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Jaager

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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. Wood Allergies

    A wise course: Hire it done instead - the removal and sale of your remaining stock, and as Durxey advises, Have a Servpro type outfit decontaminate your shop. Often, the first allergic reaction is the least extreme one, a warning as it were. No matter how much money you have, good health can not be bought. The potential risk far exceeds any savings - even using a hazmat suit - it is not like it is a function that only you can do.
  2. Wood Allergies

    The WoodDataBase files it under Utile - apparently a pseudo Mahogany. There are many other substitutes - so I advise that you listen to your body and NEVER have anything to do with this species or its cousins. I hope for you, that this has not opened a wider door.
  3. Hull lines for 1853 Young America

    Check SeaWatch books I do not have this volume yet, so I do not know if the plans provided include the standard 3 view lines My Smithsonian catalog lists lines plans in page 181. I also have TIFF and JPEG copies of the Webb originals on a CD from a member here SharingHistory.com as a bonus on J.Scott Russell's The Modern System of Naval Architecture 1865
  4. A side swipe lighting strike burned out the circuit board on my garage door opener and I have never placed it. I manually open the door and unlike most, I do keep my car in the garage - I live on The Bay - Little Creek harbor actually - the salt water could maybe rust my car. I do not mind the exercise. So I don't know if the frequencies are the same - and an ironic factor is that my car has the ability to produce the activation signal. I was hoping someone knew why the Festool will not run continuously. It acts as though the overheat protection control is set at too low a temp. It is not the RF switch. If it because of the cyclone trap ( the Wood Craft salesman said that Festool nixed a custom cyclone trap for their machines) then it really is an unacceptable machine. Pointless to test that since I will never not have the cyclone trap in-line. The clogged filter and quickly full bag with a vac only system = too much hassle.
  5. I used an old Sears 16 gal shop vac for years - It was really loud - had to use sound suppressing head phones with it. When the motor started arching, I retired it to the dump. Following discussions here I bought a Festool Midi. Since I use a cyclone trap - the capacity of the unit is not important and the smaller foot print was an advantage. It is quiet enough, and pulls enough air, but it turns itself off after a short run time. A total waste of $600. Looking around, I found a Rigid 14 gal at Home Depot for $100 that is about as quiet. I no longer need the head phones. It stays on just fine. The only occasional problem = I live in a condo and I think at least one neighbor has a garage door remote that uses the same frequency as my on/off remote for the vac. I have to make sure to unplug it when I am done.
  6. First off: the glue space is determined by the clamping pressure used. But, way back when 17th C. Naval Board style framing was first presented as something we could do, the add-on effect of the glue space was speculated as having a measurable effect, since the timbers meet continuously fore to aft. Using a mechanical micrometer I measured the following: Titebond II 0.001" white PVA 0.0004" liquid hide glue -0.0013" not sure how this came to be The video instructions on the Gerstner & Sons site suggest that too much pressure can produce a "glue starved" bond. If both surfaces are coated prior to the join, with PVA, since it bonds by internal polymerization reaction, I do not see this as a problem. With older glues, such as hide or casein this could be a problem.
  7. Pear or Apple or Orange, Oh My!

