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    • Dubz

      Hello fellow modellers   02/04/2018

      We would like to present on our Facebook page more regularly pictures of your work. If you would like to participate, and we would appreciate that as we wanna promote the forum this way, please visit https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17711-your-images-for-our-facebook-page/

    • kurtvd19

      An Incentive to Start A Build Log - New Plan Set from the NRG   03/17/2018

      An Incentive for Starting a Build Log

      The NRG’s Generic East Coast Oyster Sharpie plan sets have been selling out – we had to reorder prints 2X already.

      BUT nobody has started a build log yet.  As an incentive we have decided to reward the first three (3) MSW / NRG members who purchase the plans and start and continue* actual build logs** from the plans. 

      The build logs should be started in the scratch built forum and labeled with Generic Sharpie – by “your ID”.  When we have six or more build logs up and running we will set up a group build area for the Generic Sharpie build logs.

      The winners will be able to pick any one of the prizes listed below:

      Free registration for one day at 2018 or 2019 NRG Conference                  ($145 value)

      Shop Notes 1 and 2 set                                                                         ($60 value)

      Nautical Research Journal – all content set

      4 – CDs or 1 Flash Drive            ($150 value)

      Continental Galley Washington Plan set                                                    ($65 value)

      1 year NRG membership or extension                                                      ($50 - $62 value)



      *“Continue” means that multiple posts containing build log content must be made for a minimum of 30 days after the initial post.  Logs will be tracked by starting date and the first 3 that have continued for 30 days following their initial post will be declared the winners.

      **Note the words “actual build logs” – no fair showing a few pieces of wood and going no further just to win. 


      The NRG has a new set of plans available for purchase with a free 200+ page full-color monograph .  Check the NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD NEWS forum below for details.  This plan set is developed for the first time scratch builder with limited tools and experience.  All materials are standard strip stock available from hobby wood suppliers.  However, it is also a great project for the more experienced builder looking for a smaller project to take a break from the bigger builds.  Remember MSW Members who provide us their real name are considered members for the discounted price.  An email or call to the office before you order with your real name and MSW user name before you order is needed for the discount code.


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Everything posted by Matrim

  1. Syren rigging hooks

    Contacting Chuck directly would seem more appropriate and useful? and I am sure it would get sorted out..
  2. Holly also differs in shade. I am using a darker piece for my current model. Originally holly was probably used as a 'design for effect' sort of thing. Using the actual wood miight have the correct colour biut at scale it might appaear far too dark ciompated to what the same wood would have looked like in situ.
  3. Newby with grand plans

    That article does contain good advice. The key question for a new modeller (to me at least) is whether you have relevant skills in similar hobbies/work. If you have i.e you were a carpenter at work or spend all your time making furniture then a more advanced model will probably be well within your grasp. If not and you were perhaps an accountant who played tennis as a hobby then try something smaller and simpler. I started with no practical carpentry/metal work skills and started with Caldercrafts 'Snake' which I completed and enjoyed in a year (time limited so that's probably a lot more than actually needed). I am currently on their Bounty which is a nice simple kit though I would also recommend Chucks Longboat as something that is simple and nice to look at when completed without being too difficult. Basically if you fancy Mars or a ship of the line or big frigate but have no relevant skill set then do a smaller kit and treat it as an quick introduction (plus you can make all your mistakes on 'that'). Then you can move up to your dream model... Since you say you built your shed and bench you may already have that skill set so...
  4. K found it. The 'extra' block is in the plan showing the spars etc on their own. From the books it looks like that is the throat halliard Lees If you have the swan series book 4 describes it for that sloop in section 18.51 and makes the valid comment that the block was used to hoist the gaff up to position. The Bounty book does show the eyebolt in some shots but it it a very busy section of the ship for running rigging so it might be a missed for clarity option. The written instructions dont mention it and I notice they do reference a belaying plan - this I dont seem to have so I wonder if it would appear on there.. I have emailed Caldercraft to see what comments they have to make on the block/belaying plan
  5. K, I will check it over when I get home later. I only have one more margin plank to put down and the deck (bar sanding) is finished on mine. Saying that probably still a long, long way from masts and rigging..
  6. Ooo interesting especially as I haven't got close to rigging on my own Caldercraft Bounty yet. Having taken a quick flick through the Anatomy book, Lees and Peterson all I could come up with was that from 1793 booms were fitted to Mizzen masts and from 1745 a gaff was rigged to small ships. The Anatomy ship also shows a gaff in some of its mast component drawings so since that agrees with Lee's I would go with a gaff and no boom. The isometric spars drawing in the Anatomys also shows just a gaff and no boom. Looking throught the Caldercraft plans I think it was named gaff-boom just because it is carrying out the same action as a seperate gaff-boom would. So just pretend it is just called gaff. I noticed no discrepancy accross the plans with regard to it though. All I saw showed just a gaff in the 'high' position on the mizzen mast which is as the Anatomy book also indicates.. Could you say what it is exactly on the plans that is confusing as I doubt it isn't the intellectual issue of what it was actually called and presumably is one of the supporting bits of rigging which might differ between plans...
  7. I should make my own (and for my scratch I probably will at least try) but for my kit model I fully expect to replace all the kit blocks with Chuck's equivelants. My decision this kit is whether to buy better 'rope' or bite the bullet and learn to make my own or not..
  8. best kits

