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Jobbie

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About Jobbie

  • Birthday 02/01/1969

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    Newcastle, Australia

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  1. I’ve now completed the rigging for the lower yardarm on both masts. Both the foremast’s main and topsail braces run through blocks down along the main-stay. They get very close to each other but don’t rub on each other when rigging according to the plans. I don’t particularly like the way these port and starboard braces run through double blocks together above the windlass because their working load wouldn’t be parallel to the pulley’s axle. But I’ll leave it to match the plans as a reference for other builders of this kit. All the rigging except for the spirit-sail yard is now complete. Coils of rope need to be placed on the pin-rails where ropes are lashed and the anchors both need suspending on their cat-heads….then this project’s complete.
  2. Yes, I’m getting there. I’m simply loving this build. I’m impressed with your list of builds, too. I’m an avid plastic scale modeller, too. See “The scale model twins” on Facebook.
  3. The top four yardarm’s are now complete. I found no real issues with their rigging plans. However, I’ve relocated the main mast’s top-sail yard’s brace-tackle blocks from the aft bulwarks to the transom in order to hopefully avoid interference with the lower, larger cross-jack yard’s braces.
  4. The foremast’s topsail yard’s braces, as per the kit’s rigging plan. They’re shown running down along each side of the main-mast’s back-stay then through a double block before belaying at the fore-mast pin-rail.
  5. Oh, you’re absolutely correct. I’ll go back and amend my previous post. Thanks.
  6. There’s a rather confusing, not clearly described or drawn part of the running rigging plan on sheet 6. I believe I’ve worked it out, so I’ll share it here to possibly aid other builders. The lifting tackle (tyes) for the top-sail yards (the two middle yards) start off with the port and starboard ropes being tied to the upper forward-most cross-trees. From there they drop down to the yard, pass in opposite directions through a double block in the middle (K; 5mm double block), then back up to the cross-trees. Then they pass through two separate blocks tied to the cross-trees (H; 3mm single block) and down through a truck: a hole drilled through a section of square wood that’s been lashed to the aft-most top-mast back-stay. (6th deadeye from the front on the fore-mast, 7th deadeye from the front on the main-mast. I used 1.5mm x 1.5mm walnut, cut into 3mm lengths for the 4x trucks. From there, the top-sail yard tyes terminate at a block (J; 5mm single block). A second block is lashed to the chain-plates. The final hauled rope on each side passes through both blocks and gets tied off: Forward inner bulwark cleat for the fore, aft-most belaying pin on the quarterdeck for the main. I’ve probably confused you more, haven’t I?
  7. The brass topsail yard’s parral ribs have been airbrushed with Vallejo black primer before assembly with the parral trucks (beads).
  8. All the standing rigging has now been completed with no real problems. The yard-arms had been completed a few months ago. Time to hang them.
  9. The termination of the main topgallant backstay was easier than expected. I followed the book’s method of a vee-stirrup on the fore-top. The main topmast’s backstay drops through the port-side lubber’s hole.
  10. Oh, Great Oracle, a question…. Main topgallant backstay. My plans for Caldercraft’s 1:64 HM Brig Supply show the stay (highlighted in yellow) terminates on the fore-mast’s top. C. Nepean Longridge’s Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships book only really relates to HMS Victory. It shows the main topgallant stay terminates at a v-shaped stirrup lashed to the foremast trestle-trees which support the fore-top. Would there be a different termination method on smaller logistics vessels such as the Supply? Also, for bonus points; the main topmast’s backstay (highlighted in blue) show the line passes through a block at the masthead, then passes through the top to terminate at the deck. As there’s no hole in the platform behind the masthead, how would I do that? Drill a hole?
  11. I’ve now completed the top-mast’s shrouds. I’ve been using some leftover Artesania Latina black 0.25mm rope for the ratlines, but I’ve finally run out of it. So the fore topmast’s port’s ratlines are done with the Caldercraft supplied natural 0.25mm rope. They’re soon to be dyed black with Indian ink. I’d done a test; one of the lower ratlines was natural colour, then dyed black. I honestly can’t remember which one….So, that’s good! On to the topmast’s backstays.
  12. Funny...I found your build of the Supply while looking for guidance of the self-same rigging! Your build looks very nice indeed. Well played, that man!
  13. The fore-stay and main-stay are 1.5mm rope. I’ve dyed them black with Indian ink on a paint brush.
  14. I’ve completed the main-mast’s shrouds and ratlines. The futtock shrouds and catharpins have been finished as well. I’ll fit the main and fore-stays before moving onto the topmast shrouds.
  15. Because there’s virtually no weight to the driver-gaff, its running rigging appeared too loose. So I’ve added two extra ropes down to the quarterdeck to keep it under tension. They’re not in the plans but they don’t look too out of place. (I hope.) The three blocks for the gaff’s tackle are supposed to be all mounted behind the main mast-head. The rope’s run down the mast would be fowled by the the top, so I relocated the lowest block to the rear of the top. I made it a double block to accommodate both the upper and lower gaff’s tackle in the same manner.
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