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granta

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    Perth, Western Australia

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  1. Hi Allan The “centre line rigging” as per my post refers to the attachment of the lifts, truss pendants that belay directly to the deck beneath the mast. These are all attached to the yards when the yards are attached to the mast (which is a complete unit off the ship). The mast unit off the ship consists of the three masts (lower, top and topgallant), tops, all shrouds with the top shrouds plus ratlines attached to the top, all stays, Burtons, backstays, preventer stays, yards with slings, jeers, lifts, halyards. This is up to Mastini’s step 7 on page 62). This makes for an terrible tangle, but blue tape keeps things in a sort or order. Then… masts are glued in. Then…the “centre line rigging” (sorry for being clumsy with the description) of lifts, halyards. Then…the stays (Mastini’s step 12). Sorry I was unclear. “Attaching the stays “ refers to the final belaying. Grant
  2. Hi Mark Im currently rigging Caldercrafts HMS Diana as per the Mastini method and highly recommend it. Masts are assembled off the ship with the topmast shrouds and ratlines firmly fixed to the deadeyes before attaching the yards. All off the ship. The mast and yards are then placed in the deck and all centre line rigging complete before attaching the stays. The lower shrouds follow. This is my second model using this method.
  3. Hi Bob Have you looked at miniaturesteammodels.com? They’re an Australian distributor for Caldercraft models. I’ve bought two ships off them (Diana and Badger). Good price at the time and quick delivery. Grant
  4. Terrific stuff, Anton. You've actually nailed that Freo sea colour. Wonderful memories of a couple of afternoons spent on the Leeuwin. A highly recommended outing for my fellow West Australians. Grant
  5. Well done, Anton, on those decorations and their finish. Sometimes we see these as being too overscale and garish. Something off a birthday cake. But you've nailed it, buddy. I've noted the paint you've used as well as the technique for later. Top stuff. Grant
  6. The hull isn't cut down on the Badger. I placed a sealed plywood barrier about 2cm under the waterline around the hull, painted it blue/green and poured a layer of resin over. Some experiments with textured water using something like Mod Podge to follow. There's a lot on the Web and YouTube on water based dioramas. Next time I'll add furled sails. Your Sovereign would look awesome in a natural setting with those spectacular flags... Grant
  7. Hi Anton Here is Caldercraft's HMS Badger in a resin sea. Still unfinished and doesn't really stand up to close scrutiny. Really a trial to see how it looked. I do like marine dioramas that tell a story. I'd love to see a 17th Century marine diorama. Grant
  8. Hi Anton. I know I speak on behalf of many modellers when I thank you for these posts on enhancing the Sergal kit of SOS. One of the great things about our hobby lies in the capacity to exceed the manufaturers intended potential of these kits. You have done the research and clearly applied that to the Sergal kit. Championship stuff. Grant
  9. Awesome stuff, Anton. Gee, those 17th Century ships have something uniquely attractive about them. As an aside, I note that you're planning to build the Batavia later. As a WA local, that would really interest me. Is there a kit available? Or maybe a scratch build?
  10. I like what you've done there, Scott. I'm no expert but I would imagine that the "white stuff" anti fouling mix would be slapped over everything prior to launch. Including the rudder hinges. The hinges above the waterline would remain black. Cracking build by the way. Grant
  11. Gee, that's looking good, Scott. A pleasure to view. Have you made a decision about finishing the lower hull? A lot of Friesland modellers have painted it white. I really like the natural finish, though.
  12. Hi Anton Looking pretty cool so far. Wondering about the Ozito sander. Read a couple of reviews suggesting the sanding pads came off too easily. Looks to have done a great job on your hull, though. Grant
  13. Looking pretty sharp, Scott. Sometimes the quality and finish of the decorations on these sorts of models can look overscale and detract from the model but these look terrific. Grant
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