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  1. Amazon would probably be a good place to buy once you know the size & color you want.. I use stuff like this: With a machine like the Domanoff, where you are limited to four strands, you may have to use your results ( 2,3,4 ) to make larger rope...
  2. Another excellent reference is "Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld.. It should have some details regarding the rigging of the type you are working on.. Browse through some of the excellent build logs, and click through to the rigging parts. Trying to take you through this, question by question, is going to result in a virtual build log, using diagrams and technique that has already been provided. Here is a good start from a log I suggested to you earlier..
  3. Have you thought about making your own? Here is the first little rope maker I made with some final product.. I have what I call my 2nd generation machine now, but it's not far removed from what you see above..
  4. Without any other references, the rigging plans with the kit should be adequate. When I search in the build logs, the first completed log I come across is: This would probably be a good place to start.. When I Google " Santa Maria model ship ' images, I get many hits with images that should provide a lot of information..
  5. Here is an example of something I am working on. I think it depends on the model, and the desired effect. I like a wood finish rather than paint, and with this in mind, using various ( scale? ) plank lengths, creates an interesting look, that might not be as effective when painting.
  6. There are several build logs in Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS Search for ' Rattlesnake ' and you should see several logs of the Mamoli kit, with lots of pics at various stages. You should be able to see how others have handled the problem you face.
  7. Ooops.. Posted without thinking it through.. Thanks for the great follow up info...
  8. Multiply the diameter of the string/line/thread times the number of strands you will be spinning.. i.e.. 4 x .25mm = 1mm.
  9. Why would you have explain away the hatch? Ventilation usually involves a path for air to flow. The scuttles would provide airflow over the garden and out the hatch. ( or vice-versa ) The ' Garden ' was the reason the Bounty existed. P.S. From pages 8-9 of AOTS " Bligh describes the conversion of Bounty's lower deck into a garden in his account: The between decks was divided in the following manner:- the great cabin was appropriated for the preservation of plants, and extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two large sky-lights, and on each side three scuttles for air, etc., etc... " Reading further on page nine, there is additional information about the ' scuttles '...
  10. The sheaves you are referring to are not the " ventilation " features discussed above. In the image below, the sheaves are circled in red, and the " ventilation ports " are circled in blue. Why would they be more of a hull compromise than gun ports with lids?
  11. Really nice. I particularly like the wood finish..
  12. You ask: Now that you see what the really nice blocks cost, you have an answer to that question.. If the kit had cost $60 more, and included the blocks from Syren, would you have purchased anyway? The kit provided blocks can really be improved upon, if you take the time with a file or emery board, to round of the corners and edges, and deepen the grooves a bit..
  13. If you look at the cross section at " 3 " on page 34, you will see those openings would lie just below the deck.. Note location of mizzen channels. It seems the idea would be to provide ventilation for the " garden " ..
  14. When I Google " pear wood ", I see several US sources..