    I like Caldercraft myself as the instructions are decent...
  9. IMG_1144.JPG

  10. Kit Prices

    Shops sometimes hold stock and the prices usually reflect the cost to purchase when the stock was purchased (companies also can discount to break into a territory or compete or just because the locals in the region are more money concious than other regions) so a safe option is to check local prices before looking at cost to buy direct where exchange rates absolutely do matter. i.e in 2015 30th June the Aus dollar exchange rate was average of 2.0446 making a kit costing 871.5 including shipping cost 1781.88 dollars in 2016 just before the referendum is was 1.7713 so the kit would now cost 1543 dollars now it is 1.6566 so that same kit would cost 1443 dollars if a shop in Australia had purchased 10 victorys for re-sale in 2010 and these were priced at 1200 dollars then they may well still be 1200 dollars 7 years later (or less if the shop wanted to shift them faster) or if the producer had determined that people in that region wont pay 1500 for a kit but would pay 1200 and still make them a profit. That does not mean that prices have not changed that much.
  11. Kit Prices

    Regardless as to the pound price the pounds instability actually makes caldercraft kits much better value to anyone who is not in the UK (less so for the US). Its dropped, what, from 1.41 to the dollar and 1.31 to the euro in 2016 to 1.32 to the dollar and 1.12 to the euro so a £1,000 kit would have cost $1,410 and 1,310 euros would now cost $1,323 and 1,120 euros so the price would have to increase 10% to counteract the fall in the pound. Saying that I expect the pound to remain low for a couple of years and then start increasing again (though not to 2016 levels) I would be unsurprised at it increasing 5%. Thats involving lots of guesswork and factors involving things the site does not permit discussion of though...
  12. Popped in here whilst on holiday (no photos as I forgot my camera!) and it is a nice little museum with several models of cargo ships and a few military. It also has a larger diorama of a ship building site with three ships being built up at various stages (one just starting on the keel the next on frames and the final being external planked) with a large amount of ship building tools on display. The other rooms are more interactive for the kids but it is worth a visit if you are ever in that part of the world.
  13. It's not even as if the image loaded on MSW is hard to use. It is simpler and requires less steps than cross referencing an image uploaded to a 3rd party.
  14. Thank you for posting, comments from professionals concerning high quality work and the trade offs involved by people who are involved in the practicalities are particularly useful.
  15. Many of the authors listed are good but some are better than others. For me Patrick o'Brien stands head and shoulders above the rest. I often try to decide why and I think it is realism. More than any other author POB's characters inhabit the period he is writing about. They have lives outside the navy and spend considerable time outside of the relevant ships. When I read POB it is the closest to what (probably) actually happened (especially as he grabbed most of his plots from actual events that occurred from the major Cochrane antics to Riou, Rowley etc. It even goes beyond the primary story streams as several of his sub-officers tales are lifted from the navy chronicles (i.e the Dillons tale of how he fought of several privateers in the first book). His character also make mistakes and have major weaknesses that other James Bond like heroes dont have. On the other hand people who are reading for castle