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  1. Hey Lou, Thought I'd pull up a chair. WOW....a wooden ship....NEVER ventured in that territory. Looks nice... Keep the photos coming. Mike
  2. Morning OC and Lou. Thanks for the comments. Lou you are right ...my house is a museum but with limited admissions...lol I think I have figured out a way to rig these canons. I cut a 2 1/2" length of cord and attached eye bolts to each end. Positioned each eyebolt (1/2 knotted) at 2" apart. I then glued each eyebolt into the ceiling and let them dry. I then wrapped the cord around the end of the canon and tightened the cord around the end. Holding the cord tight with two reverse tweezers I glued the cord to the cannon end. This morning I removed the reverse tweezers and WA LA...Not bad.
  3. Well Kevin I thought about it long and hard (about 30 seconds) and realized it was far beyond my talents and patience. The first mistake I made was doing the rigging on the carronades on the port side. I should have started on the starboard side as the knots in the eye bolts glued to the ceiling would not be readily seen as I plan to display the Connie with the starboard facing out. Oh well, the great plans of mice and men. It's not going in a museum so I am good with the progress so far and it is FAR better all around than my first Connie so count me as a happy camper. Thanks for the complement.
  4. Well I finally got all the Spar deck carronades assembled, primed, 2 coats of paint and cannons glued on to all 22 guns. I had some spar wheels that I glued to the bottom so I had an "invisible" glue point to the deck. Through trail and error I found I needed to ruff up the deck with sand paper so the wood glue would stick to the semi-gloss oak veneer deck. NOW the fun part ... rigging the carronades to the eye bolts on the ceiling (I think I said that correctly...lol). I didn't follow the instructions to glue the eye bolts to the ceiling before the carronades were glued to the deck as I figured it would be impossible to thread the rope thru the eye bolts once glued to the ceiling. I also found it easier to leave the eye bolts attached to the plastic tree and use a round file to open up the holes a little bit. The first one I did (pic below) I tied a half knot in the eye bolt and glued the rope to the eye bolt. Not know the length I just threaded the eye bolt to the other end with enough length in the rope to tie a knot. I glued the right eye bolt in the ceiling and wrapped the rope around the back of the brass cannon as per the instructions. I then glued the rope to the cannon and let it set for awhile. I glued the left eye bolt in place and even glued the rope to the eye bolt, leaving a little slack in the rope. After that set for a while I tried to tie a knot in the left eye bolt. After a bazillion attempts I just cut the @#$@# off. See where I'm going with this folks??? HELP!!!! I decided to tie both ends of the rope to the eye bolts first and then cement the right eye bolt first... let that dry then wrap the rope around the end of the cannon , leaving a little slack to the glued eye bolt. In theory this should work except the glued half knot on the right eye bolt didn't hold and guess what??? Yeah I know...but the pic in the instructions doesn't look like a full knot. Any suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated.....
  5. Well, I finally got some more accessories from Radek at HiSModel in the Czech Republic. Didn't care for the look of the plastic carronades with my brass cannons for the Spar deck so I sold some more plasma and ordered the wooden ones from Radek. I had to do some sanding on the block between the upright sides as it was a little wide for the sides to set perpendicular. Also, the brass cannons will more on the cross pin so after many failed attempts at gluing brass to brass I put some 5 min epoxy the back portion of the carronade for the barrel to rest in. Now I only have 20 more to go. I figure I should be done with the spar deck cannons by spring but don't ask me WHICH spring... First 4 glued...2 primed. Tiny parts...Thank God and Lou for tweezers..... Here they are on the Spar deck with their plastic counterparts... Thanks again Jim and Lou for suggesting the ceilings be painted green. I really like it now.
  6. Mornin Ozark, When I paint small areas I usually have my face fairly close to the mat where I rest the part. I find my hand is steadier when I can rest it on the mat. I usually use the paint lid as my paint source (a tip Lou gave me). I never have to lift the lens to see as I have the paint jar lid close to my part. Hope that helps. I enjoy the mag light immensely. It also has two brightest levels.
  7. Hey Ozark, I share your frustration with doing detail work on areas of the Connie that will be hidden. I started to paint the interior of the Captain's quarters and gave up as it seemed fruitless to me. The way I look at it is that ever an individual builder wants to do to be satisfied with their build is what they should do. In so far as the mag headset is concerned, I found this one that I really like. It gives you great magnification for the tiny details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DW6FJ6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
  8. Hey Lou, I was just browsing through the Connie instruction manual as I do pretty often and guess what? I was a picture on the cannon carriages. Yepper....Big wheels up front for the gun deck carriages. NOW I can sleep tonight...lol
  9. Well Jim, YOUR brain is engaged....Mine...not so much... When I was looking at these tiny parts I just happened to have an emery board laying right by my mat. Luckily I just had one to do for the long gun on the spar deck. Good to know for the future. Thanks for the tip.
  10. Hey Lou, Just heard back from Radek at HiSModel. He said the larger wheels go up front. The six wheels included where for possible breakage. I used his brass cannons on the gun deck and they came in two pieces: cannon and center pin. Some were movable so I glued them in place....I think...lol
  11. Hey Lou, The other oddity is that there are 3 wheels larger than the other 3. I used the 2 small wheels and 2 from another sheet. These long gun carriages would really not be seen once the spar deck is in place. Seeing there are 6 wheels per carriage I imagine the intent was to use 2 large and 2 small with a spare of each. I have an email off to Radek at HiSModel for his explanation.
  12. Well, the assembly of the spar deck long gun carriage was a little bit of a challenge even with tweezers. You can see on the pics above that the "axel" for the wheels is square and the wheels have a round hole. Something in the back of my mind says you can't fit a square peg in a round hole. The instruction stated one side of a wheel has a larger hole than the other and to rotate that on the square axle. After many failed attempts I used an emery board to round out the square axle as best as I could because this is a tiny part. Contrary to the instructions I found it easier to hold onto the front piece and axle than when the sides were glued on. At least the carronades will be easier as there are fewer pairs and different wheel mountings. All in all, I am satisfied with the results. I just have to figure out how to attach the two long wedges to the bottom of the long gun carriage. No rush. Now I await the carronades from the Czech Republic.
  13. Here is the instruction as provided, to assemble the carriages. Maybe I'm missing something in the translation.
  14. I did that, Lou, JUST FOR YOU...lol I figured it out 3 seconds after I posted the comment. I LOVE THIS SITE....No dry humor here.... he he he You get smacked right between your eyes for stupidity....just kidding... of course. Here's the pic of the pieces. The red arrows are the mystery parts. Note: there are six wheels. Humm This is the assembly pic. The mystery pieces may be glued together under the main frame but never want to guess as none of the other parts are assembled. Better safe than sorry.
  15. Thanks for the tip CDW, I luckily bought the original Titebond that's water clean up. NOW I just have to find some tiny fingers... Thank God I'm in no rush....

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