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About cdrusn89

  • Birthday 10/21/1947

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  • Location
    Rockledge, FL
  • Interests
    Current Build: US Brig Niagara; https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/profile/462-cdrusn89/

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  1. Test fit of first TG shroud to TG Mast. In the first image the served shroud is on the left. Since these are .018" line thr serving makes a significant difference in the overall diameter. I used 80 WT quilters thread as the serving thread. I used 100% polyester to seize the eye and "thimble" (actually a 1/16" wooden deadeye) in the shroud. Now all I need is to serve another TG shroud (there are only two so I get off easy on this one). Still having problems with depth of field. I'll see if I can get a clearer picture of the shroud eye and thimble.
  2. I added the four additional 1/8" single blocks for the bunt and leech lines to the fore and main top masts. It is getting pretty crowed up here. Should be fun at rigging time. I am reviewing the drawings again to see what additional items are required on the upper masts. Experimenting with techniques for incorporating the thimbles and blocks that are integrated with the TG and TS shrouds. This will be a first for me. All my previous builds had blocks attached to shrouds not integrated into the shroud as is done here.
  3. Finished adding the ten 1/8" double blocks to the underside of the Fore Mast top. Eight for bunt, clew and leech lines and two for the course yard lift. Now on to the Topmast where there are eight 1/8" singles - four on each mast.
  4. When I assembled the "fighting tops" and started adding the blocks under the top for the clew, leach and bunt lines my intention was to use some extra blocks that I made up when rigging the cannons. Those blocks used wire strops and had hooks (made from twisting the wire on either side of then block together at the top and then forming a hook from the twisted wire. After thinking about it again, I decided to use rope strop and rig the blocks through the eye bolts instead of hooks. I can imagine a block coming unhooked or the hook breaking (don't ask me how I know about these things) at some point near the end of rigging where getting in there would not be very easy. The lower shrouds, topmast shrouds, carpathians, and some other stuff will all be in the way. So here are the blocks under one side of the platform, doubles on the outside per the plans. Still working on getting the depth of field worked out on the macro lens. At about two feet from the subject I can't get both the front and back of the platform in focus at the same time.
  5. The final yardarm (Main Royal) complete, or as complete as I am going to make it before it is installed on the mast. And this is the first picture not taken with my iPhone X. Form now on I will try and capture photos using my Canon 60D with 100mm Macro Lens. Hopefully my model making skills will be forced increase since the pictures are more likely to show the flaws with the increased resolution and sharpness (I can't tell much difference on the computer screen but maybe those of you with higher resolution displays can see some difference. According to the site this picture is about twice the size (4 Meg) of the typical iPhone photo (2 Meg). I am going to concentrate for the next few days on serving the line needed for the shrouds, starting with the topmast shrouds since I in tend to assemble the masts from the top down, at least until that proves unworkable for some reason.
  6. Completed one (Fore since the braces lead aft) Royal Yard. Included the parrel, halyard, lifts and the clew blocks. One more yard to go. I also started to serve the shrouds. I decided to completely serve the forward most shrouds at all three levels on both masts. These are the ones most likely to be chafed by the yards. For the others I will serve the portions that wrap around the mast and over the bolsters. Am considering what to do about serving the stays. The Main and Fore Stays and Preventers were, I think, served their entire lengths so I am preparing to do that. I would think the stays that actually carry sails (like the Flying Jib Stay) would have at least the portion of the stay that carries the sail served as the hanks would be a constant source of chafe with each variation in the wind speed or direction. Also some of the stays (Fore Top Gallant for instance) have a sheet line that crosses of the stay which would also tend to chafe the stay as the sheet lines move with the sail. I have the Syren Servo-Matic and can serve a 15" length of .035 line (shroud size) in about 15 minutes. I hang the lines up with a 4oz fishing sinker attached and apply another coat of 50/50 glue-water and let it hang while it dries. You have to coil the line on the Servo-Matic (it does about 7" of line at a time) and this leaves some bends in the served line that seems to come out if you let it hang awhile. One more yardarm to go!!
  7. I got the second TG Yard outfitted today so I have the two Royal yards yet to go. Based on a preliminary look at the plans they should be the easiest of all. Here are both yards with the lift lines and halyards already attached. I spent part of yesterday putting the bunt and leach line thimbles on those yards. I have decided to put the blocks for these lines on the mast/shrouds but tie off the lines at these thimbles (so I have 6 more thimbles on each course yard, and two on each TG yard which I thought I just finished). On the Top Sail yards I used .010 wire and a 1/16 Bluejacket bull eye for the thimble. That was a challenge getting the wire threaded around the bulls eye. If I have to do 18 more I think I will just form an eye in the end of the wire. It seemed like it was way more effort than is warranted. So on to the Royal Yards
  8. Spent most of the day (except for that afternoon nap) working on the Fore Top Gallant Yard. I think I got all the blocks and line required installed and will move to the Main TG Yard tomorrow. Two pictures below show the yard in two stages of completion. With and without the lift and halyard. I used .010 annealed steel wire for the stirups on this yard instead of the Syren line as I did on the lower yards. Seems to look okay and I will consider this for future builds. Getting an eye in the Syren line that is small and not too noticeable is something I have not mastered. Especially difficult when you get to the smaller (.012 and .008) sizes.
  9. I took a few days off to accompany some friends from the frozen North (Minnesota) on a short cruise to the Bahamas and upon return found that whatever the issue with the pictures has apparently been resolved. I can get the pictures into the preview frame successfully at any rate. I did however get the Canon 100mm macro lens for my digital SLR but it is going to take some practice (and finally reading the camera manual) before I can get the picture I intend. So no work has gotten done for a week but the shipyard has reopened and I think I remember what I was doing - yardarms I think.
  10. I have been having this problem since Sunday (1/27). I had three photos to upload and it took two but not the third. I have been unable to post any new photos but it seems to accept (i.e. they show up in the upload window without the failure notice) photos that have previously been posted. I have tried changing the settings on my camera (iPhone X) and using other cameras without noticeable success.
  11. I tried to upload some old photos from my Canon EOS 60D (about 4-5 Megs each) and have run in to the same problem. Not sure what I can do at this point but assume it is a site problem that hopefully gets fixed sometime soon.
  12. I also tried using both Safari and Firefox and got the same results with both so it is not a browser issue. Something is different with the photo images but I have no idea what that might be.
  13. I turned the "Auto HDR" button (under Settings/Camera) off and the "Keep Normal Photo" on. In settings/camera/formats I changed from "High Efficiency" to "Most Compatible". Turned HDR off with the controls at the top of the camera screen. I took a photo and it loaded successfully - I made the above notations, took another photo without changing anything and this one failed to load. On my way to Amazon to get a macro lens - this is maddening.
  14. Brian, I have been using the same cell phone with (as best I know) the same settings since I started this build last June. I am at a complete loss (and I fancy myself somewhat of a computer geek) to explain why the pictures uploaded one day and then not the next.
  15. SW update to iPhone did not resolve the problem. At a loss for what to try next.

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