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clifforddward

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cary, North Carolina
  • Interests
    Plank on Frame Construction

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  1. Newby with grand plans

    Hello Keith, and welcome to the forum!...you'll find lots of folks here ready to help answer any questions. I found this thread very useful when I joined the model shipbuilding community earlier this year...helped guide me with my personal path to getting started in the hobby:
  2. What brand of #11 blades do you use

    After decades of using various brands of #11 hobby blades, I finally tried surgical blades and discovered to my delight they are sharper, stronger and stay sharp longer...I've shifted to surgical #11 blades and holders for most of my hobby work now.
  3. Band or Scroll saw

    Michael, if you have the space in your shop for the large bandsaw it will be ideal for resawing lumber even if you end up using a scroll saw for cutting frame and other parts. If I had the space for a large bandsaw I'd absolutely have one.
  4. Druxey: Are you able to split the Bamboo thin enough to start drawing through holes such as in Jim Byrnes' drawplate, or do you start with a larger drawplate?
  5. I asked my friend Yaeko (co-worker from my Japanese electronics company days) to help me translate and better understand several sections of the video...here are her comments: SURUGA bamboo lattice ware Question 1) ...they are soaking the bamboo at 6:55 mark....how long do they soak the bamboo and what is the purpose?....does the video say? →Soak one day (24hrs). It softens the bamboo and makes easier to make detail process Question #2) ...at 7:54 there appears to be a description of layers of bamboo, does it say to use the middle layer or just what? →The process is called へぐHEGU...Use only the outer/surface side. As you can see, the fiber is dense in the outer skin area. It’s stronger and supple. Question #3) ....at 8:02 she is sitting on the floor pulling the bamboo strips through a shaving tool....does the video say the name of this tool? I want to make something like this or search for it from Japan but I do not know what it is called, either Japanese or English name. →The tool is called Sendai せん台....to make the thickness even down to 1.5mm. I googled it in Japanese but I didn’t find it. https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.surugaya.com/sensuji/gihou/&prev=search The research continues...
  6. I too was impressed by this video...I've actually reached out to a domestic bamboo rod culm supplier of Tonkin bamboo and have some pieces in route to me along with a Bamboo splitting knife. I also picked up several types of bamboo kitchen skewers from my local kitchen store...for testing against the Tonkin bamboo. There are a couple of things I need to work out in my mind, and a couple of tools to make....one tool to make is the "thinning plane" device, and one nagging issue to sort out is details surrounding the soaking of the bamboo culms at the beginning of the process. I used to work for a Japanese electronics firm, so I'll contact some of my old co-workers to get that part of the video translated. My guess is the soaking helps with the initial splitting and cutting process, but need to find out how long and any other pertinent details. In the end I hope to work out a superior means of creating high quality bamboo treenails.....maybe overkill, but we'll see... I'll report on my success (or failure) here on the forum.
  7. Voila!...homework finished...and not much time to spare. I'll start driving down from North Carolina after work on Wednesday, staying somewhere in route to arrive Thursday afternoon. Looking forward to meeting everyone and learning a lot!
  8. I'd second the decision for sewing machine oil....key properties that make it suitable for this application are: 1) Light in "weight" means it will penetrate bearings as needed. 2) Non drying formulas typically are used for sewing machine oils....this keeps them from "gumming up" mechanisms of sewing machines and also any other similar machine that does not see strong side loads (like a drill press). 3) Easy to obtain in small quantities. If you were asking about lubricating oil for the spindle of a milling machine then you'd need a different oil that provides ability to lubricate under presence of side load....so if you use your Proxxon drill press for milling operations then we'll need to discuss a different option...although in reality I'd suggest against using any drill press for milling as it will cause premature failure of the spindle bearings. This could be a really long discussion, but that's the crux of it....
  9. First Resawing Adventure

    Druxey Yep, probably a bit more resawn wood than I’ll need for the Echo fitting out kit😏 ...guess that means I’m need to plan a future build to use it on... LOL
  10. First Resawing Adventure

    Hi Joe There are a couple of Bandsaws in the shop...this one is about a 16” model and has a rip type blade with about 5-6 teeth per inch with width being about 5/8”. The blade has a few flaws I could see that created irregularity in some pieces...I’m looking forward to seeing if the thickness sander cleans things up. I suspect the workshop would allow me to donate a new blade and I may consider that in the future... although I doubt they would allow a wider resaw blade as this bandsaw sees general use by many students and would not be dedicated to redrawing... such is the nature of shared shop equipment. So I am hoping the slabs I sawed will clean up OK on the thickness sander...if so this will turn out to be a satisfactory solution. The bandsaw had pretty good guides with fairly well adjusted roller bearings...a heavy commercial looking bandsaw.
  11. First Resawing Adventure

    I don't have room for either a full size table saw or large bandsaw, so I took advantage of a program at our local university where alumni can pay a reasonable annual fee to gain access to the woodshop at the craft center on campus. This is a boon for my woodworking efforts as it is only a 20 minute drive from my home and while the equipment is not perfect it is fully workable for my needs. Last night I took a stab at first resawing efforts with some Castello, Holly, and Pear I had obtained to make lumber for my Echo Cross Section fitting out kit. All in all I was pretty pleased with the effort...the magnetic fence I picked up worked fine for resawing. I do think I'll add a couple more magnets to the fence...they are available separately from the manufacturer. In the photo grouping of resawn wood you'll notice a stack of basswood at the very back...I had picked up a piece of cheaper basswood for testing...this proved to be a wise move as I was able to develop my technique before cutting into the more expensive wood. I saved the holly to last as I wanted to make a number of thin strips for planking...this proved easy once the fence was properly set and technique was mastered. In the final photo I've taped bundles of the cut wood so it can acclimate to my home workshop before further processing....I'll be taking delivery of a thickness sander from Jim Byrnes during next week's NRG convention in Florida...I'll post further photos once I start thickness sanding of these pieces.
  12. Today's progress. I was amazed how strong the main rail was being made from three pieces to take best advantage of strength of the grain. And thinning it down was quite easy with the miniature hand plane I've had in my tool box since the 80's. All of this ship construction along the lines of prototype practice is new territory for me...must say I'm thoroughly enjoying the techniques and love the craftsmanship history lesson I'm getting along the way.
  13. Never mind the eating...pity the poor cooks! Having cooked using a gimbal stove on a 38 ft sailboat in moderately stormy seas I can attest to the difficult nature of keeping eggs in the pan and stew in the pot....and no, I wasn't interested in eating once the food was ready!
  14. Finally getting started on my homework for the workshop....Got the knee of the head piece tapered and glued down to the backing board...Will get the bow former pieces glued in tonight, then give the assembly a rest overnight before attaching the bow skin tomorrow. Between working on this homework and reading about these head pieces in several books from my library as my bedside reading this week, I believe I'm beginning to get a feel for the various pieces that make up the headwork on these 18th century ships.... Looking forward to the workshop so I can develop a full understanding...
  15. just what is a "scratch built model"?

    I noted with interest the Mystic Seaport Museum Shop portion of the article Dave posted the link to...particularly the section concerning Rigging. In that section the document indicates "LINEN ONLY!" in all caps and with an exclamation point...the only place in the document using that double emphasis punctuation. Realizing the document is somewhat dated, has there been any movement within the model ship museum community regarding the use of synthetics or blends? I'm interested to know as I recently obtained a rope making machine with an eye toward learning to make rope for my own modeling use. If the current museum quality criteria is still emphatically leaning toward the use of linen only as a rope making material, I'll plan my rope making development experiments accordingly. Would be interested to hear latest leanings from the museum community...
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