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el cid

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  1. Re: Jud's astute observation. I think the modeler should consider whether they are representing the ship as a clean, prototype display (clean, no weathering, no paint fading, no rust, grease, etc) or as an "in service" display (weathered, worn, and faded, rust streaks, grease stains, etc). Well cared-for museum ships like Victory are more like the former; an active ship, even a well-kept ship, is going to show signs of wear-and-tear. The pitfall for modelers is inadvertently mixing the two representations. FWIW, Keith
  2. el cid

    Your First Model

    LOL, never saw the squirrel model, too funny! This was one of the many Aurora kits I remember, thankfully no fur.
  3. el cid

    Your First Model

    Like others, I can’t remember my first, but I do remember the general themes that held my modeling interest beginning in about 1970. Looking back I think I built every class of plastic kit that came along...cars, trucks, aircraft, ships, armor, space, even dinosaurs and “cavemen.” Also Visable V8 and Wankle rotary engines and the old Scientific DosAmigos Baltimore clipper (to date my only completed wooden ship model). Most of these were built to the kid standard of the day with Testors tube glue and brushed paint. Took about a 25 year break from modeling and came back to a whole new world of high quality plastic and resin, PE, and fantastic online resources.
  4. My observations re: pure ting oil, not tung oil “finish,” on new walnut rifle stocks. First couple of coats cut 50:50 with mineral spirits. Applied liberally and allowed to soak in for about 20 minutes or so, then excess buffed off. Wait about a day between applications. Later coats, maybe 10 or more for long-term protection, cut about 75:25 tung to mineral spirits. Buff well with a cotton tee shirt in between.applications. Makes for a nice deep, water proof (or resistant) finish. Note that with age the tung oil oxidizes to a nice reddish brown color. Not sure this directly addresses your post, but maybe cutting the tung more will help even out the splotches. HTH, Keith
  5. el cid

    Pet Peeves

    I've come to appreciate the elegance of the roundabout. Traditional intersections, with their multitudes of lights (often with bizarre or poor timing or inoperative treadles) seem rather crude by comparison (how many times have you sat at a red light without another vehicle in sight). Roundabouts require cooperation among drivers, intersections are command and control...no real thinking required (maybe the appeal?). Re: pedestrian crossings at roundabouts, most I'm familiar with still have crosswalks marked, which give pedestrians right of way (though still wise to obey the rule of gross tonnage). And I find traditional intersections, what with vehicles potentially turning from different directions (and right turn on red) hazardous as a walker. I actually prefer to cross (jaywalk) mid block where I only have cars coming from two directions. And maybe a new peeve...people who stand in the checkout line for minutes as the clerk scans their items, and only when the last item is scanned do they start fumbling around their pockets or purse for their credit card or cash (or heaven forbid, checkbook). Have they never made a purchase before? Did they not know payment was required? Cheers, Keith
  6. el cid

    Lowering Yards

    I suspect that because the upper sails and yards were relatively small, it was easier and perhaps safer to furl these sails by lowering the yards (as opposed to rigging and stepping out on foot ropes and pulling the sails up). During heavy weather the upper yards (with sails attached) and masts would be struck down to the deck to lower the ships center of gravity and reduce windage aloft...I think this was a common evolution for ship's crew. HTH Keith
  7. If you’re doing a seascape display, you might want to check out the technique described here: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=155661 I believe the modeler is a professional artist and his painting, weathering, and seascapes are perhaps the best I’ve seen. Unfortunately I think he’s moved on from ship modeling, but am greatful he was kind enough to share his techniques. HTH, Keith
  8. el cid

    Cannon Maintenance

    While I'm unsure during what condition the guns would be kept loaded...always when underway or only when enemy action was likely or expected, I doubt they were loaded and unloaded daily. It was though probably common, at least in well-run warships, to exercise the guns regularly. Probably have the gun crews go through all the motions except for actually loading and firing (to conserve powder and shot). I can't cite a reference nor do I have direct experience with muzzle-loaded artillery, but I suspect once the guns were actually loaded, they normally stayed in that condition until fired (with a tampion in the muzzle to keep moisture out). I'm sure there were tools for removing the wadding, shot, and powder in case of a misfire, but this operation was (is) probably inherently dangerous. Hopefully someone else here has a good reference and can give a more accurate answer. HTH, Keith
  9. el cid

    MSW plastic invasion?

