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cdrusn89

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About cdrusn89

  • Birthday 10/21/1947

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rockledge, FL
  • Interests
    Current Build: US Brig Niagara; https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/profile/462-cdrusn89/

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  1. Working on the deadeyes since I need to get the hull completed which means the channels, deadeyes and associated hardware. After reviewing other build logs and the discussion of the sizes of deadeyes I decided to use the Syren 5mm, 4mm and 3mm deadeyes for the lower shrouds, topmast shrouds and the top mast back stays respectively. Picture below shows the Syren and Model Expo deadeyes for comparison. I have all the 5mm deadeyes, assembled and ready for the block shaper to take some of the sharp corners off. As luck would have it the holder I used for the double 3mm blocks also works for the 5mm deadeyes (picture below). While not doing that I finished and installed the cat heads and bored the holes for the anchor lines. I will use Bluejackets hawse lips on the outside of hull.
  2. The yellow cedar grating kits from Syren were waiting when I got home from the "Great North Pheasant Hunt" (Viking Valley, MN) so I made up a few and started to convert from boxwood to yellow cedar. Along the way I changed the main hatch grating from flat to curved so had to redo the coaming as well. Finished up this afternoon. Here is how the two main hatches look on the yellow cedar deck. Now that I see together I wonder if it was worth the effort/cost... (Boxwood is on the bottom).
  3. Darrel - thanks. I got some yellow cedar grating kits from Syren so am working to get them fabed in yellow cedar as well.
  4. Getting the hang of the new scroll saw is going to take a bit of practice. I did get the chock rails made (it took about five tries to get one close enough to not spend the rest of the day sanding) and installed. I then got the yellow cedar Catheads fabricated and cut out the main and chock rails to fit them in place. Once that was completed and after a final 320 sanding and paint thinner tack rag I put the first coat of Wipe-on-Poly on the main and chock rails.
  5. Jim, I have a cousin who was CO of the USS Norfolk (SSN 714) and one of the crews of the Henry M Jackson (SSBN 730) but that would have been 30+ years ago). I know the Norfolk was decommissioned a few years back (I was living in the Norfolk area at the time). Every ship I served on has long been used for razor blades or target practice.
  6. Thanks Jim - one thing I have is plenty of cedar sawdust. Lets see TMC, would that be Chief Torpedoman? I spent my time on targets so don't think I ever ran across an E-7 Torpedoman.
  7. Scroll saw arrived this afternoon just in time to cut the two forward sections of the mail rail from the 3/64" yellow cedar sheet. Just as with the other five pieces, I traced around the piece from the kit and then cut and sanded to the line. Made the joints after getting the correct shape. Everything looked great with all the pieces clamped on but when it came time to glue, one of the joints ended up with a 1/16" gap on the exterior and interior "corners. Since this will be finished with poly and not painted the Bondo is NOT a candidate for filling this one. I have some Elmer's wood filler somewhere - hopefully it is fine enough to fill a 3/64 X 1/16 X 1/16 opening. So, mail rail is on, yellow cedar chock rail and Cat Heads next.
  8. I took the eyebolts I made up yesterday while watching football and completed the eyebolt installation on the interior of the hull. There are another twenty or so that are on the outside of the hull, cat head etc. I will do these after I get the main rail installed. Scroll saw arrives tomorrow (UPS promises) but I decided to start the main rail since several of the pieces are almost straight. Nothing a disk sander and some sanding sticks can't handle. The stern transom piece was somewhat of a struggle but I got it and the two adjoining pieces on the sides aft cut, sanded and fitted to the hull. Having the gun ports makes holding the rail on really easy. No excuses for it not being exactly where you want it. So here is the hull with three pieces of the Alaskan yellow cedar main rail in place for a trial fit. Here is a close-up look at one of the 1/8" (3mm) single blocks. I used 32 ga (.012") annealed steel wire to do the stropping. I saw the "practicum" on the site on stropping the blocks using .008" black line and the 3mm hooks from Syren but thought this would be easier and maybe faster. I am only about a third the way through these (and half way through the doubles using the same wire) so I am not sure how it will all come out in the end. For the singles, I just caught the .012" light brown Syren line between the wire and the block at the bottom and then seized it when I was finished with the stropping. I cut 7" of line for each block so have about 6" left after the seizing - hope that is enough. My plan is to just take the line to the deck and cover the end with a coil of rope. Another thing to look forward to - making 200 rope coils.
