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Steve D

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  1. All, I have made some progress towards repairing my error given all the great advice and after much deliberation. My solution was to mix up some watered-down PVA wood glue, suck it up into a pipette, and (not so) carefully apply it in, on, under and around the lifting planks. I then lifted some planking with a toothpick and got as much glue under there as possible. I then placed a sheet of waxed paper over the lot, and covered it with some scrap wood. The clamps I have don't have a deep enough "throat" to grip the centre pieces tightly, so I laid a couple of tongue depressors over them to hold it down athwartships (gee I love that kind of talk!). I then took some very strong neodymium magnets and held one underneath and applied another to the deck to hold the whole contraption in place tightly. I did this on the other tongue depressor, and finally sat a small heavy object on top to really weigh it down. I hope this works. I'll keep in touch. Sorry about the blurry photo, but I'm sure you can work out the process. Steve
  2. Thanks Hornet and shipaholic. As shipaholic states, the deck planks were cut so short because that was the length given in the instructions. Perhaps it is because they are a lower deck and might not be the "weather deck" (I hope so, then this "problem" will not be very visible in the end)[though I will know it's there]. I'll check out your build log shipaholic, and maybe I'll make one of my own (I have been taking photos).
  3. Ulises, It was of great interest to me. I'll read this thoroughly when I get to work. Thank you Sir. Steve
  4. You guys have been great. Excellent ideas, feedback, and general good vibes in helping out a newbie on his first build. I do have a lot of cut off plank bits and extra planks, and plywood offcuts so I'll do a bit of experimenting and see what works. Indeed Paul, this might eventually be covered up by launches and cutters mounted on the deck at a later stage, so I'm not too worried yet. Like I said, I'll experiment and see what happens. Thanks lot guys, you've helped me out and alleviated my fears and given me ideas.
  5. Thanks gents, I used contact cement, following the instructions provided. In the photo you can see some of the contact cement in the left of the photo directly on the deck where there is no planking (in preparation for the next section of decking to be assembled). The planks for this session were glued into place, then staggered, leaving blank portions of the deck with dried contact cement, possibly until the following week (or more in my case). The glue then needed to be re-applied, and it became a bit messy. I thought the white PVA glue might be a better choice to seat the planks down. The wax paper seems to be a good idea, I night do a trial run with some excess planks and spare bits of plywood to simulate what my situation is at the moment. The choice of the 100 part build was a hard one because as I said, buying it in 100 parts (at AUS$15.00 a part) made the model total cost AUS$1500, way more expensive than the usual Corel or Model Shipyard models out there, but their instructions seem to assume the builder is somewhat experienced, and only say that you must do "such-and-such", not fully detail how it should be accomplished. Any other suggestions?
  6. Hi. I have finally begun building wooden ship models after years of gathering tools, resources, watching and learning, practicing on plastic aircraft models etc. I have many models in my collection but opted to build the most expensive one to begin with. Crazy I know, but hear my reason why. My choice is the weekly part Endeavour from magazines from Newsagents. Because it came in weekly parts, it ended up being a very expensive model. BUT...It had comprehensive, step-by-step, fully illustrated build instructions. Because it was published weekly, some parts of the build required waiting for the next week's issue to continue, and therein lay my problem. The deck comes in several sections, and the instructions required you to place deck planks on that section, and have some overlay awaiting the next deck section. Now, I did wait till I had ALL the weekly parts, and COULD have continued on immediately, but I chose to compartmentalise the build into weekly build sessions for personal reasons. So the overhanging deck planks interspaced with empty decking areas that will have deck planks placed in the next issue or build session got a bit dry I suppose, and when gluing the next section of planks, the planks tended to "rise" up a bit and not sit flat. I hope the attached photo illustrates the planks sitting off the deck, and not quite glued down correctly. So that's my problem...how do I fix this? I thought perhaps I'd water down some white glue until it was very watery, suck it up into a syringe with a needle, then try to carefully squirt it under the lifting planks and place some kind of weight on it to help it "sit down" properly. Does any experienced ship builder have any other ideas? Any help will be gratefully received. I am really at a loss, and that solution seems like it might work, but I don't want to mess it up. Sure, I have enough planking (and better good quality stuff too) but I want to build this first model out of the box, no scratch building. Can anyone provide a solution? Any suggestions for a better way? Or helpful suggestions for my method. What sort of weight can I use that will not stick to the deck without damaging it? Can I just squirt on a thin layer of white glue and hope it will seep in under the planks? As I said, any help at all will be gratefully accepted. Thanks in advance Steve
  7. Harley, One method I have seen is to use a pin to wind the lines around and lay the line flat between two sheets of stiff plastic (similar to the plastic you might get covering the box in which a business shirt is displayed for sale). These sheets are cut down to about 1cm x 1cm and the line is slowly wrapped around using slightly diluted white glue to keep it stiff. Remove the plastic and the pin and you're done. I'm sure it will take some time for this technique to be learned, but as line is not all that expensive, and you'll need to make a few of them in all your models, it might pay to practice this a bit. Sorry I can't show you a diagram or photograph, and I hope you understand how this might work. If you picture it in your mind, you might be able to work it out, and even improve on it. Steve
  8. I saw a useful tip (here of course) for holding down planking on some awkward areas. Using the fold-back clips pictured in your first post, the keyhole-shaped spreaders of one clip are "cannibalised" to make two "hybrid" clips as shown in the accompanying photo. They are useful for holding a plank flat with the extra bit as the glue sets on the bulkhead whilst the main clip is holding onto the bulkhead (you'll have to picture this as I can't show you how it works in application, but I'm sure you get the idea). Handy to know. Steve
  9. Kevin, Thanks for the link. I'm sure there were some that were envious and now they may also enjoy this program. Steve
  10. If you have a particular interest in this vessel or this program, you might try chasing up a DVD of the show, or looking at the SBS website to see if they are showing it on line. "SBS On Demand" is showing on line after the broadcast. I don't know if this is free or if you are required to "join up" but it might pay to check that out. But I DID preface my post with "For those members lucky enough to live in Sydney". Steve
  11. For those members lucky enough to live in Sydney, SBS ONE is broadcasting "The Ghosts of the Mary Rose" at 0115 am on Monday morning (check your local guides if you live in a regional area, the times may alter). I have seen the show, recording it the last time it was broadcast. There is a little interesting information about the vessel and life on board. Discussion about the causes of her sinking is entered into. I found it quite interesting, but it may be a struggle to stay up that late for some members. Time to program your VCR/DVD/Hard drive recorder methinks. Steve
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