grsjax

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About grsjax

  • Birthday 03/01/1951

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Big Island, Hawaii
  • Interests
    Small boats, Steam Navy

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  1. A very good model for a second build is the Model Shipways kit of the Skipjack "Willie Bennett". Enough detail to make it interesting but not so complicated as to be beyond a second time builder.
  2. The seig X1 mill is a good one for model making. It is sold under a number of brand names in both the US and Europe. Good basic machine that will do anything you need to do for model building. Will require some adjustment to get the best from it. First pic. Another good one and better than the X1 is the Micro Lux 84656 micro mill. Micro Mark no longer sells it but it is available from other distributors or direct from China. A very good mill with ball bearings on the X-Y and Z axis. Second pic. I have worked with both and both are completely adequate for the type of work you want to do. Just my opinion better to spend half as much on the mill and the rest to by accessories when the lower price tool will do the job needed.
  3. Could be discoloration from the rubber jaws. Another possibility is moisture. All air has some moisture and space between the jaws and the hull would be a place that you might get some minor condensation. If the marks disappear after a few days that is probably the answer.
  4. I have one like that. Works really well and has glass lens. I think I paid about US$12 for them on eBay.
  5. Born in Anchorage Alaska a long time ago. Since then all over the USA and 10 years in Europe. Retired and moved to Hawaii 7 years ago. Heritage of German, French, English and who knows what else.
  6. I would think that anything the size of a ship of the lines keel would require bolting as well as wedging. Keels were made up of as many as 7 pieces and must have been under tremendous stress and strain all the time. If I remember correctly there were a couple of different methods of making the scarp in the keel one of which did use a wedge in a similar manner.
  7. Although more elaborate this is pretty much the same method used in the Royal Dock Yards to splice together the long keels of large ships.
  8. There are several low temp silver solder pastes available. I purchased some from Amazon and have been pretty happy with it. You have to be careful if you are soldering several pieces together because the earlier joints will soften and/or melt if the piece gets to hot.
  9. Thought I had a lot of kits stashed away. I realize now that I am just a piker when it comes to hoarding model kits.
  10. Did some searching for Polybak online and found this vendor that sells single 49"x97" sheets. Don't know what they charge as you need to setup a business account to see the prices. https://www.wurthlac.com/storefront/pre-fab-components/backing-sheets/polybak-backing-sheet-paint-grade-011-thick-49-x-97-/prodPCCLPGBTN.html Here is another vendor that will provide laserboard (not sure what kind) custom cut to your specs and also sells sheets (from 12"x12") of the material. http://automatedartists.com/laserboard
  11. That looks like twisted wire rope to me.
  12. Could you post a closeup picture of the wire? I would like to see what kind of wire you are using. Thanks
  13. When I attempted it to do it that way the twist was either to loose, or the twisted wire would kink. Never could get wire rope that actually looked like the real thing. BTW wire rope is usually made with more than 3 wires. Common classifications are 7x7, 7x19, 6x26, 6x36 and 19x7 strands. There are other configurations but these are most common.
  14. You might be right. Just going with what I have observed. When I heat a piece of steel and let it cool it bends easier. Of course that might be highly dependent on type of steel and how hot I got it. Didn't do any scientific experiments, just what I observed in practice.
  15. Making twisted wire rope isn't easy, even at small scales. Takes a lot of tension to keep the twist tight. A regular rope walk probably wouldn't be enough.