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Dan Vadas

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About Dan Vadas

  • Rank
    Administrator
  • Birthday 09/18/1953

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    dannyvad@yahoo.com.au

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Abermain NSW Australia

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  • Full NRG Member?
    MSW Member

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  1. Angle of ship masts

    Foremast is vertical, Mainmast is inclined about 1.5 to 2 degrees toward stern, Mizzenmast is inclined about 3.5 to 4 degrees toward stern. Danny
  2. Finished 003

    Thanks Mark . This cross-section is completely Scratchbuilt. I used the plans from my full model of HMS Vulture, which is also fully framed with one side open but you can't see a lot of detail inside hence the cross-section to show some of the detail. Check my Signature to see the full model. Danny
  3. Fokker Dr 1 by Mike Dowling

    I'd leave the skin off altogether. Probably a bit late to drill some lightening holes? Danny
  4. PE Tool Suggestion

    Cut a flat angle in the end of a toothpick and lick it. This works well for parts that are a bit small for tweezers. Use one or two tiny drops of PVA glue to position the part, allow to dry for a few minutes, then apply CA glue. A sewing needle with the end of the eye ground off, held in an Xacto handle, makes neat work of applying a small amount of CA. Danny
  5. Home Made Sanding Blocks

    I use Contact Cement, and remove the worn-out sandpaper with a Heat Gun. The paper peels off after a couple of seconds of heat. CAUTION - the heat would probably also destroy your fabricated sanding sticks, unless you used Epoxy to glue the handles on. Danny
  6. Fokker Dr 1 by Mike Dowling

    I've cut the same piece three times and it's STILL too short . Danny
  7. You've blown it now Grant - this is the end of your "me" time . Danny
  8. Birthdays

    Happy Birthday to Chuck Passaro . Danny
  9. Sherline mill and lathe questions

    Zip Ties . Danny
  10. Sherline mill and lathe questions

    I agree with all of Doug's comments. I have the 8-axis Mill and have never found the need to set it up as such, the Tilt Table and Rotary Table as well as a few other bits and pieces have removed the need to use the extra axes. I also have the long-bed lathe, and I rarely use the extra length (I shape all my masts and yards by hand - it's actually a lot easier once you know the technique ). The long-bed lathe is useful in so far as the extra length allows you to move the tailstock well out of the way when setting up longer pieces that won't go through the centre hole. I have both machines fitted with DRO (an absolute MUST HAVE in my opinion), and both share the one Readout box. Changing from one machine to another can be done in about 30 seconds. In regard to your "Inch" Mill - about all you would need to change are the leadscrews and handwheels. I'd say this would be considerably cheaper than buying a new mill even if you got a really good price for the old one. Cheers, Danny
  11. Try either THIS ONE or THIS ONE for Craft wire in the UK. Looks like they come in various suitable sizes and lots of other colours besides black. Cheers, Danny
  12. Unfortunately I no longer have that shop setup . I've moved house several times since I was there, and am "reduced" to working from a single workbench. I still have all my tools, but anytime I need to do something on the lathe or mill I have to drag it out of a cupboard . Another reason why I got into Card modelling . Cheers, Danny
  13. Bill, I can't remember if they came with the wheels or if I bought them separately. It WAS about 12 years ago . I do know that they are Sherline items however, and would have just bolted on without any modification. Danny
  14. Mike, don't forget that you'll need TWO DRO sensor kits (but only one display). From memory they are the cheaper part of the setup. Danny
  15. Hmm, you're right Chuck . I've edited it a bit, but that's about the best I can do and still be able to read it without wearing glasses . Danny

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