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About capnharv2

  • Birthday 11/15/1955

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  • Location
    Puget Sound
  • Interests
    Sailing ship models, sailing, restoring old wooden boats

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  1. Ed, Earlier you said "Only lines 4" and above on my model use made rope." I was wonder earlier, is this 4" diameter or 4" circumference? I prefer working with diameters, but am aware that circumference was used historically Thanks for the clarification. Harvey
  2. capnharv2

    What type of wood is this?

    I ordered the same stuff from ME years ago. It didn't look like any of the other boxwood I had, so I chalked it up to experience. It's sitting around someplace. Maybe I'll need some expensive firewood . . . Harvey
  3. Ed, I remember your concern about the fragility of the iron backstay spreaders. Has the addition of the first backstays helped that concern? Harvey
  4. Finishing up standing rigging on my Connie
  5. CaptainSteve, I'm sorry to hear that you won't be finishing your Constitution. Your build log was always a joy to visit, and hope you find a suitably fun project soon. I'm still hammering away on my Connie, after 11 years. Slow progress, but steady. Take care my friend, Capnharv
  6. Okay, I understand. Thanks! Harvey
  7. I'm confused. Is this last pic before spraying with the Model Master Black, or did you take all the black off? Nice build I always wanted to build the plastic model as a kid. Harvey
  8. Roger, His follow on book "Easy on the Helm" is also fun reading. I'm not sure of it's applicability to gaff cutter modeling, but it's interesting and insightful. I need to dig it out again. Never sailed a gaffer? If you're ever in Seattle, drop me a line (I know a guy . . . .). Seriously, one of the joys of sailing traditional rigs and building models of traditional rigs is the synergy it brings to both hobbies. I've had countless experiences on Amie that helped me build a better model, and countless times my (limited) ship model experience has helped me become a better sailor. That's why I strongly recommend going aboard and (if possible) take a short sail on a traditional boat. I believe you can build and rig a better model because of it. Thanks! Harvey
  9. Hmm. I've got planks on my boat that look like that . . . Thanks for the tutorial Chuck. I'll try that on the next garboard I install. Harvey
  10. One other place to look (it may be a red herring, but it's a nice red herring) is the Wooden Boat Forum. This thread is done by a Mystic Seaport Volunteer and documents some of the rebuilding of the Morgan a couple years ago. http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?109593-Charles-W-Morgan-Restoration-A-Volunteer-s-Perspective-1 Again, it may not be very relevant, but it sure is fun to read and look at. Hope that helps. Harvey
  11. Frank, Thanks for posting this. I had read about the rescue recently, but the details provided again show that the sea can be cruel. I have a feeling this will show up in our local sailing magazine soon. Harvey
  12. capnharv2

    Tying Off Standing Rigging.

    If you're using the pre-formed eyebolts, I like to slice the shank with an x-acto knife (cutting away from the eye). This creates a little 'spur' at the knife cut that will slide into the hole but won't pull out (without some effort). You don't have to cut much-enough to displace a little of the metal. Different adhesives will help. Angling the eyebolt in the deck works. Or, as Frankie suggested, making your own. Hope these suggestions help. Harvey
  13. Al, Are you looking to hang the plans near your work area to measure them? Does thee backing have to be firm enough to lay a scale or compass or dividers on? Another possibility is to take the original plans and have them laminated (or get a copy laminated). That makes them easier to hang and stiffer to get accurate measurements off. If they're stiff enough you could hang them off the back of a music stand. Tape them in place and you can move the stand anywhere you want at any height you want. For a while I was taping my Pride of Baltimore plans to the blinds in my shop. Not a great solution, but it did get the job done. Finally, get a copy of the first set of Ship Modelers Shop Notes (from the NRG store here). There is a section with some good shop ideas. Hope we've helped. Thanks, Harvey
  14. That's a great was to spile planks Frankie. My only problem is snagging a fingernail (or sometimes finger) on the blade as I pull the plank across. Also, did you modify the kit for the deeper keel and larger stem? Just curious. Looks like a great start. And I agree with using cabinet scrapers. I love the finish it gives the wood when you're done. Thanks, Harvey

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