Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

211 profile views
  1. Looks quite nice. I agree about the contrast.
  2. Looking for a sander to get into tight corners and spaces. I see Micro Mart has one but always looking for advice / suggestions.
  3. The false frames will be glued in after the deck planking and before the bulwarks are installed. I'll soak the bulwarks to take some pressure off the false frames when installing them.
  4. Work time: 11 hours Total work time: 103.9 hours Time to plank the foredeck I wanted the first two planks to be exactly in line with the keel so I edge glued 2 planks on a piece of wax paper, tapered the forward edge to fit the bow and used TiteBond. To keep the planks in line with the keel I used snack bag clips and to keep downward pressure until the glue set I used the modified binder clamps. Following the practicum I installed 5 planks on either side of the first two and then placed the shorter wider board on each side (don’t know the proper name for these boards). Seeing that the next two planks on each side would butt up against these wider boards without any support below them, I glued a small scrap of planking to the underside to support the two deck planks. After adding one additional plank to each side it was time to lay the nibbing plank (strake?) and continue with the planking. I was a bit apprehensive about this stage of the deck planking but I think I did OK for a first timer. Still need to sand and give the deck a coat of wipe on poly, but I won’t do that until I complete the foredeck. I used the "graphite pencil led" method to darken the seams between the planks. Only thing I didnt like was the CA glue caused the graphite to spread a bit where I edge glued. But it is what it is and hopefully the sanding will minimize it. So, I have the starboard side finished (getting that last plank in took forever. LOL). Speaking of sanding the deck. Any tips on some type of tool that will get into tight corners? I was looking at this one but see there aren’t any reviews on it. https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Sander We will be dragging the RV down to Florida for the rest of the winter so I won’t resume work on the boat until April. It’s much too fragile to go bouncing down the highway. But I’ll be monitoring the site and keeping up with the other builds I’m following. Dave
  5. Not sure I fully understand. But I'll sit back and watch.
  6. Decent progress is an understatement. Looks great!
  7. You are just a working machine! Keep up the great work.
  8. I know one of the Titebond formulas dries clear. Is it Titebond ll ?
  9. Work time: 4.5 hours Total work time: 92.9 No longer listing tools and materials as by this time it's getting pretty redundant. LOL In an effort to get a decent paint job where the waterways / false frames /bulwarks meet, I decided to deviate from Hunt’s practicum. According to the practicum on the foredeck: Install waterways inbound of the bulkhead extensions and then plank the hull Plank foredeck Install waterway boards between the bulkhead extensions Install 2 bulwark planks Chop out the bulkhead extension and install false frames My plan: Chop out bulkhead extensions Lay one continuous waterway board Mark and mask places for false frames Paint waterway board Paint 2 other waterway planks and install those Plank deck Paint false frames Install false frames Paint inboard side of bulwark planks Install bulwark planks So far I have removed the inboard waterway plank Removed the bulkhead extensions Made a “measuring tool” to properly space the false frames Installed the 1 piece waterway board and measured / masked for false frames Painted waterway board and removed masking Painted the two waterways planks and installed those. The foredeck waterway plank I had installed per the practicum prior to planking the hull (the one I removed) was 3/32 X 1/8. It took the place of the 2 smaller, 3/32 X 3/32, waterway planks shown on the kit plans. This is another way Hunt’s practicum deviates from the plans, I suppose in an attempt to simplify the build. Since I had to remove the larger 3/32 X 1/8 waterway plank, I went with the kit plans and replaced it with the 2 smaller 3/32 X 3/32 waterway planks. I’m thinking a bit ahead and wondering which type of glue to use for the false frames when I get to them. The bulwarks will be glued to these so I want get them as sturdy as possible. I plan on soaking the bulwarks and edge gluing them to the top hull plank to take some stress off the false frames, but still……
  10. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the advice.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research