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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. Thank you very much for your offer.

    Let me know the total cost and I will gladly donate to MSW and recover your costings.

    my email should you want it is :-  antony.gilbert@sky.com

    Regards Antony Gilbert.

  2. Jaager

    What Wood Is Best For What

    Geoff, You have made if you have access to Apple. It is excellent for about everything. What I learned about harvesting Apple: Get it into 1 or 2 inch thick billets, bark removed, and end grain areas sealed with old paint, varnish, melted paraffin - something to block rapid water loss from the cut ends of the bundle of straws that are what wood resembles - as soon as you can. Apple has sugar in its sap, and if you do not get it dry soon enough, fungus will destroy the wood. I find 2 foot lengths to be as long as I need. Your wooden boat group should have a bandsaw. That is a good way to get a log cutinto billets - that you sticker and dry. Buy your own blades ( 3 tpi hook - 1/2" wide works well enough for this) for the bandsaw, resawing wears out blades fairly quickly and Apple is fairly hard wood. Fix the logs to a carrier plank to keep them from rocking or rolling during the cut - 1/2" ply works - with brackets and screws 2x4 framing braces, 2" drywall screws, and 1/2" pan head screws to fix the braces to the carrier work for me- . Two right angle flat surfaces and the carrier is no longer needed. If you have access to a kiln - use it. I made my own kiln - house insulation foam (a foil surface inside) to make the box, 200-300 watts of incandescent light bulbs for heat and computer ventilation fans to pull out the moisture. It is not a true kiln, but if the wood is at a higher temp than a fungus likes, you win the race. A theory of mine: If I had access to a lot of Apple, for a large butt.- in my imagination, I see me cutting the trunk high up, and using the chainsaw to made a vertical cut down the middle to cut the 4-5 feet still on the roots. I can see that a kick back of a chainsaw at head level could be a bit dangerous, Trying a similar rip cut on a log - I could never think of a safe and practical way to secure the log. The wood loss to a chainsaw's kerf is painful to think about. But there those who use a chainsaw to mill out planks. But the machines have the saw fixed in place and the log doing the moving. Anyway, you will appreciate having one flat surface if you can get one.
  3. Jaager

    What Wood Is Best For What

    Geoff, Looking at the Wood Database for Australian domestic lumber I would look at the following: Tasmanian Myrtle, Myrtle Beech Raspberry Jam Lemon-Scented Gum, Lemon Eucalyptus Kauri, Ancient Kauri If you paint/copper some of the Gum species may be useful course grain is not so bad if hidden.
  4. Jaager

    What Wood Is Best For What

    Your fellow members have the right stock. There is no golden choice. Lots of species will do just fine. The key factor is the look that you are after. Are you doing POF and showing the frames? Will it be clear finished wood with the color pallet determined by species used? The keel vs frames vs beams etc.- not much difference with POF- as far as what to use. Planking - unobtrusive grain - some species bend more readily than others. There is a cachet around using Ebony for black wales, but there are aniline wood dyes that can turn many species black and still show grain effect. The spars are a different matter. Unfortunately - the traditional species are tropical in source and I think pretty much now protected = Lancewood, Degame, Pau Marfim and all but impossible to source. One way is to find a board with straight grain, from a closed pore, tight grain species like Hard Maple, Beech, Birch and split out the pieces - so that the natural grown shape is straight. Over time, the wood will "seek" its equilibrium state. As far as all this goes, should you be considering POF as an engineering demo showing the innards - I am thinking that this is a yacht cost situation - at your present experience level - if you have to ask........ Another factor - with POF - the frame timbers require a lot of stock - depending on the size of the vessel and your choice of scale. 50% going to saw dust is probably on the low end. A 1:48 liner ( 74 or< ) could require 20 bf or more.
  5. My bet: the fumes are the CA itself. The heat of the setup reaction ( caused by contact with water ) also vaporizes unreacted CA. The key with cotton fibers, wool fibers, tissue paper, etc. is that the material has a lot of surface area in contact with air. The heat from the CA reaction, when the vapors contact the organic fibers can reach combustion level, but the "smoke" before visible flame is most likely the CA itself in an aggressive vapor "looking" to react with whatever it can contact. For years, I have seen CSI-type programs using a closed chamber - with a material with finger prints - not suitable for dusting powder use - and CA in a heated petri dish - the CA vapor reacting with the skin residue to reveal the prints. The combustion temperature of organic particles in intimate contact with oxygen, is a lot lower than is appreciated by most. Just ask someone working in a grain silo, or cotton mill in summer about the potential danger. Even gasoline vapor in the proper mixture with oxygen can violently react without an ignition source, at a temp that is pretty close to ambient summer levels. CA can be aggressive and dangerous if not handled carefully - probably causing more sub-detectable harm - than is appreciated. Some day it may follow other once common chemicals - such as carbon tetrachloride and tetraethyllead - into banned status, when industry can find a less dangerous substitute that is cost effective. Until then, damage to user health will continue to be a cost of doing business in order to maintain profits.
  6. Jaager

