Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Cary, North Carolina
  • Interests
    Plank on Frame Construction

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    NRG Member
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

359 profile views
  1. Hi aec: Glad you were able to connect with Alexey via your posting here on the forum. Now that Alexey has connected with you I am confident you'll find him prompt with any needed corrective action. My experience with purchase of equipment from him has always been very positive. Best Regards, Cliff
  2. Hi Dave: I'm located in Cary...count me in for a potential club...with the proviso that as a relative newbie to the shipbuilding hobby I am very much on the learning side of the scale.
  3. I h ave an old Floquil painting guide...it says wait a week for full paint cure, at which time Floquil will even hold up to its own solvent. This has always been the method I've followed when I need to apply a different finish over Floquil.
  4. First Resawing Adventure

    Greg, Can you tell if your boxwood that has stayed straight was quarter sawn? I'm particularly picky about wood choice, and I've found over the years that no matter what the species quarter sawn was the way to go for pieces requiring stability. The billets of Castello I'm cutting in the photos accompanying this thread are quartersawn straight grain... the Buxus piece I have is through the center of the log...I'm going to cut it in half, then turn 90 degrees so as to cut slabs that are quarter sawn....should work out I think. Interesting side note is that for planking the best bending wood is not quarter sawn but rather "flat sawn" which is cut perpendicular to quarter sawn wood. I've got some Holly for planking I'm planning on flat sawing when the time comes. Note this follows full size prototype modern woodworking practice for cutting wood to be bent without splitting. Of course riving is even better but I'm not about to start riving buxus! Sorry about my weak explanation....I suspect a web search of the terms will yield images that will be more useful than my description.
  5. First Resawing Adventure

    Hi Michael: I got some 24"-30" long billets of Castello and Swiss Pear from Gilmer Wood Company...they offer finished wood by the piece...I was able to get a few pieces 1.5"-2.25" thick. Looking just now they are out of stock of pieces of both, although I imagine they have rough boards they could cut from. I also picked up a billet of Buxus via the web...want to do some test cutting of that to see how the denser wood works. I avoid buying green lumber...did that in the past when I had a shop I could dry the wood in long term, but doing so without warpage involves more effort and technique than most realize...I allowed two years per inch of wood, and that assumes you can stack and sticker the wood with enough weight on top to control initial warping. Nowadays I'll work with wood that has been kiln dried and/or air cured by others...we don't use that much so the price is not prohibitive. So far I'm impressed with resawing and using the thickness sander...results as nice as wood purchased by the shipbuilding sources...a bit time consuming but results seem fine. And as you say with the choices of dealers limited these days doing it one's self has great advantage. Dave: You are right about all the sizes of wood for the Echo Cross Section fitting out kit...looking at the wood list there are 14 thicknesses of Castello called out...plus a half dozen more in Holly. I think cutting your own is the best way to go for scratchbuilding...provides all the flexibility needed.
  6. Hot air gun

    Just be careful with the heat, and keep the nozzle moving if you don't want scorched wood (or fingers)...Don't ask how I know about this.... I've got a commercial heat gun I've used for electronics and a wide variety of items...One thing that is very helpful is making a "cradle" to hold the heat gun in so you can have both hands for manipulating the part. I can't find mine in the shop just now so cannot post an image, but definitely helpful. Once you realize what a strong, localized heat source can do you'll find all sorts of uses!
  7. First Resawing Adventure

    Taking advantage of the week between the holidays by trying out my Byrnes thickness sander...making up a "kit" of Echo Cross Section fitting out wood from the Castello I recently cut over at the college craft center. I had allowed .030" oversize when resawing...did finish thickness sanding of four 12" pieces, two 11" pieces, and then one each of 10" and 8.5" stock (1:48 scale)...turns out I had plenty of rough cut wood to work from, even with the uneven cut from the shop blade. In the future I beleive I can start with .025" oversize and be fine. For today's activities, I started with 8 pieces, thinning them as a group on the rougher grit until I got close to each size...seemed to be a good practical way to work down multiple pieces at the same time. Anytime I've resawn wood warping has always been a concern....here I'll keep this freshly finish sanded stock under weight for a week or so to make certain everything stays in place. Over the next few days I'll make up the progressively thinner stock that makes up the Echo Cross Section fitting out kit. I'll also be making up some pear to have for contrasting wood as I get into the build.
  8. Another noob

    Welcome to model ship world...don’t be shy about asking if you get stuck...you’ll find many helpful people here in the forum.
  9. Hello gentleman,,, I am a new member ,,

    Welcome!...you’ll find many helpful folks here.
  10. Thanks for posting this latest set of images Greg...Just last night I was studying the PE I recently received from you, checking the etch with the pages in TFFM...these images helped "close the gap" in my understanding of how the chain pump goes together...I can already see how these virtual images will be a great reference during the overall ship build!
  11. Derek: You've asked a loaded question when you asked about airbrushes...I'm confident you'll receive many different answers. The correct choice of airbrush, of course, is the one that works for you....I'm not trying to be funny with that comment, it is just that I have observed over the past 4 decades that different airbrushes seem to work differently in each hand...and there are many trade offs. I am a Paasche snob...bought my first one in 1975 and am still using it along with a handful of other Paasche models, several in duplicate picked up along the way. My first one is sort of like the axe that has had a couple of head replacements and several new handles. Part of what I love about Paasche airbrushes is that parts obtained today can work in my first airbrush...that is huge as these are just tools and as such will need replacement parts over time. I use a nitrogen tank as air source...again the way I started and was taught back in my graphic arts days....absolutely zero humidity issues which can be a factor during our North Carolina summers. As for paint, I'm still a fan of solvent based paints...have a stash of Floquil paints I still use and am starting to roll over to Scalecoat as my colors run out. Someday I may master water based paints, but for the past 20 years I've tried I cannot achieve the same quality of finish. Since I use solvent based paints, I have a paint booth in my shop that exits to the outside after filtering.
  12. Newby with grand plans

    Hello Keith, and welcome to the forum!...you'll find lots of folks here ready to help answer any questions. I found this thread very useful when I joined the model shipbuilding community earlier this year...helped guide me with my personal path to getting started in the hobby:
  13. What brand of #11 blades do you use

    After decades of using various brands of #11 hobby blades, I finally tried surgical blades and discovered to my delight they are sharper, stronger and stay sharp longer...I've shifted to surgical #11 blades and holders for most of my hobby work now.
  14. Band or Scroll saw

    Michael, if you have the space in your shop for the large bandsaw it will be ideal for resawing lumber even if you end up using a scroll saw for cutting frame and other parts. If I had the space for a large bandsaw I'd absolutely have one.
  15. Druxey: Are you able to split the Bamboo thin enough to start drawing through holes such as in Jim Byrnes' drawplate, or do you start with a larger drawplate?

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.


Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research