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RPaul

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  1. Sorry if I'm being a bit daft, but I thought red ensign was a civil one, and the naval one was white? Thanks again, Pavel
  2. Hi Torstein, Hi from across the North Sea, and welcome to MSW I'm sure you'll like it here as much as I do - there are very few forums out there as friendly and helpful as this one. Pavel
  3. Hi All, It's a bit of a long story, but having just completed OcCre's Dos Amigos, I've realised that she's been a slaver until captured by the Brits in 1830, then put to service in the British Anti-Slavery Squadron. I mean, I knew that to begin with, but it took me a while to put two and two together and to figure out that if I fly the American flag out of the kit, it kind of means the model represents the time before the capture, i.e., when she was a slaver. Not being particularly keen on slavery, and given that it's a quick fix, I'd rather fly the British one, or appropriate multitude thereof. But what would it be? And where? Not sure a disclaimer is needed here, but just in case, to avoid causing any offence: I have no problems whatsoever flying an American flag; it's only the fact that it attributes the model to the darker period of the ship's history, which is easily avoidable. Many thanks in advance, Pavel
  4. Hi All, Apologies in advance if it's a stupid question, but what would you do first on a cambered deck, would you fit the false deck onto the frame first, and then plank it, or plank and then fit? On a couple of previous builds I fitted and then planked, but with the current one, bigger and with more stuff on it than anything before, I'd be tempted to do planking first - there's more complexity, and it would be easier to prepare the deck 'offline' before putting it in. I mean, the false deck has already been fitted in terms of size and position, and it could be glued in already; so no further adjustment will be required with or without planking. My only concern (ignorance is bliss! ) is that if I plank it first, gaps between planks could open wide(r) when I camber the deck, or that some other dimensions might go astray. The camber isn't massive, but it's noticeable - the sides are going down by about 2 mm each, at about 15 cm width. Either of the ways are generally fine by me; I'm just trying to think which one is easier... without creating major problems further down the line. Thanks in advance, Pavel
  5. Found the answer to the PS above - the copy of the instructions on Billing's own Danish website has a page that isn't in my booklet (and not in a few copies available online), and it does say there that the triangle is, indeed, for the paint/varnish; not planking, though - so I was wrong thinking that a number can denote a finish of any kind. Another thing is that numbers in the booklet don't match with the ones used on the plans: e.g., 1, 12, and 17, that are used extensively on the hull on the plans, aren't on the list... Cornwall Model Boats' site has BB's paints, though, and their numbers seem to match the plans (1 - white, 17 - clear gloss etc.). Pavel
  6. O wow, thanks guys, what a lot of help! OK, so definitely planking, and as Wefalck suggests, framing around deck fittings... Actually quite excited about it None of the parts are printed - so must be a newer kit, but that's not a problem, I'm reasonably confident I can handle it. I'm pretty sure now mahogany in the kit is for the deck and superstructure planking; there's no direct indication of it, but plans have triangular signs with numbers on them pointing at various parts - I reckon it's for different finishes (apologies if it's something obvious, but I am still new to it, so discovering obvious stuff); the same no. 17 is pointing at the deck and bits that are more visibly planked with mahogany on pictures (other numbers also refer to painted bits). I've also seen some build pictures out there with fairly dark decks. Having seen the real Cutty's pics (thanks NenadM, the grating one really nails the question on the head), though, I'm really inclined to go for something much lighter (thanks Popeye for the Annegre suggestion, I'll take a look). Right, I'm off to look at the build logs... Thanks a lot again, it all really helps. Pavel PS Incidentally, is there a table somewhere indicating which finish numbers refer to what on Billing's plans? I've looked through the instructions and plans several times, couldn't find anything. Pictures aren't always clear, either.