    What Wood Is Best For What

    You do not supply your location. An answer to your question would depend on where on the planet is your home. Also, I don't think of "best" as being an adequate criterion. A contest is not really what would answer the question. "Excellent for" would be a more reliable goal. I prefer closed pore species. No open pore species will scale in as attractive a way as a closed pore one. That is the one negative mark against an otherwise beautiful wood= Juglans nigra - Black Walnut - if you get an older tree - a very dark rich color but it helps if you live in the eastern region of North America for a good price. Other species of Walnut - not so much of a good choice- most seem to have a lesser color and more visible pores as well as some being brittle. I agree with Grsjax on his choices, although I seem to like Hard Maple as lot more. The grain pattern depends on the plane of your resaw. You can get clear low contrast or tiger or flame from the same board. It is hard and strong. He is fortunate in having access to temperate fruit wood species in Hawaii. They are as good as it gets. Oak either red or white are a hard strong wood - good for hull timbers and bracing or planking as long as they are used where they can't be seen. Their pores are distracting. Two species that do not get much attention, but seem like good choices = Rock Elm ( death on the edge of my cutting blades and very slow on my 3/4 hp band saw - seems a lot harder than Hard Maple and that is hard. There are pores, but small ones.) and Honey Locust. One species I do not like is Platanus occidentalis American Sycamore - color is close to Hard Maple, but another name now is lace wood because of its busy pattern - it is close to Black Cherry in hardness, but is brittle- splitting easily. I was unfortunate in not realizing that the species that Underhill called Sycamore was actually a species of Maple that is about 80% of the way to Hard Maple in its quality. I would have gotten more Hard Maple and Black Cherry from the mill.
  7. As far as the Fir layer, I first paid attention to that in Marquardt's HMS Beagle monograph from 1831. He has a layer of Fir sheathing under the copper plating. Perhaps the RN slow to change as well as their being subsidized it was not as important to economize on weight or materials cost. The Yankee traders and their competition were likely more sensitive to cost in every sense.
  8. Wefalck, You are correct, I did not remove the backside oxide layer. I do have some old furniture with Lino on ply as a surface that is attached with contact cement. It would not that much to separate the layers now. But it was built in the late 1950's. Contact cement is probably OK for a normal lifetime but not for a 100 year or more span. An aspect of the interaction was that the copper oxide seemed to have infused the cement and left the open area the same color as the plate it once held.I have no idea what that hull looks like now. It went with a partnership split that occurred long ago. An additional factor in the coppering = most of the time I have seen that a layer of Fir was between the hull planking and the copper plates. I think I have figured that out. The Teredo larva enters a piece of wood and does not leave it. No boring from one plank to the next. I doubt that without a welded seam, the larva could have been prevented from swimming behind the copper plates. Just a layer of copper would have not been enough protection. OK for easier removal of barnacles and seaweed, but not the worms eating up the hull. A sacrifice layer of wood with a under layer of sulfur or tar or something else waterproof and toxic the the larvae would have solved the problem. The point being that the hull thickness in the coppered region was more than just the hull planking. If a solid hull type building technique is used and the copper plates laid directly on the shaped hull, the Fir layer as well as the actual planking thickness could be investigated and the result added the hull outline when lofting.
  9. This product offers an interesting possibility. I coppered the MS brigantine Eagle using their copper plates - bonding with Weldwood Contact Cement. The plates were flame treated to oxidize out the new penny look. The result looked good, but after several years, the bond started failing. With that adhesive "right out" , since epoxy seems both too thick and messy, CA I hate as well as it likely being subject to failure over time, having a mistrust of whatever the bonding adhesive is on adhesive backed foil products, I wish to use PVA, so that lets out actual copper. My thought experiment on this is to plate the hull with 100% cotton rag bond dissertation paper cut into plates. Bond with PVA and prime and then coat with Modern Masters copper products and try their patina product to add some verdigris effect. Copper foil may be worth a try in place of the primer and genuine copper application steps. Experimental options: 1. copper layer at individual plate stage 2. copper layer after hull is plated 3. is a credible nail pattern possible by pre embossing the wet plates with a punch and die setup. Is it worth the time and tedium for a detail that is all but invisible at scales below Museum (1:48)?
  10. The Byrnes saw has an anchor at he distal end of the fence. With a threaded rod and fittings, you might think about adding to the length and having an anchor at the other end. The face that the stock rides along does not need to, should not, would produce a kickback problem, if it were longer. But a threaded rod extender should allow the fence to be anchored at the back of the table. Aligning the fence with each position is a pain, but the cost for a lower quality tool is your time.
  11. Jaager

