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Ben752

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  1. Thank you for pointing this out. I plan to go back and alter them but wanted to keep it simple as I work through the various components.
  2. When I initially started this project, I started down the path creating a 3d model in Fusion following the order of the book. It quickly became apparent that this strategy is not an optimal way of working. However, the work below on the keel is fairly simple and was able to be salvaged before I shited to following a construction order closer to what is described in Steel. The process used is as follows: 1. Under a new component create separate sketches for the fore, aft and a middle timber of the keel. 2. The top plane worked well to construct the aft and middle sketches as it lends itself well to a extrude along the Y axis. Because the mid keel components are repeated, I repeated the component using the rectangular pattern feature. This gives me a reference edge to project in the fore timber sketch with the added bonus of propagating tweaks forward. 3. On the fore timber, I constructed the sketch using the left side plane as it allows for projecting the arcs of the stem to model the the boxing. Whenever possible, I"ve used projections off of one of my "master" sketches to allow for propagation of changes to the bodies that model the timbers. 4. To create the simplified boxing joint I created the sketch for the lower stem on the left plane, extruded on one face left face to 1/2 the thickness and used the combine/cut option on the fore keel. Then did the same on the other side but make the fore keel the cutting tool.
  3. These have really thrown me off. I started tinkering with this Fusion model about 5 months ago and while I was able to make some progress in the drafting, I would hit a spot where dimensions would be way off and I"d start second guessing everything. My natural inclination is to stop and review my work, and years of technology work has taught me to exhaust all explanations of issues using my own work before second guessing the work of others. However, I have found that the body plan on the TFFM plans appears to be inconsistent in some areas. Last week the use of the diagonals clicked and made a strong case the plan does seem to be off (incidentally the station on the designed and built draughts are very close to where i've drawn the curve). I will say that the HMS Hornet contract I found in the RMG library (outside of the plans collection) has been very useful in providing a 3rd party dimension reference. It contradicts some of the dimensions in TFFM in ways that appear to be consistent with the draughts. For those that are interested, http://collections.rmg.co.uk/archive/objects/512680.html#uaX1DK6V18Qgr5bl.99 the hornet contract is in SPB/27 This is not a criticism of TFFM at all!
  4. Good day everyone, I've recently moved to Edinburgh for work. My personal effects are somewhere in the middle of the atlantic (above water hopefully). This has given me time to focus on planning my first scratch build, the H.M.S. Atalanta. I've selected this ship due to the wealth knowledge in the TFFM series, availability of contemporary plans from Admiralty models, historical plans and many build logs. The hope is that with all of this information, it will give me enough information to stumble through the creation of plans using CAD and construction of the ship to a high level of quality. I'm using Fusion 360 as my CAD program due to it's excellent price (free for hobbyist), professional quality and integrated t-spline, anlysis tools, parametric modeling features and CAM support. I have made several false starts on the plans as Fusion is stew relatively new to me. One of the trickiest things is getting a good scan of the draughts into fusion and scaled. When you can zoom in to miniscule details of the draughts it becomes apparent how warped and skewed they are. One technique that I've found useful in fusion, is that when using the "attach canvas" that if you first create a component, you can then duplicate the component and translate it. This is quite welcomed after you go through the laborious process of aligning and rescaling the draught. To start off, I've made a considerable effort to follow the practices outlined in Steele. The dimensions have been sourced through a contract I found for the HMS Hornet at the RMG and the TFFM books. When there is a discrepancy I've sided with the TFFM as the books are my guide. My effort is to not trace but rather draft using a combination of traditional methods and 3d approaches. Given this, the sheer plan is first up. In Fusion, I've created "primary" sketches for each major major plan with the exception of more detailed aspects (following the order of Steel lends itself well to this approach). For more detailed areas, I then create a separate sketch and project or intersect the references needed. Fusion prefers this approach as it runs faster and easier to apply constraints and such. For starters, here are my sheer sketches. Below is the sketch in edit mode so the dimensions are visible (when zoomed it the dimensions are more manageable). I've found using custom parameters exceptionally useful for cataloging scantlings and the source reference material I used.
  5. The zebra analysis tool also has been quite useful in getting a feel for the cursory fairness of the hull.
  6. The approach I've taken so far follows something like this: 1. Draft the sheer plan on a sketch following the approaches outlined in Steel. I've been using model parameters to define the scantlings to support changing values easily. The description has been very useful for providing traceability. 2. Create a half breadth & body plan sketch. 3. Start building up additional detail on subsequent sketches on the same plane as the sheer, e.g. deck curves, transom details, etc as it seems fusion works best with more sketches with fewer details. 4. Build up the profile of the hull using offset planes at station intervals with sketches representing the details of the body plan. While I originally used the patch workspace loft command, the t-spline (from the sculpt workspace) loft allows for more flexibility in fairing.
  7. Looks fantastic Greg! Will there be anyway to see measurements in the 3D model? I hope the Hornet contract was useful. Looking forward to getting this to help with my future Atalanta build.
  8. I was looking to get a 4 jaw sometime this year but given their prices rarely are discounted it looks like I'll be getting one this month. https://www.sherlinedirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1507&CFID=140895239&CFTOKEN=82798041
  9. Niagara by A.Jorden

    Very nice. I really like the color selection of paint.
  10. I found this very useful app for color matching photos to model paints. It has all of the major paint brands and will calculate blends based off of their published swatches. While not a foolproof technique, it seems like a decent baseline for approximate matching. http://www.id6.ch/id6_WebSite_en/iModelKit_v2.html
  11. I agree, they are very useful tools. Sherline also sells some, albeit smaller. Their square block is actually an octagon. I plan to get a set to mill the octagonal mast sections on my US Brig Niagra. http://sherline.com/product/2045-index-block-set/
  12. I use a small vacuum when working and keep a HEPA air cleaner running continuously (it's pretty quiet on the lowest setting, still tolerable on the higher ones). Even this tiny air purifier has helped quite a bit, however I've yet to graduate to any significant power tools.
  13. Yea, 30-40 thou is way off! One thing I found on my manual Sherline, is to check the spacing between the lead screw bracket on the slide and the hand wheel (I'm assuming this can still happen with how the stepper attaches). I had a gap on mine that was contributing a fair amount of backlash. Fixing it was as simple as adjusting loosening the set screw and pushing the hand wheel flush and tightening again. If the machine is really worn, the brass nuts inside of the slides are replaceable as well but it's a more involved process. I'd try replacing the brass anti-backlash nuts first. When I first received my machine, the prior owner had really tightened the gibs and it was causing the anti-backlash nut to not do its job effectively. Tapping them loose and lubricating/cleaning them appropriately was all I needed. I probably sound like a broken record but try Fusion 360, it's free for hobbyists. I find the parametric approach makes the most sense to me.
  14. I agree on tracing if you're working off of scans. It's pretty easy to do this in Fusion 360 using "Attach Canvas" then tracing using a spline then use mirror to ensure symmetry. Then extrude and you have an STL. One thing I found when using attach canvas is it can be tricky to calibrate it accurately. Through some trial and error I discovered one pixel in an image is represented as 1/2048 of an inch. This might be useful if you want adjust the scaling factor manually.
  15. Cool Tool Box

    I ended up buying a tool roll for all my files so they don't bang together in drawers, though finding one in the right size was actually pretty hard (only the same poor quality Chinese ones). I found some on Etsy, and hand made in Montana too. https://www.etsy.com/listing/241214316/handmade-tan-canvas-paintbrush?ref=related-5 The quality is great and I was happy to spend the extra to support a small business. They also will make custom size ones for not much more.

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