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cotrecerf

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Everything posted by cotrecerf

  1. you achieved very good results although working on some wood parts (judging from the pics) seem to be quite of poor quality (like cigar box soft wood) must have been very difficult...... A nice boat! greetings Joachim
  2. Hello Thukydides, thanks for your metriculous work; the sizes given for the breechings in your summarizing table are given in inches of circumference, aren't they? greetings Joachim
  3. Micha, you might have a look here on tons of figurines ( for Vikings you need to adapt to style): https://www.ebay.de/str/3drifter 3D-printed figurines on printing supports, unpainted greetings Joachim
  4. Mirabelle, thnaks for the pics. Interesting combination of anchor gears. I apologize for not having considered that as an expert you did your thorough study of all details of the vessel well before the actual build....kudos again. ;-)) Greeting Joachim
  5. Hey MIrabelle, very nice work on the ship and good looking smushroom anchor. In case you show (part of) the anchor chain, should it have stud links though? best regards and enjoy a sunny weekend in Glinde Joachim
  6. Hello George, I cannot contribute to your question of how the bowsprit was fitted to the stem resp. deck, but the pic here shows the dimensions of the bowsprit and other spars of the Bermuda sloop on plan LVII of af Chapman`s Architectura Navalis Mercatoria of 1763. The scale is given in Swedish, English and French feet. Maybe you are able to find the complete illustrated build log of a Bermuda sloop issued in Ships in Scale, if I remember right. Good luck Greetings
  7. I envy you your ample preesentation space for your superb models and the new workshop accommodating all your machines and tooling in one space and on the same level. Congratualations! salutazioni cordiali Joachim
  8. Christiano, I didn't mean to infringe on your artistic freedom in any way...of course follow your ideas! You're the master of your own ship.. Greetings Joachim
  9. Hello Cristiano, I refer to Allyaned's question, whether the hardware on hulls such as rudder pintles horseshoe brackets etc. were painted with white stuff as the hull was. Imho, these metal parts were always installed before the hull was payed with some stuff and nobody took the trouble of e.g. covering the metal parts or working meticulously not to touch the original colour of the parts or applying a layer of black on them later. These ships were fighting ships and nobody would waste time and effort in achieving "showlike" condition on parts below the water line.. Salutazioni Joachim
  10. Hello David, I have an ongoing POB scratch building project of the af Chapman English cutter based on af Chapman's plan. There I first cut the bulkheads without any bevel and placed then on their individual position according to plan with one face exactly meeting the line. From the 0 bulkhead the thickness of each bulkhead points forward to the bow resp. backwards to the stem. It is important to colour the true edge of each bulkhead and keep it untouched while sanding down to smooth the hull. Greetings Joachim
  11. Hello SilversaxMan, to keep brass shiny (after polishing and degreasing) apply ZAPON-lacquer either by spraying or dipping. It is quite thin fluid and so does not build up too heavily. Have a look at Wikipedia: Zaponlack Zaponlacke sind dünnflüssige, transparente Nitrolacke auf der Basis hochviskoser Cellulosenitrate (Kollodiumwolle), die in leicht flüchtigen Lösungsmitteln wie Amylacetat, Ethanol und Ethylacetat gelöst sind. Sie sind meist farblos, können aber auch Farbstoffe enthalten.[1] Sie dienen meist zum Oxidationsschutz (als Schutz gegen Anlaufen) von Metallen wie Messing, Bronze oder Silber. Zaponlacke sind ungeeignet für die Anwendung bei Eisen oder Stahl, da sie keine rostschützende Wirkung haben. Sie dienen daneben als Firnis sowie zum Lackieren von Holz, Glas und Leder. Der Vorgang des Behandelns mit Zaponlack wird zaponieren genannt. Zaponlacke können gesundheitsschädlich wirken und sind meistens leicht entzündlich. Ein ähnliches Produkt ist Nagellack. Sorry, no translation available. greetings and a happy year 2024 to you Joachim
  12. Hi Valeriy, may only fhe sound of popping champagne accompany your days in 2024! All the best to you. Joachim
  13. The white stuff question is troubling me too. Here's a paint and colour recommendation I've just found: JoTiKa Ltd. ~ Admiralty Paints, Matt White. (jotika-ltd.com) Looking at the original ship paintings shown above, I do not go for the yellowish hue of Vallejo RAL 9001 out of the bottle but give it a definite light white cream colour. But as said above, there is no reliable original and it's up to the modeller's eye. Joachim
  14. As for the rivetting: I came across the following on youtube in a very informative channel Blondiehacks where she shows the making of a tool for producing uniform rivetting on items of a steam locomotive:
  15. Never mind, it gives a good clue to the actual size of your superb model. Carry on! gretings Joachim
  16. This is what I bought from dictum.com a couple of years ago: www.dictum.com/de/europaeische-hoelzer-caa ;www.dictum.com/de/europaeische-hoelzer-caa/buchsbaum-sortiment-4-5-kg-520038 Present price offer: 54.00 € for 4.5 kg incl. VAT assortment of European Boxwood ; Buchsbaum-Sortiment, 4,5 kg. The rectangular piecves are like pen blanks and the wood chunks are not in the right dimensions for very large (long) parts as one-piece, but to make e.g. carved decorations for scale 1:48 or 1:50 it's fully ok. I do not know about shipment cost to the USA best regards Joachim
  17. On a few other than ship modelling projects (wood toys for grandchildren) I have recently used linseed oil varnish WITHOUT any desiccants in it. It can be applied with a brush (in narrow places) or with a rag on smooth larger surfaces. Removed excess oil after a while. It well penetrates into wood, accentuating its grain and needs 48 hrs to thoroughly dry creating a firm seal. I like to employ it because its food proof. Joachim
  18. What terrible news and so sad to learn that he passed away so early. I own some of his machines and really appreciate their fine execution and quality. Though I had only very little contact with Donna over the purchase process I send my condolences to her and the family. Once she decides to continue the business I hope to be in contact again. Joachim
  19. Hi Valeriy, as concerns Marine-Modellbau forum: I got a email confirming my registration there with mxy user-name and my password. I tried to access the forum right away; the access was denied again. I guess it is a dead site. best regards Joachim
  20. The round hole says: "Ventil-Ausguss nur BB (Backbord)" which means: Valve-Discharge only portside
  21. Hi Valeriy, I have just visited marine-modellbau forum and found the following: 1. You have to REGISTER there AND have to WAIT for their confirming email to the email-address you indicated BEFORE you can enter the forum. 2. There are 2 small tick boxes somewhat hidden in the text of their Terms and Conditions you have to agree to during registration process. These can be easily overlooked. So, right now I am waiting for said email confirmation......Just received: it says I will receives a second email in acouüple of days, when my reidtrating will have been manually checked. And: I can visit the forum as a GUEST, which I am going to check right now. Best regards Joachim
  22. Dear Valeriy, and again: thank you very much for your technology insight...a lot to learn and to keep in mind as a reference for own projects. I appreciate your adaptiveness to materials locally at hand as you are bringing me back from my tendency of applying technical "overkill". I am looking forward to this fine built. Best regards, greetings Joachim
  23. Best source are photos.....until AI entered the market. I feel a growing doubt in their reliability but hope that our hobby ist not prone to this technology.
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