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el cid

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  1. el cid

    Lowering Yards

    I suspect that because the upper sails and yards were relatively small, it was easier and perhaps safer to furl these sails by lowering the yards (as opposed to rigging and stepping out on foot ropes and pulling the sails up). During heavy weather the upper yards (with sails attached) and masts would be struck down to the deck to lower the ships center of gravity and reduce windage aloft...I think this was a common evolution for ship's crew. HTH Keith
  2. If you’re doing a seascape display, you might want to check out the technique described here: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=155661 I believe the modeler is a professional artist and his painting, weathering, and seascapes are perhaps the best I’ve seen. Unfortunately I think he’s moved on from ship modeling, but am greatful he was kind enough to share his techniques. HTH, Keith
  3. el cid

    Cannon Maintenance

    While I'm unsure during what condition the guns would be kept loaded...always when underway or only when enemy action was likely or expected, I doubt they were loaded and unloaded daily. It was though probably common, at least in well-run warships, to exercise the guns regularly. Probably have the gun crews go through all the motions except for actually loading and firing (to conserve powder and shot). I can't cite a reference nor do I have direct experience with muzzle-loaded artillery, but I suspect once the guns were actually loaded, they normally stayed in that condition until fired (with a tampion in the muzzle to keep moisture out). I'm sure there were tools for removing the wadding, shot, and powder in case of a misfire, but this operation was (is) probably inherently dangerous. Hopefully someone else here has a good reference and can give a more accurate answer. HTH, Keith
  4. el cid

    MSW plastic invasion?

    Dive right in Channell! I’m a novice with wooden kits, but think a lot of the skills we pick up working in resin, plastic, and PE transfer over. I’m specifically thinking problem solving, kit mods and scratch building, attention to detail, and perhaps most importantly, patience and perseverance. I’ve followed your builds here and on the other site and am confident you have nothing to fear. Cheers, Keith
  5. I usually try to get the major components assembled and prepped before beginning to prime and paint. I haven't built a plastic sailing ship since I was a little kid (Revel Flying Cloud I think), but for modern ships I'll build the hull and add the deck so I can get good clean joints all around. I'll also assemble the various superstructure components and clean them up too. If there's a joint that will need to be cleaned, I'll attach superstructure pieces to the hull before painting everthing together, otherwise I paint the hull and superstructure pieces separately then assemble. I picked up a trick somewhere along the line whereby you spray your deck color first, then by spraying the hull and superstructure at a low angel (i.e. from below the deck level), you don't need to mask the decks. Just some touch up with a brush where there is slight overspray or paint "holidays." Very important...where you do paint parts before attaching, you have to scrape or sand the paint off of each surface where the parts meet. Remember, styrene cement (e.g. Testors liquid) is a solvent that "melts" the plastic parts together. Paint effectively prevents the chemical reaction from occurring. You're on the right track, thinking ahead and problem solving. Cheers, Keith
  6. Cement together, fix gap and any other flaws, prime and paint. I also tend to attach any other sub assemblies to the hull before painting, if feasible. HTH, Keith
  7. Bob, it looks like we were typing at the same time. I was trying to make similar points, but your response is articulated much better than mine. Cheers, Keith
  8. Couple of points re: "definitive" sources of info on rigging, especially running rigging. Unless there is photographic or other evidence for a specific vessel at a specific point in time (e.g. "as built"), all we can do is make reasonable, educated guesses as to the exact configuration. Often there are many different ways to perform a particular rigging task, and I suspect period sailors had their favorites (that were perhaps not well documented in the literature). Therefore rigging configurations may have changed with a vessel's captain, sailing master, or bosun, or just evolved over time. Also, maybe rigs varied based on materials and supplies (e.g. blocks, line of a particular size, etc) available at a particular point in time. I offer the example of main sheet controls for a modern recreational sailboat (see https://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3901). All are "correct" and will serve the purpose, but pick a popular boat model that's been around for any length of time and I'll bet you can find a variety of different main sheet configurations, modified per each owner's preference. For modeling, I use the available resources to help understand the purpose of a particular rigging system and then try to think like a sailor when deciding on which technique makes the most sense (considering of course general time period and nationality). FWIW, Keith
  9. el cid

    When to use what glue?

    For joining styrene to styrene, I always use a liquid solvent like Testors. With the model parts joined together, you can use a small pointed brush or a pipette to apply the solvent to the joint. Capillary action will wick the solvent into the joint and effectively “melt” the parts together quite neatly. I typically use CA for attaching resin or photo etched parts. Thin CA will wick into joints neatly too. White glue can also be used for attaching photo etched parts, especially small-scale ship’s railings and such. And for gap gap filling I haven’t found anything better than Bondo Spot and Glazing putty. My oldest surviving models are 20+ years old and everything seems to be holding together. HTH, Keith
  10. I suspect the even-foot level of accuracy for the trunnion ring height was sufficient for ballistic calculations during the period, given the likely degree of precision in determining the other parameters (target range, speed or angular motion, target height, wind speed and direction, etc). Lots of other variables come into play (powder characteristics, powder temperature, projectile characteristics, bore condition, rounds fired, barometric pressure, etc. etc). All of these factors are precisely measured today but likely not considered or accurately measured prior to WW I. Cheers, Keith
  11. As a retired Chief Fire Controlman, I couldn't help but note the similarity between the carved horizontal line with arrow below and the rangefinder on the FC rating badge (see image below). Anybody know when stereoscopic rangefinders came into use (and possibly the associated symbol)?
  12. el cid

    Music to build ship models to ...

    Ok, I'll play too... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Z5BIiBckvs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bw9gLjEGJrw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX9esXzzO7w
  13. There seems to be a dearth of information on binnacle cabinets. This is a replica of a 17th century cabinet from the vessel Nonsuch (found at the Manitoba Museum website).
  14. Maybe survey marks? See article linked below... https://www.ngs.noaa.gov/web/about_ngs/history/Survey_Mark_Art.pdf
  15. There’s a reason compass leads are used in drafting, as opposed to just chucking a pencil on one leg. Compass leads aren’t sharpened to a conical point like a pencil, they’re sharpened to a bevel. That way as the lead dulls, the diameter of the circle (or arc) doesn’t decrease too (as measured at the inner edge of the line). Hard to picture in the mind’s eye, but I suspect if one could find an old drafting textbook, this would be better explained and illustrated. Cheers all, Keith

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