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Everything posted by DocBlake

  1. I've glued up 5 of the 9 frames and I'm noticing some "tolerance creep". When I enlarge the frame parts to 200%, the lines outlining the parts get some real thickness to them: 1/32" - 3/64"). This is especially a problem where the frames butt each other. They need to be accurate or the frame doesn't match the plans, and things like gun port lintels and sills are thrown off. I've already noticed some slight inconsistencies as I glue up the frames. They are not matching 100% and on both sides of the frame. The errors are the range of 1/32", but they are there. Hopefully I can figure out a fix when the time comes. Very thin shims will likely be the answer for any frame component too short at the top timbers, with trimming if they are slightly long. This problem is a function of the large scale of the model (1/24). Has anyone else encountered this problem?
  2. After completing my Battle Station model in 1/24 scale, I was anxious to do another project at that large scale. An entire ship at 1/24 would require an addition to our house, so I settled on a cross section. I have plans for the HMS Granado in 1/24, but decided to launch a Triton cross section instead. As soon as I enlarged the keel plans to 200% I realized a potential problem. The lines on the plans themselves are 1/32" wide at that size! I'm going to have to be very careful in sizing parts for this build. I started with a piece of boxwood , dimensioned it on my table saw and thickness sander and cut a shallow kerf on each side for the rabbet. I enlarged the kerf to a "V" groove with wood carving tools and square edged sanding blocks. I made the false keel out of rosewood, and the keelson out of swiss pear. I've posted some photos of my progress. I'm requesting access to the Triton download area so I can continue this build. Dave
  3. Great tutorial, Don! And continuing great work on the model. BTW: Before the switch in software, MSW "content I follow" always listed the latest comment on a topic first, with the other comments on other topics chronologically in order. You were always able to keep up with the latest developments. With the current setup, that's not the case. Despite the post above mine (Mike's) posted 14 hours ago, this build log and it's latest post remain on page 5 of my "content I follow" menu. Can that be fixed? Anyone know?
  4. Tony, I think the Triton area has been re-opened to new builders once again. Access to the build files is available after producing a keel, false keel and keelsonas it had been..
  5. The masts and sprit are done except for the boom rests. Rigging soon!
  6. This will be my build log for AL's "Independence 1775". First let me say that this is an entirely fictional vessel, much like Al's Swift or Harvey. It is , however, representative of the colonial schooners built in America between 1763 and 1775. Harold Hahn covers these ships in his book "The Colonial Schooner - 1763 - 1775". I was drawn to the vessel because of her lines, and especially the bluff bow. But what convinced me to build this model was the excellent build log of Clare Hess: Clare is building the model on commission and has seriously kit-bashed the build. The result is a beautiful , if fictional, colonial schooner circa 1775. The first problem with the kit is the scale. The box cover lists the model as 1:35 scale. At that large scale, the model would be very small...smaller in fact than "Sultana", the smallest schooner known to have been built. A vessel that tiny would never be able to be armed with 4 carriage-mounted cannons. What to do? Clare decided to build the model in 1:48 scale. I chose a different path. After researching both the "Halifax" and "Sultana" in Hahn's book, I discovered that if I built the kit in 5/16" scale, the model would be a little smaller than "Halifax" but larger than "Sultana". She should be able to carry 4 three-pounder cannons. The 5/16" scale is unusual, and it translates to 1:38.4! Convieniently this works out to 8 mm = 1 inch, a convenient ratio. So I'll be building "Independence" using metric measurements. I completed the hull framing and reinforced the framing with blocks. Probably overkill, but the bulkheads are plywood and very hard. Fairing the hull would put a lot of stress on them so I decided better safe than sorry. I plan to use the same wood scheme as Clare: boxwood decking, boxwood and swiss pear hull planking. I will used redheart for the inboard bulwark planking and the deck furniture ordinarily painted red.
  7. You are right Brian! When I measured the footprint I measured between the top timbers. The tumblehome gave the smaller measurement. The beam is really 16-3/4". It will be a big model! The Admiral would probably not agree about me being a "twig".