  7. You know what, it might be just me being a bit duh. There are 3mm mahogany strips in the kit, in a quantity that seems to be enough for the deck and superstructure planking. So let me take my 'there's no wood for it in the kit' back and swap it 'is it the wood for the deck?'. The strips are on the parts list, but not numbered, just listed, so there's no precise indication what they are designated for. I looked through the plans and instructions, and it looks like there's nothing that could require that much mahogany strip other than the deck. I would expect something lighter in colour, but the picture on the box shows a little bit of foredeck that is quite dark; unfortunately, there are no full-view coulour pictures of the deck. Now, here's another potentially stupid question. On the first picture in my original post, you can see that planking has 'windows' in them where the deck fitted bits and bobs go. There's also a border around the edges of the main, quarter, and foredeck. Makes me wonder - is it just the way plans are drawn, for clarity, or is it really meant to leave unplanked spots? I'd really rather plank everything over, and glue things on top. Any thoughts on this one? Thanks, Pavel
  8. Hi All, I've made a start on BB Cutty Sark, and am close to fitting the deck in place. The plans/instructions don't mention deck planking, and there's no wood for it in the kit. I am assuming it's implied that one just draws caulking lines on the deck as is? Generally not a problem, but it's plain ply, so I'm thinking - would it look realistic enough? My preferred way would be to get some wood strip in, something like lime or maple, and plank it. Then caulking etc. It probably won't take me much longer to do it than it would to do a good job with drawing lines; the expense is likely to be tolerable too. So are there any reasons I might not want to do it? And another question is about a part I've highlighted on the second picture. What is it? It looks like some sort of grating for the helmsman to stand on - it's right in front of the wheel on the quarterdeck. There's no part number or any mention of it in the instructions; am I right in assuming I should just draw it on the deck? Or is there a better way of doing it? Thanks in advance, Pavel
  9. Cool, thanks, that's what I was thinking of doing - that is, cutting a tail very short and then adding coils made on a jig. On the last build I honestly coiled long tails in situ... Managed somehow, but I can tell you, honesty is not always a good thing
  10. Hi All, When you're tying running rigging off on cleats, pegs etc., how long a tail do you leave? In practical terms, I would think that, let's say, if a yard is fully up, the halyard will have quite a long tailing end - long enough to be still tied off when the yard is fully down. I would coil it and hang it somewhere. If something is fully out - garnets, buntlines etc. when the sails are deployed - I'd leave something like at least two feet's worth (well, scaled down), long enough to hold on to. But that's my uneducated guess. Looking at the pictures of my current build, they just left short-ish tails, I reckon about a foot's worth or so; no coils anywhere. Well, as I've mentioned in another thread, OcCre did say to me in an email that they care about the looks more than functional accuracy, so that could explain it. Looked at photos of real life decks on square-rigged ships; lots of coils hanging from pegs. So, coils then? If so, coils everywhere, or selectively as I've described? Thanks in advance, Pavel
  11. There we goo... Had to call out the ex - twice - to show me how to use the sewing machine... She was most entertained
  12. OcCre responded, which is already a pleasant surprise. Here's what they said: "In the case of the thread no. 273, you can knot it further back as I show you ne the attached image. Before placing the sails, you should check that they match the figures drawn on the plans. These same will help you identify each sail. In some cases, not all the sails are deployed at the same time, but to make the model more attractive, we place them all unfolded. We are talking about a model, (a scale reproduction of a ship model). The sails will never work. What we try is to stick to a design that is attractive. Surely, you must adjust some pieces and place them in the model as you can, always clear, following the instructions." So, tie the sheet as far back as you want (and what about whatever it is that's supposed to be there already?), and if things are functionally/historically inaccurate, it's because they look pretty. Interestingly enough, the website says "We take care of every last detail, so that our kit models can offer a design that is true to life". Anyway. Mustn't grumble, I suppose. I'll just shorten the sail - looks like two inches off the foot will do it. As an aside, more issues and inaccuracies keep coming up...
