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HKC

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    hkcolby@mac.com

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    Encinitas, CA

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  1. Greetings: (Not certain this is the correct forum, but ...) I am nearing completion of my Denmark Build and have run out of blocks shown below. They are backordered but Billings Denmark just sent Billings USA a shipment and the blocks were not included. I have heard that Billings Denmark is quite slow at filling orders and am anxious to proceed. Does anyone have about 14 of these 7mm plastic blocks they can spare and are willing to sell to me? Thanks, HKC
  2. Thank you Jud and John: Jud: I misspoke. they are not rigging pins they are called rigging screws (per my plans and also per Underhill's Masting and Rigging book upon which I totally rely. But, you are correct about how they function. Exactly like a turnbuckle. John: I agree that wire would be the best for authenticity. My concern was how to affix the wire. I suppose the answer is "carefully." If you have the time, check out this link http://www.skoleskibet-danmark.dk/picsPHP/galleri.php?album=Togt92 I relied heavily on the photos on this site and updated my old model to some of the current features of the ship.Much of my workmanship leaves a bit to be desired but for a first effort, I'll take it. Thanks again to you both.
  3. Hello Modellers: I am building the old Denmark 1:75 scale and am looking for suitable material for shear poles. As I understand the term, these are the metal rods that are placed between the rigging pins to keep them from turning and they function as the first couple of rungs up to the ratlines on the shrouds. I've included a photo showing the fore mast starboard pins. I constructed them with paper clip wire and 1mm brass tubing. I need to install the shear poles but have a couple of questions. (1) should they be installed between the pins and if so, how, or should they be attached to the outside and overlap the pins slightly. (2) In either case, what material would be suitable? I could cut short lengths of wire and try to glue them in-between the pins but I sense this would be extremely difficult and might not result in a uniform look. Attaching them to the outside allows me to align them but don't know the best material to use (wire, wood, ??) All suggestions and experience gratefully welcome. HKC
  4. This is my attempt at making the triple sister blocks. I used a 1mm brass rod and three 2mm bullseye fairleads. Unfortunately, the bullseye fairleads are not substantially attached to the rod. I tried to increase the surface area for the glue by filing into the center of the rod at the point of attachment.
  5. Tadusz: Those are terrific pictures. Thanks. Any suggestions on how to make a 1/75 scale model of them? Mine turned out to be a bit weak. HKC
  6. Popeye2sea: The picture below shows the triple sister on the left. (Sorry for the poor image). It consists of 3 single blocks mounted on a stanchion (with 4 legs) fixed to the pin rail. The lines that run to it are the braces for the course, lower topsail and upper topsail yards, as I interpret my Underhill Masting and Rigging book. Since posting my initial post, I have figured out a way to make them and will take a picture and post it on this thread. HKC
  7. I'm building a 1/75 scale plank on bulkhead model of the Danmark and I am looking for hints on how to construct the triple sister blocks. I've decided to use bullseye fairleads 2mm in diameter because they appear to be the proper scale on the model but I'm not sure how to make the frame on which to attach the bullseyes I am using as blocks. I thought about attaching the blocks to a 1mm brass rod and bending it to form the legs of the stanchion but there is minimal contact surface area between the rod and block and it does not seem it will withstand much, if any, strain from the line without pulling loose. Besides, Mr. Underhill points out the there are 4 legs on the stanchion and my idea only produces 2 legs This is my first ever model so I'm looking for expert advice. All suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, ;HKC
  8. Marc: I'm curious, what is the scale of your model? I am trying to learn as much as I can about running rigging and I have the Underhill book but my model is a 1:75 scale and I find it difficult to reproduce the gear he describes, especially the blocks. I'm working on an old Billing Boats model of the Danmark (505) but I am updating parts of it due to the 1980s refitting that was done. HKC
  9. Thank you all for your responses. I've been offline the better part of this year but back at it now. I will follow up on the server hairnet and fabric store netting suggestions. Thank you.
  10. Thanks Allan, I'll give that a try. I just looked on the site but could not find the netting. HKC
  11. I am building the Danmark (older version) and the kit came with a piece of netting similar to a window screen but more flexible that is situated under the bowsprit. The piece supplied is too small for my application so I need to acquire a larger piece. I have two questions: (1) what i the name for it, and (2) where can I get it? thanks, HKC
  12. B.E.: I am building the Danmark. Built in 1932. Steel masts and yards. HKC
  13. Is there a general rule or a table that gives diameter of various rigging lines/chains(links per inch)/wire depending on the scale of the model being constructed? I don't trust my eye to select the proper dia. From a photo and I don't want the rigging to be badly out of proportion. The model I am building is 1:74 scale. I am thinking that .028mm line looks right for the shroud lines but not sure what size to use for the running rigging. HKC
  14. Thank you Clare. I'm reaching out to them now. HKC
  15. Also, I tried calling them and their number has been disconnected. HKC
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