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clifforddward

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Everything posted by clifforddward

  1. Thank you for your kind words Greg...I must say that some of my best ship modeling memories come from the convention down in Tampa a few years ago and the time spent with you and all of the other ship modelers....great bunch of folks all willing to provide answers and information willingly...I am still using many of the "tips and tricks" I acquired during that convention. Best Regards, Cliff
  2. SOLD....Quantity of 24 brass cannon castings with English herald decoration on top. 42mm long. The English herald decoration on top of cannon is quite detailed and the casting quality is excellent. Purchased for a 1:48 scale project that didn't happen. Includes trunnion holders as seen in photo. $75 postpaid within USA which is a good bit less than they cost when I purchased them 6 years ago from a fellow in Russia that does custom castings. Cliff Ward Cary, North Carolina clifforddward2@gmail.com
  3. Jim: I'll echo the comments made by Bill above...I purchased my Cameron Drill Press 42 years ago and find it one of my most treasured pieces of kit in the workshop...probably overkill for 90% of wood parts in shipbuilding, but for that remaining 10% of the jobs that can benefit from a high quality tool it is priceless. I have been able to obtain any spare part needed directly from the manufacturer although spares are not needed often as I have kept mine properly lubricated over the years. I now also have a Sherline mill that could be used for drilling of fine holes, but the Cameron Drill press is still my go-to tool. I'd say $450-600 would be a typical used price for one in good shape that has not been abused. Best Regards, Cliff
  4. Kurt's comments about airbrushes in general is spot on. I am confident his preferred Badger lineup works well. To be avoided at all costs is any discount "no name" offering...they will fail for certain in a short time with no hope to repair. I myself started using Paasche airbrushes back in 1975....important to me has been ongoing availability of parts...I have both single action Pasche "H" airbrushes as well as double action "V" and "VL" Paasche airbrushes. They are my main roster of daily users although the newer Paasche "Talon" has a lot going for it. There are more precise and more expensive airbrushes, but for my use I have found the Paasche line to be solid performers and rugged over time. While I now own nearly a dozen Paasche airbrushes, one of my favorite "go to" units is the first one I bought...it is somewhat like the proverbial axe that has had three new heads and four new handles over the years...but the basic body and works of the airbrush is still the same. When using newer acrylic paints like Vallejo my airbrush of choice has become the newer Paasche Talon...it seems to handle the thicker acrylic paints easier. I know air source is a whole different discussion, and I don't want to derail this thread, but for what it's worth I use a Co2 tank....one refill lasts me several months, and with the humidity here in North Carolina I prefer to work with the Co2 as propellant so I don't have any of the typical problems associated with humidity. Others will find air compressors work well for them, but I started with a Co2 tank and have had zero problems...beside, since it is silent I can airbrush late into the night without disturbing the Mrs.
  5. SOLD---For sale is a group of Domanoff rope making and rigging tools...I bought these a couple of years ago but due to change in modeling direction never did anything with them...tools are new and still in shrink wrap as received from Domanoff. Group consists of: 1) Ropewalk machine "PROSAK" 3.0 2) Ropewalk "Planetary" 3.0 3) Serving Machine 2.1 4) Power Option for Serving Machine 5) Two Power supplies for above tools. 6) Instruction booklets for all plus DVD with instructions, videos, and more. Cost for current version of this group cost about $500....I'll sell everything noted above for $280 postpaid USA. International purchasers welcomed with additional shipping added for delivery to your destination. Cliff Ward Cary, North Carolina
  6. SOLD: Byrnes Ropewalk machine...complete with machine, instructions for use and all accessories for different sized rope...also includes parts to make both three and four laid ropes...plus spares. See photos for details. Offered @ $265 plus shipping.
  7. Model Shipways kit for sale...New-in-Box, never started: SOLD 1) Model Shipways #1457... 18th Century Longboat Kit...1/48th Scale...$40 postpaid USA via FedEx Ground shipment. Please note I will be selling a number of shipbuilding related items from my workshop in the coming days, including tools and difficult to find modeling books...a result of my realizing my modeling passion is live steam model railroading. Stay tuned for some great stuff that I hope will be helpful to those with a passion for shipbuilding. Best Regards, Cliff
  8. My vote is for dull blade and perhaps wrong type of blade...if using a rip type blade for a crosscutting operation rough cuts will be the result.
  9. My Knew Concepts fret saw has become a "go to" tool for coping and fine cutting work...I never realized how easy coping cuts could be...I wrestled for years with various fret saws...this one is the real deal and worth every penny for quality work!
  10. I've had personal experience purchasing buxus (boxwood) from Rare Woods....wonderful wood and the folks at Rare Woods are a great bunch to deal with...I wholeheartedly recommend them.
  11. As others have said there may need to be some clarification of the desired small hole size in order to establish a "correct" answer....including what is the definition of "small". For creating holes with #60 or smaller drill bits, particularly as one approaches bits smaller than #70, there is no better drill press than the Cameron Micro Drill Press. Cameron is a California based company and their drill presses seem frightfully expensive when first considered, but the spindles run very true and I can regularly drill #80 sized holes without any worry of breaking a bit. Yes, there are a number of small drill press manufacturers but the Cameron (formerly Treat) Drill Press is the gold standard... I bought mine about 35 years ago and after I got over the "pain" of the initial cost, I've enjoyed worry free drilling ever since. One of those "buy it and forget it" type of purchases to advance one's skill set...
