Richardjjs
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Everything posted by Richardjjs
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the photo is showing far too blue - Amati suggest RAL7000 which is a light grey with superstructure slightly darker RAL 7001 - looking good otherwise
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incredible stron wood base no way can this be compared to card its heavt duty ply with a etched metal top layer
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there is about 1mm between the edgw of the decking and the hull - looks as though its about right for railings
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Bill You can down load the Instructions from Caldercraft web site And also the instructions from DeAgasonii If this doent ci=convince you to buy a Caldercraft Victory in the future I would be surprised Both are asimilar price although you can spread the payments on DeAgastoi the wood quality has a lot to be desired
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Incredible work Such detail Are you going to mark the deck treenails across the deck At least mark treenails equivalent to butt end tree nails as each plank would have a number of securings. Can post a picture if needed GREAT WORK
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This is superb work I would suggest that you don't fit the Gunport lids until after the RIGGING!!! How ever carefull you are the thread gets caught in the open ports lids!! I have also suggested that the Mast should be fitted and rigged seperatly Now I am working on the Spars I THINK its better to fit the LOwer Masts and the lower spars BEFORE the upper masts. The Fore and Main mast wave very complicated ways of securing them to the masts and it would be easier to do this if all the Upper rigging is fixed
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Syren are great but UK P&P is stupid Also the Are GUNS. Cannon are land based Guns ship based But thanks for the tip
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I find the "worse" bit getting the hull built. Planking so its smooth and even. If you don't get that right the whole project is a waste of time DeLongli have got it right. Built a few Guns at a time. Copper pltes a few rows at a time (Stratig at the stern if you are overlaying the plates) Amati plates come in sheet Ports and Starboard ready overlapped If you get "fed up" Build a mast top -very satisfying But yes its got to be something enjoyable Most important ENJOY I am rigging at present - now that is the best bit
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Corel in my opinion ar very clinical. Seem to be more interested in the look of the parts and packagine rather than the finished model Wood is excellent But things like the Gun carriages are golden coloured. Again in my opinion not really a modellers model
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They are supposed to be introducing A Trafagar Ocre not sure when You can buy a complete set for a Victory of al paints required for about £35.00
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Hi Guys Painted all mine with Caldercraft paint I always rig the ship with one side Closed up for action and the otherside posts closed That way you can see the beautuful line of the ship
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A model is never "Right" and it is up to the builder to build it as he/she wants You are doing a great job Ive not put tree nails on my deck at all. I am wondering if they could be marked with a punch. On my San Felipe I did the deck and the Hull because she was not copper plated Incidentally have you seen my blog on the Caldercraft and amati Facebook page. The Copper plates should start at the stgern and work forward over lapping the one behind it I also started from the hull up as is THOUGHT to be correct practice BUT the overlaps show up to much so I started at the Water line and worked down Looks much better
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Wonderful work JUst wondered why you are not showing the treenails on the deck. adjacent to the treenails on the end of the planks. I think they need tobe carried right across the deck I actually don't show the tree nails as on Victory the colour of the tree nails are very similar to the deck itself
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Superb detail Gun Carriage sides have to painted because they are not solid wood! Don't forget the main tackle passes through the Eyelets on the Carriage side Also Caldercraft rigging of the guns is not 100% accurate The lashed tackle may be correct while the ship was in harbour but at Sea the Barrel is unseated and lashed to the ship's side (Double lashed in a heavy storm) Note the rear tackle is removed as it is a trip hazard (Both in harbour and at sea) THe rear tackle is only used to pall the gun out in case of a miss fire or to change to load of the gun THe lashing would be coiled at action stations
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Just in case you are interested ive created a page for the HMS Victory Amati and Caldercraft All HMS Victory wood models are welcome https://www.facebook.com/groups/amativictory/
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My thoughts exactly Don't think this poll is fair as it only takes into account votes polled So if 1 person has voted for, say, Euromodels (ie Victory Models) and no body else has built a Victory MOdels kit then it is TOTALLY misleading
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Are you not happy with Corel. THought they where pretty good. Must admit they are more for beginners as the castings are not as good as Mantua and Panart.
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Yes looks really good Waiting for my Amati Victory as a completely new project Hopefully it will be released before 2020 Will use this for that
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Here are the Amati Copper Plates. Scale 1:64 (Elephant and ne Victory when it become available They are etched so can e attached in "blocks" !:64 comes in 2 sheets of 182 (Half starboard half port) ie 364 in pack PART NO 4392-05 around 15.00 per pack http://www.snmodels.com/en/snshop/fittings-and-accessories/photoetched-copper-plates The 1:72 have far more plate 20.00 ie 500 DONT get you grubby mits on like I have!!