    Centering Tools

    If interested in function over cachet - there is an older plastic gauge. It is $6 @ Peachtree
  12. I just placed and received a five book order. The web site did not provide me with an confirmation and I did not receive an email. I saw that my credit card had paid the bill - so I wanted to see if the order had gotten thru. I can't use any website's " contact us " link - it starts an endless loop of new tabs - hundreds of them if I let it. I sent an email to the address from a Google lookup: gmail = seawatchbooks@ no reply so a couple of days later I found an address from an old order seawatchbooks.com = customer_service@ I got a return message saying that the order was shipped and since that was yesterday and it was here today - my email was not involved. The curious part was that the reply was from a gmail account. Try both email addresses - I can't say which worked for me.
  13. Jaager

    Finishing timber (boxwood)

    On a band saw, another way to work unstable stock, like a warped board or a log is to fix it to a carrier plank and sacrifice part of it at the fence along with the stock. Or, if the subject piece is not too wide have the fence far inside as well as the carrier and have the stock overhang and only it be cut. Framing brackets and drywall screws can produce a rigid mounting. system. I don't have a jointer or edger. Perhaps if I had been interested in cabinetry or furniture making.... Although unsaid, you are right about a thickness sander taking a whole lot of passes to work down seriously marred stock. Hours of really boring work. Roger, how do you control the sawdust? I made a open bottom box with a 2.5" hose connector on the top to sit over the drum. I made the box using three layers of Amazon box corrugated cardboard - using a liberal layer of Titebond to bind them and 1/4"x1/4" pine sticks reinforcing the inside corners. The volume of dust was tough on the shop vac until I added Dust Deputy cyclone trap inline.
  14. Jaager

    Finishing timber (boxwood)

    At 3 inches, it would fit a Byrnes thickness sander just fine. I predate that machine at all this, so to get that type machine required building my own from NRG plans since lost. I sized the roller to take 11 x 9 sheets. Now, I would make it 12 x 9 - as the Klingspor cloth backed media that I use comes at 4 inch width, I mount 80 grit and 220 grit and trim off 1 inch from 150 grit. The 80 gets the most work. I would also not enclose the motor compartment now - just the sides - motor heat wants air circulation. I do not have an edger, but I plan to use a fence on my drum sanding table and maybe use a Microplane shaper, if not 80 grit on the drum. Usually I waste the first pass thru the table saw ( a Byrens machine now). If it were my stock, I would not wish the loss a blade thickness machine would produce. I like 24 inch length for my stock, I would find 36 inches a bit cumbersome.
  15. Jaager

    Finishing timber (boxwood)

    What is the scale that you build to? for which parts will you be using this stock? A power planner = a smooth surface but at a significant cost in lost material ... ~1/8" or more per surface. There are sanding planners that can take wide stock, but I am thinking that they are limited to large shops - the machines are expensive and the cutting medium is also expensive. The size of thickness sander that we use limits the width of the stock. It saves on how much stock is lost to get a smooth surface. It just takes a lot of passes, at a cost of your time (and lungs if you do not sequester the dust) . I would use the raw stock as you have it now to reduce further. I think that resawing is one of the more challenging operations. A table saw can get you a smooth enough surface, for minimal finish sander passes, but the kerf loss can add up, and that thing is just waiting to eat your fingers. The blade is less prone to wander - so you do not have to adjust between passes as much -( flipping the board if it is cutting a wedge.) A band saw is safer and the kerf loss is much less, the surface is rougher and takes more passes thru the thickness sander. A low kerf Woodslicer blade yields a smoother surface, but it costs more and the Boxwood is hard and will dull either a bandsaw blade or eventually a circular saw blade more quickly than most wood species. With rough stock, it can be tricky with the raw face against the fence and it is a coin flip for whether to do a thin sacrifice for the first pass or do a standard cut and know that it will take more thickness sander passes and come out below spec and have to be used for another part. For badly cupped boards - cut down along the crown of the cup - and get two flatter boards. I buy rough stock. It is more work, but knowing that a 4 sided finished board sold as 1" is actually 3/4" means to me that 25% has already been lost before I start. Sorry for the following, as it does not help you: I would have cut the log into 2" planks and some 1". I do POF and the stock cost for framing timbers far exceeds that of any other component. I build to a larger scale = 1:60. It is close to 1/4" scale but at 1/2 the volume, a model is less over powering in size. ( But, the first rate I just got in frame is still giving me pause - 4 feet is still a lot of ship.) I band saw the 2" into stock for my thickness sander to get 2" wide planks that are the thickness of the frame timbers. My game is to find the band saw cut thickness that will yield a finished two sides without extra passes. It does not matter that the vertical edges are rough - i just fudge the frame patterns in a bit). I imagine that at 1/4" - the pattern placement might yield more stock lost to waste, but I get fairly efficient yield with 2" at 1:60. My band saw is only 3/4 HP and 2" works it enough.

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