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  1. Hi Brian - You are right that at most modeling scales the hitch cannot be easily seen. But if you use a simple overhand loop around the shroud the difference is readily seen. The ratlines coming off a clove hitch are perfectly horizontal with each other. The ratlines coming off an overhand loop have a distinct angled look. That is, depending on whether you hitched from forward to aft or vice versa, the forward ratline will angle up leaving the shroud, while the aft one will angle down. To get to the next shroud, the ratline then must take on an "S" curve, which is easy to see. After practicing for a while, I found that tying a clove hitch is pretty easy. It's a lot like knitting, it becomes almost automatic after a while. I have to admit that in small scales I do not seize an eye into the ends of the ratline and lace them to the outer shrouds. Best of success with your project Dan
  2. From the album Oneida (1809) US brig of war

    The aftmost carronade is on a wheeled carriage so it could be moved to the stern chase port. This is taked from a drawing by E.W.Cooke, as I have not seen it anywhere else. It makes so much sense that I decided to include it.
  3. From the album Oneida (1809) US brig of war

    The raised foredeck and pivot gun were removed by the commander shortly after the ship was completed.
  4. From the album Oneida (1809) US brig of war

    Research indicated that the ship was built with only nails and bolts and no treenails. I tried to indicated this by using soft iron pegs for the planking and wales. The copper plates are each embossed with 32 nailhead impressions and pounce wheel impressions along the edges.
  5. From the album Oneida (1809) US brig of war

    Oneida took part in the First Battle of Sackett's Harbor, where it held off a squadron of five British/Canadian ships and prevented the loss of Lake Ontario. This was the first naval battle and possibly the first military clash of the War of 1812.
  6. Thanks Nils - It turned out to be an interesting exercise in kit-bashing. It reminded me why I scratch-build - even with a very well-designed kit, there were still built-in mistakes to trip up the unwary. Be well Dan
  7. Hi all - Here is another tip for tying ratlines - After you have clipped your lined off card behind the shrouds, put a dot of white paint on each of the outermost shrouds where they cross your lines. Now remove the card. This will give you your horizontal guideline while freeing up access to the back of the shrouds when you tie your knots. After all of the ratlines are done go back and paint over the white dots with black paint. Since the shrouds were tarred, if not the ratlines, this actually results in a more accurate look. I use clove hitches, myself, even down to 1:96 scale, although I have seen other methods that can be effective. I find them quick to tie and they slide easily up and down the shrouds to get the horizontal look right. At the outermost shrouds I use an overhand loop, which is small and neat, with the tail running down and behind the shroud. The tail pulls outward, so I can adjust the tension on the knots as I go, and helps in avoiding the hourglass problem. I find that using just this overlhand loop is the least obvious once the tail is cut off. I wrote an article on this method in the Nov/Dec 1989 issue of the old Ships in Scale magazine called "Get the 'Rats' out of your ratlines!" if you have the magazine or the CD. Dan
  8. Hi - The model is in 1:32 scale and was built from archaeological notes and drawings of a similar ship excavated at Roskilde, Denmark. I tried to be true to the building methods of the Vikings, so it is lapstrake planked with rivets through the overlaps. Frames are treenailed to the ribs, which were individually fitted to the planks, which were built first over a mold before the framing was installed. The most difficult pieces were the complicated stem and stern pieces which have a series of steps for the plank heads to attach to, but which have to be carved before the planks exist. Glad you enjoy the photos. Dan Pariser