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Tjalle58

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Everything posted by Tjalle58

  1. I started with the rudder and planked it, that was ok. But when I drilled the hole i came a bi to the left (port ). But I msjudged the angle so the hole in the poopdeck was way to far to the bow. I saw pictures from another post, I think it was in this forum, and he had filed yhe so it was cm:s long. I will not do that. I will cut the rudderpost and just stick it in the hole in the bottom and then i just put down the top of the rudderpost from the poopdeck 1 cm or so and glue it to the edge. The angle will be wrong but I don't think noone can notice. Part of the hole will be covered by the tiller so I think (hope) it will be ok. Speaking of the rudderpost: since I still don't have much experience I am constantly worried about if things will work. For instance this: The instruction said: make a notch in the rudderpost and insert the rudderblade 😟. A small saw and i file and it was ok.
  2. And back to the openings to the balcony. If I understand the instruction it says to put a post like this beside the opening I did not do that; I can always adjust that later so instead it came up like this: This is where I am right now. It's time to prepare the rudder and drill for the rudderpost and fit the deckfiitings
  3. I have prepared some fittings for the decks: Capstan there are six windlasses in total The doors (two of them): This is how I painted the hinges for the four doors:
  4. They have included a sticker that is supposed to sit on the transom But I prefer the planked transom as it is so I will skip the sticker. After I have assembled the transom I thought it looked strange. It was 1 cm to high so I had to cut it off in the bottom. As you can see I varnished the hull here a bit earlier than the instructions suggests
  5. Hi all! It's time for another update on my project. I have fitted the decks and the transom. The hole in the deck in bow is allmost invisible The waterways are glued in place also as you can see on the right I have started to take the hole for the passage to the balcony. And here I find the instructions a bit strange (or maybe it's me ) Why glue the waterway before I saw the bulwark. There is risk to damage the deck, it went out pretty well though. Would I build this again I would wait with the waterways. It's the same on the balcony, the waterway is in place.
  6. While the glue dried on the planks I started to plank the decks: I started with lining up the deck. I choose to a pattern of four, that is every fifth (or is it forth?) plank will be in the same position. Each plank are 8 cm. so that is 2 cm. between the lines maindeck allmost finished: I pulled a pencil, size 4B, on the edges of each plank to imitate the filling betwween the planks I don't know the word for that in english I used a 0,7 mm pencil to imitate the nails and then varnished the decks: As you can see above I took up the holes for the deck to be fitted to the hull. Don't do that, it is better to sand the pins on the hull so they just go up through the false deck and not the planks. The aft hole doesn't matter, that will be covered. The hole in the bow is allmost invisible but...
  7. Hi again shipmates It's time for an update on my Red Dragon. Some pictures from the hull planking. I am still not comfortable with the planking. I have the feeling that I have no idea of what I am doing but the hull came out pretty well after all. I did not line the hull as one is supposed to do, maybe thats why I feel insecure. Next I will (must) do that. First three planks on both sides: After that the instruction said to continue from the bottom so that is what I did Firs planking completed: This can be fixed with filler: And the second planking: I followed the same method as from the first planking. As you can see I didn't get the planks really tight but it is not as bad as it looks. In this angle with the flash the slots between looks bigger then they are. I put glue on the tip of a toothpick and dragged it on the slots, let the glue dry for just a few seconds and then sanded and the slots dissapeared. I will sand and varnish the hull so as I said: I am pretty happy with this.
  8. Hi all! After my last endurance with Thermopylae I will continue with something easier. And a bit different from what I think is the most beautiful ships. I started it some time ago parallel with Thermopylae so I have allready started with the second planking abd I have prepared the decks. Now it's time to start sanding the frames Soon ready for planking I will update this log with more pictures and for those of you who are beginners like me I will try to explain what I am doing and why. This far it's not much to say other than that I put back the support girders between every frame that I glued nd when all frames was in place i glued the girders.
