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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. I will not claim that you can't get cut, but the 15 TPI on an 1/8" are not near as aggressive as the 3 TPI on a resaw blade. Neither intimidates me as much as the 10" table saw.
  2. Just like in school!

    I have it in my memory that years ago, a journal article said that there are probably way more SOS kits (and Victory as well I'm guessing) sitting unfinished and likely unstarted on closet shelves than are ever finished. Your feeling of being overwhelmed is a totally valid response. A first rate man-o-war was a major undertaking for a country. A model of one is a virtuoso undertaking. To make matters worse, the small scale (1:90 ) gets close to miniature scale, which because of the physical limits of modeling materials - wood mostly - skilled tricks are needed for various components. There is just a lot more of everything - a serious amount of repetitive work. Looking at pictures, it is difficult to realize, but a 74 is a really major undertaking and a 1st rate is essentially twice as large. A brig is a good first choice. But still a substantial undertaking. You do seem to have a knack for finding "not now being manufactured" kits. Perhaps Ebay is a solution to the kit in the closet. Or maybe it is like the exercise springs present that my ex-inlaws used to pass as a joke each Xmas - the same kits over and over. Wo bist du? You do not list a location. Economical sourcing of wood is location dependent. choosing species that are optimal for scaling down is tricky.
  3. grsjax, It has been a while since I have been able to find 1/16" blades. I have found no official or definitive statements, but the reason may be: low demand and not cost effective enough for steel co. to supply the ribbon. breaking hazard is high enough to make exposure of the blade mfg'er to law suits too much to risk I have found that a 1/8" blade with a Carter Stabilizer will track tight curves and not bind the blade on backup and twist on sharp direction changes. The negative: The Carter addition cost was more than half that of my generic 9" bandsaw, definitely worth it. The blades have significant set, not wise to cut too close to the line. The cut surface is a bit rough, but I prefer 220 grit on a disk sander and drum sander to finish anyway. Depending on the grain, the underside will have enough fuzz to require edge scrapping for the piece to lay flat on a sanding table. I work at the higher end of the scale range, so what I cut is usually thicker than 1/8". My bandsaw is definitely better than my low end Microlux scroll saw. It was fast cutting out of 1/4" stock (15 inch) timbers of a first rate.
  4. Keith, I think a fretsaw is usually referring to a hand tool. As you do, a scroll saw is sometimes called a fretsaw. Brian, While it is tempting to think of tools as an investment, to justify the expense, that is almost never the case. If you can afford it and you think that you will get significant use from it, the joy of using a well designed and well made tool is difficult to match. Money is not very useful for cutting wood.
  5. Tiny Hem in Sails

    Doing a single fold, the cut edge is on view. I am thinking that painting a thin strip of a clear material that dries stiff over the line to be cut ( on the backside ) will stop fraying and give a clean looking edge. Shellac, varnish, lacquer come to mind. of the three, I think lacquer may be the better choice - except that the solvent is so fierce for close up work, inside.
  6. Holding bulkheads while drying

    Search: fair a frame in the tools and equipment forum and read before you consider this tool.
  7. Damaged Model

    Things that look strange to my eye: No windlass Cathead looks too small No cradle the boom jaws on the main No lower boom on the fore if it was a schooner If it was brig rigged on the fore, width of the lowest yard does not look wide enough for a mainsail more like a spreader for the fore topsail The bowsprit being square outboard - I am surprised how unattractive that looks tome. The jibboom looks under size The lack of ratlines There is a significant drag, I would have mounted it with the waterline horizontal. My money is on this being a decorative model, rather than an historical presentation. Being heretical here: because this is not a visitor from the early 1800's - I would go wild with the repairs, and pick a close vessel from about 1812 and upgrade it to match.
  8. The data requested: ship launched in 1799, so it is in the 1786 - 1861 volume published in 2015 But here it is:
  9. Dremel or Proxxon

    I tried a scroll saw, first the Unimat attachment version and then a MicroLux Mini. I do not like the lifting the work effect due to the up-down cutting action. I got a generic 9" bench top band saw that Micro Mark sold for a while. I adapted a Carter Stabilizer guide to it and with a 1/8" blade, it does an excellent job of scroll cutting. The cutting action helps hold the work on the table, rather than vibrating it. The blade has a set, so I do not cut right up to the line, but I would finish with a disk or drum sander in any case. No way to use it for closed inside cuts, not something I have needed to do, but I have a hand fret saw if I ever do need to do it. I work at 1:60 scale, which is 4 times your scale on a 3D basis, so you might like the thinner blades with a scroll saw, but a sander will have a easier time of it at your scale too.
  10. Dremel or Proxxon

