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FingerSticker

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  • Birthday 03/06/1961

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    Leicester, UK
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    modelling, modelling, Da Mizzus and more modelling

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  1. Evenin_all! First off, many, many thanks for the likes from you all! But it's been a while since my last update so let's get cracking, shall we? I continued with the gun carriages for the gun deck. Using the recently enhanced planking sides as templates the carriages were placed in the correct position, or as close to it as possible, with quite a bit of PVA glue stuck to their wheels. Once the PVA glue set, I then transferred a couple of drips of thick-ish superglue around the wheels to ensure they won't come loose in a hurry. Whilst that was drying, I cut out the front parts of the main deck and glued them together using spray mount. The assembly was then scored with my trusty awl to bring the planks out and curved over the big jar. I then placed it on the model and noticed that I did not need to trim anything, it was fitting that good. So a few beads of PVA along the edges of the frames and in it went. The other decks were laminated on 0.5 mm card again. And then I had a brain-freeze. I could try and cover it up as a wicked plan to sort out this problem (which I didn't have) but at the end of the day, it was a bit (a bit???) of stupidity on my part. You see, in the above picture you can see the brown shapes on the right and top of the picture? They are covers for the frames that are sticking out. And they were to go onto the frames as is. NOT laminated to a 0.5 mm card! Then something else went wrong, namely that one of the cover pieces somehow got splashed. You can see how the ink on the right hand side became mottled. I don't know how or when this happened and at first I thought that it might be okay as the a-pieces are supposed to go on the inside of the frames so would be less visible. I was pondering if my stupidity required fixing but whilst thinking about it and how best to sort it, I continued with the main decks. After scoring of the planks the top and bottom pieces were dry fitted. Or at least i tried to dry-fit them but they were too long. Taking the hole for the mast in the middle section as datum point and measuring the distances with a caliper, I worked out that the middle deck needed 0.4 mm cut off of the back of it and another 0.7 mm off the front. I decided to cut the top piece first and once I got that fitting snugly, I would glue the top to the bottom piece and use the top as a template to cut off the oversize bits off the bottom piece too. This way I wouldn't risk alignment issues between the two pieces. You can just about see the oversize section on the right hand side. But once that was cut to size after glueing together, I curved the deck and slid it into place. Still fitting well so a few beads of glue on the frames and down it went! The aft section of the deck was done as described above and again it needed a little clearance. But it still went down well in the end. During all this I decided that i was going to repair my stupidity. But since I didn't have an A3 all in one printer I didn't do a start copy of all sheets. Instead it would have to be almost piece by piece. For a trial I colour copied the middle section of the deck (just because that was lying around at the time). The result was ... hmmmmm. The real piece is on the right and the scanned copy (apart from having shadow issues) was a lot lighter! Yet the wall coverings .... A lot, lot better and in fact good enough to use. What's the difference between the deck piece and the walls? No idea. But then, the printer is a bog standard all in one printer so I never expected it to need to do things like this. So I started the repair with the thus copied piece, which had the openings cut out, the planks scored and then a little sliver needed to be taken off it to fit well. I was going to do the same with the other wall sections when ..... I noticed that not only does the printer not know light from dark, it also scans incomplete as I found out when I was about to score the second piece. So another scan needed on 220 g card. Better this time. Good enough to use. I decided from a aesthetics point of view to 'repair' the mottled wall as well. I did this by simply scan-printing the front wall section onto normal paper, cut that out and glued it on top of the mottled section. Can you tell the difference? I know I can't. But both sides have now been done. which leave me with one question. Where should I place the following part? The part marked 31b doesn't show on the assembly drawing and the width is wider than the bottom width of part 31a. I asked Shipyard for guidance and hope I will get that before I have to glue down the fore deck. Otherwise I might just.... uhhh .... feed it to the carpet monster? Anywayz, that's all I have done so far. Next in line are two more wall coverings and then the Captain's quarters dividing walls. Part 33 has some of those pesky windows so I will trial out how to open them up. I am thinking of putting a blob of superglue on the back of the windows to stiffen the card, let it dry and then use a new blade to punch out the black window bits. I would normally then glue some acetate behind the windows but as the wall it goes onto is a blind wall, I will need to think of something else. But more about that later. Have a good evening!! Adrie.
