Jump to content

Dan Vadas

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Dan Vadas

  • Rank
  • Birthday 09/18/1953

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Abermain NSW Australia

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

3,946 profile views
  1. Eddie seems to have left us. His last post was the one above last April. I hope it's nothing serious. Cheers, Danny
  2. meaning of words

    That one looks more like Frustration . Danny
  3. Donn, the Index is a Pinned Topic and is always near the top of the "Build Logs for Kits" page. It may move up or down a few places depending on whether there has been a new post made in the other Pinned Topics on that page. It "loses" the Bold Highlighting when you visit it, this can't be changed unfortunately. Danny
  4. Membership total....

    Well that didn't take long . I wonder how we stack up against all the other modelling sites on the net ? Danny
  5. Hi Dan,


    Greg Herbert gave me your name and suggested that I contact you about an order I am looking to place with the Russian site, Ship Models.com.ua. 


    I have never dealt with this supplier and I am looking for a pair of pre-made 78mm long cannon barrels for a group build that I am doing over on SOS with Mike41. The Russian site has the best options that I have found, but I am cautious about sending a bank transfer or wiring money to Russia. Call me paranoid, but I haven't heard if anyone has purchased from him and if it is safe and reliable.


    I was told that you have purchased from this guy and was wondering if you can recommend him.


    Thanks in advance for your help on this, but I am having a difficult time finding a cannon barrel this large for my project anywhere.


    Thanks in advance for your help on this,


    Andrew Purdy

    1. Dan Vadas

      Dan Vadas

      Hi Andrew,


      I had no problems with Ship Models, other than having to wait a while for my gun barrels. Apparently he has someone else cast them for him and he was out of stock of the size I wanted at the time. There were no worries about the money transfer.


      Cheers, Danny

    2. Andrew Purdy

      Andrew Purdy

      Thanks Dan.


      I sent him an email yesterday, but have not heard back yet.




  6. Withdrawal

    Yep, but I think in one way it was a good thing, we cleaned out a lot of stuff that would have taken a long time to do, and finished up with a much better site (the occasional hiccup is the exception). Danny
  7. model ship world photos 004.JPG

    I hate to tell you, but the block is upside-down . Actually, all the blocks I can see are. Danny
  8. micks ship models

    I hate to tell you, but the block in the 004.jpg pic is upside-down . Cheers, Danny
  9. You don't really appreciate how much MSW means to you until it isn't available. Thanks Jim and Dirk for relieving my own withdrawal symptoms . One benefit was that I got a lot more actual modelling done over the last couple of days . Danny
  10. Hello

    G'day Zuko, and another Aussie welcome . If you go to the main page in the Kit Build Logs forum you'll find a Pinned topic near the top of the page which opens a number of Indexes to all the Build Logs on the site. Follow the instructions on opening the Index for Wooden Ship Kits and you'll find 31 build logs for Swift, some have been completed, some abandoned for various reasons, but no doubt you'll find most of the info on building your kit amongst them. Have fun with your build. Danny
  11. That works, but just make sure you don't set it hot enough to burn the wood (if it's adjustable). Danny
  12. Good advice. I actually OVER-bend the planks slightly in certain cases, as it's easier to push the middle of the plank onto the bulkheads (or frames) than the ends. Danny
  13. They're actually called "Frames" Brian, and believe it or not the original ships had this many or more in larger ships. Fairing them is actually easier than doing kit bulkheads a lot further apart . Danny
  14. Brian, if you thought the Norfolk Sloop had some tricky plank shaping .... check out the planking on my scratchbuilt HMS Vulture. It only has the one layer, all done in 1mm Castello and the inside was also visible, so I had to get it all right the first time . There are too many posts to give you a specific link to one that deals with only the hull planking, but HERE is a start. Oh and by the way, the 1st planking on my first wooden model wasn't any better than yours. Once the "lightbulb" goes on you'll be OK with every model after. Keep at it, you'll get the hang of it . Danny
  15. It could be any number of things. 1. If you're starting at the keel, shaping the Garboard Strake (the first one that butts to the keel) is very important. It's different for every ship, and especially on bluff bowed ones with rounded hulls (18th century for example). The top edge (furthest from the keel) should be straight, shape the edge that butts against the keel. The forward end of this plank will finish with a sharp point - that's OK. All other planks should be no less than half their width at the narrowest point. 2. Bear in mind that there are virtually NO runs of planks that are a single width for most of their length (depending again on the shape of the hull - older ships have more taper than. say, Clippers). They will need tapering for a LOT more distance than you have been doing so far. 3. Don't attempt to lay a single plank the length of the hull. It's much easier to lay them in the correct scale length - between 20 and 30 scale feet. Kit bulkheads are usually too far apart to be too critical with these lengths, just go to the nearest one or add extra bulkheads or filler blocks in the bow and stern. 4. Start in the middle of the ship for each run. The planks usually don't need much of a taper in the middle, if any. Bend the plank over the top of the one already fitted to gauge how much will need to be removed from the BOTTOM edge until it gets to half-width. A Stealer will need to start from that point. Shape your plank and glue it in. Leave the stealer until you have fitted the next plank. 5. A good trick is to temporarily fit a plank about every 5 or 6 planks apart for the full length of the hull,without laterally bending them. Measure the distance between the TOPS of the planks at each bulkhead to see how much they will have to be tapered at that point. Mark the bulkheads, and divide the measurement by the number of planks to get the width of each one. If you hit the marks when you get that far you will know you're on track. 6. Thicker planks (0.6mm or more) will need to be edge-bevelled as they curve vertically to avoid gaps. 7. Always dry-fit each plank and reshape it until you are satisfied with the fit before reaching for the glue. If it's shaped and bent correctly you hardly need to clamp it other than to hold it flush to the bulkheads until the glue sets. It goes without saying that the bulkheads should be properly Faired before starting any planking. Take a look at how I did the planking on my Norfolk Sloop to get some ideas. I do a "plank by plank" description in that build log, it won't apply to any other ship but the general method is the same. Danny