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Everything posted by Papa
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Thanks. She has been done for a while. I just neglected to post a photo.
- 294 replies
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- charles w morgan
- model shipways
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- charles w morgan
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I have one last belaying point to tie up and put a rope loop on. The model has been in my study for months now and I just can’t get the enthusiasm to clean up that last pin. It looks great as is and one has to look closely to see the loose line. Also I should probably add some more gear in the whale boats. I just totally lost interest. ps, the untied line is for the cutting stage.
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- charles w morgan
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The belaying key labels on my Gjoa sail plan are all in English except for one pin labeled ørefiken. I assume this is Norwegian as Gjoa was a Norwegian ship. Can someone translate this for me? Google translate isn’t helpful. It says it means cuff or slap on the face. thanks
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David, you say you are in the Boston area. I grew up in Saugus, MA and lived on Robinson st. Small world
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The hatch was not too difficult other than cutting accurate miters on 1/16 x 1/16 strip wood. That cabin was a problem. The kit provided a solid block of wood that matched the overall dimensions but I struggled with the window frames. Eventually I decided to make them from cards stock and I was lucky enough to have some brass rings in my parts box that were a good fit for the portholes.
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Gjoa was used by Roald Amundsen to traverse the North West Passage from 1903 to 1906. She was built in 1872 and used as a herring fisher until Amundsen purchased her in 1901. This kit is an old Model Shipways “yellow box” kit that I purchased on eBay several years ago. These kits have minimal instructions and just a few parts: a machine shaped solid hull, some blocks for deck houses that are never the right size, dowels for masts and yards, and a bag of metal fittings. I worked on the kit off and on over the last several years but failed to take any photos. Once I finished the paper model of the liner United States I decided to attack the Gjoa seriously. Attached are a few photos showing the construction of the cap rails and the pin rails. For the cap rails I traced the out line of the bulwarks onto a piece of sheet wood, widened the line to the cap rail width, leaving plenty of extra wood. The rough rails were then glued in place and shaped to fit. The pin rails were done similarly with lots of test fitting with final shaping after they were glued in place. In the photo the port side pin rail has just been glued .
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