building or continual excitement may found it a little gentle for their tastes. With O'Brien I would recommend reading the first chapter and if you like the interatcions between Jack and Maturin then you will love all of it. If that leaves you dry then stick the others. Of the others Hornblower is excellent though he is not as good at the 'world' as POB. He is the gold standard of pure heroic naval fiction. I loved Kent and Bolitho when I was a lad but when I grew up found his books were more generic than the above two. I have said before that you could replace the French with 'Zargling aliens' and the ships with space ships very easily and you would have a good sci-fi novel. Kent writes what I term as heroic fiction much like Sharpe. If you like that then good for you. I found that when I knew very little of naval sailing warfare that he seemed very knowledgeable when I knew more I was less impressed and realised how divorced from the world it actuallty is especially when I discovered POB. I have read several Kydds and they are okay but I have never felt the need to re-read any. Sean Thomas Russels books were an irritation to me. They swung more from heroic fiction to spy heroic fiction. I initially enjoyed the John Pearce series by David Donachie. Like Kidd the hero starts as a press ganged sailor and also like Kidd very rapidly indeed gets promoted. A curious side-plot with the Pearce books is that a large portion of the book is written from the perspective of his imcompetant first commander who thinks he is great but isnt. Donachie also likes name dropping a lot with more actual historical personages visiting (Nelson keeps popping up). As with most naval fiction the plots were too contrived to be realistic to my mind. Finally most of the authors above (with POB and Hornblower perhaps excepted) follow a very similar template. The officer above, of whatever rank, is usually incompetant and the hero will save the day against all odds. Which is fine but I have found a couple of books which go heavily against the grain of that in their structure the first is Alaric J Bonds 'His majesty's Ship' This is written in disconnected pov style so the chapters split from captain to officers to sailors to landsman to tell the story. I found it refreshingly different and it gave a much better picture of a naval ship than any other book read. (If you want a picture of a naval ship as an officer/gentleman would see it then POB wins by a country mile). The second is older and doesn't involve much fighting and is William Goldings 'To the Ends of the Earth' - this is a three parter concerning the voyage of a well educated man to take up a position in Australia on a naval ship of this period. It also has a good mini-series with a young Benedict Cumberbatch in the lead role which is well worth viewing. All my opinion and others tastes naturally may differ.
  16. The Caldercraft kits use the full gun. The only company I can recall that did not (and I dont have familiarity with that many...) is the plastic Airfix Victory which certainly used the cannon end on the lower deck guns on one of the earlier models. In any decent kit you can look through the gun embrasure and it would look strange not seeing the gun. On my Diana for example you can see a lot of the lower deck guns by looking through the hatches on deck as well on that kit I made the cannons up and rigged them even though they would only be partially seen it would be enough.. If spending the time scratch building then I suspect there is even less reason to 'simulate' the guns.
  17. I like holly for deck planking though you only get small amounts (for obvious reasons). It has a lovely white colour..
  18. HMS Trincomalee