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Hi Paul I am sure you know all this Have sent a number of post here an elsewhere about Coppering The main reason for fixing coppering was to prevent the wooden bottom from rotting away. A ship with a copper bottom was abetter Investment than one that did no haver it (Hence a "copper Bottom Investment") According to many ship specialists Copper was laid from the stern forward over lapping the previous plate (AS you say) This helped prevent to forward movement of the ship tearing of the plates Initially metal nails where used but that reacted with the copper and salt in the sea and all the plates fell off. Copper nails prevented this British navy ship are supposed to start at the keel and work up. British Maritime ships start at the keel and work down HOWEVER because the plates supplied by Caldercraft are not scale thickness Fitting them from the keel UP means that the overlap shows quite badly when looking down from above (One side of my Victory is plated this way) As this would be the case most of the time I applied the other side from the keel down as it "looks" much better As we know compromises have to be made when modelling to make the model look better. C Napean Longridge talks about lifting the waterline and coppering up slightly towards the bow as it looks better Interestingly Amati are now producing plates (Left and right laid) in a number of scales that only have the main rivitting one side so these can be laid side by side so they LOOK right (ie as though they overlaid) and are also etched so a few can be laid together where there is no narrowing or widening of the planking They are expensive 22.00 for 350 as against 3.20 per thousand from Caldercraft. BUT !! DRAWING ONE is the original plans from the 1:98 scale Victory from Mantua (13 incredible plans) Everything had to be cut out Drawing Two shows the copper starting from the keel Drawing three is my Copper plating starting from the hull Looks great BUT the overlap is very prominent from above Picture Four shows Amati's Plates (1;64 for Elephant and new Victory) NOTE These Mantua plans where the only place I could actually work out where the Wales came on the bow
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It would be a shame to hide up that incredible planking. I use wood oil to cover my planking on the S Felipe. Was not happy with the Caldercraft Victory, not sure why, may be the wood. If you do use copper plates try and over lap them they just don't look right next to each other. Start at the Stern (As per full size) and work forward. It should start at the hull BUT this is not proven and the plates tend to show from above GREAT WORK
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It would be a shame to hide up that incredible planking. I use wood oil to cover my planking on the S Felipe. Was not happy with the Caldercraft Victory, not sure why, may be the wood. If you do use copper plates try and over lap them they just don't look right next to each other. Start at the Stern (As per full size) and work forward. It should start at the hull BUT this is not proven and the plates tend to show from above GREAT WORK
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JUst look at the quality of the Gun Port linings. Mine are terrible by comparison Would agree with the comments about copper plating the planking. Possibly do one side. I actually have the guns run out one One side and the other with the ship close up. Copper plating is again a bone of contention. It was laid like tiles on a roof. Starting from the stern working forward and , I think, on a Royal Navy ship from the keel they where laid over each other. The problem her is that they are too thick and the edges show. Particularly if you start at the keel. Looking down the plates the edges show. Starting at the Waterline and working down it is smoother. Amati do plates that allow them to be laid side by side. They have left and right so they can be laid properly but they are expensive - about 22.00 for 350 ish. They also have an advantage that they are etched so quit large "blocks" could be laid at a time. Allows for the beauty of the hull to be seen Victory has the Lower POrts closed. Probabvly because of the weight of the Guns The rigging of the Guns in the instructions for the model are NOT complete There are three ways to rig the guns. 1. As shown Close for the sea. Note the tackle is rove round the ropes to tidy it all up. Unusable. Actually the barrel should be rove up against the side of the ship 2. Cleared for action. Extra rope coiled by end of tackle (Picture 1) 3. Fired. Gun run out for reloading (Picture 3) NOTE also the tackle to the sides of the ship is Single and double. The rear tackle is two doubles. Have added 3 shots from
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Have always found that using a bees wax block does a number of things. Makes the rope lie properly with no fluffing. Make the rope easier to handle and gives it protection against aging But yes Caldercraft parts do not seem as good as I would have expected. The one thing that I am really annoyed about is the finish of the Quarter Galleries and Stern decoration. Apparently you have to Paint the black rectangles between the windows. Not impressed with a model that costs nearly 1000.00
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This photo makes me want to strip the planking of and restarting. Bertus work is so clean THis is why I decided to paint it (My Victory from 35-40 years ago was not painted
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