  13. Hi Mark, Yep, that's what I'm thinking of. It's a bit of a bother, but working in the spirit of doing things right no matter the hassle, I reckon it's worth it. I'll wait for OcCre's response to see if this all has been done for a reason, but if not, I can't see any other options. It won't solve the issue with tying off the sheets on the foremost peg - I won't be able to trim the sail far enough to make the designated peg work in a conventional way. Now, this made me think; could it be that both the leeward and windward sheets are supposed to work at all times? I mean, usually I'd expect only the leeward one to be under load; but it would have to be tied off, or fed through a pulley, way further aft in order for it to work. But if both the windward and leeward sheets are tight, they would hold the clew in a desired position even if they are tied off level with it. I've seen something similar on mains on relatively modern boats, when the mainsheet is fed through two blocks on the sides, rather than one (or one system thereof) in the middle. I know I am trying to fit a round peg (proverbially) into a square hole here, but in principle, this would work I reckon - provided, of course, that the clew is at least a bit fore from the mainmast, and clear of the mainmast's pinrack and whatever is going on it. And it would need to be between the says, probably working as Frankie described. Don't know. What do you think? Well, funny you should say that That was exactly the reason why I started looking at OcCre's range - I've seen it a couple of times on forums, people saying that they are AL's spin off, and are probably better in areas AL were lacking... Well, that much is true, in the sense that their plans, although still a shambles, are better than AL's, which was my only gripe with my first two builds. The downer is that everything else is, ahem, more interesting. Thanks, Pavel
  14. Thanks Frankie. At the very least. Although I suspect the sail shape is not exactly right either - the foot is too long, the head is too short (it doesn't reach the top end of the gaff by quite a distance). Yet it matches what's on the sail diagrams, i.e., that's intended to be that way. Now, that's interesting, and would explain the stays (their ends have deadeyes with lanyards on them, so could be slackened/tightened). But the brace - you are right, they would get in the gaff's way regardless of whether the sail is between or outside the stays, so I am planning to put them up as high as I realistically can... or at least so that the gaff isn't impeded. You know what, my hunch is that they've changed the foresail in the kit, and didn't update everything else. If the foot was shorter by something like an inch and a half, it would be OK both with the pins and the mainsail. Having said that, why would they want to lengthen the foot of the foresail? Or change anything, for that matter? So, am I right in assuming that it was common practice to sail under both the fore-and-aft foresail and the square mainsail? I.e., it's not like it's only one or the other? Actually, having looked around, are any of them allowed a square main? According to venerable Wikipedia (and a quick sniff around the Internet - so must be true!), on a brigantine you get a square rigged foremast, and fore-and-aft main mast; on a topsail schooner, there's gaff rigged stuff at the bottom, and the topsails are square-rigged. Neither seem to say that you can have both square and fore/aft sails on the same mast at the same level - whereas on Dos Amigos both masts have a big square- and a big gaff-rigged sail roughly at the same position vertically. Getting back to my question about whether the square main and the gaff foresail were supposed to be used at the same time (incidentally, also coming out as a total ignoramus), could it be that the square sails were used on broad reach and running, and the gaff ones on beam reach/close haul? Thanks, Pavel
  15. Yep, I've googled 'brigantine schooner', as OcCre describe it, and although gaff-rigged foresails do come up, they seem to be in a minority. Emailed OcCre with all those questions, we'll see what they say. Pavel
  16. Thanks Henry. With the stays, well, at least that's some comfort in the sense that it's not me. I'll probably try to put the sail outside the stays, although by their design it's impossible - there are yard braces (see pic below) tied off to the stays, and they would get in the way of the sail. I will try to move the top end of the braces further up the stays, where there's no. 240 on the pic, unless someone tells me this isn't kosher for some technical or historic reason? The size of the sail - yep, having the foot shorter by an inch or so would solve it. I even suspected I managed to put up the sail upside down, but no, there's a seam where the reefing lines are supposed to be, and it's towards the foot, where it should be. Besides, their own photos show the clew going aft from the main mast; interestingly enough, that's not the same on the plans - there it's just about level with the main mast, and the sail shape looks different, too. To add to it, the head is too short, too - it's supposed to reach the end of the gaff, but it's half an inch off, which is why I thought of the upside down thing - although the gaff I made is exactly to plan... but if I flip the sail, apart from the reefing lines, the head will be an inch or so too long, so it's not that. The issue with the foresail getting in the way of the mainsail - well, now I know why the photos show the mainsail hoisted up a bit... And I suspect I will have the same issue with the foremast. So what would you advise with the sheets then? Having thought about