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RPaul

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  1. BRASS WIRE OFF RIOJA BOTTLES Not sure if it's available globally, but a lot of Spanish red wine comes in bottles with brass wire netting (to use the word in a broad sense). The wire can be easily untangled, straightened, and used for things like rigging blocks etc., or anywhere else where very thin wire is needed. The only problem is, there's literally yards of it on each bottle, so it's not really an excuse to buy a bottle a day 'for the rigging'...
  2. Hi All, I'm working on BB Cutty Sark, and the kit has a couple of lifebelts (rings) hung from monkey poop rails. So, the question is, how were they hung, precisely? Some sort of metal hooks? Or tied by lengths of rope? Something else? Thanks in advance, Pavel
  3. Hi, Pavel

    Im my SC buildlog I spend a lot of time considering deck planking, how, with which wood, teshnique, colour etc etc. If you are interested, fell free to look at my log and find in index correspodending part of log

    Different question is - did I succeed in my attempts

    All the best

    Nenad 

    1. RPaul

      RPaul

      Thanks Nenad, I'll definitely take a look.

       

      Kind regards, 

      Pavel

  4. RPaul

    OcCre Dos Amigos - foresail

    Rigging actually ain't too bad... Instructions are reasonably clear (compared to others), and the issues I've had were more with the design, fundamentally... If you need any pics/tales of how I've done it, give me a shout. Pavel
  5. Cool, thanks. I saw it somewhere - can't remember where from the top of my head - that Fair Rosamond replaced Black Joke eventually. So, assuming that it means the same squadron, white ensign it is then. As an aside, it turns out there's much more info, including drawings, Admiralty records, historic accounts, older models, and other bits and bobs, for Fair Rosamond than there's for Dos Amigos. Makes me wonder why OcCre decided to use the latter name/flag. Pavel
  6. Thanks Essayons. As far as I understand, she was patrolling the seas around Cuba. Do you know which squadron would it put her In? Pavel
  7. Sorry if I'm being a bit daft, but I thought red ensign was a civil one, and the naval one was white? Thanks again, Pavel
  8. RPaul

    Hi from the north

    Hi Torstein, Hi from across the North Sea, and welcome to MSW I'm sure you'll like it here as much as I do - there are very few forums out there as friendly and helpful as this one. Pavel
  9. Hi All, It's a bit of a long story, but having just completed OcCre's Dos Amigos, I've realised that she's been a slaver until captured by the Brits in 1830, then put to service in the British Anti-Slavery Squadron. I mean, I knew that to begin with, but it took me a while to put two and two together and to figure out that if I fly the American flag out of the kit, it kind of means the model represents the time before the capture, i.e., when she was a slaver. Not being particularly keen on slavery, and given that it's a quick fix, I'd rather fly the British one, or appropriate multitude thereof. But what would it be? And where? Not sure a disclaimer is needed here, but just in case, to avoid causing any offence: I have no problems whatsoever flying an American flag; it's only the fact that it attributes the model to the darker period of the ship's history, which is easily avoidable. Many thanks in advance, Pavel
  10. Cool, thanks Russ, that answers it. Something to do on a Saturday night Pavel
  11. Hi All, Apologies in advance if it's a stupid question, but what would you do first on a cambered deck, would you fit the false deck onto the frame first, and then plank it, or plank and then fit? On a couple of previous builds I fitted and then planked, but with the current one, bigger and with more stuff on it than anything before, I'd be tempted to do planking first - there's more complexity, and it would be easier to prepare the deck 'offline' before putting it in. I mean, the false deck has already been fitted in terms of size and position, and it could be glued in already; so no further adjustment will be required with or without planking. My only concern (ignorance is bliss! ) is that if I plank it first, gaps between planks could open wide(r) when I camber the deck, or that some other dimensions might go astray. The camber isn't massive, but it's noticeable - the sides are going down by about 2 mm each, at about 15 cm width. Either of the ways are generally fine by me; I'm just trying to think which one is easier... without creating major problems further down the line. Thanks in advance, Pavel
  12. Found the answer to the PS above - the copy of the instructions on Billing's own Danish website has a page that isn't in my booklet (and not in a few copies available online), and it does say there that the triangle is, indeed, for the paint/varnish; not planking, though - so I was wrong thinking that a number can denote a finish of any kind. Another thing is that numbers in the booklet don't match with the ones used on the plans: e.g., 1, 12, and 17, that are used extensively on the hull on the plans, aren't on the list... Cornwall Model Boats' site has BB's paints, though, and their numbers seem to match the plans (1 - white, 17 - clear gloss etc.). Pavel
  13. O wow, thanks guys, what a lot of help! OK, so definitely planking, and as Wefalck suggests, framing around deck fittings... Actually quite excited about it None of the parts are printed - so must be a newer kit, but that's not a problem, I'm reasonably confident I can handle it. I'm pretty sure now mahogany in the kit is for the deck and superstructure planking; there's no direct indication of it, but plans have triangular signs with numbers on them pointing at various parts - I reckon it's for different finishes (apologies if it's something obvious, but I am still new to it, so discovering obvious stuff); the same no. 17 is pointing at the deck and bits that are more visibly planked with mahogany on pictures (other numbers also refer to painted bits). I've also seen some build pictures out there with fairly dark decks. Having seen the real Cutty's pics (thanks NenadM, the grating one really nails the question on the head), though, I'm really inclined to go for something much lighter (thanks Popeye for the Annegre suggestion, I'll take a look). Right, I'm off to look at the build logs... Thanks a lot again, it all really helps. Pavel PS Incidentally, is there a table somewhere indicating which finish numbers refer to what on Billing's plans? I've looked through the instructions and plans several times, couldn't find anything. Pictures aren't always clear, either.
  14. You know what, it might be just me being a bit duh. There are 3mm mahogany strips in the kit, in a quantity that seems to be enough for the deck and superstructure planking. So let me take my 'there's no wood for it in the kit' back and swap it 'is it the wood for the deck?'. The strips are on the parts list, but not numbered, just listed, so there's no precise indication what they are designated for. I looked through the plans and instructions, and it looks like there's nothing that could require that much mahogany strip other than the deck. I would expect something lighter in colour, but the picture on the box shows a little bit of foredeck that is quite dark; unfortunately, there are no full-view coulour pictures of the deck. Now, here's another potentially stupid question. On the first picture in my original post, you can see that planking has 'windows' in them where the deck fitted bits and bobs go. There's also a border around the edges of the main, quarter, and foredeck. Makes me wonder - is it just the way plans are drawn, for clarity, or is it really meant to leave unplanked spots? I'd really rather plank everything over, and glue things on top. Any thoughts on this one? Thanks, Pavel

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