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Everything posted by Matrim

  1. I will have a look to I vaguely recollect that 'Arming and fitting' had a drawing of this as well..
  2. Angle of ship masts

    Masts were usually raked because the weight of the sails is unbalancing and if the mast rakes aft then that helps counteract the added weight. There are apparently some advantages dropping a sail in wind too over a raked mast - but the maths behind that confuses me so I'll take the experts word for it. Also if you have a vertical mast with the sails out then that provides a forward force on the mast which can decrease the effectiveness of the sails. Raking counteracts this force. Finally a heavily raked mast can help with loading and unloading though this may be more relevant for modern schooner type ships than square riggers. Perhaps some of the experts can chime in. Different masts have different rakes due to the different sail plans each mast would take and thus the forces the mast and sails would apply. Not that you asked but you might have wondered 'why?'
  3. I have ordered some anyway. I only need 4 so the cost is minor and then I can visually check. I may end up using Chuck's in their entirety or just the carriages... Worse comes to the worse and I can always scratch build them. I was surprised how bad the kit gun carriages actually were (the cannon themselves were fine)
  4. Does anyone know the length ranges of an English 4 pdr cannon and a 6 pdr cannon of around 1780? My Bounty has four four pounders but the kit cannons are 'ok' but I would prefer to get better and though I could scratch them I am just buying better for this model. I like the look of Chuck's but the smaller non-swivel ones there are 6pdrs. Since the bore is not drastically larger from a 4pdr to 6pdr I wondered if the lengths overlapped (or were the same) so I could then get the nicer looking cannon. In town so no access to the relevant books. Thanks for any opinions.
  5. thanks druxey. i had a look myself at 4 pdr sizes and Lavery says they were between 5 foot 6 and 6 foot which is at scale 23.8125 mm to 28.75 the smallest syren is 29.76 so is close but I wonder if I could just get the relevant carriage and use the kit cannon.
  6. In case anyone would like to see the British Navy failing to sink a wooden Napoleonic 74 Combination of most of the shots Silent shots 1932 http://www.britishpathe.com/video/the-132-year-old-implacable With 'Queens English' commentary http://www.britishpathe.com/video/implacable-to-the-end Joss
  7. Syren rigging hooks

    Contacting Chuck directly would seem more appropriate and useful? and I am sure it would get sorted out..
  8. Holly also differs in shade. I am using a darker piece for my current model. Originally holly was probably used as a 'design for effect' sort of thing. Using the actual wood miight have the correct colour biut at scale it might appaear far too dark ciompated to what the same wood would have looked like in situ.
  9. Newby with grand plans

    That article does contain good advice. The key question for a new modeller (to me at least) is whether you have relevant skills in similar hobbies/work. If you have i.e you were a carpenter at work or spend all your time making furniture then a more advanced model will probably be well within your grasp. If not and you were perhaps an accountant who played tennis as a hobby then try something smaller and simpler. I started with no practical carpentry/metal work skills and started with Caldercrafts 'Snake' which I completed and enjoyed in a year (time limited so that's probably a lot more than actually needed). I am currently on their Bounty which is a nice simple kit though I would also recommend Chucks Longboat as something that is simple and nice to look at when completed without being too difficult. Basically if you fancy Mars or a ship of the line or big frigate but have no relevant skill set then do a smaller kit and treat it as an quick introduction (plus you can make all your mistakes on 'that'). Then you can move up to your dream model... Since you say you built your shed and bench you may already have that skill set so...
  10. K found it. The 'extra' block is in the plan showing the spars etc on their own. From the books it looks like that is the throat halliard Lees If you have the swan series book 4 describes it for that sloop in section 18.51 and makes the valid comment that the block was used to hoist the gaff up to position. The Bounty book does show the eyebolt in some shots but it it a very busy section of the ship for running rigging so it might be a missed for clarity option. The written instructions dont mention it and I notice they do reference a belaying plan - this I dont seem to have so I wonder if it would appear on there.. I have emailed Caldercraft to see what comments they have to make on the block/belaying plan
  11. K, I will check it over when I get home later. I only have one more margin plank to put down and the deck (bar sanding) is finished on mine. Saying that probably still a long, long way from masts and rigging..
  12. Ooo interesting especially as I haven't got close to rigging on my own Caldercraft Bounty yet. Having taken a quick flick through the Anatomy book, Lees and Peterson all I could come up with was that from 1793 booms were fitted to Mizzen masts and from 1745 a gaff was rigged to small ships. The Anatomy ship also shows a gaff in some of its mast component drawings so since that agrees with Lee's I would go with a gaff and no boom. The isometric spars drawing in the Anatomys also shows just a gaff and no boom. Looking throught the Caldercraft plans I think it was named gaff-boom just because it is carrying out the same action as a seperate gaff-boom would. So just pretend it is just called gaff. I noticed no discrepancy accross the plans with regard to it though. All I saw showed just a gaff in the 'high' position on the mizzen mast which is as the Anatomy book also indicates.. Could you say what it is exactly on the plans that is confusing as I doubt it isn't the intellectual issue of what it was actually called and presumably is one of the supporting bits of rigging which might differ between plans...
  13. I should make my own (and for my scratch I probably will at least try) but for my kit model I fully expect to replace all the kit blocks with Chuck's equivelants. My decision this kit is whether to buy better 'rope' or bite the bullet and learn to make my own or not..
  14. best kits

