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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. This may not apply to your drill press, but then again it may, and for a mill design even more so: a limitation is throat depth - having more than you need is better than not having enough. Material cost, racking forces, and machine foot print are practical restrictions, but I like to over engineer things.
  2. I remember a long ago suggestion: Cut off the tip of a nail and secure the butt end into the center of the mast step- with just the tapered tip of the nail showing. It holds the heal of the mast but allows adjustment if needed. The wedges and shrouds should suffice for the correct angle.
  3. Since you are in a more tropical region, your choice of local hardwood will probably be different from what we in the temperate zone have available. If you have a local hardwood merchant with milling services you may be able to obtain timber stock at a lower cost than mail order import. Acer sp. (Maple), Pyrus sp. (Pear), Citrus sp. (most trees are too small to interest commercial interests, but you may get lucky. Malus sp. (Apple) is ideal but you may be too far South. Ideally, you want : hard, tight grain, closed pore, straight grain with little or no contrast. The more boring, better it scales down. A dealer should be able to help. Check with local woodworkers for resaw and thickness planning help.
  4. What is your country/state of residence? What full size tools do you have? If you are not building something that flies, Balsa is a very poor choice. In a built up ship/boat model, the weight of the wood is of little or no consequence. To get it to float and not roll over, ballast will be required. Although any species of Oak is an inappropriate choice, a TV show re: Mary Deare (?) showed that a characteristic of Red Oak makes it a specially poor choice: it is very porous. Air can be blown thru it.
  5. I made 3 layer ply using thin cherry and Titebond II. It worked well. With PVA, the strength of the bond increases as clamping force increases. Use two totally covering dead flat surfaces with as much pressure as you can get up to fiber crush and leave it to dry for 48 hrs. Contact cement is not long term stable. I would not trust 3M 77 long term either. The marine adhesives advantage is in its ability to hold while experiencing long term immersion. Unless you are building a pond craft that will store afloat, I don't see the need for these adhesives, Higgins Boats and PT Boats full size sure.
  6. I think that your problem is with the species of wood that you are using. The part that you are fabricating is fairly small. I am guessing that you are not set up to saw mill your own stock. Go visit a local park and collect some dead but sound large twigs or small branches from a Maple, Cherry, Apple, Pear, Yellow Poplar or Sycamore tree. You should be able to split, whittle and sand the wood down to the thickness that you need. You may be able to find a forked piece. Try to get a piece that is thick enough for you to be able to discard the central pith.
  7. The color of the pine tar looks to me like Walnut. In another thread here, EdT recommended: Liberon VDC250G 250g Van Dyck Crystals http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12532-rigging-stain/#comment-382312 The darkness of the dye is a concentration dependent result. The pine tar effect should be obtained by a high concentration of the dye. The result should be a quick drying and wax accepting line. Using actual tar looks like it involves unnecessary problems. Never drying and sticky makes it a dust magnet and a bear to clean up. The graphic above re-enforces the suitability of Walnut as a simulation of the tar used on standing rigging and a very dilute version as a dye for running rigging.
  8. What is on pp. 260 & 261 is a complete reduced scale reproduction of the full size plans. No spar or rigging data on the plans. That is in the text. Tables with the dimensions and written rigging leads are at the back. No criticism was intended over the inclusion of illustrations from older texts. Information was difficult to come by, even the titles of the books from the 17th, 18th and 19th C. to look for was obscure information, there was much less chance of actual access to the content. Later, before the Wharton School philosophy of raw greed for maximum profit at the expense of everything else became the guiding force of business, there was a golden age of the publishing of both text reproductions and original works. Given our relatively small portion of the market, there had to be a bit of dedication to the subject involved in those offerings.
  9. Just setting up at beginning? Is a lot to spend on a machine with limited application in POF. The up/down action wants to move my work. Instead, consider: a 14" bandsaw with an 1/8" blade and a Carter Stablizer - tight cuts can be scrolled It is true that the blades have more set, so there is more work for a drum/spindle sander to do ( tilting table here is mostly useless) to finish to the line. as well as a good quality disc sander. If you get a bandsaw with a 2 HP motor, you have saw mill / resaw resources that can save wood costs You will need a thickness sander though. It is probably more work than it is worth to try to adapt a spindle sander to replicate a thickness sander = a fence problem. A first rate like Victory will require a model scale forest at 1:64 / 1:48
  10. I have the English language edition published by N>V>Uitgeversmaatschappij "De Esch" - Hengelo-Holland Copyright 1970 Foreword by Howard I. Chapelle purchased in 1972 It has 2 sheets of plans that are reproduced on pp. 260 & 261 There is no scale on the plans, but 1:50 looks appropriate. There is no pocket in the back cover, the plans are loose but joined by a paper band around the middle. The book has some similarities to Wolfram zu Mondfeld Historische Schiffsmodelle in that it is a hermit crab-like collection of drawings from then out of print primary works in public domain, It is mostly late 18th to mid 19th c. It is also similar to an Anatomy of the Ship edition as regards details for Irene. It is more "what to do" than "how to do it". The NMM should have plans for the class.
