfortable to work with, so Blender, Solidworks, 3DS Max... whatever, as long as you have fun while modeling! ;-) cheers! Denis
  10. I thought chocks were those joint pieces between floor and futtocks. anyway, I didn't see any mention about their placement between the frames. I'm only guessing here, but would they go at the joints between futtocks, to stiffen things up some more? I'm almost done with the frames, btw. it's still going slow, almost like I'm doing it with real wood, LOL.... hoping to speed things up soon.
  11. ahem...me again with the question. I tried googling but no (precise) luck. about those spacers between the frames, where would they go on Pandora? is there a certain rule about their placement or can they be placed arbitrarily by a guy who is still learning about the ship building? :-) any help appreciated! cheers! Denis
  12. thank you Don. yes, the plans are from AoTS book. I tried to align them in photoshop the best I could but the stretching was horrible. even the space between 3 station lines wasn't equal, let alone for the whole length of ship. that's why I needed to do the drafting. I guess one could build individual pieces, like deck beams and such by finding their real dimensions and not worry much about distortion in plans. I'll dig some more through the book you suggested to find some measures, or I'll just lift them from drawings and adjust to my ship. in the end, this is a computer model where I can get away with inconsistencies more easily than on a real ship model. if I see this through the end, and still wnat to build another, I might save some cash and buy a book with proper plans for my next build, just to make things easier... I'm already eyeing HMS Bellona/74-gun ship and Timbering plans from Ancre. and Bonhomme Richard, and HMS Bounty, and Le Fleuron and.... oh man, what have I gotten myself into?
  13. thank you Don, that book is huge. I'm sure I'll find something there. although I can't do much regarding frame thicknesses anymore without getting everything out of alignment. but, I laid out deck plans on the model and frame thicknesses seem OK (more or less). it's some differences in hull breadth at some places that worry me. I'm pretty sure I did the drafting OK, but now deck width varies a bit along the length. should I deform my frames to be aligned to deck plans or should I stick with my drafting and adjust decks according to faired hull shape? I can easily manipulate that deck plan to fit perfectly inside the modeled frames. and that should be the correct approach, right? considering I haven't done complete drafting, where the decks would be adjusted as well... here are the pics with decks laid out... oh, and thank you all for the likes and comments. ;-) cheers! Denis
  14. making progress. currently I'm busy with another project, but that's due soon, so I hope I'll gain some speed... cheers! Denis
  15. thank you. now that I know what to search I'll do some digging. I don't know if I'm going to invest a lot of time into a dockyard since the ship is main star here, but an appropriate setting would be nicer than a Caribbean beach... ;-D