    I like Caldercraft myself as the instructions are decent...
  15. IMG_1144.JPG

  16. Kit Prices

    Shops sometimes hold stock and the prices usually reflect the cost to purchase when the stock was purchased (companies also can discount to break into a territory or compete or just because the locals in the region are more money concious than other regions) so a safe option is to check local prices before looking at cost to buy direct where exchange rates absolutely do matter. i.e in 2015 30th June the Aus dollar exchange rate was average of 2.0446 making a kit costing 871.5 including shipping cost 1781.88 dollars in 2016 just before the referendum is was 1.7713 so the kit would now cost 1543 dollars now it is 1.6566 so that same kit would cost 1443 dollars if a shop in Australia had purchased 10 victorys for re-sale in 2010 and these were priced at 1200 dollars then they may well still be 1200 dollars 7 years later (or less if the shop wanted to shift them faster) or if the producer had determined that people in that region wont pay 1500 for a kit but would pay 1200 and still make them a profit. That does not mean that prices have not changed that much.
  17. Kit Prices

    Regardless as to the pound price the pounds instability actually makes caldercraft kits much better value to anyone who is not in the UK (less so for the US). Its dropped, what, from 1.41 to the dollar and 1.31 to the euro in 2016 to 1.32 to the dollar and 1.12 to the euro so a £1,000 kit would have cost $1,410 and 1,310 euros would now cost $1,323 and 1,120 euros so the price would have to increase 10% to counteract the fall in the pound. Saying that I expect the pound to remain low for a couple of years and then start increasing again (though not to 2016 levels) I would be unsurprised at it increasing 5%. Thats involving lots of guesswork and factors involving things the site does not permit discussion of though...
  18. Popped in here whilst on holiday (no photos as I forgot my camera!) and it is a nice little museum with several models of cargo ships and a few military. It also has a larger diorama of a ship building site with three ships being built up at various stages (one just starting on the keel the next on frames and the final being external planked) with a large amount of ship building tools on display. The other rooms are more interactive for the kids but it is worth a visit if you are ever in that part of the world.
  19. It's not even as if the image loaded on MSW is hard to use. It is simpler and requires less steps than cross referencing an image uploaded to a 3rd party.
  20. Thank you for posting, comments from professionals concerning high quality work and the trade offs involved by people who are involved in the practicalities are particularly useful.
  21. Many of the authors listed are good but some are better than others. For me Patrick o'Brien stands head and shoulders above the rest. I often try to decide why and I think it is realism. More than any other author POB's characters inhabit the period he is writing about. They have lives outside the navy and spend considerable time outside of the relevant ships. When I read POB it is the closest to what (probably) actually happened (especially as he grabbed most of his plots from actual events that occurred from the major Cochrane antics to Riou, Rowley etc. It even goes beyond the primary story streams as several of his sub-officers tales are lifted from the navy chronicles (i.e the Dillons tale of how he fought of several privateers in the first book). His character also make mistakes and have major weaknesses that other James Bond like heroes dont have. On the other hand people who are reading for castle building or continual excitement may found it a little gentle for their tastes. With O'Brien I would recommend reading the first chapter and if you like the interatcions between Jack and Maturin then you will love all of it. If that leaves you dry then stick the others. Of the others Hornblower is excellent though he is not as good at the 'world' as POB. He is the gold standard of pure heroic naval fiction. I loved Kent and Bolitho when I was a lad but when I grew up found his books were more generic than the above two. I have said before that you could replace the French with 'Zargling aliens' and the ships with space ships very easily and you would have a good sci-fi novel. Kent writes what I term as heroic fiction much like Sharpe. If you like that then good for you. I found that when I knew very little of naval sailing warfare that he seemed very knowledgeable when I knew more I was less impressed and realised how divorced from the world it actuallty is especially when I discovered POB. I have read several Kydds and they are okay but I have never felt the need to re-read any. Sean Thomas Russels books were an irritation to me. They swung more from heroic fiction to spy heroic fiction. I initially enjoyed the John Pearce series by David Donachie. Like Kidd the hero starts as a press ganged sailor and also like Kidd very rapidly indeed gets promoted. A curious side-plot with the Pearce books is that a large portion of the book is written from the perspective of his imcompetant first commander who thinks he is great but isnt. Donachie also likes name dropping a lot with more actual historical personages visiting (Nelson keeps popping up). As with most naval fiction the plots were too contrived to be realistic to my mind. Finally most of the authors above (with POB and Hornblower perhaps excepted) follow a very similar template. The officer above, of whatever rank, is usually incompetant and the hero will save the day against all odds. Which is fine but I have found a couple of books which go heavily against the grain of that in their structure the first is Alaric J Bonds 'His majesty's Ship' This is written in disconnected pov style so the chapters split from captain to officers to sailors to landsman to tell the story. I found it refreshingly different and it gave a much better picture of a naval ship than any other book read. (If you want a picture of a naval ship as an officer/gentleman would see it then POB wins by a country mile). The second is older and doesn't involve much fighting and is William Goldings 'To the Ends of the Earth' - this is a three parter concerning the voyage of a well educated man to take up a position in Australia on a naval ship of this period. It also has a good mini-series with a young Benedict Cumberbatch in the lead role which is well worth viewing. All my opinion and others tastes naturally may differ.
  22. The Caldercraft kits use the full gun. The only company I can recall that did not (and I dont have familiarity with that many...) is the plastic Airfix Victory which certainly used the cannon end on the lower deck guns on one of the earlier models. In any decent kit you can look through the gun embrasure and it would look strange not seeing the gun. On my Diana for example you can see a lot of the lower deck guns by looking through the hatches on deck as well on that kit I made the cannons up and rigged them even though they would only be partially seen it would be enough.. If spending the time scratch building then I suspect there is even less reason to 'simulate' the guns.
  23. I like holly for deck planking though you only get small amounts (for obvious reasons). It has a lovely white colour..
  24. HMS Trincomalee

    Just removed the photo which had a photographic studio copyright scrawled over the photo as it goes against site rules....I will make a wild guess that all the others were taken by yourselves and not randomly grabbed of the web...

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