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Jaager

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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. Thickness sander

    The Byrnes will work 6 inch stock. The medium mounts as sheets. The clamps come shown as two 3 inch pieces. This allows one to be replaced - leaving the other alone - if two 3 inch sheets are used. Standard sandpaper sheets look like they would fit - but their duration of use may not be practical. There are cloth backed media - as continuous rolls - cut to fit for length and they come as 3", 4", 6" widths - variety of grits - Norton and Klingspor are two. I get Klingspor from my local WoodCraft, but i do not see this on the chain website It holds up well and is essentially the same as what makes up the sleeves. In my view, the Micromark is more of a toy when compared to the Byrnes. 220 grit may be as fine as should be finished for working stock - wood pore blockage and reduced PVA bonding may be a side effect of a finer finish.
  2. Thickness sander

    For me: the first fix is to remove the set scars from the bandsaw blade on both surfaces. Mine is an under powered 3 wheel bandsaw and my skill in resawing could be better. Two inch hardwood - especiaaly Hard Maple - strains the 3/4 HP motor and dulls the blade more quickly than I like. My sander is home made using plans from NRG from years ago - the drum is 11 inches and the circumference is 8.5 inches - for standard sanding sheets - now I would make it 12 inches - so that I could fit 3 grits of 4 inch cloth backed sanding medium Klingspor 80/150/220 For the thickness sander = The goal is to start with a stock thickness that allows a clean 220 finish on both sides - without having to waste much wood to get the target thickness. I flip and rotate end to end. This is using 80 grit. When I have a clean surface, i sand one side down to 220 and use it as the table contact. The other side gets 80 grit passes - with end to end rotation until close to target then finish to final with 220.
  3. Thickness sander

    Two of the variables width of the piece grit of the sanding medium
  4. It is not exactly a narrative. I find it useful as a reference. It is more descriptive of what was rather than a coherent story. Viewing the lines of the vessels - follow up on the ones that strike your fancy. Copies at 1/4" scale are available from the Smithsonian - usually for $10 a sheet.
  5. Micrometer

    The humor and chagrin at the result from what is equivalent of checking the wrong box on an order form not withstanding, ( I hope you can return it.) even if you had gotten the 6 or 12 inch version that you need - I strongly suggest that you would find one with a digital readout much friendlier to use. The inch/fraction is OK, but with the inch.digital or the metric any scale is equally easy to use. You are not forced to use a scale that is some version of a 1/64" readable.
  6. Poplar for modeling

    You could use it for that, if it is Yellow Poplar that is the subject here. It is closed pore and has a tight grain. It is not brittle or fuzzy. It is an excellent choice for solid and lift style hulls. The mark against it for POF framing is that it is light weight and for smaller vessels below 1:48 in scale, I would be worried about the strength of the frame. You offer no location information. If you are eastern US, check the cost for Hard Maple. It should be about $5 /bf. It approaches what passes for Boxwood these days in hardness and is much stronger than Yellow Poplar. It will produce much more wear on saw blades however, but the feel of working it in these small scales, is I find, more satisfying.
  7. black ash for ship modeling

    For POB, you might use it for the first layer of planking with a two layer method. or for the fill/backing material between molds ("bulkheads") if you opt for one layer of planking on a solid support method.
  8. black ash for ship modeling

    It is a relatively soft hardwood ; less than Black Cherry, but about 50% harder than Yellow Poplar. It should work fairly easily. The negatives are a course grain and open pores. It does not scale well. If you use it for hidden components, it should do OK. If it is of a surface that is painted, an additional step to fill the pores (Plaster 0f Paris) would probably be needed. Clear finished - the grain could be a distraction. For frames on a fully planked hull, it should work and if you get a deal, save you money - framing is probably the most timber intensive part and has the most waste. Being softer, it will be easier to remove too much, too fast, so a light touch when shaping.
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