    Just removed the photo which had a photographic studio copyright scrawled over the photo as it goes against site rules....I will make a wild guess that all the others were taken by yourselves and not randomly grabbed of the web...
  19. Had an email concerning one of these recently so I thought I would check it out. http://www.dyson.co.uk/fans-and-heaters/purifiers/dyson-pure-hot-cool-link/technology.aspx Couple of notes, Dyson is a very well known UK brand - if nothing else the owner is an inventor who actually makes stuff thqat works that Britain also exports so he is rather an asset. His stuff tends to be very well made but expensive. The machine fulfills three tasks. It purifiys the air (down to 0.1 micron and the dangerous stuff is between 0.1 and 0.5 microns), warms the air to a temperature you set (at which point it functions like a thermostat and switches off until needed again) or cools the air in summer. It also contains some measure of air cleanliness measures as it flags whether it regards the air as 'clean' or not. Finally it has wi-fi and can be controlled via an android/apple app so you can set the temperature and turn it on when you are not even in the room. Anyway my model arrived today so I switched on my air monitor to check it actually worked, set it up and left it on for an hour. When I returned to the shed I was pleased that A - the shed was toasty and B - the air was of good quality. Large particles were down to 34 (per square foot) which is good (if I run my other air filters they can generally get it down to 20 ish or less but as the large particles are not the dangerous ones I am not worried). Small particles were down to 300. The 'clean' air range is having 500 particles or less (and my house as a control location tends to have 300 as well). From there I lowered the temperature as it was a little too warm and then started table sawing some wood. My table saw is attached to a good dust hoover but you will still get 'escape' and throughout an evenings work the small dust levels never got above 400 and once cutting stopped dropped back down to 300 within 5 minutes or so. Therefore I am quite pleased with the its operation. I have several air filters/ suction systems as I am nervous about wood dust and this seemed to do an excellent job. If it was not based in my shed I would consider leaving it on all night to keep the temperature level and once I get a meter in might do that in winter to see how much electricity it actually piles through - the air heating will help control rust etc. K so that is the good now the bad. It is not cheap - the mid-large models are four hundred and ninety nine pounds and worse the filters cost fifty pounds each plus are not re-useable. That last point is important as if you get through a lot of those and it can be very expensive. The user guide states that running it for 12 hours a day over a year should get through a single filter but in a working environment with wood dust I am expecting that to be shorter. If it is 6 months then I will be quite happy, anything less than that and I will be less so. Finally I plan on using this as a background filter. Keeping different suction on power tools and use other air purifiers along with a dust mask when doing a lot of sawdust generating work. Once they have got the environment under control then this can be used as a means of controlling dust that has perhaps settled and is thrown up without being seen plus if you do not possess an air quality monitor then this does cover that job a little less transparently. You can of course put it in other rooms in the house if needed for cooling/ heating/purifying as well..
  20. I have a commerical air quaility monitor and, to be frank, I do not have a clue how it works (beyond it shines a laser over an air flow and counts obstructions sizes)..
  21. planking the hull

    What is the kit? I am currently planking a Bounty and started with the wale then planked from the wale downwards (both side) and have just started with the wood above the wale. If your kit uses two layers of wood and you are on the first layer then it does not matter. If one layer of wood or you are on the second layer then planking the area that (may) be covered with copper plates first is helpful as it allows you to make your mistakes where they will be hidden. Leave visible wood as late as possible so then end model looks better...
  22. Ship modelling is certainly niche but people are not losing interest in ship models. I started modelling when I saw a photo of a kit online and though 'wow I would love to make one of those' . I did not think 'wow I would like to make one of those but I better make sure all the infrastructure is there with people to assist' Thus I doubt the hobby will die. It IS certainly true that it is a time intensive hobby and that people in their twenties (usually having more fun chasing other things if you know what I mean) are less likely to be active. It is also true that competition for hobby time is intense and getting more organised by the year and that the big players in the market are getting better at trying to hold people into their own targetted gaming niches. None of that means people need to run around worrying. If we all stopped and one kit manufacturer was left then I am certain you would still get a small group of people modelling. The power of the internet and sites like this one are also good for ensuring that even if no one models for miles then you can go on line and meet like minded people and even if there are no hobby shops - there will be an online shop that can send you stuff. If anything our situation is far better than equivelant modellers thirty years ago where being near a good hobby store and having people to ask advice from was helpful. Back then you needed more magazines and stores.
  23. Feel free to raise an issue with either company, after all you have the replication steps. The more people who raise it (or select 'me to' in microsofts case) then the more chance it will get addressed. Numbers count more here than a 3rd party reporting someone else's error. I would suggest one of you raises issues with the relevant forums and then posts the topic address here so anyone else who is keen on a fix can bump it. If no one else is keen on a fix then there is not much impetus for the source of the issue to correct it. As an aside my pc is windows 10 and I am using firefox and the problem does not occur.
  24. It is a difficult subject. If the suggestion (or improvement) can be practically made 'now' then it could well be constructive. 'You've got that all wrong' on something that cannot be easily undone is perhaps not. Naturally that depends on how frequently the builder is posting.

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