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About grsjax

  • Birthday 03/01/1951

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Big Island, Hawaii
  • Interests
    Small boats, Steam Navy

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  1. Probably true but with a 1/16", 20TPI blade it is really amazing what can be done with a band saw. I have a Sears brand one for a 3 wheel 10" bench top band saw. Not sure if Sears still sells them. That said it's your workshop, your money and your Admiral you have to convince so go for what works for you.
  2. If you don't have one already maybe you should consider getting a small bandsaw rather than a new scroll saw. In my opinion a small bandsaw will do everything a scroll saw will do and do it better. Just my .02 and your mileage may vary.
  3. I will get some pics of the gun parts asap. Good photo. Has a lot of detail I haven't seen before.
  4. I have a Billings Boats kit of the HMS Renown's 50ft Steam Pinnace kit #604. Looks like a pretty good kit with better than average instructions for a Billings kit. Problem is the assembly instructions for the 3pr gun mounted in bows of the boat. The problem is there doesn't seem to be any. A few poor quality pictures of the gun and the picture on the box is about all the info there is. Some of the assembly is obvious but it would be nice if there were actual instructions or at least a diagram of how the parts fit together. I don't know if there is something missing from the kit instructions or I am just overlooking something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Your favorite saying

    There ain't no such thing as a free lunch
  6. Hawaiian Wood

    https://kamuelahardwoods.com/ Kamuela hardwoods is the only one I have direct experience with. There are a few others but I do not know if they will deal is small quantities and by mail.
  7. Hawaiian Wood

    Hawaii is one of those places where almost any kind of tree will grow. Unfortunately apple, pear, walnut and boxwood are not among the trees that thrive here. Below is a picture of some of the common wood found in this area. There are many more species but this is what I had on hand to photograph so I will start there and possibly in the future add others. From left to right they are causarina, tropical almond, mango, albiza, lemon, ohia, milo and avocado. Causarina, also known as Australian pine, she oak, iron wood and river oak is a tree native to Australia. Introduced in Hawaii as a wind break tree. The wood is hard with a moderate grain and red coloring varied from a very light red brown sap wood to a dark red heart wood. To coarse for exterior use on a model that is going to be finished bright but and excellent wood for framing that will remain hidden. Tends to crack during drying and bleed dark read sap when first cut. Doesn't seem to be a good wood for bending. Tropical Almond is a tree native to the south Pacific and may be native to Hawaii but there is some that think it was introduced after European contact. Popular shade tree in seaside parks. Similar to a tree native to Hawaii called Kamani or Hawaiian oak. Hard wood with a light brown sap wood and darker brown heart wood. Nice grain and works easily. Fairly hard with a moderate grain. To coarse for exterior use unless painted but other wise a good wood to work with. Very good for display base and/or cabinet. Mango. Common in tropical areas. Beautiful grain but way to coarse for model building. The dust and sap can cause irritation and rash. Albiza. Native to India and is the fastest growing tree in the world. Considered a trash tree in Hawaii but has nice wood with some interesting properties. Very light, heavier than balsa but lighter than basswood. Very strong for it weight but has a coarse, stringy texture. Works easily and holds fastenings fairly well. Does not bend well. Makes a great wood for fillers and backing pieces and can be used for a solid hull that will be planked over. Lemon. This piece is from a Meyer lemon tree my neighbor cut down. Unfortunately is laid on the ground in the rain for several days before I found out about it. Hard, tight grained wood that saws, carves and turns well. Very susceptible to insect attack and staining if not seasoned and stored correctly. Very good all around modeling wood. Ohia is the most common native tree in Hawaii and is found no where else. Scientific names is polymorphus because it can grown in a large variety of forms from a low spreading bush to a giant a hundred feet tall and 3 feet thick at the base depending on the conditions. Hard, dense and close grained wood. Will crack if not sealed as soon as it is cut and seasoned correctly. Has been used for outrigger canoes, flooring, furniture, musical instruments, turning and carving. Color varies from medium brown to a very dark, reddish brown. In general an excellent wood for modeling especially for dark parts finished bright. Milo is another tree native to Hawaii and found on other south Pacific islands. Beautiful wood for carving. Moderately hard with a close grain. Light brown sap wood and dark brown heart wood. Some really old trees have heart wood that is very nearly black. Common in coastal areas where there is a source of fresh water. Tends to have a very convoluted, multi-trunk structure so finding long, straight pieces is unusual. An excellent wood for model building. Avocado. Common tree in warm climates including southern California and Florida. Wood is a light brown with a grain that varies from tight and straight to wavy with flecks. Good wood for general purpose use in model building but the grain can be a problem.
  8. I was using water based paints. So far no problems with wicking on basswood. I use the blunt end of an exacto knife handle to press it down well before applying the paint.
  9. My wife the artist introduced me to this stuff. I tried it out on a piece of raw basswood sheet and it produced very good results. Easy to apply and cut. Left a sharp edge after painting and removal. Anyone have experience with this item and is there anything to watch out for when using it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QVBQBG/ref=twister_B01DTEDTEW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  10. Ship in a Bottle

    Simple 18th Century sloop, approximately 1:300 scale. First attempt at building a ship in a bottle.
  11. Billing No.514 Niels Juel

    This is way out of date but if you still need info here is a link to a build log on a Dutch site that has pictures of the parts sheets. https://www.modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=25936
  12. Motor oil may be to thick for your machine. A lighter machine oil would be better. A lot of different places should carry what you need. The same type of oil is used to lubricate fishing reels, sewing machines, small motors and other light equipment. Not sure if it is still available or sold in the UK if it is but the old standby household oil called 3 in 1 oil would be a good choice. If nothing all else fails ask at a hardware store for light machine oil.
  13. Small boat models

    Ran across a series of small boat models from a manufacture that must not be named. What I would like to know is who is the legit manufacture of these kits? There are 4 or 5 ranging from a small jolly boat up to a barge and they come in scales from 1/96 to 1/35. I thought they might be copies of Master Korabel or Falkonet kits but comparing pictures of the kits I came to the conclusion that they weren't. Anyone know who makes the legit versions of these kits? I would like to find out and maybe build a couple of them.
  14. Wood Quality in old kits

    Depends on the wood and the conditions it was stored under. I have used wood from some 40 year old kits that needed some soaking in warm water to keep it from splintering but was other wise fine. On the other hand some wood only a few years old can be to dry and brittle to use.
  15. How to handle fresh wood?

    If you have some way to cut the log into to boards it will speed up drying. Remove the bark, cut the slabs 1 or 2 inches thick and seal the ends with a thick coat of paint or wax (anchor seal works very well). Stack the boards with short pieces of wood between them to let the air circulate around the wood freely. If you cannot get the log sawn this way it will also work to quarter it or simply split it in two. Anything you do to increase the surface area will help speed up the drying.