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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Oh you guys! You lot have it all wrong - it is Aus that is on the right side of the sphere; not strange at all See told ya: Why sit indoors, be cold and all rugged up to celebrate Christmas? The above picture from Keith A says it all (well except for a celebratory drink in hand). While I am on the subject, for years you guys have also got it all wrong WRT Santa's sleigh. It wasn't flown with reindeers, but rather with 'boomers' (yeah the sound they make when they bounce off the ground ); the only problem is they end up making for a lot more road maintenance BTW Keith, turkey on the Barbie is 'delicious' mmmm mmm. cheers Pat
  2. Very nice work Glen, really starting to come together now. I think the turned down leading rails also look the part - good choice. cheers Pat
  3. Thanks Mark and Bruce, appreciate your kind comments. Keith (LOL), love the out-of-the-box thinking. Also helps with mixing the nightly cocktail I feel I am getting better each day, and once I have finished all the delayed Spring chores and summer maintenance, I hope to devote much more time to the model - hopefully very early in the new year. In the meantime I am still tinkering with how to make those tops 'come-together' and sorting out some much neglected fixes in the workshop (mainly dust collection). cheers Pat
  4. Thanks for good wishes Keith B, Keith A and John, much appreciated. It was a light dose John but it has had some lingering effects WRT lethargy Pushing through that seems to help - have to avoid sitting down in the 'gobble-up' chair in the afternoons or I find myself dozing. Now to get on top of these darn 'tremors' - sometimes I spread more glue over the desk than on the piece. cheers Pat
  5. Those figures and the ballista will really set the upper deck off Ian; looking forward to see them in situ eventually. cheers Pat
  6. Good to hear the first one went well mate; best wishes for a successful second op. Watch out though, the improved clarity may show some things you would prefer not to see (like wrinkles etc) cheers Pat
  7. Thanks Rob, much appreciated. Updates are slow as just as I was getting back into it I came down with Covid (first time) and now trying to catch up on all the spring chores before Christmas. I hope to be up to speed and back into the workshop after Christmas. cheers Pat
  8. Great progress Glen (wish I could report the same). Neat solution to connecting the hulls but still able to pass through the mouth of the bottle. cheers Pat
  9. Good luck with the eye surgery, as you say quite a routine thing these days. Hope the recovery is fast and brings the desired results. cheers Pat
  10. A great, and very interesting, concept for this build Glen; another exciting project to follow. I'll be right up in the front stalls with my popcorn and will do my best not to spill any onto the project cheers Pat
  11. Astounding detail at that scale Eberhard, the additional detail you are fitting brings the model to life. cheers Pat
  12. Some great progress Ian, and glad to hear you are enjoying this part of the build. I also like that idea for the eagle decoration; it would really set things off. Are your figures going to be articulated to allow movement with the oars? (sorry may have missed this) cheers Pat
  13. Thanks for looking in and kind comments Keith. You are right, with a little hindsight I agree that there are a couple of solutions for the bending jig. The biggest issue is being able to bend the full length of the lip in one effort. cheers Pat
  14. Not 100% sure, but that description sounds very much like the 4-jaw chuck for Sherline? Also, not sure if that is self-centering - I think they have both versions? Someone with a bit more knowledge of the technical attributes may be able to confirm or eliminate this as an option? cheers Pat
  15. That's great John, very nice to see the progress. As Druxey says, it will also be nice to see regular updates on the restoration project if it goes ahead. cheers Pat
  16. Glad to hear that the machine worked well for you Keith. I did have plans to eventually fit limit (cut-out) switches but never got around to it. I must confess though, that the plans/schematics for this were provided by a club member and some of the metal work done with the assistance of mechanically gifted friend. For those interested, the server is designed to turn the rope to be served either CW or CCW depending on its lay. The server mechanism (head) can also be driven in either direction that best suits the task at hand. Both motors are also speed controlled such that once you find the sweet-spot for turning the rope and moving the head such that it lays up closely but does not override/over-wrap), it can just be left to its own devices. The head, especially the tensioning device, is still a little crude but I have plans for that :). Also, the lighting effect Keith has achieved looks absolutely brilliant in real life. Cheers Pat
  17. Thanks for the kind comments Keith. Hi Eberhard, actually the piece is dimpled (etched) but I think the guy who etched it left the item in too long and the holes do not serve as a guide as they are a little too large. The drill bit then wonders to one side or other of the dimple recess - that's why they are not aligned on the test piece. I mentioned it to him asking for a redo, but he said that at this size a part and with the thickness of brass stock, to etch completely through the required parts, he cannot control the dimple size. He said he deliberately made the unmasked hole in the template as small as possible but it still resulted in the larger than needed dimples. I do not do enough of this stuff to warrant learning how to, nor warrant buying the etchant chemicals, which would probably lose their shelf life before I used them again - so I will just have to adjust my technique. I have one of those PE folding devices but the fingers are all too small for the longer edge of the rim to be effective. I wish I had one that could be flipped around (long straight edge one side and a series of small fingers on the other). Thanks for the suggestions, you have pointed me to one other possibility. cheers Pat
  18. Thanks Eberhard. Still a bit of improvement required though. As you can see the 0.6mm holes nearly slice the metal strip so I need to find a better way to drill these AND keep them aligned. One saving grace is that once the eyes are soldered in, they will be ground flat so the holes will sort of disappear, especially after blackening or painting (not sure which yet). That is why I haven't filed/ground the hole edges yet - will be done later. The issue I am grappling with is to find a way to work (bend) the metal to avoid all that crushing/marring you can see. The folded part is only 1mm and the metal fairly soft which is why it marks so easily. I have to use the flat long nose needle nose pliers to bed as rubber/nylon jaws will not grip properly or allow a bend under pressure. The other way I have tried is using a jeweler's bending block, but that required partial folding at a time rather than bending the whole edge at a time -results in a wavy bend. I'll keep experimenting to see if there is a better way to get a non-marring fold. I am hoping to find a way to use the jeweler's bending block but then use a form of some sort to bend the edge as a single effort. cheers Pat
  19. Thanks Keith, with the 'shakes' getting slowly worse I am not sure I can keep doing this real small stuff. cheers Pat
  20. Great to see an update Matrim; frames are always time consuming. cheers Pat
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