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  1. Nice work. How do you plan to handle the centerboard? It looks like it slides down to one side of the keel. Will you plank the hull first, then cut a hole for the centerboard? Or do you create the hole now and add the frames around it?
  2. Earlier in the year, when I visited the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, I purchased a copy of Chesapeake Bay Schooners by Quentin Snediker and Ann Jensen. It contains lots of historical information about these schooners, many pictures, and a handful of plans. It may be useful for this project of yours. I think "longhead" refers to how, at the bow of Chesapeake schooners, pungies, bugeyes, and skipjacks, the stem extends forward and narrows to a sharp point, with traditional painted trailboards integrated on either side.
  3. SardonicMeow

    Fokker Dr 1 by Mike Dowling

    I remember recently seeing a remarkable stop motion video of the building of this kit. Happily, I was able to find it again: Stop motion build of AL Fokker Dr. I by Tom Grigat Maybe it will even help with some of your assembly questions.
  4. SardonicMeow

    Fusion 360

    Isn't it just a free trial? Or is there a free for personal use option that I missed?
  5. SardonicMeow

    Fusion 360

    I have recently been trying some 3D modelling using Blender. I have had some decent success, but wonder how much better other tools might be. For hull modelling, the main challenge is fitting a surface to the various curves that the plans describe. Can Fusion 360 (or any other software, for that matter) do this, taking into account curves in multiple directions? In Blender, it's possible to create a surface from multiple curves, as long as every curve has the same number of control points. However, the connections between the curves are more or less straight. There is no way to use another set of curves, orthogonal to the first set, to "guide" the shape of the surface between. I don't know if that's just a limitation of Blender, or something no software can do.
  6. Here is an explanation of how I have mixed text and images in posts. I hope it's useful to you. First, I decide what pictures I want to include. Then, in a text editor (e.g. Notepad) I write the text of my post and make a note of where each picture will fit. I save the text file so I will be able to reproduce the post if needed. The contents of my text editor would look something like this: When I am ready to post my update, I go to my build log topic on the MSW site, scroll down to the bottom, and click on "Reply to this topic", then click "choose files" and select and upload all the pictures. There will be a thumbnail of each picture at the bottom. Next, I use cut & paste to paste the first section of text into the reply (only the text to be above the first picture). Then I click on the thumbnail of the first image. That inserts the picture at the current location. I am careful to always hit enter after inserting a picture, because otherwise the next text you enter will not start after the image. (Until you hit enter, the cursor will be at the right edge of the image and may be hard to see.) Then cut and paste the next section of text. When entering new text, make sure the cursor is at the far left or the text will not display below the image. Sometimes, when you click below the image, the cursor will be in the wrong place and you'll need to move it down. See below. After pasting in the next section of text, click on the next image to insert and hit enter. Repeat until the entire post is complete.
  7. I don't think it's too much of a problem. Use a small keyhole sawblade and remove the material marked in red in my picture. Then glue and clamp the end of the bulwark to the transom. Will that fix it?
  8. Welcome to MSW, Wallace. I recently the completed the same ship, so I'll be happy to give whatever help I can. Right off, I see a serious problem. You have attached the bulwarks backwards. The lower part should be forward and the higher part should be aft.
  9. Thanks, rony & nikbud. I'm not sure what's next. I have a few ideas, but a medium difficulty, better quality kit seems best to improve my skills first.
  10. Rigging was adjusted and tape was used to apply tension to the lines. With the lines secured in this way, a drop of CA glue was used to hold each line in place, and the excess material was cut off. Rope bundles were added at various points where lines were secured. Put a flag on her and she's done. Some shots of the completed model.
  11. At last everything is coming together. The first sail I attached was the jib. In the picture, you can also see how I pre-laid a number of rope coils around the masts. I hope that I can secure the lines from above in such a way that they appear to connect to the rope coils. The foresail and mainsail were attached to their respective gaffs. I realized that the brails could be run before the sails were attached to the ship, so I added those at this point. And the foresail and mainsail are in place. There are a number of small issues, but the worst is that the foot of the foresail is long enough that it goes aft of the mainmast, but the bar that that foresail sheets attach to is forward of the mainmast. My replacement sail is the same size as the kit-supplied sail, so it is a flaw of the kit.
  12. Nice modifications. I spent many hours yesterday struggling to run thread through the eyebolts on the deck, so your idea of adding fife rails / pin rails is definitely an improvement. Also, I'm in full agreement with your comment earlier about this kit. It feels less like a real ship and more like an abstraction of a ship.
  13. I made sails! I was a bit disappointed with the loose stitching and wobbly edges of the kit-provided sails, and wondered if I could do better. In the picture below, the originals are above and my replacements are below. I chose a sheer cotton / linen blend fabric. It was difficult to work with, particularly as the cut edges would fray easily. Using an idea from this article on the Lauck Street Shipyard site, I stretched the fabric over an old picture frame, then brushed on a coating of diluted white glue and allowed it to dry. The stiffened fabric was much easier to work with. After a lot of struggles with creating clean edges, I finally found success after acquiring a narrow rolled hem presser foot for the sewing machine. I created each sail by drawing its outline onto the fabric, then drawing a second line 1/4 inch out from each edge. (The narrow hem presser foot creates a hem of doubled fabric 1/8 inch in width.) I cut the fabric out along the 1/4 inch line, then folded and pressed it at the original line. By feeding the fabric with the fold always at the right edge of the entrance to the presser foot, as in the picture, I was able to get a perfect hem (usually) all the way around. The next challenge was sewing parallel seams across each sail. I wanted to avoiding leaving any marks on the fabric, and my wife suggested that I use tape as a guide. I tried using some Tamiya masking tape I had on hand, and by a happy coincidence, I discovered that the width of the tape (6mm) exactly matched the distance from the left edge of the standard sewing machine presser foot to the needle. The final results weren't perfect, but not too bad. In hindsight, I should have done the sewing with a darker thread, so that the seams would show up better.

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