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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. Jaager

    Byrnes Table Saw

    My take on the progression is: Log - board == full size bandsaw ( a full size tablesaw can do some of it, but it is limited in stock thickness and dealing with other than flat surfaces. and is hazardous ) == thickness sander == Byrnes saw. I see the sander as producing stock for the Byrnes saw, not something to process Byrnes saw output. It can certainly do that, but using only the saw is more cost effective - even if the loss to kerf is greater. As others here have said - there are books on safe use of a full size tablesaw that apply to the Byrnes saw. As for shop size bandsawa, I got two take home lessons 1) you will not be happy with an economy model. 2) a bimetal or carbide blade is the only way to go.
  2. Jaager

    Shrimp Trawler

    You could investigate National Fisherman - a digital subscription with access to their back issues. I am thinking that plans will fall into one of two types - simple / very general and actual plans that will be expensive and cover details that are not relevant in a model. The Smithsonian has plans for a 1928 boat in the HAMMS collection.
  3. Jaager

    Shrimp Trawler

    http://welbiltcustomhomes.com/model-shrimp-boat-plans/ Other than this page, I have no other information - price= ? It is a bit younger and has more sheer than the Outer Banks boats seem to have. One or two of the Schiffer books may help get you started into the dark side.
  4. There is one part of this that I suspect may cause a problem. White pet does not evaporate, at least not in the temperature range where we can exist. That means that the mixture will remain semi fluid. On a hot summer day - could it flow out of a vertical surface? What is the result of using PVA instead of white pet? Is it compatible with the existing gemisch?
  5. Jaager

    Bass Wood

    I can and have processed my own stock from logs. For species that are not obtainable in any other way, it is just what has to be done. But, Basswood is a species that is available commercially. For me, the work involved in getting a green log into seasoned and usable stock makes it not worth the effort for a species that I can get as seasoned 8x4 or 4x4 boards from a lumber yard -unless the log is free to begin with and that depends on the species. The suggestions to shop the logs to a commercial yard is a good way to go.
  6. Since Ron has anticipated what I was referring to, I will go ahead and expand Plans and computers A primary factor is to avoid having the computer or print program perform any "helpful" background adjustments and to counter any artifacts introduced by the process. The product should be set up to print any plans precisely as intended. Necessary tools = a printer scanner and a drawing program that can scale, use multiple layers, and process large files. The bench mark program is PhotoShop and for a one off plan, the cloud rental may be cost effective. Expensive alternatives are Corel Draw and Corel Painter. Less expensive is PaintShop Pro. Gimp is free. A document or canvas size should be a base for any program. It should be as large as can be had without the printer program needing to "adjust" it to match the paper size. I use 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels.. For Windows Photo Viewer, be sure to uncheck "fit picture to frame". It is a given that a scanner will distort its product. Fortunately, this is a constant for any machine. What the distortion is must be determined and corrected as the first step in processing a plan in the draw program. The X Y distortion may be uniform or X may be different from Y. I did this usng a transparent metric ruler. Scan it X and Y. Open the scans in the draw program - the two layers can be both visible and saved as a file. I prefer .PNG - it is a lossless format and will save an alpha. A smaller file can be had using .JPG if you are willing to deal with the save fidelity questions. Print the ruler scan and compare to the original. Metric is easy to use to to determine the % difference. In the draw program, adjust a copy of the scan by the % determined - save - print - compare. Repeat until you get identity. Carve the % scale adjustment in stone and adjust any scan taken into the draw program by this factor as a first step - always. Scan your keel - or better for getting it flat - the copy on the plans if there is one. Start with a new canvas in landscape orientation. open the keel scan as a new layer - probably will need more than one scan unless the model is a miniature. Adjust - Lock these layers. On a new layer - type an lower case letter "o" using Ariel Black - print size 4. On a new layer - type an lower case letter "o" using Ariel Black - print size 7. Line up the two layers with holes centered. Combine the two layers. This is a pin locator. Position pin locators along the keel - top and bottom and in places where a hole will not matter. Combine the pin layers with a copy of the keel layer(s). Duplicate and flip vertical. Print out these plans. The paper is a bit flimsy - I coat them with a liberal layer of brushing lacquer - By using pins and the locators, the mirror images can be aligned on either side of the keel. I use Best Test rubber cement - a serious coat on both mating surfaces.
  7. Do you have areas of the keel that will be cut away or not seen on the finished model? Are these areas widely spaced and cover the ends of the keel?
  8. Jaager

    Greetings bored in retirement!