  9. Thanks Kevin! No display case, it's not that good when you look close to it. But it's a fine decoration on the mantelpiece
  10. I had my moments when I thought I sholdn't make it. But, I think I said before, giving up is not an option The new railings and anchors looks better. By the way, I havn't found any smaller than 20 mm but I think they are ok. I will definitely continue. This is so much fun. Again, thanks for all help och advices. I hope one day I will be the one that can advice beginners . I look forward to see your rigging I know it will look better than mine Merry Christmas from a not so much beginner
  11. Hi all! This is agreat day and sort off a Christmas gift from me to myself . Thermopylae is finished (allmost). I have some more rope loops to do and hang om the belaying pins and railings. To start with I would like to thank all that helped me with advice and encouraging words. A special thanks to Denis "Popeye" and Puckotred. You have guided me through a lot of questions. Thanks 👍 and cheers 🍺. This model was a bit too difficult for me but one can see that it is a ship, but it looks best from a a distance in a dark room 😂. No, it is quite allright actually. I have done a lot of misstakes but I could correct most of them. I would like to correct the deadeyes, they are not in line. But that would mean I have to cut off allmost all rigging so I will probably leave it the way it is. To all beginners I say: Don't start with this modell unless you are much more talented than me. I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year !! I
  12. Yes I am determent to learn this. But I think like this: If you take ten people who have never played football before and they start to train exactly the same, some of them will be better from start and will be develope their skills faster. Some will be very good. That person is talanted.. A talented model-builder sees what he should do without needing to ask question about everything and is doing great from start. Well, everyone is a beginner and needs practice. I am not talented but very much able to learn. I will never play football in the Premier League but I can learn to play rather good. But I need to ask so here is todays question: Shouldn't the block tied to the mast (red circle) be facing backwards since the line is going backwards. The picture on the box shows the way I have done it but I have understood that the pictures and instructions can be "wrong". I am not sure I will change it on this ship but for the future it's good to know how I shall think when preparing the rig. Denis, you explained some in the earlier post but this is more like into details Now it's time to go to work so I wish you all a good day
  13. Ha ha, no I wont build her again but maybe Cutty Sark in a larger scale. The two are almost identical as it looks like on the pictures and I think you call them sister ships? My lines are not (and will not be) tangled but not very nice assembled. She will look rather good anyway if you look at her from a distance in a dark room 😂. No seriously, she will be ok. I'll post some pictures when the mizzen mast is assembled. I ran out of thin thread for the seizing so I have to wait a couple days til I get it from Cornwall.
  14. Hi Puckotred and Denis. I have the rigging tools and I use them. I am not quite familiar with them yet but sometimes they are really handy. It sure is the upper topsail yard lift on my picture. And it's a bit careless of me not to notice that the line or block was wrong before I assembled them. I have the Mizzenmast to go so I will try to do that more carefully. I have used white glue so far on that mast and it looks better so it's worth the waiting. As I said before I would like to build this ship again and correct all the misstakes but when finished it will be a nice decoration on the mantelpiece Noone but me will notice but that is the problem, I will notice 😂
  15. It is better to ask question and let peolple think you are stupid than not to ask and continue to be stupid 😂 So here is my question. I have pulled the lines outside the crosstree but when I took a closer look I notice that if it was real those lines would have been very heavy to pull. What would you have done? Should the upper block be hanging outside the crosstree? Nothing I can do about it now but for the next time
  16. Hi Denis! It would be great if you could would post the rigging instructions. I need all the help I can get so it would be perfect to study them. Sadly enough there is nothing I can do about the lower booms since they are allready rigged so I'll just have to leave it like that Speaking of glue I have noticed that the CA soaks into the thread and it's impossible to make it look "clean". Isn't there a lot of waiting when you use white glue. But then again it will be worth it if it looks better. I will start to use that and see what differeence it makes. The mizzen mast is left to rig so it will be interesting. I thought it was strange when the instruction shows that the mizzen mast yards shall be tied the to the aft railing. Do you have another smart sollution for that? I just found your link to the Cutty Sark rigging diagram so you don't have tp post it but thanks anyway I am studying it now and will continue doing so until I fully understand and remember everything
  17. It was a bit confusing how to orient the booms. On Cyril Hume´s picture it looks like they are under the yard and on the instruction and the pictures on the box it looks like the lower yard has the boom under and upper yards on the top. So I didn't really know how to put them Were they always oriented slightly upwards? I'll have to keep that in mind on the next ship. Thanks for the input
  18. Hi Denis! Interesting is the word I have this rigging tools, like crochet hooks and a tweezer and it´s actually working. But it is tricky. And challenging. I have to get the line in place and stretch it and then put a drop of super glue. After that I can continue with wrapping around the pin and glue again. So I guess I can do the shrouds on the mizzen mast before I do the running rigging. On my next ship I will plan more carefully where to hang the blocks and direction and so on. Speaking of next ship, I told you before that I have been "bitten by the bug" when you asked me. So I bought two halfbuilded ships this weekend, Vasa and Robert E Lee. So now I don't have to buy anything for two or three years .