  8. Thanks, Eddie. Milestone! The first frame is glued up. I'll finish all nine before rough sanding them.
  9. I laid out the futtocks for frame #1 on the billets. There are 11 parts per double frame and 9 frames in all. I'll glue up frame #1 today and cut out frame #2 also.
  10. Great progress, Zoltan. The planking looks terrific!
  11. I love the companion way (well, everything really!). The model's stand is also outstanding. Great work, Don.
  12. I'm finishing up the masts. The plans call for boom rests on both the main mast as well as the fore mast. This is similar to what was found on "Hannah", "Chaleur" and "Gaspee". "Sultana" and "Halifax" had boom rests on the main mast only, the sails on the fore masts being loose-footed. As you can see from the pictures, Chaluer's fore mast boom rest was quite a way up the mast compared to Independence. The rest is only 3' 8" above the deck on Independence, while the main is 6' above the deck. By contrast, Hannah's fore mast boom rest is 5'6" above deck , according to Hahn's plan. So while it would be okay to have booms on both the main and the fore masts, the boom rest on the fore mast should be raised significantly higher. I'm leaning toward no boom rest on the foremast, with a loose-footed fore sail. What do you all think? Chaleur Hannah
  13. I'm restarting this build. Mike Shanks and I have been planning on doing a joint projet: POF "Hannah" in 1/24 scale...the whole ship. Not sure about rigging yet. I think the Triton cross section will be good practice for that build. I cut out and surfaced the blanks of hard maple I'll use for the frames. The maple is 3/8" thick, giving a final double frame thickness of 3/4". The footprint of the cross section at this scale is huge: 9-7/8" X 14-1/2"! The photo shows the plans for frame 2 compared to a midship's frame of "Fair American" at 1/48 scale. I'm also planning a building jig. The jig in the photo is one of the popular "2 level" jigs used for the cross section, but it takes into account that the plan view profile of the model is not a rectangle. The bulwarks curve slightly. The profile of the sides of the jig (marked by the arrows are clearly curved. Does anyone have a good way to lay out this curve accurately? There is no plan view of the framing in the plans.
  14. People whose automobiles are WAY MORE IMPORTANT THAN MINE, so they park diagonally, occupying 2 parking spaces to avoid dings. Jerks.
  15. I accidentally deleted the title of my HMS Triton cross section build. Can anyone tell me how to "rename " it.. i.e. add a title?
  16. Thanks, Mark, I will. It's odd because I can access the log from the "content I follow" menu, but it is shown as "deleted" in the Triton Cross section forum!. I can just restart the log, I suppose...
  17. This will be the build log for my second Lauck Street Shipyard kit, "Fair American". As with my AVS "Patrick Henry" I plan to substitute some of the kit's wood. My kit is #116 and I purchased it about 2 years ago. It does contain a wood package from Hobby mill with an ebony wales kit as well as Swiss pear and holly planking stock. I'll also find a way to use boxwood. This kit will be more practice before I go on two my two big goals: The Lauck Street Shipyards "Kingfisher" and a scratch-built "Hannah" in 1/24 scale. The first step is to unpack, and then start work on the keel.
  18. Started back on this project. I'm currently sanding the inboard surfaces of the frames before gluing them to the keel. There isn't much room to sand inside the model once the frames are glued in place. I own a oscillating spindle sander, but I found the revolving speed was sanding too aggressively. I have a rheostat, but it didn't work on the spindle sander. Fortunately, my full size drill press has an induction motor which allowed the rheostat to control the speed of the revolution. I slowed it down and got a speed where I could control how much stock I was removing more easily. No pictures here...kind of boring work.
  19. Beautiful job, Ken! That is a great looking model.
  20. I tend to agree, Don. The ship is "stylized" anyway. Bulwarks are redheart, not vivid red pain, and the planking below the wales is all holly, and it doesn't follow the waterline. The detail at the doublings is some of the most interesting on the ship and I think it tends to get lost with the black dye.