Jump to content

clifforddward

Members
  • Content count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About clifforddward

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cary, North Carolina
  • Interests
    Plank on Frame Construction

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    NRG Member

Recent Profile Visitors

271 profile views
  1. Today's progress. I was amazed how strong the main rail was being made from three pieces to take best advantage of strength of the grain. And thinning it down was quite easy with the miniature hand plane I've had in my tool box since the 80's. All of this ship construction along the lines of prototype practice is new territory for me...must say I'm thoroughly enjoying the techniques and love the craftsmanship history lesson I'm getting along the way.
  2. Never mind the eating...pity the poor cooks! Having cooked using a gimbal stove on a 38 ft sailboat in moderately stormy seas I can attest to the difficult nature of keeping eggs in the pan and stew in the pot....and no, I wasn't interested in eating once the food was ready!
  3. Finally getting started on my homework for the workshop....Got the knee of the head piece tapered and glued down to the backing board...Will get the bow former pieces glued in tonight, then give the assembly a rest overnight before attaching the bow skin tomorrow. Between working on this homework and reading about these head pieces in several books from my library as my bedside reading this week, I believe I'm beginning to get a feel for the various pieces that make up the headwork on these 18th century ships.... Looking forward to the workshop so I can develop a full understanding...
  4. just what is a "scratch built model"?

    I noted with interest the Mystic Seaport Museum Shop portion of the article Dave posted the link to...particularly the section concerning Rigging. In that section the document indicates "LINEN ONLY!" in all caps and with an exclamation point...the only place in the document using that double emphasis punctuation. Realizing the document is somewhat dated, has there been any movement within the model ship museum community regarding the use of synthetics or blends? I'm interested to know as I recently obtained a rope making machine with an eye toward learning to make rope for my own modeling use. If the current museum quality criteria is still emphatically leaning toward the use of linen only as a rope making material, I'll plan my rope making development experiments accordingly. Would be interested to hear latest leanings from the museum community...
  5. What grit for disc sander?

    Thanks Greg...180 grit is what I settled on from earlier respondents....actually ordered a disc sander from Jim Byrnes earlier today. My old Dremel disc/belt sander had served me well over the years but was always difficult to do fine work with so I finally passed it along and upgraded this important sanding tool on my workbench.
  6. What grit for disc sander?

    Thanks folks, exactly the type of information I was looking for. While there's lots of variety in exactly what grit people are using, it does seem that most are using a medium grit for general forming on the disc sander then a fine grit for finishing, primarily via hand sanding. This seems to make a lot of sense...I'll plan my tool selection and actions accordingly.
  7. What grit do folks use in their disc sanders? I see Jim Byrnes sells 80, 180, and 320 grits on his site for use with his disc sander....seems to me that 80 grit might be more aggressive than needed for forming small pieces, and the 320 grit while great for a nice finish could have a tendency to burn if one is not careful. That would make 180 the obvious choice. Am I right on this, or am I missing something? In reality it seems the best option would be to have more than one grit available, does anybody have multiple disc sanders in their shop or do you have multiple plates and switch grits depending on the work at hand? Looking for some real and practical experience here from folks who have successfully addressed this issue...
  8. Hi Joe: Sorry we'll miss meeting but as you say there is always next year. Sounds like your crew has an exciting trip with the delivery of the Langley model to the Smithsonian...quite an accomplishment to have that institution accept objects these days. The room share is still available if there is someone wanting to attend the conference and split room costs... All the best, Cliff
  9. Good choice Joe....I look forward to hearing more on your results once you have received the mill and had an opportunity to try it out.
  10. Hello from Perth, Western Australia

