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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. I’m on my third copy of Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Monfeld. I use it so much that I just discovered over this past weekend that the spine is starting to disintegrate (like my other two copies did).
  2. I’m taking a break from the Victory and building the Prince de Neufchatel from plans in American Sailing Ships by Howard I. Chapelle. So far I’ve traced the hull lines and resized them to 1/72 scale.
  3. I got my scalpel and blades in the mail today. I ordered them after reading the thread on scalpels on this forum. According to the thread, they work better and last longer than X-Acto blades, which is very important to me, because I burn through an X-Acto blade a week. So, I figured I would try a scalpel out. I tested it out on a carronade carriage when I got home tonight. It worked beautifully. It made a very clean cut, even when I tried just shaving the poster board (which usually doesn’t work very well). I’ll see how the scalpel does on wood, this weekend. I’ll let you guys know how long the blade lasts.
  4. Patrick and Mark, Thank you very much for the comments! I started cutting out the carriages for the carronades last night. I also bought a 1/8” dowel rod to make the wheels from. I am learning as I go.
  5. Very nicely done, Mark! Good job!
  6. 18 gun carriages: 12 12-lb carronades - from Search for Speed Under Sail 4 long 9-lb cannon - from AOTS Bellona 2 long 12 lb cannon - IBID Now to let them dry and then start cutting
  7. Starboard and stern gunports are rigged. I ran them to cleats attached to the bulwarks.
  8. I keep having to reglue them because I keep breaking them. Fortunately the starboard side is almost done.
  9. Note to self: Never, ever attach gunport lids without steel pins again.
  10. The Prince de Neufchatel now looks grungy and well used. I used a couple of different washes and did some dry brushing to add depth and make it look a little more real (in my opinion). I also put another coat of sealant on the entire model. Now, I’m going to rig the gunport lids.
  11. The Prince de Neufchatel now has a good base coat to work from. I’m going to use the faux metallic technique from my war gaming days to simulate metal. Then I’ll apply a wash in the corners to simulate dirt before using dry brushing to add a bit more depth and create shadows. As I mentioned before, I tend to treat my ship models like gigantic war gaming miniatures.
  12. I made a total of 32 cleats. 24 were for the port lids, the other 8 were extra. If I need more, then I will make more. I installed the 24 cleats for the port lids. Once everything is dry, I will do the final painting, along with weathering, of the hull. Then I will rig the gunport lids.
  13. My cleats: They’re not perfect, but it’s a start, lol.
  14. GrandpaPhil


    What’s the best way to scratch build cleats?
  15. Painted surfaces typically get Mod-Podged when I’m completely done with them, otherwise I use the clearcoat on those too, unless I need a completely matte finish, then I don’t put any kind of sealer over painted surfaces. Just as a quick note, my wood models typically get treated like plastic models in terms of finishing. That’s why I don’t invest in the fancier woods for parts that are going to get painted anyways.
  16. I use Delta Ceramcoat clearcoat/sealer on mine, when I have bare wood that I don’t intend to paint. That’s what I used on the Victory.
  17. GrandpaPhil


    Thank you very much, I saved a copy.
  18. GrandpaPhil

    Advise on first ship kit

    Thank you. It’s solid hull. That’s the only solid hull model I’ve ever built. The rest have been plank on bulkhead.
  19. GrandpaPhil

    Advise on first ship kit

    My first real model ship kit was the Sultana by Model Shipways (Model Expo). It was a good challenge and I learned a lot in the process. It’s easy enough for the first time builder but is easily modified if you want to expand your skills. I was happy with the end result.

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