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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. I agree! Too many times we see models with the garboard running much too far forward and up onto the stem area. Allan
  2. Super welcome to MSW. NICE MODEL.😀 Allan
  3. I wish I could find a source as complete as McMaster Carr, but at a little better price. Looking at other suppliers such as DBW, which they claim are all US and/or German made bits, the prices are even higher so MC may be the best way to go. Any sources you or anyone else can share would be appreciated. Allan
  4. I like how you secured the waist rail in place for the full run first rather than trying to put individual pieces. For me this is the easier way to get a smooth line the entire length. She is looking great! Allan
  5. Nicely done Glenn!!!! I don't recall if this came up previously, but for your carriage axles, if not for this build, maybe for the future, have you seen post #129 of https://modelshipworld.com/topic/29563-hm-brig-sloop-flirt-1782-by-glbarlow-vanguard-models/page/5/#comment-858504 to easily make round axles rather than square with radiused corners? Then again if the trucks are precut with their center holes, the fit might not work. Allan
  6. Hi Mike, I may be misinterpreting but are you saying the kit in the photos are not available to MSW members? Thanks Allan
  7. Just joined the party and happy that I did. She is looking really fine Steve! It appears that you tapered the knee of the head, which is fantastic. Was this part of the kit instructions or was this based on your own research? Allan
  8. Herbert, Were you able to you roll on the paint while it was hanging vertically as well? Thank you Allan
  9. We did that for our boys too. The older one asked if he had Wicky Gums when he was a baby after seeing us doing this for his younger brother.
  10. And cocaine in Coca Cola..... ahhh the good ole days. Found the following which may be made up as to quantity but funny none the less “The first bottles of Coca-Cola from 1894 contained around 3.5 grams of cocaine, explains why our grandparents could walk to & from school, uphill, both ways, in the snow, barefoot.”
  11. For some years prior to copper sheathing the bottom was coated with what I believe was a mixture of pitch and tallow and this was possibly applied liberally over everything below the water line, including the pintles and gudgeons (the banding you mention). To the contrary, the beautiful paintings of 17th century ships in The Master Shipwrights Secrets show the pintles and gudgeons darker, but these are modern paintings rather the contemporary. A search of contemporary models on the RMG Collections site might show some examples for you to consider. For the future, maybe take a look at contemporary drawings to get an idea of the size and design of real pintles and gudgeons. As you know there were recent posts in https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/page/3/#comment-996293 regarding the sizes and such of these rudder components and how to accurately depict them at various scales. Allan
  12. Hi Darious Have you looked at the contemporary inboard profile and orlop deck plans of Victory on the RMG Collections site? Each drawing has a scale so you can get a measurement then adjust for whatever scale your model is. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79912 and https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79914 These are low resolution so it may be a little difficult, but they are free. If you are going into that kind of detail you may want to consider purchasing the high res plans from RMG. These are from when Victory was launched in 1765 so there may be differences, but you can also get the well and shot locker dimensions for first rates in Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships on pages 117 and 118. These dimensions are taken from The Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 and Steel's The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, 1805. Allan
  13. Dean points out a great drawing as Dragon is a sister to Bellona. This drawing can also be found in very high resolution in the WikiCommons site. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich It is 127.6 mb so does not attach here. Allan
  14. Based on the scantlings for a 74 in both the Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 and Steel's The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture 1805 the lower wale is made up of four strakes of planking. They should be about 10 to 12" wide (0.1" at your scale of 1:100) which makes it about 40 to 48 inches wide in total. These were likely made up of anchor stock planking, not straight pieces, but that is for another day. The SR, gives a thickness of 8.5" and the EPNA gives a thickness of 8". At your scale of 1:100 the total width is thus just under 1/2" wide (10-12mm) and 0.08-0.085" thick (2mm) . The planking below are gradually thinner, reducing over several strakes to 4", or 0.04" thick (1mm). The strake above the main wale is the black strake and is about 6.5 to 7" thick. The strake above the black strake is 5"thick. Both are 12" broad. I hope this makes some sense. Hopefully the following sketch will help a little Allan