    Welcome to Model Ship World Peter!...You'll find many helpful folks here on the forum and are likely to discover a ship modeler or two right around the corner from you. Look forward to hearing of the progress on your builds.
  11. Glad to hear all has worked out for you Doug...I look forward to hearing of your progress using the Sherline mill. I've had several machining friends who tried to venture into CNC with small mills who got overwhelmed by the programming side of things...sounds like you will have success since you already have that background, picking up the machining skill set is an easily achievable proposition.
  12. Make certain the stepper motors have dual shafts (out each end) so you'll be able to attach handles for manual operation...otherwise you'll have no manual option. I personally would be concerned about buying 7 year old computer technology to drive it. As Mark mentioned above, CNC is really for repetitive operations....not one off. But on the Sherline I think some parts of the CNC version have upgrades over the manual version, at least on new machines...if same held true for older machines it might mean a better machine for you. Remember you'll spend as much in tooling as the base machine..so it will be a real plus to receive a lot of tooling accessories with the machine. Good Luck!
  13. Milling Lumber for my upcoming POF projects...

    Good point Mark...I forgot to mention I'll be modeling in 1:48...hoping I can gain an understanding of what is a good mix of thicknesses in the different types of wood (Boxwood/Swiss Pear/Holly) I'll be using the table saw to resaw 8/4 and 12/4 lumber into 2-3" wide slabs that will end up 2-3" wide x approximately 24" long x ? thickness. I should be able to cut as thin as 1/8" for certain; probably even 3/32". After that I can use a thickness sander to reduce further as needed. I'll use my Byrnes saw to cut the resawn slabs into final dimensional stock.
  14. So here's an "as received" photo of the cast-off table saw a friend recently gave to me. An older Delta 10" contractor saw in functional condition with a nice cast table, extensions on both sides, and a decent fence...but it is rough as a cob. I'll be renovating this one to use for resawing lumber for my upcoming POF projects...I've got a 24T thin kerf blade on order, and the white zero clearance insert that will replace the red original will be a key component of the rebuild. Looking at the gap in the red stock unit makes it easy to see why standard table saws without alteration are not acceptable for making thin boards. I've done a good bit of woodworking over the years, and restored several old machines, so I'm pretty confident I can pull this off.... The piece of wood in the background is a 4' length of 8/4 basswood....I picked it up for $15 at the local woodworking store to use for testing as I get this machine together....don't want to use expensive Boxwood until I get the table saw "dialed in". I would like to ask a question of the group....My plan is to obtain Boxwood (for making frames), Swiss Pear (for planking and other furniture on the ship), and Holly (for decking). I'll start with 8/4 or 12/4 lumber, and will be slicing off slabs that are 2" to 3" wide....but what thicknesses to resaw my lumber to? I've looked at the lumber list for the Galley Washington here on the site as a starting point, but it only provides dimensions, not what the various thicknesses will be used for. (BTW, I'm modeling in 1:48 scale) I think I'll need some boxwood 1/4" for frames, but perhaps some thicker and thinner boxwood as well? If I'm using pear for planking and other misc items above and below deck, I suppose I'll need mostly a thickness for planking, but a variety of thickness for other items? And for making the decking out of holly, what thickness for that? I know I'll be able to use my thickness sander to finalize the wood, but where to start? If anyone has a material list for something like a Swan class ship in 1:48 scale by type of wood and size I would be most appreciative.... Any guidance would be most welcome....
  15. HaHa!....I've been back from California for a week, but just now seeing these postings....Coxswain, funny you mentioned the Sugar Pine Railroad...it was a must-do for all of us as we love old steam trains (My other hobby is making live steam locomotive to operate in the garden)...they have the largest 3 ft gauge Shay ever built operating on that line, and we've been wanting to see it operate for some years. The wife enjoys "chuck wagon dinners", so we did the dinner and night train....a fun experience. And I've also been up to Cass, West Virginia to ride behind the logging locomotives there. When I was last there (about 20 years ago) they operated a trio of loggers, Shays, a Heisler, and a Climax locomotive....but I won't hyjack this thread by diverting into a steam locomotive discussion.... Only thing we missed at Yosemite was the Giant Sequoias at Mariposa Grove...that section of Yosemite was closed for renovation until the fall. We did go view the Sequoia trees at Tuolumne Grove on the north side of the park...there are about 25 trees in that grove...it was awe inspiring being in close proximity to 2000 year old trees!
×