  11. For Pear: I found some short split pieces at a local supplier of wood to those who smoke meat. Another possible source - local tree removal companies. Any species of Pear works well, what is sold as Swiss Pear is actually Pyrus communis that has been steamed to produce a uniform pink color. It is European Common Pear and is often used as root stock for fruit bearing varieties. What you will likely find here is Bradford or a similar ornamental or a fruit bearing variety.
  12. You have the plans in the book pp. 260 & 261 The scale is considerably smaller, but it is small enough to easily scan into your computer using a home 3 in 1 printer/scanner. The full size would need a commercial machine to do in one go. The plans have no scale on them. It would take measuring the max breadth and matching that to the inside the plank dimensions to figure it out. Being originally a Dutch publication, it may be metric. The length seems too short to be 1/4" : 1' since it is about the same as Underhill's 10 gun brig at that scale.
  13. I once was interested in Snap Dragon. Mostly because at that time the anual vacation was taken near Beaufort NC, the area that Otway Burns and Snap Dragon sailed from. The data: 70 feet 'overall' crew 100 147 ton schooner (Baltimore Clipper) original name Levere cost $8,000 narrow with low bulwarks Two different listings for armement: US Naval Inst. Proceedings V. 42 No. 163 pp. 873-911 1916 4-5 6 lb on open gun deck 1 long 9 lb pivoted midship 2nd voyage 1 long 12 lb The Commonwealth of Onslow A History Jos Parsons Brown Owen G Dunn Co New Burn NC 1971 pp 43-46 5 12 lb 50 muskets 4 blunderbuss Rig - quotes from USNIP article " Burns caused yards to be fitted to her formast (and possibly Main) which could be sent on deck at short notice when the schooner was beating against the wind or could quickly be replaced when running before a gale by this means the Snap Gragon combined the advantages of a fore-and -aft schooner and the square rig of a brig." "the wind held so fresh as to carry away the Snap Dragon jibbom and two topmast stays." "furl topgallant sails, single reef topsails and take a bonnet out of the fore sail." "flying jib" "her fore topsail was loosed" "main topmast" Scantlings Lacking contempoary data for the actual vessel, I would use Steel Brigantine 10 guns 201 tons is as close as listed R&S 2' 0" 27 floor timbers sided 10" length midships 18' 8" moulded at keelson 10" " at head 8" 1st futtock sided mid 9.5" moulded head 7" scarph on 2nd futtock 5' ( this means that the 1st futtock is 9' 4" + 5' or 14' 4" long ) 2nd futtock sided mid 9" moulded at head 6" scarph on 3rd futtock 5' ( 10' long) Top timber sided at heel 9" sided at top 7" I would probably use the scantlings - or a touch lighter but for R&S use paired frames - but a wider space. Not 20" space - more like 12-14". Rather than butting the heels of the 1st futtock at the keel, I like the French practice of using a half floor or cross piece with the 1st futtock so instead of a 14' 4" timber, the half frame would take up 4.5' of it.
  14. If you are dealing with toxic gases or vapors - rather than a mask - it would be better to not set up a situation where it would be necessary . A physical barrier will not stop a gas. Protection requires a reaction binding or bonding like with activated charcoal and that is a saturable system. Work outside with a breeze or fan blowing - or if inside set up a vent hood with external (outside) exhaust. You do not want these sorts of compounds in your living space no matter the concentration. Many are heavier than air and can pool at floor level.
  15. I am not sure when it became the practice but rock salt was used as a frame preservative. There were salt stops above the air gaps in the ceiling in the spaces. Pitch or tar would have an adverse effect in frames. By not peretrating deeply into the wood, the net effect would be to seal water inside the timber and support fungus growth. I think the RN used stock that had been held in brine pools when they could. The salt would have time to penetrate and preserve. The wood was said to be really hard and difficult to adz or drive a spike into. When we get into the weeds in discussing actual framing practice as opposed yo how contemporary model were presented, air gaps between paired frames and at butt joints - how much and how wide are questioned. The trick was to use well seasoned timber stock. With a rule of thumb of one year per inch if thickness, is it any wonder that a first rate with 11" x 11" up to 15" x 15" inch timber bulks had rot problems because unseasoned stock was used? Takes planning and a crystal ball to have timber seasoning 15 years before you need it. Raw wood exposed to sun and rain does not fair all that well. My guess is that a hulk held in frame on the ways probably had a shed like structure protecting it.