it overnight, I am tempted to put cleats on the deck somewhere further aft. I'll be doing these sheets last thing, by the looks of it, so I'll figure out where exactly to put the cleats then. Or are there any better options, what do you think? As an aside, the big arrrgh goes to OcCre for the quality of the kit as a whole - really cheap and nasty ply; wrong quantities on wood, cord and even pegs (how hard is it to count them?); one metal part - bell support - came broken in two (how???) and the nice and shiny bronzed cannon has oxidized into dull patchy grey in two months; design issues like the one above (sadly, it's not the only one); inaccuracies and mismatches in plans/pictures/parts lists. It's only my third build - the other two were by AL - so I have little to compare it with, but although OcCre's plans are better than AL's as a whole (despite the fact some areas are so unclear, you spend ten times the time it takes to do a job figuring out how they'd meant you to do it, not from the techniques point of view, but in terms of what goes where etc.), the rest of the kit is far inferior, I'd say. Only putting it here in case if someone is trawling through the forum later on, thinking whether to go for an OcCre kit or not. Thanks, Pavel
  17. Hi All, I'm continuing my battle with OcCre's instructions for Dos Amigos, this time with the foresail. I've got a few questions; one 'how to', and a couple of 'what for', or 'why'. The 'how to' is about the foresail sheets. Basically, the clew is quite far aft, and it goes beyond the mainmast (first picture), but by the instructions, the sheets are supposed to be tied off to the first (fore) peg on the stern side pin rack (it's no. 273 on the second picture). This would effectively mean that the sheet is going fore from the clew - the peg is about an inch fore from it. Is it me, or does it really not make sense? Photos aren't much help, although on the best one available (third picture) it does seem that whatever is tied off at the first peg is not the foresail sheet - it's something that goes straight up, and the sheet is somewhere further aft. So what do I do with it? I could try to change the sequence of what is tied off to which peg - most of them are still available - and find a peg for the foresail sheet further aft, but I suspect it might mess up other rigging. Oh, and even when I figure out... If, let's say, the sail is on the port side, what do I do with the starboard sheet? It will have to go around the main mast, to the fore, and then what, tied off loosely to the corresponding peg? The 'whys'... As you can see on the third picture, the foresail goes between two stays (it's the same on pictures and instructions, so I am assuming this is the way it's intended, not my mistake). How's that supposed to work? The stays would restrict the sail's movement a lot, flatten the camber, and possibly take some additional sideways load. Is this how it's been done it real life? I can't claim I have any experience sailing gaff-rigged boats, but you wouldn't want either of that on a Bermudan rig. Another one is about the sheets and pegs again, but this time - why pegs? The sheet just going straight there, no pulleys or anything. Sorry if it sounds stupid, but even on a 40 ft. Bermudan yacht you wouldn't be working jib sheets by hand, although the jib would be what, half the area? And the last question is, since the foresail protrudes so far aft, it would get in the way of the mainsail if both are fully out, so it's either-or. Forgive me my ignorance, but does it mean they were not supposed to be used at the same time? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, RPaul
  18. Hi All, I'm plodding through OcCre's Dos Amigos, all's well generally, but now I'm about to start on the spars and rigging, and plans are a bit unclear. Lots of time goes into deciphering what's what, but in particular, I'm at a loss as to where the top ends of the shrouds are supposed to be tied off to. Apologies for the landlover's terminology, but... Say, the foremast. Three sections; six shrouds start at the bottom, and the aft two go all the way to the very top, no ratlines, and it's all straightforward. The fore four, however, the ones with ratlines, are supposed to lead somewhere to the end of the foremast's bottom section, and to be tied off to something under what the plan refers to as a 'top' - the flat, horizontal platform at the top of the bottom section. What, though? It can't be the mast - there are 'cheeks' (again, that's what the plan calls them) under the 'top', they will get in the way. There are no holes or anything else like that on the plan. I can, of course, adlib, and just drill four holes in the cheeks, and that'll solve it, but is there a right way? Any advice will be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance, Pavel
  19. Hi All, Just wanted to introduce myself and say hi. I'm Pavel, I am from Lancaster, England. New to the hobby - been sailing for a while and all that, plus messing around with Airfix, but about three months ago I got into wooden models, and got hooked. I always knew I'd love it. You can take a boy out of a boat, but you can't take a boat out of a boy. Not without serious surgery. So far, I've done AL's HMS Endeavour's Longboat and Virginia Schooner, and about halfway through OCCRE's Dos Amigos. Hoping to finish the latter by Xmas, and to get on with a proper long build. Just as an aside, I have to say I'm really glad to see such a community - I've trawled though the forum, and it's amazing how supportive and helpful the members are. Hope I'll fit in Looking forward to being part of it, Pavel
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