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allanyed

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Posts posted by allanyed


  1. I assume you are silver soldering so an iron would not work,   I have a block of material made for soldering at most any temperature.  It is soft enough to dig into it which I have done on numerous occasions to hold a piece in place.  Hard to describe in words so if my explanation is unclear, I can try to post a photo or two to give you an idea of what has worked for me.   Using a wire to hold things in place does work but you would need to make sure it cannot be heated to the same temperature.  Clip on an alligator clip on the piece not to be soldered and it will draw away enough heat to keep the hold down piece from being soldered.  If it is still a problem, clip to the wire that is not to be soldered with a wet piece of cloth or tissue in the alligator clip as well.   

    Allan


  2. I suspect the shape may have varied depending on the nation, era, builder, etc.   One example is the drawing of the Hampton Court 1709 decks.  https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/384163.html   Looking at the lower gun deck  it seems clear that the chain pump tubes were square and the brake or suction (elm tree) pumps were round.    Lavery gives a good bit of detail on both chain and brake pumps pages 72-79 in the Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War and the chain pump tubes are square while the brake pumps were round.  He mentions that in 1804 metal tubes were tried but without much success and it was permitted to use pitch pine in place of elm in starting in 1807.

     

    Allan


  3. Pieter

     

    The short answer is I do not think there were any brass railings on any ship of the line in the 18th century.  These would all be wood, and most likely painted or other wise protected.    If you choose to go with wood  they are easy to make with home made cutters made from pieces of an old hacksaw blade or stiff back single edge razor.  That said, if you choose to use the brass in the kit, I imagine they can be  painted any color you feel is appropriate, be it black, a wood tone, or left alone as you mention.

     

    Allan


  4. Paul

     

    I may be way off base here, but I don't think there are supposed to be gun ports cut into the bulkhead for the chase guns.   Photos of Artois class ships, including Diana, at the NMM Collections site do not have ports for these guns.   The photo below is from NMM for Diana  http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66533.html

     

    Allan

     

    2134886030_Diana1794.thumb.jpg.0308e58b7e63ef3a7acdcd0561f95aaf.jpg


  5. If you cannot make a master yourself, maybe just buy one of each size then make a mold and cast your own as suggested above.   The cost of making a silicone mold then casting with resin or pewter or similar lead free metal will be less than buying all of them.  There was a recent post on casting barrels here, so could give you an idea on what is involved if want to go in that direction.  If you do buy a single barrel for each size, be sure they are to scale for your needs and contemporary in design as there were differences over the years in both long guns and differences in carronades, albeit smaller differences.  Good luck

    Allan


  6. I realize this string is over a year old now, but as I just ordered a set of chisels from Mihail that he is targeting to ship early February I would like any information on sharpening based on members' experience that have used his or similar sized micro chisels.   I use the Veritas for relatively larger chisels but gather from earlier posts that this does not work for the micro chisels.   I am envisioning a triangular block with various angles of 25 degrees, et al to hold the chisel at the proper angle when honing on a stone and then stropping but this seems almost too simple.  In addition,  I have a small leather stropping pad and stropping compound, but if there are suggestions on a better stropping device, I am all ears.  

    Allan


  7. Paul,

    You may be correct in that there may have been a few fingers on the deck, but keep in mind these sails were not used except with lighter winds, or as Harland describes in Seameanship in the Age of Sail, in reasonable conditions.  In these conditions, when the wind was near abeam, the weather side studdingsails might come out.  The lee side would not be used unless the wind was about dead aft.  Keep in mind, the topsail yard studding sails and even the topgallant yard studding sails saw more use than the lower yard studding sails.  Regarding the lower yards, the foreyard studding sails were used far more than the those on the main yard.   The main lower studdingsails fell out of use completely after about 1800.   

    There was a lot of rigging involved with the sails themselves and described in great detail on how they were rigged and used in Harland's book for anyone interested.

     

    Allan


  8. Hi Antonio

    Your photo appears to the booms tied to the spar with line instead of mounted with iron rings.   What ship/year/nation is your model?   The mounting varied with nation and era, but I do not believe they were ever tied with rope of any kind.  For example for British ships that carried stunsail booms there were two boom irons on each side of the yard.  For British ships the rings through which the booms passed lean forward 45 degrees up to 1850 then they were at 22.5 degrees.  They do not sit straight up on the spar nor do they lay in a flat plane as you show in your photo.  The outboard  ring through which the boom passes had a roller in them after 1773.   The inner ring through which the boom passes was hinged after 1773.  Dutch ships carried the booms abaft the yards.

    The outer rings were fitted with straps and bolts to the end of the yard and the inner rings were about 1/3 of the length of the boom in from the end of the yard.

    Hope this helps.  Lees shows some very detailed drawings of the boom irons. 740330420_Boomirons.JPG.e240f0a3c23601bdbddbf4e06187095a.JPG

    Allan


  9.  Looking at contemporary model photos, there seems to be no end to the shapes on each model, but Ed's tutorial should work well for any of them, just be careful whether your ship's blocks would have had rope strops or metal as on the more "modern" clipper.   I saw a video or series of photos quite a while ago that showed shaped cutting bits used on a mill to cut the outside shape so every block was shaped the same.   Each size block had a different cutter, but they were beautifully done.   Barring the above, I would go with Chuck's blocks.

