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michaelmys

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    Nelson, New Zealand

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  1. michaelmys

    Gluintg metal to wood

    I absolutely agree with Ulises that two part epoxy is the only way to go. While what jud says is true, I think that, with the small size of the parts involved, the amount of expansion/contraction will be insufficient to disturb the integrity of the glue joint or that the forces involved will be insufficent to cause any significant distortion. I agree that the traditional method of mixing epoxy, by squeezing out two equal sized puddles of glue and hardener onto a surface and mixing gives rise to significant waste. I picked up the following "toothpick" method from a 1/43 scale car modelling site a few years ago, and found it fantastic at cutting down both waste and mess. It lets you mix up nano amounts of epoxy, with the result that 5ml tubes seem to last forever. You need a pile of tooth picks, and a decent sized mixing surface, as well as a suitable epoxy - I tend to use a 5 minute epoxy for convenience, although will use a longer set if maximum strength is required. I place the glue and a single toothpick on one side of the work area, and the hardener and the rest of the toothpicks on the other. Open both tubes, and squeeze gently until glue and hardener fill the nozzles of the tubes. Using the single toothpick scoop out just enough glue out of the nozzle to do the job, and trasfer to the mixing surface. Place both glue and toothpick back, and well away from the hardener. I Ihen dig out the equal amount of hardener from its tube with one of the tothpicks from the pile, and use that toothpick to mix up the adhesive. That tothpick is also used as the applicator. Discard the toothpick with mixed adhesive on it, and you're ready to go again. I recycle the glue toothpick, and use a fresh toothpick from the pile for hardener. Keeping track of the tothpicks is essential - introducing the mixed glue toothpick back into the glue tube, or the glue toothpick into the hardener tube spell disaster. With a bit of practice, you can easily mix up sub-millimetre drops of glue. Hope that's helpful. Cheers! Michael
  2. michaelmys

    America's Cup 35!

    Stability and streamlining according to the commentators. The desired attitude is bow down, and windward hull down apparently. Not sure why, they ddin't expalin that bit. I have to say I miss the old style cup with monohulss, where seamanship and true sailing skills were on display - spinnakers blowing out, and crew members going up the mast to free jammed halyards - all that kind of thing. Having said that, I find the new style racing tremendously exciting, and compulsive vieweing. But it ain't sailing Cheers! Michael
  3. Hi Jonny I was actually referring to the walnut ply box which the mortar sits in. It drops into the wide notch in the keel in front of the main mast step. I had to enlarge that slot, both in width and depth before the box would fit in snugly. If you attach the false deck before you check that fit, then you've lost access to the sides of the cut out, so you can't file them down, and will end up having to cut grooves in the side of the box, or otherwise thin them down somehow, which would be much harder. I'll try and take a picture later. Cheers! Michael
  4. Hi Jonny I have a Convulsion also, started several years ago, but stalled at a pre-planking stage as family life intervened. The only critical gotcha I can think of is to dry fit the keel and bulkheads, and before you glue them, to assemble the housing for the mortar, and check its fit in the hull assembly. In mine the notches were a bit too narrow, and needed filed out a bit before the housing would sit comfortably in place. If you wait until the deck is laid before you try out the mortar housing, you are way too late to fix it easily. Cheers! Michael
  5. Check out www.wires.co.uk They have a huge range of wires in all sorts of materials, and sizes down to 0.1mm, which is approximately 0.004 inch. They have posted to me in New Zealand, and the service was quick, and the shipping rates very reasonable (although I can't remember exactly what they were). It's sold by weight, so you get a ridiculous amount of the thinner wires. For example, a 125g reel of 0.1mm copper wire contains 1790 metres of wire! That should last for a few models! Cheers! Michael

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