1492

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About 1492

  • Birthday 08/12/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Building small scale ships
  1. Hi Chuck, as a woodworker in another life my advise is to get your chisels 'scary' sharp and pare down on the work as you sneak up to the line you have marked by grasping the chisel very close to the tip (but keep a safe distance back)- this gives you the best control possible.. Don't hammer the work piece and just sneak up slowly rather than trying to remove large chunks quickly.
  2. Don't forget this detailed site dedicated to this kit alone: http://www.sanjuannepomuceno.co.uk/
  3. The model is pretty much complete, It's sitting in dry-dock (covered) waiting on a case to put it in. I just need to put the whole lot together (masts and sails are still not attached) but that won't take me too long at all. I used this 'fictional' boat as an experimental model more than anything else. I used severe rusting on the hand rails, Verdi Gris effect on the rudder hinges, built my own fittings and discarded the kit’s fittings, made nicer bowsprit and masts compared to the kit supplied ones, used the fine tile grout effect for the plank caulking, etc. I applied many thinned down coats of acrylic paint because I didn't want to lose the wood grain underneath that can otherwise make the painted areas look too 'plastic'. The model was finished with some weathering. Because it’s a test model I haven’t been in a big hurry to display it. Besides the admiral has not allocated me any extra space.
  4. Why not use both? This is an old photo of my version of AL's Swift. I use paint for bulwarks, wales and masts (not shown). Then I tried to blend the finishes so it looks 'natural'.
  5. Thanks Janos, That's really good information, I appreciate your help because I've had these photos for a while and no other instructions to go by.
  6. I have been following this topic with interest and it reminded me of some old pictures I kept on my PC from the MSW 0.1. I know this is slightly off topic but thought it may be interesting for those interested in making cheapo profile mill bits. These were from the build log of the Panteleymon by Russian master builder Alex Baranov. It is a pictorial tutorial that may come in useful to some:
  7. Thanasis, Can you please provide more information on the circular saw you have in the picture? Is it home made? If it is can you let us know how you made it and how it works?
  8. Daniel. That seems more like extreme miniatures. The Models in Philip Reed's book has full exposed framing below the waterline. Allan, Thanks, I'll look into the books you have suggested, I was only curious if anyone here had followed Mr Reed's techniques.
  9. Has anyone ever built a ship following the techniques shown in this book? By that I mean building in the miniature scale and building the top and bottom of the hulls separately? Mr Reed has a very interesting way of building his highly detailed miniatures. I have an immense interest in this scale because of the limited space I have to work with. It's also fascinating and challenging to get that much accuracy at such small scales. This type of ship is also very aesthetically appealing. I know that I am moving in this direction with my current builds but I'd like to know from anyone here whether they've tried it and whether they've enjoyed it. The ship shown in the main part of the book may be beyond me right now but some of his other samples at the rear of the book look like they can be done.
  10. Does anyone have an opinion on this scroll saw?: http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-scroll-saw-for-hobby-use,7114.html It looks very similar to the Proxxon DS230: http://www.proxxonworld.com.au/product/scroll_saw_ds_230_e_220-240v
  11. Pat All three , I liked what I saw in the photos you posted of your workshop
  12. Blue Ensign, Thanks for the information, I'm building AL Swift at the moment, I would like to use this on the rudder hinges and some other small pieces. Eventually I want to build a coppered hull and weather the entre ship including this effect below the waterline. Mike, That is really is a nice natural effect on your copper. When you say it's a slow process do you mean slow for the effect to appear or the amount of coats required to reach this stage?
  13. Hi John, Wow, I did not know that was you at the modelmakers desk. I have been there many times (mostly on Sundays). Are those ships on display your models? If they are I am very impressed with the precise planking- done by a very gifted craftman.
  14. I was just wondering if anyone has techiques to weather copper to look like Blue Ensign's coppered hull? http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/67-so-where-do-you-do-yours-then-ship-building-that-is/#entry613 I think this liooks authentic and would like to try it out in some of the areas of my build.