Jaager

Members
  • Content count

    549
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norfolk VA

Recent Profile Visitors

278 profile views
  1. Should you wish to use traditional fibers - rather than repeat - do a Forum search: topic linen yarn This material is becoming exponentially more difficult to source but it scales well and has proven its stability over time. Given the option, I go for one color: natural - 2nd choice half bleached - third white. A good quality Walnut wood dye can be dark enough to cover fully tarred standing rigging and partially tarred running rigging for vessels prior to the late 1800's - depending on dye concentration used. I am thinking that in the late 1800's petro tars that are actually black seem to have become the material used. But steel cable was also being used during this time.
  2. I was stationed at St. E's and lived at exit 2 - Telegraph Hill for 2 years. Traffic was fun in '70-'72 so it must be even for fun now. Interesting when they opened the Wilson bridge at rush hour or waiting for it next to Blue Plains in August with no AC. Bart was just a hole near the Mall, so no mass transit then. What with all the water features, traffic in Hampton Roads is pretty interesting itself.
  3. Another armchair experiment ( denken experimenten ) : The area to be covered by a plywood sub-deck is not accurately represented by a 2D Waterline plan. There is a depth dimension that increases the area to be covered. Thought: using thick paper, the precise area could be had by using it to cover the area. Then, why not thin hard poster board. It is flexible, yet stiff. THEN: Why not try using the poster board as the actual sub-deck? Once in place, give it a coat of thinned PVA and let it dry. This will compensate for the too far apart mold supports and the PVA should stiffen up the poster board. Then a veneer of Hard Maple in planks can be laid. The veneer can be cut using a steel edge and sharp edged tool. No saw would be needed.
  4. Welcome aboard. Where in Virginia are you?
  5. If you use hitch chucks with the pins - more force on the hold down is possible and that makes for a stronger bond. A hitch chuck is a small piece of scrap wood that you drill a hole thru and have between the head of the pin and the wood that you are clamping. The pin can be tapped and bend getting more force. The chock can be split off if necessary to grip the pin to remove it. I mostly use a a curved Kelly clamp ( hemostat ) to remove the pins. Resting on a piece of planking, the curved clamp makes a good prise
  6. This comes from instructions for wood dyes: Dissolved in alcohol - the dye does not penetrate as deeply- but it has no effect on the wood surface. Dissolved in water - the dye penetrates deeply - but raises the grain. Pre-treatment with 10% PVA in water, dry then sand the surface - the next water exposure with the dye will not further raise the grain. Based on this, wet your surface with 10% PVA in water and let it dry. If it raises the grain too much, try a light sanding with 320 or 400 grit.
  7. I will repeat: get as close to 2 HP as you can, for resawing. It really works the system - For high efficiency and fewer thickness sander passes, a Wood Slicer blade from Highland - getting a unit that uses one of their ready made sizes will save you about $10 a blade, and about 2-3 weeks waiting over custom length. The 10" would be OK for scroll cutting - poor choice for resawing. A generic 9" will scroll just as well for less. Just make sure any unit you consider takes a Carter Stabilizer if you want to cut tight curves. It costs near about want a 9" bandsaw costs, but it is worth it.
  8. Vossie, For ready tool storage I use brick size blocks of 2 inches of Styrofoam insulation. PVA glue it to a bit larger wood base. Here I had to glue two 1 inch pieces - Home Depot sells 2 x 2 project sheets. It does not take well to hot glue and I think contact cement melts it too.
  9. Deck plank for USN between 1815-1860 is 40' Pine. By the 1690's ship building was probably well on its way into bureaucracy - Spain included. Unlike the 1500's when it was more father to son - we keep the rules secret - sort of thing. I would use 40 as the max - use 30" as average - and use 3 plank shift - not as busy looking and "more professional" in strength potential - full size. You might consider an e-mail about this to Thomas J. Oertling at Texas A&M - he wrote a chapter in The Philosophy of Shipbuilding on 15-16 C. Iberian wrecks. The Nautical Archaeology folks may have data.
  10. A factor to be mindful of: mapping distortion. The profile is a compressed horizontal projection of the actual curved surface. By looking at the Waterline plans the difference in actual distance between points is seen. At the ends, the real difference is below the LWL, but there is some in the upper works. Armchair experiment: More precision could be had by cutting a scanned copy of the profile into segments at each mold and using a drawing program, stretch segment to be the length of that section in the "Z" dimension that the WL plan shows. With the "freehand distortion tool" a sort of Mercator projection can be made.
  11. I sent a copy, not sure it was sent correctly though. If not I just was on NMM site. The lines plan for the 10 gun brig class is under Brisk - and it has the Gripe that Marquardt drew as well as the aft keel cant. I would edit I post above and remove my email - in case Web spiders are about and sign you up for even more spam.
  12. There is a graphic of what I have been describing. PM me with your e-mail is you wish a full size in scale ( on my system it prints out as identical to plans.) pattern to print out.
  13. It turns out that the plans that I bought when I was lofting HMS Beagle and having a difficult time copying the profile lines from Marquardt was the Mamoli kit plans. They were relatively expensive and not helpful. The plans have no lines drawings. A good set of easily available basic Cherokee lines @ 1:48 would be nice to have. Considering the number of vessels build using that basic design, this void is surprising. OK - I measure touch on the 1:64 Mamoli = 69'. Marquardt (scale situational ) = 72.6' Based on the framing diagram it should have been 75' if the frame width differences were correctly measured. So the kit is 3.5 feet short. I also see that the gripe is wrong. The few feet of the bottom of the keel cant up a few degrees in Marquardt and do not in the kit.
  14. The center spine ( the keel + deadwood + keelson + midline filler up to deck beam level ) is a piece of plywood? Get a small sheet of aircraft Birch plywood from a local crafts store that is the same thickness. Trace a copy of the center of it that is equal to 6' in scale = 72" /64 = 1 1/8 " . Include the notch for the center mold/bulkhead. Using the same plywood make a duplicate of the center mold to be mounted in this 1" piece. Cut the center spine in half - straight and perpendicular - close to and aft of the center mold slot - but leave enough of the original to hold reinforcing wood covering the two joins. End grain to end grain glue joint is very weak in normal wood- really weak with plywood. The two layers will be the actual bond. This will make the hull 72 inches longer in scale. If you cut openings at the spine in all of the molds a strip of wood can be glued on either side of the length of the spine. This will resist or repair any warping and keep it dead straight.
  15. In the US, pharmacies sell needles to those who use them for Rx drug administration. They tend to be wary about inadvertently supplying IV drug abusers, though I seriously doubt anyone would become an IV drug user just because they could get needles. The most likely result is forcing the use of unsafe and contaminated equipment and additional interaction with unsafe people. Smallparts.com sells a variety of sizes of steel micro tubing. If the dowels are to be used as actual fasteners - the belt AND suspenders philosophy of joinery: true trunnels, then bamboo skewers / a draw plate slow, tedious, and the variety of bamboo has an effect. If it is just for show, why not just fill the holes with wood flour mixed with wood glue? Pick the species of wood to get the shade desired. White glue will not darken the flour, but Yellow glue and esp. Titebond III will. This makes it easier to keep the plugs in scale. Actually, what with scale effect, it would probably be better to make the holes a bit smaller than actual scale diameter, I think the brain sees it larger than it is.