    It is not so much exotic as species that come from trees that do not lend themselves to high volume operations Most "exotic" species are prized because they have characteristics that we try to avoid - prominent and interesting grain. In general softwood species do not play nice for us. The cachet species are Boxwood ( the real Buxus is all but impossible to source - it has been replaced by a S.A. species = Castelo that is treated as though it were the same ) Swiss Pear, Ebony ) The US domestic species that work well are Hard Maple, Black Cherry, Holly, Yellow Poplar, Beech, most any fruit wood - Apple being my favorite - but these are self harvested. If you are US based and can mill your own, you could replace the kit material with Hard Maple and Black Cherry milled to the same thickness. For bending, Holly if the others resist too much.
  9. Jaager

    Greetings bored in retirement!

    Plastic is a polymer that is formed by catalytic reaction and continues after production - at a slower rate. Oxygen, UV light, heat can increase the polymerization reaction -making it brittle and stiff and prone to turn to powder. Wood is a polymer make by specialized cells. They are no longer active while the wood is still a tree. There are trees that are hundreds if not thousands of years old, What does wood in is fungus and insects, not UV or oxygen. Swelling and shrinking in response to changes in humidity can produce splits. If brittle wood is a problem, the cause is probably a result of the wood species - not time. The appropriate wood species to use are usually more expensive and do not come in truck load quantities. Some boutique kit makers use the preferred wood species. Mass market kit assemblers often use wood species that a scratch modeler would never choose. You asking the question, this probably means that you may be happier if you second source a wood supply - after some research here as to which species would work better for you.
  10. To help with your search, the lines and spar and sail plans for Young America are a part of the folio of plans done by William H. Webb. If a library close to where your ancestor lived had the folio or he lived close enough to the Webb Institute, that could explain where he got the plans. The deck details would have to come from another source. The ship is 235 feet deck length or 4.9 feet long @ 1:48 just for the hull before the spars were added. I doubt that any kit manufacturer would have been mad enough to produce a product of this size. Most seem to have some idealized mantel piece length and adjust their model's scale to fit that length. A serious amount of lumber would have been needed to produce the hull. You have both a gem and something of a white elephant. It also represents and serious expenditure of both time and skill on the part of your forebearer.
  11. Sounds like it is museum scale -1/4":1'. You sorta haveta live in a mansion to display a model of a ship that was that large at that scale. Furring strips will not be overkill. If you use plywood instead of 1/8" hardboard or pegboard, it gets heavy . As it is, adding some sort of wheels to the base would make things easier for you. With pegboard, it can double as a rolling tool holder.
  12. Your window of opportunity may be a short one, as they may be going dark again, but The Smithsonian has made a big deal of the gunboat Philadelphia. They have 18 sheets of plans. One that is Chapelle's and 17 that are based on the archeological work done on the actual hull. The whole K&K is expensive = $170 but you would have the equivalent of the best ANCRE monograph to work from.
  13. You should certainly keep the model. A plywood base and a frame made from furring strips. Use steel corner braces and drill for 1/4" flat head bolts. No glue. Cover the frame with 4/6 mil vapor barrier. Have some vent holes. The frame can then be covered with hardboard or peg board. Use screws and when your domestic situation changes and you are able to display the ship, the container can be easily disassembled and the the components repurposed..
  14. I have not seen the experiment done or done it myself but the following may hold up: Luthiers prefer scraping to sandpaper because scraping leaves the pores open, instead of filled with wood flour. There is a difference in resonance. The point being that sanding a bonding surface with a grit higher than 220 fills wood pores with wood flour and reduces the strength of a PVA bond. I have not tested this, but I hope 220 is on the good side of break point.
  15. If waxed paper does not work - I have found soy sauce flat-ish micro dipping bowels in an Asian food market in various sizes that may work. Not expensive. Works if your community has an East Asian population that is large enough to support a market.

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