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johnothanswift

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  1. And that's the reason I'm not doing a build log of my first build. It puts a lot of pressure on you to post 'regularly' and so far I've taken 5 months to build half the hull of Roar Ege. Seriously, who wants to read about that. For those of us first timers this is usually a labour of love, but also one which can take a long time due to 'stuff' causing a slow down of progress. I really admire those who have the time to put in regular hours but for many people work, family, not being able to have a dedicated workshop, all slow the building progress and the build log tends to be the first to go. Just my two cents worth but as Ryzuhr and I are both building similar models I fully understand the delays, and I have far fewer excuses for not showing greater progress. 😊
  2. johnothanswift

    Greetings bored in retirement!

    The following link may be of some help too. http://www.shipmodell.com/index_files/SHIPMODELL_DERFFLINGER.htm Google translate may be needed. 😉 Perhaps someone should do a sticky on internet searching but this may be helpful, if your wanting information on a specific topic, ie Derfflinger, a structured keyword search on google gives you the needed information within 10 min, with checking a few links. I'm a day or two late here but this search; dikar derfflinger model ship plans pdf gives a great result. You'll find that the internet is your best friend with uncovering almost all information you need on any topic. FYI: I'm in my 50's so this is not a 'young person's thing', 😊, just a bit of practice and you'll discover just what a powerful tool this is for researching information.
  3. I just came across this on Youtube, it's the Hercules which is a year later than the Samson but I thought it may be some use if you haven't already seen it. 😃
  4. As they are LED's and don't get hot why not dull them down with something like Tamiya acrylic paint. I'd suggest experimenting with ones not on the model yet first 😃 to test the theory but that should dull them nicely and let you adjust the colour. EDIT: Here you go, from a model train forum. 😉 http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/179811.aspx
  5. After many years of plastic I'm currently building a Billings Roar Ege, very slowly :). And my next, or next,next is an Artesania Latina full interior Bounty. Frankly, after looking at the builds here of this model I'm looking at upskilling my wood skills a lot before even attempting this kit in my stash. But I'm finding that wood is, in many ways, a far more enjoyable medium to work on than plastic.
  6. I've been watching your build with interest, Thought about this kit myself. As a fellow Kiwi I've found the Jaycar cattledog to be of great use, mainly because in Wangas we only get a very small amount of what Jaycar have available instore. This may be useless info but page 104 of this may help you if you have more issues.
  7. This post from Model Ship World forum describes the solution I'm considering using. Much easier and cheaper. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/CopperSheathing.pdf And the cool thing about the internet is a bit of searching provides absolute proof that the Bounty was copper sheathed in 1787. The archaeologists found copper plates at the wreck site. If your interested in the Bounty my earlier link is well worth a read.
  8. Glad I could provide some useful input. I'm very new to wooden ship models, my background is in plastic vehicle modelling but I always enjoy the research to focus on accuracy. I'm currently building Billings Roar Ege to get my feet wet, so to speak, and may well try something else prior to trying the Bounty. It came up in an auction here from an insurance company and I acquired it for less than half the normal retail. And the paragraph of instructions in the Billings kit make the Artesania Latina effort for the Bounty look brilliant, although, as you have pointed out, I'm sure I'll discover their shortcomings in due course. If your wanting to include ballast then this may be an easy solution, I've used this before with my kits and 3.2mm square is close enough in scale to the actual 3" ballast found on site.
  9. I'm watching this build with great interest as I recently acquired this model myself and I'm certainly going to follow many of your building methods. You are certainly building an outstanding model. I have been researching the ship for my build and one point I've come across is the fact the Bounty was fitted with copper plates when it was refitted by the Admiralty in 1787. This information is in John McKay's "The Armed Transport Bounty" and is confirmed by archaeological dives on the wreck. https://archive.archaeology.org/9905/etc/bounty.html I just thought that you might be interested in this information as you are building such an outstanding model that I'll be watching with my notepad at the ready for more tips. .

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