    Black Cherry Prunus serotina is indeed excellent for POF frames, beams, planking, etc. It would not be my choice for carving either. Pear Pyrus communis (when steamed is marketed as Swiss Pear) should carve OK - can be purchased commercially excellent for full POF construction Apple Malus spp. ( should also include Crab and Plum ) Similar to Pear. I find it has a more interesting look - probably carves like Pear - excellent for full POF construction - the problem is sourcing it. POF -especially the frames - can require a lot of stock. Sweet Orange Citrus aurantium I have read is similar to Apple difficult to obtain. If this is the material that you are asking about, I don't see any practical difference how they would carve. to widen the focus Osage Orange, Horse Apple, Hedge Apple Maclura pomifera commercially available - harder than the above - the grain and color may be a factor. Bradford Pear Pyrus calleryana must be self harvested should be easily had after a wind storm - hard, should carve well - is tougher than Hard Maple - has a wax-like feel Boxwood Buxus sempervirens the classic wood for carving - almost impossible to obtain. Boxwood castelo Calycophyllum multiflorum seems to have become the substitute for Buxus sempervirens Dogwood Cornus florida should carve similar to true Boxwood- you pretty much have to self harvest it. Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Nootka Cypress Cupressus nootkatensis is relatively easy to carve - the grain direction does not seem to be a problem - can be had commercially Tagua nuts Phytelephas spp max = 2" an ivory substitute can be had on Ebay now.
  8. Taking a step back and looking at this from a larger perspective, I have what is probably an impertinent question about the core of this inquiry. If there is to be a second (finish) layer of planking, why is a filler even being used? Is the next layer so thin that it follows every dip of the subsurface? If the planking is that thin, I would probably replace it with a more robust planking. A filler is meant to fill holes, not do what Bondo does in auto body work? Since it is being covered, looks do not matter. If there is an error with a significant hollow, I would scab a piece of wood veneer there and sand it to spec.
  9. PVA - bonds by undergoing a chemical reaction as it dries - producing long and I guess branched chains. If the mating surfaces have pores or protrusions large enough ( I think 220 grit or more course) and are close enough together, the bond should be adequate. Most fillers seem to have a rough surface. As long as it is not brittle, or weak or does not have a glass-like surface, the PVA should work. If the surface IS glass-like, CA would work better. If the filler itself is weak, no adhesive can mitigate that.
  10. You need heat to loosen the lignin bonds to bend the wood. Lignin is not affected by water. The water is to increase the efficiency of heat transfer into the body of the wood. A short soak, and just enough heat - it is not useful to burn the wood or scorch it even. A heat gun, a soldering iron (the old commercial bending irons were just a soldering iron with French curve metal attachment), or of late, we have colleagues who have done serious bending using a generic curling iron.
  11. Triomphant 1809

    L'Ocean - a Sane' designed 118 gun - launched 1790 as Les Etats de Bourgogne Gerard Delacroix authored a significant monograph of the lead ship of this class Le Commerce de Marseille The colors he provides for late 18th C. The same for the AAMM monograph for a 74 = Le Superbe 1785
  12. Thru experience, I have learned that the cutting does not happen the way one might wish. The blade has to remove the wood that it cuts, This translates into - the thicker the stock, the fewer teeth and deeper gullet for the blade. The thicker the stock - the degree of set on the teeth has an effect on cutting efficiency. No set and a thin blade = smooth cut surface and less wood loss to kerf, but if can - the blade will burn the cut surface due to friction - will want to bind and may flex. With a selection of blades, for any stock thickness, the goal is to find the blade with the most teeth, lowest set, thinnest body that will cut without binding, burning, wobbling and unacceptable kickback ( it hurts getting hit in the belly with a piece of thrown planking.) Start with the most aggressive blade and work to the finest that will work. Unfortunately, the slitting blades are pretty much limited to doing just that, making grating mortise and such like.
  13. metric scales

    First we define the terms and scales. 1:96 or 1/8" = 1' is a semi miniature scale often used in ship modeling although it is 1/2 museum scale (1:48) in any one dimension - the final subject - being a 3D construct is 1/8th the volume of a museum scale model. It is difficult at best to try to be precise with scantlings in miniature scale- how it looks to the eye is more important. Under rather than over works better. HO scale is 1:87 It is about 10% larger than 1:96 You have not stated your actual scale for your model. With your 7" value - I was thinking thickness, but a contemporary liner would be 4" thick on the main gun deck - so width it is. the outside limit would be 10" - 1/16th inch is 5.4" in scale . At 1:96 that is going to look "busy" for plank width. Get the 1/16" - but use that for the thickness. Use a steel straight edge and VERY sharp knife blade the slice off the plank width from that. Given the small scale involved, the most I would recommend as far as caulking rep is to add a slight walnut dye to the glue at the plank edges.
  14. Amazing optivisor light

    After checking this out on Amazon, there is a 30 sec auto-off option- to save battery. Your last adventure with the 360 setting the short time was likely due to your activating the saver function.
  15. What have you received today?

    I came across this product while looking a something else. sorry - on Amazon Pottery Clay Molding Ceramics Sharp Steel Cutter Tools Scraper Crafts Pack of 10 The cost was under $8 US no shipping The steel is thin - about half or less of the similar violin scrappers that run $25-50. They are sharp and scrape welll. Thin enough and cheap enough to cut into custom shapes or use as profile scrapers. I did a short test on laminated Hard Maple. The blade bowed, which is OK with me. a wooden clamp/handle would stop that. If you wish to explore using scrapers, this is a low cost way to do that.

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