  2. Keep going, Chris! You're doing an amazing build!
  3. Good evening, all! I guess it is time for a little update. But before that a genuine thank you to those who have reacted to my posts. It is , ezz oalwaizzz, mucho appreciado. But enough of showing off my (non-existant) language skills and let's have some piccies. First I continued the removal of the frame posts. But because I removed those strips I also had to glue down the internal ship walls in the mid section, as they used the strips to 'lean' against. And then it was snip - snip with my faithful cutter to remove the front side wall. And now the big carriage can swing about unhindered. Just a little lick of additional paint .... ... and you can't really tell that the wall had been there in the first place! Now that the repair was done, I could (finally) continue with the remaining three gun carriages of which I am finishing the last one tonight! YAY! I know there were 'only' 22 to do at this stage but with 17 parts to cut out for each, then glue 6 back on the card and cut them out again, it was really 23 parts for each carriage. My 'favourites' were the 4 sides of the carriage. But they're now all done (apart from 2 wheels and a lick of paint so we can move on to the next part, which is the front section of the main deck. Two layers, each laminated onto 0.5 mm card to be cut out, glued on top of each other and scored like I did the lower deck part 2. But because this deck is 'out in the open' I decided to follow Chris and Dan (amongst others) and sprayed to top section with matt varnish for additional protection and a matt finish. Of course I can't glue the deck on yet. I'll have to glue down the carriages first for which I will use PVA first and then, after drying, I will secure it with thick-ish superglue. The problem with most paints and glues is that painting weakens the glue bond, and since there is an enamel pint on the rim of the wheels of the carriages and I do NOT want those carriages to come loose when I try to install the gun barrels on them, so I will secure the bond with a touch on superglue. Just in case, you know? And that will be tomorrow's task. Just one thing to mention. You remember that I ordered the sail set from Shipyard online and that they arrived pretty quickly? I used the same website model minus vessel dot com to find a current email address for them and used that to ask a question about the sails. I asked the question on the 7th and received a response on the 10th. And it was a very nice response too! Wielkie dzięki, Marta, if you happen to look in! Annnnyyyyyyywayzzzz, that was about it, so for now, a lovely evenin_all! Adrie
  4. Good evenin_all! As always, thanks for the thumbs, they are much appreciated. Today's report is mostly about repairing. But first I wish to present to you the new arrival at my address. Tara ..... And with the hand drill and a 0.5 mm drill I was able to 'pin the carriage', i.e. drill a small hole in the wedge block, cut off a little piece of 0.5 mm brass rod, superglue it into the drilled hole, wait for it to dry, drop a drop of PVA onto the rod, wait for that to dry then paint it all red, like> The drop of PVA is to 'thicken up' the end of the brass rod to make it look less like a thin rod and more like a grip shaped for a hand. I've done two of these for now since I will use them in the places where someone might possible see the back of the gun carriages, i.e. on the already installed deck 2, depending on how many gratings I will install on the deck above it. I was thinking of leaving most of them open but will see how the gratings come out and how it will look with them installed or left out. All the other carriages on the gun decks will not be 'pinned' as you can't possibly see the back of them, once in place. The ones on the weather decks will be so amended, though and I am looking at the appropriate drawings to see if I can add some ropes and tackles on the ones in full sight. probably not, as it may be too fiddly for my fingers, but I am keeping an open mind here. Anywayzzzz, The repairs now. I cut out the remaining openings in the upper first planking parts since I didn't fancy doing that after I had glued the gun port frames onto the back of the pieces and cut 9 mm lengths off the 2 mm wide strip of 1 mm cardboard as shown previously. I cut out 4 per position, align them along the edge of the holes and glued them down with PVA. Once they were all glued down and the glue had dried, I then started painting the frame posts red with the humbrol enamel and let that dry. Yes, I know that there is another layer of planking going to go on top of the white card but I still didn't want too big a mess with the red paint and if you carefully brush if from the back, you get an almost spotless effect at the front of the card. Then it was time to start snipping off the supplied gun port frames and try out the planking layer in their place. It looking good! The next stage is to cut away the top of the second frame on the above left photo But before I do that, I want to strengthen the remainder of that frame, which I did by using some of the 2 mm strip that I used before and gluing them under the gun deck like so. Hopefully that will be enough keep it all together when I start ripping out the top section. But for now I will let the glue dry thoroughly and start work on the white planking cards for the right hand side. Oh, and Richmond, I am sooo sorry. Apparently the British rowers cheated and took a plane from Warsaw to Heathrow, meaning that I had some more new arrivals. Quality is looking good again, which makes me happy and the mizzus is happy that I listened to her and did as she said. So we're all happy here now! And on that bombshell ...... See you all laterzzzzz. Adrie.
