Crowe
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Everything posted by Crowe
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Check out Matt Cremona on you tube. He just cut up an old log and shows you what to look for on the outside and what you find inside.
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I shipped a model across country with regular movers. I had a acrate built by a pro and screwed the base of the of the model to the bottom of the crate. No other packing material or fasteners. Not a single piece out of place
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My handy Lie-Nielsen Violin Maker's Block Plane
Crowe replied to Mike Shea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Great tool. Feels great, nice weight and shape -
I had a hard time getting a really good edge on the LV bronze spokeshaves. But the one from the minature LV .set is great steel and takes a great edge. I can use it with one hand in very tight quarters.
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I am getting nice consistent depths on deck beam cuts such as for fitting to ledges. Staying consistent on a curved surface is difficult and the router plane follows it easily. In the past I would have used a chisel and saw but it is tough to stay true. the router does this and any other dado or slot has as a proper depth.I have been replacing all my 'modelling tools' with real woodworking tools, though they are small they perform as the full size tool does
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I have all the planes except for the edger. they are real tools and the router plane has changed everything for me. I did have an issue with the block plane, just don"t tighten the locking knob too much and your ok. If you really sharpen the irons they will make incredible shavings. I'm not a fan of the chisels
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try a shop vac if you have one. You can blue tape it to the outlet tube.
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I have recently started using Old Brown and must say I like it very much. You need to warm the bottle in hot tap water and it works like most other wood glues. I was interested in the property of not interfering with absorbtion of stains and shellacs. It has no major odor , which has been a shot on some hide glues. It does need 24 hrs to fully cure but it tacks up quickly and is handy for difficult glue ups. I will use titebond 3 in places that will be covered but old brow on planks and other areas where the wood will show and only have a shellac finish.
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If you read the magazine review make sure you read the comments. They are very telling.
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I've worked with sharp knives in a kitchen. I got my share of nicks and cuts, lost my pinkie fingertip but otherwise all is intact. But I started wearing a cut proof glove as I got older when my hands didn't always do eactly as I wanted them too. Once you commit to the glove it is a lot easier to get used to. One thing to do to increase sensitivity is put a rubber glove over the cutproof. Also it is not the nice controlled cut that will get you its the one where the unexpected happens. I have a nice 2 inch scar on my wrist . I was using a Japanese razor saw when the wood suddenly split and the saw swerverd into me. The arm was 18" away from the saw. Nearly put me out of the game and scared the crap out of me.
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I used it on my Confederacy. It starts out very yellow and smells like pepper when you cut it. But as it ages it mellows to an almost golden. I finished it with a artists varnish and its really easy on the eyes. If I can figure it out I'll post a pic of the ship. One caveat, it was a bit difficult to bend. Tony this was at nearly done in build, but I dont think I varnished it yet(memory is shot) after a few years in a case If any can help me right my ship I'll consider salvage rights LOL
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While I think of it , I should mention the use of a dust mask when sanding or any other operation that creates sawdust. The dust can be irritating. Tony.
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I love this wood. Great light color and holds a wonderful edge. Its also nice and flexible. BTW there is another thread somewhere discussing this topic .I have just started a POF Sussex with Bradford Pear frames from trees that fell in Huricaine Sandy.
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By shear coincidence I have Just broke down a batch of Bradford pear that I salvaged from the trees in front of my house downed by Hurricane Sandy. I ripped the logs into pieces about 4in square painted the ends and stored them in a unheated shed since Nov 2112. When cut the wood absolutely weeped water and quickly turned a golden color.It held this color all the while it was stored. I did not do a moisture test but it was much lighter than when it went in the shed And after cutting away the outside the wood inside is the most wonderful creamy white wood that is quite nice to work with. I used a previous batch in my Prince model. It can be brittle when overly bent, but holds a sharp edge and keeps the cream color even after sealing. If I can be of any other help just ask. Tony
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I don't want to hijack this thread, but this is a sample of what I am talking about on the Prince plans The plan of the bow <My bow from photos The bow from Prince in Science Museum
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I can't tell you about any other plans except for the ones I have. I was going to do POF too , but the plans were so bad it was impossible. I really can't say enough about how poor they are. I nearly canned the whole project, but decided to go on as an excercise to prepare me for the Sussex. The plans enclosed in the book seem to be right on the money. I am a scratch builder so I am going to try to do all the carvings as well as construction of hull. I just wish I could figure out how to carve a better human figure. No museum will ever hold my models but from 2 feet away they look pretty good LOL. Tony
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Brian, the plans I got are from an Italian firm Tecnomodels from Taubman plans. They are 1:60 scale and so wrong that in places 2 different sheets show the same area as completly different. Also they are in Italian which is not as big a problem as the fact they just stink. I have resorted to using 2 other sources for correct info, photos of the London Science Museum model and the magnificent model by Mile Bijelic. I have decided to move forward from where I stopped using the plans and do the best I can even though some of the measurements are out of whack and some fudging is needed. But I am learning to carve a lot better and I have learned a lot fixing mistakes.
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I too purchased the book for my next build I am currently building HMS Prince 1670. I recently moved to a much smaller workshop and thought that Prince (my first POF in 30 yrs, scratch built) would be a good warm up for the Sussex. I am currently waiting for the pearwood I cut after Sandy to season and it will go into the Sussex. The plans seem to be very good and it will be a pleasure to work from a good set after the garbage that I bought for the Prince.
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If any body needs blades for the old Dremel jig saw contact me I have some left and they're yours. Tony
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I have used a similar technique. Icut the individual planks double thick then glue them up with a Titebond glue with a bit of black paint mixed in. when its dried I run the glue up throug the thickness sander and the result is very convincinng as to the color and thickness of the caulking. I have not had any issues with glue strength even on models 30 years old. Tony
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