     

    Allan


  10. Antonio

    FWIW the sling cleats in the center don't look quite right and I doubt very much that there would be the partial ring shown on the kit yard to attach to the mast.  The yards would likely use parrels and or some type of sling.  The cleats at the end of the yard should hold up well with just gluing them on with carpenter's glue, no need to make a slot.  There are Connie experts on this forum and can probably share more details with you.  Be sure to rig the various buntline blocks, lift blocks, brace pendants, etc. to the yard before putting the yards to the masts. It is much easier to seize these to the yards while off the model.

    Good luck on your build!!

    Allan

     

     


  11. Ed

    There are probably several good sources, but Lees Masting and Rigging is a great source to get into the details down to attaching buntlines, leech lines, bowlines &c. to the sails themselves as well as the rigging from the sails to their belaying points.

     

    Allan

     

     


  12. I am awed at your work Doris.   This may have been asked before, so apologies if this is a repeat question.  Do you have any problems with the wax paper melting in the oven?   I did little reading on this subject and have seen recommendations to use parchment paper in place of wax paper.  

     

    Thank you for sharing your work with us.

     

     

    Allan


  13. Thank you Dave and Henry

    Henry, I was actually looking for the belaying point of the fore topsail buntlines not the bowlines.  I did have the same description for the bowlines that you gave from several sources, so we are in agreement, thank you very much for your reply.  

     

    The fore topsail buntlines appear to belay to the main topsail bowline bitts and that was my dilemma, finding where these bitts were located.

    Dave you pegged it, I found them on the one drawing in Lees  and it is shown as you described it.   My fault for not searching a "bitt" harder.  

     

    Thanks again

     

    Allan


  14. This is probably an easy one for someone out there, but I have not been able to find where the main top bowline bitts are located.   These are referenced in various sources as a belaying point for the main topsail buntlines, but I cannot find a drawing that shows where these are actually located.  Thank you for any help that can be provided.

    Allan


  15. Sorry for the very late reply, been traveling a bit this past week.

     

    1. what rubber mould brand did you use? I used Micro-Mark 1-to-1/ Rapid RTV Silicone, and it was surprisingly fragile. You can see how it broke out in the mould I showed earlier. Did you find something more durable?  

    I purchased molding and casting materials from Polytek (https://www.polytek.com/)   They were extremely helpful in selecting the right materials a they have many.  The next time I am in need I will likely use them again.  

     

    2. Did you provide any vents for gasses, or is it not needed with such a simple form? No vents were used, but I was careful to tap and vibrate the mold for some minutes to bring any air to the top.   

     

    3. When you pour the metal, do you leave the rubber mould in its forming box so it doesn't distort?   Yes, for both resin or metal.   For the resin I left the material in the mold for some hours to be sure it was cured.  For metal, I left it until cool enough to touch without burning fingers.   

     

    4. Do you use the Micro Mark lead free pewter? The pewter was given to me by a friend/client some years back.  Their business is machining to make a variety of molds and items and had a lot of experience with materials, but I don't know any details on the metal itself.  They gave me about 5 or 10 pounds of the stuff so enough for a LOT of cannon barrels.  FYI If you go to resin, there are dies that can be added to make black barrels rather than painting, but I have not tried it.

     

    Allan

     


  16. I may be going out on a limb, but I think you are correct, there is no such rigging as shown in the photo.  Crow's feet of various designs were used in this area on many nationalities' ships.   I have not seen any description (so far) of rigging as shown in the photo you posted in Lees, Anderson, or other credible sources.  The crow's feet came in a variety of designs from simple to complex.  The sketch below I THINK is more typical than that shown in the photo. Where the photo shows knots, there would be blocks, and where the photo shows a single block, there likely would be a long block. 

    Is this model a kit of the Gallicia or some other vessel?  

     

    Allan

     

    697841909_Crowsfeet.JPG.d1396daa499e0d2756233e2465a897f5.JPG


  17. Mark

    One more option that you may want to consider.  I have never been able to cast the cannon with a mold made of two sides without a seam, no matter how careful and accurate the molds are made.  They have to be filed and finished which takes a lot of time and there is still the possibility of leaving filing and finishing marks on the surface.  I experimented and succeed using a one piece silicone rubber mold that eliminated the seam.  The barrels can be removed with little effort and no damage to the mold in my experience.   I tried both lead free pewter and casting resin.  Both worked well.   The only part that creates a problem are the trunnions which I added to the cast barrels separately as can be seen in the photo of the casting resin barrel.  

    Just another idea you might want to consider.

    2000194342_Cannoncasting2.jpg.ed3e59c7b696defa1f16d00fecd6597c.jpg1856464937_Cannoncasting.jpg.5fc0b0a28d3d976fb6c235de780587a4.jpg

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