  5. Good evenin_all! And a very hearty welcome to Cap'n Steve, who has joined us! Be welcome, lad and my deepest regrets that I won't be using thy prosaic style. I hath not been trained that well in Ye Olde Speak. Anywayzzzz, I decided to have a little break from the carriage construction as I am still waiting for the arrival of the hand drill. Instead I thought I'd better make sure the gun port positions were all okay since them carriagezzz will be glued down as soon as I can stick a little pin in their backsides! So I cut out the first planking 'layers' that had the gunports on them ..... ... then offered them up to the model and marked with a pencil where the holes in the card are. The results are that some of them are good .... and some were bad. VERY bad, in fact ..... A bit disappointing, to be honest, but nothing that can't be fixed. Taking a leave out of Jan's book, I intend to snip out all those little blighters and replace them with a 2 mm wide strip of 1 mm thick cardboard which is going to be glued to the back of the sides, like ... After glueing and drying I will then paint them rosy red and none will be the wiser. Zzzzz'a good plan, no? HOWEVER, I noticed two more issues / potential issues. For one when I placed the card down on the model I noticed that a 1 mm thick frame doesn't give much attachment points for a strip of card that is going to overlap half a mill each side. In fact, it is a royal pain in the behind especially if the dimensions of the side is not 100% spot on. I am currently debating if I want to do a vertical strip of about 1 cm wide paper or card along all the frames to supply more sticking area or whether I want to use 5 mm horizontal strips running along all frames to glue the side onto. The gun position closest to the bow only give me a width of 1 mm to play with, which would make option A tricky. Also glueing a number of strips along all frames would also 'arrest' the position of the frames with regards to the other frames so I'll probably go with option B unless someone can tell me why that would be a bad, bad, bad idea. The other issue has all to do with size. Remember the last carriage that I presented yesterday? It is visibly bigger than the 18 done before. And when I tried to place that carriage in one of its spots ..... ... it got stuck! Not only did it get stuck in that small section, the carriage was pointing away from the hole marks on the horizontals. The problem is that the Revenge needs a big carriage there because it is supposed to have a big canon there to be used as a sort-of chaser gun. Since I don't want to change the gun layout, just because I can't sort out a problem (i.e. replace the carriage with a smaller carriage and hope that A nobody will notice (which I will every time I look at it) AND B that the big canon will still fit in the smaller and lower down carriage). Then I suddenly thought ... hang on, If I'm gonna snip away the offending gun port frames, why not snip a little more and remove the (black) back wall of that section as well! It would only be the top of the frame that I remove, the rest below the gun deck will be left in place. Then with a bit of additional black paint, surely nobody would notice that? And it should allow me to 'swing' the carriage around to at least point in the right direction! The only drawback I can see at the moment is that the deck above it would lose a locating position but it would still have 4 locators from the other frames. Again, can anybody point out the flaw in my thinking? Please? Please send your answers on a postcard to 'The Blue Peter Syndicate', Postbox 76543210, Ingeland. I thank you for your kind attention and will return tomorrow to the glorious glueing of the gun port posts that will now fit! Till laterzzz! Adrie.
  6. Hi all! Again my thanks for the thumbs! It's locked away in a safe place, Richmond! Even better, I got a declaration from the Polish Post that they had received the package and that it is now waiting in the hub in Komorniki, waiting for the next part of the trip. As for posting charges to Ozzieland being higher when Australia is closer by I reckon the rowboats they need to get the package across are driving the costs up. For Britain they probably need just the one boat with crew where as for Australia ........... you do the maths. 😁 Mind you, I will hold judgement until I find out just how quick (slow) the British rowboat is. Anyway it was a good couple of days at my end. Tara..... 18 gun carriages present and accounted for! That's dem done, right? Uhh, wrong. Upon inspection of the assembly drawing ... I suddenly noticed that the carriages are supposed to have a little bit sticking out, probably to move the wedge block in and out. I checked that against some images on the internet and indeed they are there! In fact they show up for all carriages on the assembly drawings. I guestimate that they are about 0.5 mm thick and a couple of mm long. I can do that. I have 0.5 mm brass rod. So all I need to do is to drill a 0.5 mm hole in the middle wedge block component, insert a bit of brass, superglue it and presto! I love it when I come up with a plan! 0.5 mm drill .. CHECK! 0.5 mm brass rod .. CHECK! Hand drill holder ... Uhhhhh, I had one. I know for a fact that I had one. So where is it??!! Ahhh, that might have been in the box that was left in the old house because the movers apparently didn't have enough space in the van and which the house cleaners consequently threw away. Ok, three deep breaths ...... ok, three more deep breaths ......it's a conspiracy, I tell yah! It's ok. Everything is ok. Everything is wonderful. Right? Uhhh, yeah, if you say so. Anyway, they aren't that expensive and Ebay is always willing. I STILL have a plan, though! And that plan will work! Just not yet. Mind you, in the meantime I still have four more carriages to do, i.e. the larger ones. And here is the first one. And now we all wait. Breath in ..... breath out ..... breath in ..... breath out ..... 'S_not working! I need a stiff drink! Until laterzzzzzz. Adrie.