  12. More important perhaps that cutting fluid is the need for tools to be absolutely sharp! Rake angle can also be a factor...less is better but only if the tool is dead sharp. And small cuts....
  13. I'm impressed with the speed of your build Toni...I'm still trying to get time between work and family commitments to get my keel laid...seeing your progress I'm beginning to think I have excuses rather than reasons for not advancing my own build!...must remedy that in the coming weeks
  14. Dave, thank you for the mention about the usefulness of the NMM plans for Echo being helpful during the cross section build. I am just beginning my Echo Cross Section build, and had planned on waiting to order the NMM plans until after my cross section was complete. I'll re-think that decision and go ahead and order the plans now to have them for assistance during the Cross Section build...if nothing else having them ready at hand will help me understand how to read the old plans...seems good practice to me for a full frame build. Best Regards, Cliff
  15. Hi aec: Glad you were able to connect with Alexey via your posting here on the forum. Now that Alexey has connected with you I am confident you'll find him prompt with any needed corrective action. My experience with purchase of equipment from him has always been very positive. Best Regards, Cliff
  16. I h ave an old Floquil painting guide...it says wait a week for full paint cure, at which time Floquil will even hold up to its own solvent. This has always been the method I've followed when I need to apply a different finish over Floquil.
  17. Greg, Can you tell if your boxwood that has stayed straight was quarter sawn? I'm particularly picky about wood choice, and I've found over the years that no matter what the species quarter sawn was the way to go for pieces requiring stability. The billets of Castello I'm cutting in the photos accompanying this thread are quartersawn straight grain... the Buxus piece I have is through the center of the log...I'm going to cut it in half, then turn 90 degrees so as to cut slabs that are quarter sawn....should work out I think. Interesting side note is that for planking the best bending wood is not quarter sawn but rather "flat sawn" which is cut perpendicular to quarter sawn wood. I've got some Holly for planking I'm planning on flat sawing when the time comes. Note this follows full size prototype modern woodworking practice for cutting wood to be bent without splitting. Of course riving is even better but I'm not about to start riving buxus! Sorry about my weak explanation....I suspect a web search of the terms will yield images that will be more useful than my description.
  18. Hi Michael: I got some 24"-30" long billets of Castello and Swiss Pear from Gilmer Wood Company...they offer finished wood by the piece...I was able to get a few pieces 1.5"-2.25" thick. Looking just now they are out of stock of pieces of both, although I imagine they have rough boards they could cut from. I also picked up a billet of Buxus via the web...want to do some test cutting of that to see how the denser wood works. I avoid buying green lumber...did that in the past when I had a shop I could dry the wood in long term, but doing so without warpage involves more effort and technique than most realize...I allowed two years per inch of wood, and that assumes you can stack and sticker the wood with enough weight on top to control initial warping. Nowadays I'll work with wood that has been kiln dried and/or air cured by others...we don't use that much so the price is not prohibitive. So far I'm impressed with resawing and using the thickness sander...results as nice as wood purchased by the shipbuilding sources...a bit time consuming but results seem fine. And as you say with the choices of dealers limited these days doing it one's self has great advantage. Dave: You are right about all the sizes of wood for the Echo Cross Section fitting out kit...looking at the wood list there are 14 thicknesses of Castello called out...plus a half dozen more in Holly. I think cutting your own is the best way to go for scratchbuilding...provides all the flexibility needed.
  19. Just be careful with the heat, and keep the nozzle moving if you don't want scorched wood (or fingers)...Don't ask how I know about this.... I've got a commercial heat gun I've used for electronics and a wide variety of items...One thing that is very helpful is making a "cradle" to hold the heat gun in so you can have both hands for manipulating the part. I can't find mine in the shop just now so cannot post an image, but definitely helpful. Once you realize what a strong, localized heat source can do you'll find all sorts of uses!
  20. Taking advantage of the week between the holidays by trying out my Byrnes thickness sander...making up a "kit" of Echo Cross Section fitting out wood from the Castello I recently cut over at the college craft center. I had allowed .030" oversize when resawing...did finish thickness sanding of four 12" pieces, two 11" pieces, and then one each of 10" and 8.5" stock (1:48 scale)...turns out I had plenty of rough cut wood to work from, even with the uneven cut from the shop blade. In the future I beleive I can start with .025" oversize and be fine. For today's activities, I started with 8 pieces, thinning them as a group on the rougher grit until I got close to each size...seemed to be a good practical way to work down multiple pieces at the same time. Anytime I've resawn wood warping has always been a concern....here I'll keep this freshly finish sanded stock under weight for a week or so to make certain everything stays in place. Over the next few days I'll make up the progressively thinner stock that makes up the Echo Cross Section fitting out kit. I'll also be making up some pear to have for contrasting wood as I get into the build.
  21. Look forward to hearing how you solve this Dave, I’ll be there myself as my Echo criss section progresses.
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