    From my perspective neither. Dremel made a 4" table saw. It no longer seems to be in their inventory. I have had one for a long time. It works. The design and engineering are average at best. If you are going to half *** this endeavor. It might be worth using if you find it cheap enough. I have a 4" Jarmac. It is a bit better, but not much. I have no experience with any Proxxon products. If you are serious about this and plan to be at it for the long haul: the Byrnes table saw is the way to go. For 3" and 4" inch blades, I doubt a better designed or built unit can or will ever be offered for sale. It is a serious machine. They are the product of a home business. Life being what it is, the machine will not always be available. I imagine a time in the future, when the resale value of one of these units would exceed it present cost.
  11. Serving thread

    Wafalck, I am sure that you are correct, and no offense was intended. I was being pedantic and technical because, rather than being at a conversational level, I was thinking that some may try to source materials on line, based on this discussion and some commercial sites tend to be rigid in their descriptions of what they are selling. A lot of times, you have to be a member of their club to know what are the actual sizes of their items. Linen tended to be a nightmare in that regard. Now, you are lucky to find anything to be frustrated with. I think one site I found was only interested in selling shipping container volumes, from India, I think. The site was so obtuse, I couldn't be sure.
  12. Of your local wood species, only Cherry and Maple would interest me. Black Walnut is a beautiful wood, but it is open pore. If the part is totally hidden, Oak, Hickory, Walnut, and Pecan are hard enough and tight enough. I got some rough 2" stock from a local guy who sourced an estate sale. I got a lot of Maple, but I also bought a bit of what I thought was Cherry. It is actually Elm, I think, not sure of the species. Great color, grain contrast is more than I like and it is moderately open pore.
  13. With proper attention to priming and fine sanding, I am pretty sure that you can get a base for your finish coats that can look as though you are painting over glass if you wish to go that far. Before you do that though, given that you are asking the question, you should do the boring, nerdy, and teachers pet thing of practicing on scrap wood first - a lot. Even to the point of getting some additional Basswood planking size material and gluing it planking style on a flat piece of scrap plywood. If your practiced priming and painting result on that is acceptable, then use that on the hull. I would not use exotic or expensive wood species, that are best used natural or dyed, as a base for a painted finish. If you were in the Pacific Northwest and could get the Cedar from a local mill, it might be cost effective. Since you are in Arkansas, the commercial species from your region that have the tight grain and closed pore traits that you need and come as veneer include Black Cherry and Hard Maple. It is a crime to cover up Cherry, so that leaves Maple. While Maple is certainly suitable in a natural state, it is light colored. But it is also on the low end of cost. I looked and you seem to be in a desert as far as walking into a local WoodCraft and pulling a pack of veneer off the shelf. Your kits are POB, planked with Basswood, and with the wide spacing of the molds, you can get a smooth hollow free hull with a single layer? You might could consider covering the Basswood layer with a second layer of the thinnest Hard Maple veneer to be had. The planks can be spilled using a steel straight edge and a #11 blade or knife with a similar shape. With the Maple, you can go much lighter on the priming and have a finish that looks like there is scale wood underneath. You could also experiment with using a black dye or India ink on the Maple and clear finishing that. If you copper the bottom, given that copper sheeting is already thicker than scale, over the primary Basswood planking, you might could do an intermediate layer of bond paper, under the copper, to shim it out to match up to the Maple veneer.
  14. Serving thread

    In the fiber industry, I think yarn has a specific meaning - the first stage in twisting up natural fibers. At least in the case of linen, the progression is: plant fiber -> yarn -> line/thread -> rope -> = twist up to linen fibers are pretty much larger than cotton thread, but in larger scales, make impressive looking scale rope. Cotton fibers are so fine that I think that it pretty much starts as thread as far as availability. There was a time when most of us would have been up close and personal in the process of turning wool fibers/hair into yarn. Silk thread comes in fine diameters. Cotton thread comes fairly fine. Although my focus is largely on hull fabrication I give thought to scale effect on paint choice and rigging. I think the eye sees rigging as being larger than it is, so I am considering ignoring the compulsion to match scale rope diameter to its full size counter point. I am thinking that a hair finer in diameter would look better. In the case of busy work like serving line size, I am thinking that more than a hair finer than scale would actually look more authentic. It has to be neigh on to impossible to get the gaps as tight as full size.
  15. Cool Tool Box

    Thanks for the heads up, I also got 2 and the net with shipping was about $20 each. The quality was much better than would be expected at this price. They really are pencil boxes. I did not get them for this purpose, but they are too shallow for palm chisels.