  7. FingerSticker

    QUICK-FIND INDEXES to BUILD LOGS FOR KITS

    Hi Dan, thanks for getting me on the list with the Revenge. As i was looking through all the card models, I noticed the Dreadnought model that you couldn't establish the brand for? I can confirm that that model is from Maly Modelarz (Little Modeller in Polish). I had that kit myself until it got coffee-ed all over. Not the best thing to do with a card model kit. 😥 Adrie.
  8. Hi all! Ron, thanks for the thumbs up. Much appreciated! So I thought it was time for a little update. First update: The first red carriage! I used a single layer of humbrol red, to allow the print on the parts to still shine through. Not too bad looking even though the refining of the cutting could have been a little better. But where the carriages will end up, you won't see much of this so I'm happy with the results. And with two carriages a day, I now have 12 completed with one only requiring the wheels to be glued on. And I now have enough to: Only 5 more medium carriages to do and 4 larger ones. Oh, and I have been a bad boy. Mostly because the mizzus kept nagging me to get the sails and masts and yards sets from Shipyard. Somehow I get the sneaking suspicion that she does not trust me the get them right without 'cheating'. Anyway. to maintain the peace in our household, I ordered a set of each from the Shipyard site yesterday. I tried the freehobbies site before that was listed in Richmond's build log for the Wolf but was a bit shocked to learn that they would charge me 50 dollars for P&P. Shipyard charged me 50 Zloty, which is about 11 quid in postage. Seeing that. when I get something from Ebay, postage will easily be 5 to 8 quid and since this comes from Poland, I reckon 11 quid is not too bad. I was pleasantly surprised to get an email this morning that about 10 hours after ordering, they had already organised the shipping! I don't know what the feeling is from the people here about ordering from Shipyard directly (or officially Vessel - Shipyard) but so far I can not fault them and I'll keep you all updated on the status of these. . I have also been thinking of changing the planning a bit. I think it would be good to cut out the first layer decking top pieces next since they hold the positions of the gun openings and I will use them to check whether the previously added gun post positions are correct. If not then I will remove the offending gun posts and add them to the back of the planking card. At least it should give me the right position to glue down the gun carriages. But that will be roughly 5 days away from now. So with four wheels to glue down, Till laterzzzz, all! Adrie.
  9. Not a problem, Richmond. Post already amended to link up better. Adrie.
  10. Richmond, I AM looking forward to looking in on your Wolf build. Glad most of it is now resolved. Adrie. P.S. Wasn't there some popcorn on offer?
  11. I have seen Shipyard sell rigging threads of 0.1 mm. Never seen them in the 'flesh' or used them, mind you. But perhaps someone here has? Oh, and not really sure what the thickness of normal sewing thread is, either. Adrie.
  12. Hmmmmm. Ok, if this works now, then: Chris, I would suggest using common sewing thread and a 50/50 mixture of PVA/water. Dry it under weight for a night (clothes peg will do for weight) and the thread will become surprisingly stiff. It is best to push the thread under the liquid level and to use your fingers to remove the excess liquid and also force the sticking out fibres to line up with the thread. Adrie.
  13. I tried to respond to this but I got the following failure screen! This happened on my PC at work as well on the PC at home!
  14. Sorry if I am thick, Chris but how exactly are you failing to complete the assemblies? What is gong wrong, and even better, what is going right? Adrie.

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