  9. During one day of watching football (although neither of the early games on in our market were worth watching - Dolphins/Pat and Bucs/Bears) I was able to create about 100 eyebolts and thirty or so single 1/8" blocks with becket and line ready for use in the gun tackle. Only about seventy more to go - maybe I can get a few more done during the Monday night game. As I figure things I need five sets of 1/8" double and 1/8" single with becket for each cannonade (two gun tackle, two train tackle and one in-haul tackle) so that is 5 X 18 = 90 each of doubles and singles, plus three sets each for the two long guns so that is six more of each total 96 of each. I plan on making 110 as I am sure to mess up a few along the way. Next step is to install the train tackle eyebolts (and the rest of the ones shown on the plans) on the hull.
  10. Starboard side pin rails completed. Waiting for scroll saw delivery on Tuesday to start main rails. Have some touch-up to on the hull then mask and spray two coats of clear on hull below the bulwarks. Added the mooring line fair leads to the stern gun ports and found yellow dry transfer letters the correct size in Roman font to put the name on the stern (will be delivered late next week while I am in Minnesota pheasant hunting). Setting up to strop gun tackle blocks during the Pats/Dolphins game this pm.
  11. Port side pin rails installed and epoxy has set - I put a pin in each end and also some epoxy along the seam with the bulwark. Would be really bad to have one of these come loose while installing the running rigging. Stbd side underway.
  12. Got the rudder hung. Not much drama, just slipped the rudder post in the hole and slide it in place, drilled the holes for the wire, put a dab of CA on the end of each wire and "slide it home". Touch up with flat black paint and there you are. Also completed the "bell tower". Still working the pin rails. Made the mistake of using phosphor bronze wire for the support "iron". After I get the size correct for the rail location have to stop and paint them black, sometimes twice as the paint doesn't stick well to these. It is much easier to cut than music wire, which isn't really black either but I could probably have used it without paint. Anyway, hope to get all ten rails installed in the next day or so. Then on to stropping more blocks for the guns. Have about half of the doubles done. Only 150 more blocks to go (50 doubles and 100 singles with beckets). Speaking of gun tackle, the plans call for .016" line for the gun tackle but the Syren line comes in .012 or .018. What have others used. My choice would be to go smaller but not if it doesn't "look right". Any thoughts?
  13. Got the rudder ready for mounting and making progress on the "bell tower". Also did the galley smoke stack. Getting the top part to actually show light through was a challenge on the first one. I soldered two successive sizes of brass tube together and then used the Dremel saw to notch the top piece of tubing to form the supports for the top. Slots are so narrow that I had to make four instead of the three in the plans. Made the top from a 3/16" disk I punched out a a 1/64" thick brass sheet. I used a center punch to try and form the "Coolie hat" shape. Came out more curvy than I had hoped. I used epoxy to attach the top to the rest and painted it all flat black. Not bad for a first effort but I have a few ideas of how to get closer to the plans. Awaiting a new punch set (3/16" is the biggest I can do with what I have) so I can have a little bit more material to work with for the top. I used the Syren Pintles and Gudgeons for the rudder hangers. I used them on my last build and they are the correct scale for this one too. I had to slightly enlarge the notches on the rudder to make sure the two pieces would not stick too far beyond the rudder face but other than everything has worked out (so far). I opted to follow the advise on the Syren web site and used annealed wire cut flush and then touched up with flat black paint to simulate the bolt heads. I though about using the plastic hex heads but I had so much problems with the eight on the capstan (kept losing them when cutting them off the spline or having them snap out of the tweezers) that the thought of doing 20 for the rudder was more than I could bear - plus I would have been dangerously close to running out of the hex bolts and the train people I got them from were not very fast in shipping.
  14. Shipyard has reopened a day early after a 1223 mile non-stop journey home from Ontario (Canada not California) due to an allergic reaction to a cat that just had to be petted. She had one eye so swollen she could not see out of it. So it was a solo drive to boot. Anyway, as for the ship model, I completed the capstan and assembled and painted the rudder Pintles and Gudgeons which are now drying. I addition I cut and painted the 10 belaying pin racks. Next up is rudder installation and then the pin racks. I got the brass bell from Billings Boats so I will work the ship's bell structure when I get the pin rails and rudder done. Here is the capstan. I used a piece of file folders to simulate the metal band and some plastic hex bolts from a model train supplier on the top. Probably a bit out of scale and it is my understanding that hex heads bolts came after the Niagara but I think it looks letter than lumps of glue.
  15. Thanks Darrell - it took two tries on the aft fife rail to one that would hold together with only three sides. I have to take a week+ off - HQ wants a trip to her home in Michigan for her brothers b-day (the big 70). Work in shipyard is suspended until the 28th.

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