• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Norfolk VA

Recent Profile Visitors

408 profile views
  1. An advantage with scratch building is that a reasonable set of plans is all you need to start. The one tool you do not mention is a saw capable of resawing 1" and 2" lumber into stock for use with a thickness sander and the Byrnes saw. A 14" bandsaw is ideal, a tablesaw can do it, but is more unforgiving and the loss to kerf is about twice or more. For detailed plans ANCRE offers a sizable inventory of monographs of individual vessels and several are of a vessel complexity that would make a prudent choice as an initial project: cutter, brig, schooner. These are French in origin and there are also other smaller indigenous types. The French products are generally elegant in design and appearance. On cursory thought, the similar monographs for English or American vessels are 3 mast - larger vessels that can be a bit over whelming for a beginner.
  2. I have the Unimat SL1000 and it sets up as a mill. I ordered a spare Al bed and intend to cut and mount it at the rear center of the ways to get full excursion up and down the ways. I have not done it yet. I also got the lathe duplication jig from Penn Valley. My focus has been on lofting and framing so I have not needed either function for a while.
  3. Dan, I was commenting on the book. I had not seen this topic until you revived it Anyway, I checked and my reprint is of the 1805 edition and Plate 38 is the last in the Plates supplement volume.
  4. Allan Yedlinsky - SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805 Seawatch Books is much easier to use and has much more data. I have a reprint of Steel by Sim Comfort but the Yedlinsky volume is easier to use -
  5. It is hard to miss on the late night cable channels that I cycle thru, but anyway, would Flex Seal liquid work as a molding medium?
  6. What would covering the model with a layer of something like - Cling or Saran Wrap do? It may protect and make release easier. Slits and overlap to avoid pockets and bunching.
  7. The lines at the end meet the stem and sternpost at bit lower, so the outside looks like it may be outside the planking. Very useful for solid hull construction where the whole bottom is to be coppered. The Station line positions are defined on the Profile (Buttock) plan. As for the legend, for me, not reading French is complicated by my not being able to read the font.
  8. Going with 3D computer orientation: Waterlines are the X/Z plane at set Y intervals parallel to the defined base line. For most vessel, the baseline is in line with the keel. At an angle in vessels with drag. The Buttock lines are the Y/Z plane at set X intervals. The Station lines or Body plan (Sections) are the X/Y plane. The intervals for the WL usually equal and the same for Buttock lines. The Stations are often farther apart in the center area and at closer intervals as they approach the stem and sternpost -as the rate of change significantly increases. Usually, a Station line defines the shape of the center of a Bend. Bend = a pair of frames with overlapping butt joins ( original meaning of Scarf - side-by-side ) They are useful for defining POB mould shapes. Not so much for POF in the traditional methods used - especially if the bevels for a bend are cut after the pair are glued up.
  9. I would scan both and in a drawing program Cut the background, then overlay the two layers and see if they are identical. The intersection at the rabbet of the fore and aft most sections look different. The lower shows the LWL as being higher aft. The top has an indication of a keel with drag, but not the bottom. My guess: top = sections perp. to the Waterlines. Bottom = perp to the keel. The negative factor- the top still has a horizontal rabbet in mid ship. The concept that I work from: the French favored all paired bends with no filling frames. The spaces - larger. The upper timbers did not reduce in sided dimension as much. They also reversed the order of Floor timber/Futtock 1 on either side of the mid ship bend. From Brian Lavery in Wooden Warship Construction - the French ships were not built to be as robust as the English ships - with a greater focus on speed and maneuverability.
  10. Consider: protect the sternpost surface with a layer or two of painter's tape ( renew PRN ) and plane / scrape / sand the planking to get smooth transition. Neither Lloyd's nor the ASA are going to be checking the plank thickness so as long as it looks correct - its all good.
  11. If you wish to try the concept and are in US : Harbor freight has a generic version of this tool - $ 33 with the 20% discount $27. I have not bitten, so I can't rate the quality or durability. I did get their 4 x 36 belt sander - during a periodic sale - plus 20% coupon - it was ~ $ 50 I have not used it much yet, but it is sturdy - did not mount the disc sander attachment.
  12. Should you wish to use traditional fibers - rather than repeat - do a Forum search: topic linen yarn This material is becoming exponentially more difficult to source but it scales well and has proven its stability over time. Given the option, I go for one color: natural - 2nd choice half bleached - third white. A good quality Walnut wood dye can be dark enough to cover fully tarred standing rigging and partially tarred running rigging for vessels prior to the late 1800's - depending on dye concentration used. I am thinking that in the late 1800's petro tars that are actually black seem to have become the material used. But steel cable was also being used during this time.
  13. I was stationed at St. E's and lived at exit 2 - Telegraph Hill for 2 years. Traffic was fun in '70-'72 so it must be even for fun now. Interesting when they opened the Wilson bridge at rush hour or waiting for it next to Blue Plains in August with no AC. Bart was just a hole near the Mall, so no mass transit then. What with all the water features, traffic in Hampton Roads is pretty interesting itself.
  14. Another armchair experiment ( denken experimenten ) : The area to be covered by a plywood sub-deck is not accurately represented by a 2D Waterline plan. There is a depth dimension that increases the area to be covered. Thought: using thick paper, the precise area could be had by using it to cover the area. Then, why not thin hard poster board. It is flexible, yet stiff. THEN: Why not try using the poster board as the actual sub-deck? Once in place, give it a coat of thinned PVA and let it dry. This will compensate for the too far apart mold supports and the PVA should stiffen up the poster board. Then a veneer of Hard Maple in planks can be laid. The veneer can be cut using a steel edge and sharp edged tool. No saw would be needed.
  15. Welcome aboard. Where in Virginia are you?