BETAQDAVE

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About BETAQDAVE

  • Birthday 12/25/1949

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison, WI
  • Interests
    Previously an avid golfer, swimmer, woodworker, and modeler. Since 2011 restricted to modeling/woodworking in wheelchair.

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  1. And just how did you squeeze that submarine in such a shallow puddle?
  2. Thanks Kurt, that's something to keep in mind in the future. Normally my wife would come along with me, but this past weekend she was closing up her hair salon after 13 years and just had too much to take care of and too little time to do it.
  3. The video worked fine on windows seven. I would have loved to go but was unable to attend as I could not get a copilot to go along. (with my cars' wheelchair lift set up I need someone to hold the umbrella while I transfer in and out, as it takes awhile and I would have been soaked on my own) Rain ,snow or ice is hard to work with when in a wheelchair anyway. Maybe next year!
  4. Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I considered substituting metal for it but I would have a hard time tapering it. Cutting it into two pieces and inserting a metal rod on such a thin piece of wood would be tough also, as end drilling a 1/32" dowel would require much more precision to drill than I could handle. The top mast will be a varnished finish so I may just try a few coats of varnish and see how much strength is gained. The wood I have is beech which has a fairly high rating for bending strength, but I have some hard maple which has a little higher strength rating and similar appearance. Maybe I can locate some hickory which has a much higher strength rating but a very inconsistent coloring. If I'm picky in my selection I can select a piece that has a similar appearance to the beech. Does any one have a source for some hickory or any other wood that could qualify?
  5. When you have a very thin upper mast, is there something that will make a wood mast stronger? I have a topmast dowel that is only 1/32" at its fattest and thus much thinner as it tapers. I'm afraid that the least little tug on the rigging would snap it off. I had thought of soaking it in some kind of varnish or similar product that may harden the wood. Anyone with any other suggestions? Dave
  6. Boy, that is a spectacular job! If only I could ever do so well.
  7. As I have built this same kit and sold it many years ago, I was amazed at all of the extra details that you were able to add to it! When I built mine, I strictly followed the kit plans and directions. The guy that I sold it to was happy with it but after seeing your version, I think I would like to do it over.
  8. 8

    This is quite an impressive project! You seem to have spent a lot of time putting a wealth of very fine detail work into it. I'm only on my second wooden ship model and just getting the feel of working on small scale woodworking projects, but you have shown me just how much detail can be put into them. The carving work alone is very finely done.
  9. Very impressive ship. You did a very professional job of it. I especially liked the carving job you did on it. My grandfather was born and raised in Sweden till he was 22 when he came to America. He was a finish carpenter/ builder and very good at carving. We have a house full of some of the furniture he made from scrap materials collected during the depression with many details that he carved by hand. I would bet he would also have been impressed by your work.
  10.         Nice job!  Quite a handsome collection of all three ships in Columbus' exploration fleet. :)  How long did it take to make all three?  I'm assuming that they are all made to the same scale.

    1. igorsr

      igorsr

      Thak you Dave!

       

      Its hard to say how long i spent to build it, its depend of many things.

      Let it be 6 months for Nina and Pinta,

      6 months for Santa Maria.

       

      Santa Maria scale 1:66

      Pinta scale 1:65

      Nina scale 1:65

       

       

  11. I recently ordered Rigging Period Fore-And-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson. I picked it up from Amazon in the paperback edition for about $24.00. I would highly recommend this book, especially for anyone new to ship modeling that may be confused by the multitude of rigging lines. It’s 111 pages long with about 200 diagrams that clearly show you where each separate item of both standing and running rigging lines are fitted, led, and belayed. The book is divided into three 18th century ship types. The first one is an English 18 gun naval cutter similar to the Expedition. The second section is a French 8 gun 3 masted lugger similar to the Le Coureur. The last section deals with a 2 masted American schooner similar to the Experiment. The book clearly illustrates the details of the connections of the various lines including their attachment points and tackle arrangements. I found it to be well worth the investment. As a matter of fact I plan on getting a copy of his previous book Rigging Period Ship Models.
  12. Back in 84 when we moved into our current home we sold the old house to soon and had to move our stuff into the garage. Things were piled to the ceiling including my modified Revel 1:96 Constitution. In the process of digging our stuff out of the garage and into our new digs the ship set sail and had a too close encounter with the concrete floor. I had just finished it about a month before the move having replaced the plastic deck and masting with wood and was just figuring out where to put it when disaster struck. It is currently still in dry dock for repairs as the only mast to survive was part of the bowsprit. Every time I think about repairs I just cringe and can't seem to get the ambition to get going on it again. Maybe having built it twice before I was tired of it.
  13. Time spent actually doing the work on the ship is only an hour or two a couple times a week. However I spend a lot more time figuring out how I'm going to do the work on whatever portion of the build I plan on doing before I do it. There is usually more than one way to accomplish that task and I keep looking for the best way to handle it. I usually try seeing it in my head before I actually do it on the ship. Avoiding a mistake is usually easier than having to do it over. When ever I was being rushed to finish a job I would always say that there never seems to be enough time to do it right but always time to do it over.
  14. In my case just about all of the ships that I have built and sold were just sold for the price of the kit. I never thought to make a profit, just to have the fun of building it and getting another one to take it's place. I always thought it was like having the fun of the building the ship for free!
  15. Welcome to MSW from an old WI cheese head. My two cents would be to go with something simple but not too small a scale. My first wooden ship was the Challenge, an A.J. Fisher kit at 1/8" scale great lakes schooner. That was an enjoyable build, but the scale was a real hard one to deal with for a first attempt. I built it for a former Coast Guardsman so I had motivation to plow ahead with it anyway. I had previous experience with 1/8" scale plastic ships but a lot of the small parts in those kits (especially in the rigging), were actually out of scale and easier to handle. Perhaps the Dancing Feather by the same company would be a better choice as the scale is a bit bigger at 3/16" scale. The rigging is a lot simpler than a square rigged ship, something that a first time builder can find to be quite frustrating. Check out their new website at www.ajfisher.com.