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Barbossa

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Everything posted by Barbossa

  1. Perhaps, we're digressing a bit, but this specific topic is worth expanding and maybe other Pegasus fans might benefit from this. Comparison between a 18 lbs gun ( my La Vénus -project )and the gun + carriage provided with the HMS Pegasus Amati kit. Although it is also worth mentioning that regarding this French ship, the eyebolt was fixed more in the rear of the carriage ( according to the Boudriot plan ), which creates even more space for the rigging. SO : I've made my mind up. PS : I do not entend to use the Amati kit's falconets
  2. This is sound advice, Bug Sincere thanks for your input. The moreover, here's some pics of my San Felipe ( finished in 2006 ) : no rigging of the guns or falconets whatsoever. Which I deeply regret. The fact that this build proceeded my MSW membership may be just a convenient excuse. The point is : if I had the choice between : 1) let us call it a minimalistic approach ( less eyebolts ) 2) the whole package, with a high possibility I'll create a jumble of threads & knots 3) no rigging at all I'll settle for the first option. Another thing : let us not forget that a 18lbs gun carriage ( my previous build HMS Diana ) is way bigger Aside, a word about the colors. I'm a bit reluctant painting the guns 100% black, so I went for the AV 70862 Black Grey and a highlighted a bit the edges and collars with AV 70864 Natural Steel. Just a try out
  3. Being doubtful about the matter, here's something I'd like to submit. Regarding the rigging of the guns, especially the blocks on the gun carriages. The iedea is to omit the fixing of the eyelets thus to avoid the bulky knots in this area and create more space and visibility for the rigging itself. The thing is that the eyelets are already a bit out of scale ( to big ! ). So both extremities of the black thread went through te hole that was initially entended for the eyelet. From both sides a knot and some cyano glue secured the whole thing, see the upside down pic. I know, this is not by the book, but it's a ( more or less clean solution ) Thoughts, criticism, disagreements, alternatives are welcome
  4. Nice, clean and crisp work And very motivating too, as I face the rigging part on my build with some apprehension. Looking for alternatives regarding thread, yarn, ropes is definitely an asset , I understand.
  5. Thanks for the kind words, Bug. As you may have noticed , I'm following your build with great interest. Imho, HMS Pegasus is a recommendable kit with great potential when it comes to improve, add own interpretations, color schemes....etc Also thanks to all the likes.
  6. You're welcome, Sir. Compared to walnut, Boxwood may me expensive but I can assure you that it is money well spent. Plenty of availability in the US, I.guess By the way, regarding the 2*2 decoration strips : mark the position on the first planking and anticipate the necessary space while proceeding the second planking. Thus you can insert the 2*2 strips, which avoid difficult painting afterwards.
  7. And finally a word about the transom/tafferal I proceede more or less the same way as I did by realising the quarterbadges. For aesthetic reason I added an extra strip to piece n° 115 .As I had to deal with different layers one above the other such as : the grey paper, the plastic, and n°115 , I duplicated n° 114 out of a piece of birchwood but with a 0,5 mm thickness instead of its original 1,5 thickness. This as a measure of compensation. Accordingly to the quarterbadges, I fixed the ornaments following the instructions. Which brings me to the Norman knights. I tried altarnatives such as mermaids but these trials were very inconclusive, the least to say. Another concern -again aesthetically speaking- was the necessity to provide those knights with a kind of support instead of leave them "hanging in the void". See next pic. The only issue left was to file this until they fitted properly with the hull, then I took care adding pieces 336-335. Finally a word about the decoration strips all along thee port and starboard side. I Used 2x2mm boxwood strips which I could eventually bend ( after several attempts ) to follow the curve of the bow section. But boxwood is great stuff. These strips required some carving : I used a micro shaper for that purpose. The 2*2 strip is pointing towards the profile I employed. So there you have it. Feel free to react, give feedback,...
  8. Related to the quarterbadges : here's the second and last part : On both sides : a small strip of wood to secure the plastic And glue part 308 with the inserted PE-windows Again : be conservative with the glue. Here's the final result : the dolphin ornaments (315 and 316 ) allow bending upon the more or less spherical surface. Though the bird ( bottom piece ) is a different story. By consequence piece 333 is a small sacrifice, and 334 was the only doable ornament in this area Finally, instead of fixing parts 338 next to the quarterbadge, I glued them on both sides which was pretty convenient. So that's it. Next post will be related to the trasom/tafferal.
