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jdbondy

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About jdbondy

  • Birthday 08/30/1968

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas, TX

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  1. Pinrail rope coils

    Thanks for posting, Kevin!
  2. Pinrail rope coils

    Turns out that a lot of the improvement is due to a change in the way I make the rope coils. Hard to describe; better learned by just doing. But I essentially wrap the coil with two wraps of line at the "top" of the coil. Then I used a small needle to open up those wraps, and one of the tails was passed through the space created by the needle. This created a loop at the top of the coil that could be adjusted depending on the needs of a particular spot on the pinrail. Once that was determined, the loop was fixed within the wraps with glue, and the tails were trimmed. The other part of the improvement came with following the suggestion above (thanks David) of placing a dot of CA glue (which I also try to avoid) on the underlying wraps of line on the pinrail, then placing the loop on the pinrail so the dot of CA secures the coil to the underlying wraps. I also would sometimes use a block of wood on the deck to force the coil up against the pinrail so it wouldn't be inclined to lean out in an unnatural fashion.
  3. Pinrail rope coils

    Aaahhh, much better...
  4. Pinrail rope coils

    Nice pic, Spyglass! Ugh, I still have work to do to get them to look like that...
  5. Pinrail rope coils

    Thanks for all the replies so far. Meddo, here is a picture of my jig, which fits what you are describing: Frankie, I am going to play with your idea of using scrap line to tie a coil to the pin. David, I too try to keep away from CA but I am finding its use important in cases like this. I agree that using a different shape of coil may be helpful. More recently I have been able to make the coils less round and more long by strapping the coil temporarily with thread and painting it with dilute glue, then removing the binding thread. Two of the larger coils of line in the pictures were shaped in this way.
  6. I am having trouble getting my coils of line to sit on the pinrails in a realistic fashion. I use a jig to create the coils and leave a loop of line that will wrap around the top of each belaying pin. I even use the jig to try to stiffen that loop in a way that will fall around the pin so that the coil then dangles under the pinrail. But the stiffness of the lines causes each coil to lean out away from the pinrail in an unrealistic manner. Some of these coils hang ok, but most don't fall like they would under the influence of gravity. Any suggestions?
  7. When to attach sails to a model

    My current model (Pride of Baltimore 2) is being rigged right now, with sails furled. At every possible opportunity, I have attached the sails to their yards/gaffs/mast before putting the spars in place on the hull. I imagine you are planning on rigging your model with sails fully deployed. I would still plan on attaching the sails as much as possible to their spars before attaching the spars to the model.
  8. Hello from land locked Oklahoma

    Welcome to MSW, from nearby Dallas Texas!
  9. Metal work resourcnes

    I am trolling along on this thread, adding things to my Amazon shopping cart as I scroll down the page!
  10. Parting gift?? Where are you going??
  11. Fly tying thread

    My model is 1:64, and I am using 0.006" thread (Morope) for the ratlines. The problem one would have with fly tying thread is its comparative stiffness for its size. It may be difficult to get it to hang in a curve, and synthetic fly tying thread would not absorb dilute glue well enough to get it to conform to the shape you want it to take. I love fly tying line for seizings and serving, but I don't think it would work well for ratlines.
  12. What have you received today?

    Years ago my wife generously gave me the use of the guest room!
  13. What have you received today?

    A new Anglepoise lamp, replacing the one I inherited from my father: The old one was beginning to have a wonky connection with its switch. Plus the lamp shade was getting loose, and I was afraid it might decide to separate from the rest of the lamp...and come crashing down on the Pride 2! Sadly, this one can only accommodate low wattage bulbs such as compact fluorescents or presumably LED bulbs. This different light quality will take some getting used to. The intensity is nearly the same as with an incandescent bulb.
  14. New Files

    Are these meant to be for wood? Since it's on the Otto Frei web page, I imagine they are more meant for metal, specifically jewelry and watch making.
  15. I hope you guys have a great time! Looking forward to attending one of your seminars in the future.

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