    Dive right in Channell! I’m a novice with wooden kits, but think a lot of the skills we pick up working in resin, plastic, and PE transfer over. I’m specifically thinking problem solving, kit mods and scratch building, attention to detail, and perhaps most importantly, patience and perseverance. I’ve followed your builds here and on the other site and am confident you have nothing to fear. Cheers, Keith
  10. I usually try to get the major components assembled and prepped before beginning to prime and paint. I haven't built a plastic sailing ship since I was a little kid (Revel Flying Cloud I think), but for modern ships I'll build the hull and add the deck so I can get good clean joints all around. I'll also assemble the various superstructure components and clean them up too. If there's a joint that will need to be cleaned, I'll attach superstructure pieces to the hull before painting everthing together, otherwise I paint the hull and superstructure pieces separately then assemble. I picked up a trick somewhere along the line whereby you spray your deck color first, then by spraying the hull and superstructure at a low angel (i.e. from below the deck level), you don't need to mask the decks. Just some touch up with a brush where there is slight overspray or paint "holidays." Very important...where you do paint parts before attaching, you have to scrape or sand the paint off of each surface where the parts meet. Remember, styrene cement (e.g. Testors liquid) is a solvent that "melts" the plastic parts together. Paint effectively prevents the chemical reaction from occurring. You're on the right track, thinking ahead and problem solving. Cheers, Keith
  11. Cement together, fix gap and any other flaws, prime and paint. I also tend to attach any other sub assemblies to the hull before painting, if feasible. HTH, Keith
  12. Bob, it looks like we were typing at the same time. I was trying to make similar points, but your response is articulated much better than mine. Cheers, Keith
  13. Couple of points re: "definitive" sources of info on rigging, especially running rigging. Unless there is photographic or other evidence for a specific vessel at a specific point in time (e.g. "as built"), all we can do is make reasonable, educated guesses as to the exact configuration. Often there are many different ways to perform a particular rigging task, and I suspect period sailors had their favorites (that were perhaps not well documented in the literature). Therefore rigging configurations may have changed with a vessel's captain, sailing master, or bosun, or just evolved over time. Also, maybe rigs varied based on materials and supplies (e.g. blocks, line of a particular size, etc) available at a particular point in time. I offer the example of main sheet controls for a modern recreational sailboat (see https://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3901). All are "correct" and will serve the purpose, but pick a popular boat model that's been around for any length of time and I'll bet you can find a variety of different main sheet configurations, modified per each owner's preference. For modeling, I use the available resources to help understand the purpose of a particular rigging system and then try to think like a sailor when deciding on which technique makes the most sense (considering of course general time period and nationality). FWIW, Keith
  14. el cid

    When to use what glue?

    For joining styrene to styrene, I always use a liquid solvent like Testors. With the model parts joined together, you can use a small pointed brush or a pipette to apply the solvent to the joint. Capillary action will wick the solvent into the joint and effectively “melt” the parts together quite neatly. I typically use CA for attaching resin or photo etched parts. Thin CA will wick into joints neatly too. White glue can also be used for attaching photo etched parts, especially small-scale ship’s railings and such. And for gap gap filling I haven’t found anything better than Bondo Spot and Glazing putty. My oldest surviving models are 20+ years old and everything seems to be holding together. HTH, Keith
  15. I suspect the even-foot level of accuracy for the trunnion ring height was sufficient for ballistic calculations during the period, given the likely degree of precision in determining the other parameters (target range, speed or angular motion, target height, wind speed and direction, etc). Lots of other variables come into play (powder characteristics, powder temperature, projectile characteristics, bore condition, rounds fired, barometric pressure, etc. etc). All of these factors are precisely measured today but likely not considered or accurately measured prior to WW I. Cheers, Keith

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