realworkingsailor

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About realworkingsailor

  • Birthday 06/04/1978

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  1. At what scale are you planning to build? Check out Deans Marine https://www.deansmarine.co.uk/ Andy
  2. There are many possibilities as to what type of steam engine you are looking for... having a manufacturer's name helps enormously. Unless your movie has a clear close up of the engine builder's plate, you're probably out of luck... Your first black and white photograph appears to be a fairly typical triple expansion engine (high pressure cylinder, exhausting to a medium pressure cylinder, exhausting to a low pressure cylinder). The other engine looks to be a four cylinder compound engine, with two high pressure cylinders exhausting into two low pressure cylinders, but not a quadruple expansion engine. Andy
  3. Hi Mark, if anything, my original topic should be pruned a little bit. There was considerable discussion on the perils of wood dust, and although equally valid, my intent was to focus on the actual chemicals, glues and paints etc. Perhaps after pruning, my thread could be pinned as requested, in the appropriate forum, with the added caveat that the topic is to be restricted to posting verifiable factual information (ie MSDSs). I feel the last bit is important because of the amount of hysteria and miss-information, and obsolete information, surrounding certain substances (and I have seen some of it sneek into discussions on MSW). Andy
  4. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4150-the-hazardous-chemicals-we-use/#comment-117810 Started this a long time ago. Andy
  5. Another great way to ruin them is to over torque the thumb screw. I had a couple of clamps that I over torqued and the screw broke free of the knurled bit. I had to break the thing to get it to detach. Andy
  6. I have a set of those as well. They work... kind of. As mentioned they are soft metal, and the clamp part deforms and breaks easily. I substituted mine with cut off bits of limewood and that seems to work just as well. Also, you may wish to put some heat shrink tubing on the "knurled screw" it will save your fingers! Andy
  7. The Bluenose used a worm steering gear mounted directly on the rudder head. These systems have to be perpendicular to the rake of the rudder, so if turned around, in the case of the Bluenose, the helmsman would have been positioned somewhere under and behind the counter (the overhang at the stern), not very comfortable or convenient! Andy
  8. Hi Chris, The two are basically the same model, but the Pegasus was issued at a later date with a few upgrades (copper sheeting, laser cut gun carriages) There is an upgrade kit for the Fly also available to bring it to the same level as the Pegasus, but overall either one makes a nice ship. The instructions are fairly reasonable and the plans are well drawn, the bonus being that if you want, you can use the Fully Framed Model (TFFM) series of books and downscale from 1:48 to 1:64 for some of the simplified details, as well as the rigging. Andy
  9. Hi John, Interesting little coaster. I wonder if your mystery object may be part of a sounding machine, given its proximity to the bridge wing. Have a look here at and example and how it may have been used Your ship comes from the right period when echo sounders were still very new and expensive, as compared to manual means. Andy
  10. Personally I would love to try a fully framed model, but lack the tools and skills to build completely from scratch. My main interest lies towards period ships (18th century-ish), which is well represented in the kit market as far as POB models go. Every person has their own particular favourite era, and saying we need more of this era, or that era might not be the best if that particular era is not of the greatest interest to the largest number of potential kit buyers. Sorry to upset all the foamers (the ones who foam at the mouth over their particular favourite subject, and yes that includes myself). Seems to be for larger-ish ships 1:48 is the ideal scale for POF work, but other scales are not unheard of. As for price, I would expect something around the $500 to $800 mark, at the very least, for something along the lines of a small sloop. So yes, I would love to see a 1:48 POF kit of the HM Snow Ontario, but I would still be interested for virtually any available POF kit of a ship in that same era. Andy
  11. I seem to recall building that kit when I was a kid (the name seems familiar) Very basic kit, simplistic fittings, not any great challenge to build. Andy
  12. I have a set of these: http://www.micromark.com/spike-insertion-plier,8242.html They work brilliantly. No slips, no bent nails. Andy
  13. If you look carefully at the Dutch drawing, on the side elevation, you can make out two transverse bulb-angle iron beams. So there was definitely something solid over the boiler. (you can see some thickness in the detail sketch on page 1). On a sea-going ship, you wouldn't want a huge open area like that. (Wouldn't even be allowed!). Andy
  14. I'm not sure it would be "tacking" by design. Anyone who's tried to paddle a canoe against a moderate current knows you spend a lot of time just trying to keep the thing going up river, trying to avoid having it take off sideways. You're most welcome! Although I can't help but throw another spanner in the works! I'm going over the drawings, and I can't seem to locate the air supply. A boiler (or pair of boilers) of this size would draw a considerable amount of air when being fired. I wonder if at least one pair of those openings are used to rig up some form of air scoop. Do you have any further drawings? Andy