  15. Lots of progress, she is looking good! Have you looked at the posts on the reducing of the thickness of knee of the head? It is a long string with many comments, but worth the read, especially the post by Chuck Passaro https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34577-taper-of-the-keel-stem-knee-of-the-head-and-stern-post/ When you go to add the wales, note that the drawing in post #36 is not as seen on contemporary models or plans as the wales should be diminished in thickness at the bow in order to seat properly in the rabbet. There is a good discussion on this at https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34868-wales-diminishing-thickness-at-the-bow/ Allan
  16. This is key to avoid the look of a Viking ship hull. As has been suggested many times by many members, study the tutorial by David Antscherl on planking in the Articles Data Base here at MSW and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro . Both methods work well. If you are making planks from sheet stock spiling is great. If you only have precut strips that are the same width from one end to the other, follow the steps in the videos by Chuck. For more information look at a few planking expansion drawings to get an idea of the shape of planking at RMG Collections. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/planking expansion Allan
  17. The Excel 7/16" stock wheel with 14 points would be very close for marking the spacing of the fixture at 1:85 scale. As the straps were secured with a combination of screws and bolts, the pounce wheel may not be a good idea for other than marking the spacing though as one or two would be bolt heads on each pintle strap and the other indented like screws. Just like the pintles the gudgeons were sometimes secured to the hull with a combination of screws and bolts but sometimes only with bolts. There is a lot more to the shape and taper in thickness but at 1:85, probably not so noticeable. David Antscherl gives a lot of really good detail on these in volume II of TFFM. Allan
  18. Hi Rick Sounds like it should do the trick for you. Please post pics of the end results. I looked at the Excel pounce wheels on Amazon and the small (1/4") wheel does 24 points per inch so really close to the spacing for your scale on the one long and one short row at the two outer edges and the larger wheels look good for the punch marks in the center row. They quote a 2 day delivery so really good. Allan
  19. Are you planning to use this for copper sheathing? If that is the case, keep in mind that the sheathing never had rivets, but rather 1/4" nails with about 0.5" heads spaced a couple inches apart. Depending on your scale, these will be from near invisible to the tiniest of dents. They should never stick out as seen in some modern models. Look at the copper sheathing from Vanguard and newest ones from Amati that Dave posted in his log.https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34080-hms-diana-1794-by-davebaxt-caldercraft-164/page/5/ post #127, third photo down. Hopefully the following sketch will help. If you are referring to your current build of the USF Essex 1:76 scale, the dimensions show full scale and 1:76 Allan
  20. The enlargement below might help as well. Thanks for posting this Martes!! It is very clear that the thickness is diminishing, and seems to be slightly thicker than the surrounding strakes at the rabbet. That being the case, how does it sit in the rabbet? Must it be carved to sit in the rabbet with a little sticking out or is the rabbet chiseled to accept the full thickness of the end of the wale? I realize at our scales this will be barely, if at all, noticeable. Allan
  21. Thank you Chris. The drawing you posted is SUPER. What I am curious about is whether all yards on all rates up to and including royals, had this feature on the actual ships. Interestingly I found that this design did not start until circa 1690. The British started making the large spars from two pieces scarfed together from 1773. In that case, 8 battens were used in the mid quarter rather than the 8 sided shape of the spar itself. For modeling purposes, the use of battens may be an alternative to get the look of the octagon. Allan
  22. Thinking about this a bit further, when working at the small scales like your build, you might want to forget drilling holes and just epoxy the pintles and gudgeons in place if you use copper or plastic or brass parts or pva glue if you use card stock. In either case, once they are secured in place you can use a needle tip to make tiny bolt heads on the straps by dipping it in glue and making the requisite number of dots on the straps and a clean needle tip to make dents representing screws. For the bolt heads I make a small puddle of PVA and add a tiny bit of black acrylic paint so it does not have to painted once set. It does not take much but a little experimenting will help. Allan
  23. Great suggestion. I agree that in this case it is good to pin the rudder in place. IF you want the rudder to be able to turn, then working metal parts are best. A last alternative is to draw the parts in 3D and have them printed in 3D. These could be the most realistic looking parts at smallest scales if drawn accurately. Allan
  24. The finish on your hull planking looks very nicely done! Regarding the wales at the bow in the pictures in post # 12 above, you may want to see a recent discussion on the tapering of the thickness of the wales. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34868-wales-diminishing-thickness-at-the-bow/ Thanks for sharing your build! Allan
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