  19. As I mentioned before this model is for learning. Now I have learned why I should wait with the shrouds until last . Now I am trying to tie the halyards around the belaying pins who are hidden behind the shrouds. This is so tight so I don't believe it
  20. Tying these stays between the foremast and Main mast through the rings in the deck and around the mast and tie together a little bit up. Wow, that was tricky but with a lot of patience and right tools I managed to fix it. I will repeat the same procedure between the Main mast ant the Mizzen mast but I can remove the main mast so that will be easier. My Good, this is fun I wish you all a nice day, and please feel free to comment and make suggestions and advices. I need it
  21. And one more (stupid) question I read in Ship Modelling Simplified than one should never run rigging lines on the forward side of the yards. Correct me if I am wrong but that must mean that one has to be more careful than me when gluing the blocks to the yards? Obviously I must have done something wrong here but in this case I will run the lines on the forward side because this is going to be too ugly. I must concider this ship as a learning object only, and try to make it as good as possible. But I will remeber everything when I build the next ship and be much more careful and plan ahead and all. Puh 😂 😬
  22. Hi again :) Wow Denis, that was much intersting to read. To start from the end: I allso had to replace a number teeth a while ago so I have five implants. Works perfect, you don't feel the difference This ship has really challenged my patience. It must be the first time a ship has been renovated I don't know how many times even before it has been built And as you say, there has been thousands of questions. I guess it is a bit easier if you have been working on ships so you allredy know the functions of everything but as you know, I have no experience. For instance my friend from this forum, Puckotred, used to work on a ship. He has given me a lot of good advices. I have studied the instructions and compared with pictures, especially Cyril Hume's model. He has totally different sollutions than Sergal and I guess mine will be somewhere in between. I think I have a quite good understanding of all the halyards and lifts and stays now and their function. Anyway, I'm on my way. The last change I had to do was the lower shroud. I had thread them wrong through the crosstree and assembled the deadeyes so I had tu cut out the platform in order to thread them right. Well well, I can almost say I built this ship twice. I think next model will be easier since I have learned a lot from this, especially about planning the work ahead. How do you prepare your masts and yards? Do you assemble all the halyards and lifts before you assemble the the mast to the ship? I started with that on my foremast but I was afraid that the lines would be entangled. But it's a bit tighter when the mast is in place, isn't it? We talked about jig for the deadeyes before. But i kept my jig and I think it works fine. You can see it in the picture. Have a nice day and weekend. I will continue updating this post when the foremast is finished
  23. Hi Denis! Thanks for the tips. I didn't think of cementing the stock so I will do that. I thimk I have to cement the yard in the hook but isn't it a strange construction? But when it is assembled noone will notice so I guess it.s going to be good. How are you doing with your Thermopylae?
  24. Hi Forum Friends. It's been a while since I popped in here but I have been struggling with my Thermopylae The top shrouds are finished and I have started to prepare the booms. (Tying ratlines can be a little bit boring ). I have a question as usual. One boom is supposed to be hanging on a hook according to the instruction. My dilemma is: When I lift the boom with the inner halyards the boom will, of course, come off the hook. On the other hand I can start with the outer halyards (is halyard the right word?) to keep it down. How would you solve this? I also recieved the new smaller anchors and they look much better then those who came with the model. Denis, they are 20mm and i bought them from Cornwall. Maybe a bit too small actually but I will keep them.
  25. Brave or maybe stupid This model is way out of my league. Last week I added Pride of Baltimore to my wishlist. Do you have a log on that one?
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