  9. The quarter badges, just my approach : (part 1 ) Much has been said in previous builds about the matter : nonetheless : striving for a more 3 D-effect is (imho ) definitely a plus. At first I made a bottom and top piece which a glued upon piece nr.307 ( starboard side ) : once fixed, this allows a better finetuning of the necessary filingwork. A third element from scratch is to fit between bottom and top piece. Made it big enough, to create a little tension on part 307 making so it would decribe a small curve : it's destination on the hull surface isn't flat either. Again : part 307 is fragile so caution is required Accordingly to the shape of the the 3rd piece , I made a grey paper and plastic strip. The thing is that I was anxious to avoid awkward bending pieces 308 and 314 . The the delicate windows on the backside of piece 308. Most challenging was fixing the plastic upon the grey paper with cyanoglue. Needless to say : be ultraconservative with the glue.
  10. As promised yesterday, here's some extra info : At first a general remark : I'll mention some brands of whom I have no commercial benefit whatsoever but they just worked out fine for me. 1. The hull : ( see pic ) As you may have noticed : I'm done with coppering. It took me a while finding the just shade of white color beneath the waterline until a wellknown modelbuilding specialist in Antwerp advised me AV white grey 71.119. It's just perfect.😀 I took care of fixing a primer : Tamiya surface primer does the job. The white paint was applied with my Badger Patriot airbrush. The black paper strip is not by the book but looks pleasant to the eye. 2. Inner bulwarks and other areas painted in red. AV vermillion 70.909 : don't be afraid to dilute if necessary 3. The black paint = DIY-store 4. All brass ornaments : I'm no longer into the "bling-bling" so I went for the AV New wood 311 Next post : the quarter badges
  11. If not, it would be shameful. The moreover : I invested in boxwood for the gun area above the wales, as you will have noticed.
  12. Hi Folks, I've set my semi scratch project ( La Vénus ) on hold. Maybe some members wil recognise the feeling : filling a tank with gas-petrol-whatever...just to progress a few meters/yards. So I've started this nice kit that was almost for a decade collecting dust on the shelf. Here's the present status. ( part 1 ) I'll deliver some extra explanations next post(s), the next few days : especially regarding the quarter badge Special thanks to all members who "paved the way" regarding this subject.
  13. Good luck with this challenging project. Google and to be more specific, Wikipidia show us an interesting image of a Wappen von Hamburg shipmodel emplaced in a church (?) Never understood why Corel did not use this model as a starting point to commercialize their kit.
  14. Hello, Better late than never, I came across your buildlog. Deck planking is clean and crisp, nice work !
  15. Related to the bathroom, installing "seats of ease" accordingly to period ships is no option, I presume ?🙂
  16. As all your previous builds, a real delight to follow although your last comment caught my uttermost attention : "Four months into the build.." : and the progress on the hull is more than obvious. It is amazing how much the quality of (some) brands of kits have improved, thus allowing both speed and workmanship. Most impressive.
  17. ... ( was interrupted) If I dare speaking so : the 1/64 scale is a very good compromise between size, difficulty, and detail
  18. Hello Dave, Well at first sight we can not ignore the evolution in the (plastic) kit market. Many of us remember the Airfix standards : 1/72 when WW II planes were involved and 1/600 for HMS Hood, Bismarck, etc...At present Trumpeter has the same ships on a 1/200 scale at our disposal, not to mention the 1/48 U-boat. Although 1/700 is still popular ( Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell,...) but many plastic ship brands seem to stick to the 1/350 scale. Worth mentioning : the PhotoEtch aftermarket. Wooden ships: I don't know as many (not all) Jean Boudriot monographs as well in the past as at present suggest a 1/48 scale. Be it in scratch building. Another thing is the choice of your model : a big ship (the obvious HMS Victory) in a 1/90 scale or an elegant schooner or chebec ( Occre Cazador ) in 1/60? Both are challenging : the line up of 3 impressive rows of guns or the extra detail a 1/60 and certainly a 1/48 scale might offer ? Talking about gunnery : IMHO, the rigging of the guns is probably more realistic in a large scale (1/48 => 1/64) and also more "doable" rather than in a1/90 or 1/100 scale. Sails ? Same story, I guess. Are you planning to build several ships ? Working in the same scale can be an advantage, but this is only me talking. My conclusion ( if I da
  19. You're welcome Mark. Thanks for all the likes. Oops : only now I realize an error related to the update . The correct reference of the AV Dark Grey color ( which I found the most suitable for the "hinges-job" ) is definitely AV 70.994 Dark Grey and not AV 70.862 ( Black Grey ) as the 3rd pic on the first update erroneously suggests.
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