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About moreplovac

  • Birthday 03/30/1955

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  1. No worries, at least we are sure we both read each other' posts 🙂
  2. They are looking very nice; what is the size of deadeyes?
  3. Continue with work on shrouds and run out of black rope.... had to redo the shrouds. I build them one rope run per block which is not quite true. Practicum mentioned correct way but i was not clear how it supposed to be done. A bit of a research and question answered. One rope run will have to be enough length to cover two blocks. Ordered few more but it will arrive in a week. More and more thinking of making my own ropes... Happy modeling
  4. Yes, that is the process. Smaller size rope that match required seizing is wrapped tightly, around an objects (usually a nail) that is slightly "lubricated" with a wax so the glue does not stick to the nail. One end of the rope (beginning) is attached to a weight (custom made with alligator clips). The rope is then wrapped around; when it is done another weight is attached to other end of the rope, the tiny layer of glue is applied over seizing to make sure the rope does not fall apart. Then it is removed from the nail with tweezers or some other tool. It assist with making shrouds and other rigging tasks. The challenge is to make a seizing that matches the dimension of rigging rope since the second end of the rigging rope has to go thru the same seizing that already have one rope run thru it. And to make sure that cyano glue does not show too much on seizing so it start bothering with its 'whitish' appearance. I am also contemplating to make the same type of seizing but wrapped around the object that is more flat instead being a nail; this should be enough to make it more like a real thing: two ropes, parallel to each other with a flat seizing around them... Here is very good site that has plenty of details about this and other techniques and tools but does require a subscription (http://www.shipmodeling.ca/subs/aa123.html ). Cheers
  5. Work on shrouds started with making some zip seizing.. First line is in. I used this line to check the positioning of chain plates to make sure they will line up with shroud. One chain plate is a bit out of line and need to be adjusted very slightly. The seizing for a line was not put in final position, have to make sure that other seizing sits nicely and that the whole assembly looks neat. There will be four pair of shrouds per mast. The 0.25 black ridging line was used for this task. I decided to mount all shrouds, position them properly so seizing lined up neat and then start with dead eye seizing.. The rope was cut to correct length for few shrouds.. The end of a rope was freeze with small amount of glue and straight to make running thru per-build seizing easier. Here will do some repositioning of seizing to make then stay nice and neat. The end of rope was secured with a piece of scotch tape so it does not come in the way to other ropes. Happy modeling.
  6. Getting ready for rigging and wrapping up work with blocks.. As per practicum, blocks in different size were installed. It was a bit of challenge since the masts were mounted already but not a big deal.. 3mm blocks under trestle trees of both masts lashed to eye bolts and mounted in the pilot holes... Masts waiting rigging. Happy modeling.
  7. A work on masts have been completed. The 3mm single whip blocks were mounted to correct position in front of masts. Then it was a time to install the masts. I decided to use carpenter glue to glue masts to the ship, which would give me a bit of time to properly position them and make sure they are straight.. First the main mast was in.. Then the foremast... And both were on ... Now i have to make sure when moving the ship around and reaching out for tools; masts are tall... Happy modeling.
  8. I was very close to make the metal one since i am trying to follow practicum but a night before, i looked some other ship building logs and noticed nice work on wooden coats so decided to give it a try...
  9. I am keeping track of my "want to do it differently" notes during my Sultana journey so i totally understand you.. 🙂 Every time i stumbled upon other' Sultana build logs i have the same moment... Thanks..
  10. A bit of a work continued today by making a footropes on bowsprit and mast coats. A tan rope, 0.018 in size was used to make a ropes. Seizing was done in my favorite way: wrap the rope (for a seizing) on a needle which diameter is very close to double of the thickness of the rope i will be seizing. Needle was waxed a bit so the seizing can be removed easily. Then i drop of a glue is applied on seizing to freeze it so it can be removed from the needle. The seizing is cut to correct size that fits the requirements. Both ends of the future footropes are glued so pushing them thru the seizing opening will not be a challenge. After that, few knots were made with a smaller diameter rope and footropes are mounted on the ship. The footropes should be a bit loose and not tightly mounted. Then i made a mast coats (or wedges as described in instruction). Practicum suggested to use a wire but i decided to make it out of the wood. Scrap piece of wood, about 1.5mm think was a perfect candidate. The center hole matching the diameter of the mast where coats will be located. A little bit of cutting, sanding, more sanding and the correct shape was achieved. Testing on a foremast... And one more was made for main mast... I decided to keep them in a wood color, so the layer of golden oak was applied. So the masts are almost ready for mounting; ran out of black color so still waiting for an order to arrive... Once in, another layer of flat black will be applied to the top of the masts and they will be ready for mounting.. Now the ship starts to get correct size and shape so i have to be more careful and not to break parts that are sticking out and up... Happy modeling.
  11. Thanks Lou, that was very helpful; i will try to do it again, it might be successful, who knows. I also find few posts by Doris on another forums and some youtube videos... Cheers
  12. Thanks, I was unable to do anything with sculpey scrolls after baking process, except to sand it... I might need to do a bit more research on this part.. I will check some postings on forums. Cheers.
  13. To make it up for figure head i decided to rope the bowsprit. First i drilled the pilot holes for eyebolts that will hold the shrouds. Then the eye bolts were dipped into blackening solution for few minutes, dried and mounted to the ship. Then i measure the length of laniards from the plan and used a piece of wire to have a template that will use for all laniards for all shrouds. For the purpose of keeping the lines tight, i had to modify an alligator clamp and file all those sharp teeth. Then inserted a piece of wood in up and bottom part, sharp it so it can close flat... First shroud completed. For laniard i was using tan ridding, as per practicum and ended up to be interesting. Second shroud completed. Then i started to rig the bobstay. IT was rigged with black rigging line, doubled along its entire length. The process of keeping the rigging line tight was a bit of a challenge but i made it thru. So the end result for today... For some weird reason i really do like rigging part of ship building. It is slow, precise process that requires patience, few tweezers and a good glasses :-). Happy modeling..
  14. Well, i have tried and decided to go with model that represents Sultana after figure head was removed by Royal Navy after it was purchased. According to practicum it was not clear if figure head was replaced with something else. This detail will definitely make the model more interesting but unfortunately my carving skills and available tools i have, are not up to the challenge and i will need to pass it for this time. These are my two attempts to carve the figure. Also tried to go with practicum and experiment with sculpey but was not sure how can i remove the figure form the ship to get it baked once i carve it to acceptable level. It would be very easy to damage the figure during removal process. I bit more research and practice will make it perfect for some other building attempts. For now, no figure.. Happy modeling

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